Step 4: Construct the internals

Lots of flexibility here. I wanted a three way design, with a woofer, mid, and tweeter. You could obviously simplify things and make a one way earpiece, and at $25-$50 per driver, that would save you quite a bit of money. However, if you're going to the trouble of making yourself custom IEMs you might as well go the distance. The drivers I used were based on a few things: drivers known to be used in commercial products, frequency response curves of the various KA drivers, and availability. I went with CI (~$27) as my woofer (this is a common application), DTEC (~$48) as my mid, and WBFK (~$48) as my tweeter. TWFK (~$50) is commonly used as both a mid and a tweeter, and has the added benefit of being a dual driver, but it was unavailable at the time. I chose DTEC because of its frequency response and because it's also a dual driver. WBFK is basically the single driver version of TWFK, and has a nearly identical frequency response. The capacitor acts as high pass filter (blocking low frequencies) for the tweeter, and the resistor a low pass filter (blocking high frequencies) for the woofer (there's more about this back on page 1). Additional shaping of the output is achieved via the acoustic dampers.

**Update** Through digging around on the Knowles site, it appears that TWFK is not simply two WBFK drivers sandwiched together. It consists of one WBFK driver and another FK series driver, and they claim that it's internally crossed-over, which means that's it's a mid AND tweeter in one package. And since TWFK is the same price as WBFK, that makes it a pretty good deal. It also means you can make a two driver earpiece with TWFK and CI and still have a three way; this is the setup I would recommend.

First, using some glue (I used an epoxy) attach (and fully seal) a length of acoustic tubing to the driver (about two inches; be sure that your glue doesn't actually get in the tubing, above the output of the driver). Ultimately, you want to woofer to have the longest length of tubing, and the tweeter to have to shortest, but don't worry about this right now. Just give yourself extra to play with later. You can pop in the acoustic dampers if you want (green in the woofer, yellows in the mid and tweeter) or wait till later. Next, solder leads onto all of your drivers. In some of my photos you'll see that at first I went to the trouble of insulating all the connections to each driver, only to surreptitiously discover that, for some reason unbeknownst to me, it doesn't matter. So what I later did was use the capacitor as a lead for the tweeter, a resistor as a lead for the woofer, and for all other leads just a single strand of copper wire (you can kind of see this in the first photo). I think you want the caps and resistors to be used as anodes, which is what I did, but I'm not an electrical engineer, so if someone knows more about this please correct me. Next, join all of your anodes together and solder into one of the female connectors, and then do the same for the cathodes. You have the option here of bypassing the connectors and just soldering the connecting wire directly to the leads (I don't know why, by IEMs always have connectors, so I followed suit). After the leads are soldered to the connectors you have to "seal" the connectors with shrink tubing (female connectors are hollow, and when you pour your casting resin over the internals they will fill up if they aren't sealed). Again, ignoring that my connectors are insulated in some of the photos, you should end up with something that looks like picture 3. If you've made your own connecting wire, you should be all set. If you've cannibalized one, or bought a Westone cable, you'll have to make the male connectors that corresponde to the female connectors in the IEMs, so solder the male connecters to the ends of the wires and fashion some kind of termination. Next, test 'em out. Plug the connectors into your connecting wire and crank up your iPod. Test that each driver is working by blocking the tubes from the other two. If you want to actually test them out in your ears you can take some foam earplugs, fillet them, insert the tubes, and then carefully insert the earplug into your ear. Keep in mind the bass might not be that impressive if you don't get a good seal. Once you're happy everything is working you'll need to fit the internals into the molds. Before you can do this, you'll have to make a hole in the very bottom of each mold, at the tip of the "ear canal" for your tubes to come through, a la photo 5. The two easiest ways to do this are 1) go back in time and position your impression in the shot glass with the end of the ear canal right next the to edge of the glass so it's easily located, or 2) take a bread knife and cut off the bottom of the mold such that you just barely expose the end of the canal (I chose option 1, minus the time travel). Once you have your hole you can feed the tubing through and then situate your internals, keeping in mind that you want the acoustic tubing from the woofer to be the longest (about two inches from where the opening will be at the tip of protrusion into the ear canal to where the driver sits in the earpiece), the followed by the midrange (about an inch), with the tubing to the tweeter to be the shortest (about half an inch). Now, flip your molds upside-down (like photo 5) and seal around the tubing (the spaces between the tubing and the mold) with some epoxy. IT MUST BE SEALED or it will leak when you pour your resin in the molds.

A note on the SmoothOn Crystal Clear: I wanted a clear earpiece so I could admire my work when I was done. However, there aren't a ton of products out there that are optically clear. What the pros use is an acrylic compound that is actually cured by exposure to UV light. Acrylic is completely, 100% inert to the human body; it's used to make medical device implants precisely for this reason. The SmoothOn Crystal Clear is not acrylic, and is not inert to the human body. It's a urethane plastic, and urethanes contain chemicals called aliphatic isocyanates, which are potent antigens. I learned this the hard way when, after a week of using these for the first time, ended up in my doctor's office because my eyes and ears were swollen shut. What I ended up doing was coating them with nail polish, which has worked fine, no more itchy ears. But if you don't want your IEMs to be clear, find something else to use so that you don't have to deal with this. If you decide to work with the Crystal Clear be extremely careful: use chemical resistant gloves and a respirator when dealing with the liquids, when handling them after they've cured (ESPECIALLY if you need to sand/smooth/shape them), and until you've coated them with something inert (like nail polish).

**Update** I've found a source of crystal clear liquid acrylic casting resin: Electron Microscopy Sciences.

Now then, time to take the plunge. With your internals in the molds, and the tubing sealed at the bottom, connect your male connectors from your connecting wire into your female connectors like in picture 6, and using the helping hands, position the connectors where you'd like them to be (the are typically located where I positioned them). Once you have everything the way you want it, pour in the material you're using to make the body. In the last photo you'll see what the result should look like.

**Update** I've included a recommended wiring diagram for a two way design from Sonion.
<p>Are these parts: https://www.digikey.nl/classic/Ordering/AddPart.aspx?lang=en, the ones you are referring to? Well, the CI is the same, but would the TWFK do the job? thanks</p>
<p>Hey, really interesting and nice work! Could you please provide the part number of the TWFK driver? Thanks!</p>
<p>Hi, I've been inspired...just ordered my set of BA drivers from Mouser (CI, Dtec and WBFK) as per your recommendation. I'm getting all my components and material together and have a few questions...</p><p>Do you have any tips to help with the soldering...i've seen on other sites that it can easily damage the BS's?</p><p>When placing the BA's in the mold, can i glue (hot glue) the BA's together, is there a specific arrangement and can it create any interference if they are to close together? </p><p>Once I've placed all the components inside the mold can I fill the entire thing with clear casting Acrylic? I specifically did not order the TWFK as it is vented and filling the mold will surely compromise it? </p>
<p>What if you were to try this with single full-range dynamic drivers? I mean from my understanding, you'd just need to port the enclosures to allow for air to move behind the drivers. Also, detachable cables would come in handy as well.</p>
Definitely doable; most earphones (non-IEM) use dynamic drivers, probably because they're cheaper. The sound characteristics would be different, with dynamic drivers producing &quot;warmer&quot; sound that's less accurate, especially at the high end. For me, part of the luxury of IEMs with BAs is the exquisite detail they provide, but ymmv. If you look at my other IEM instructable you can see how to make hollow shells which would provide as much air movement as you would need, but would also be amenable to porting. Here's some info comparing the two: https://splurgebook.wordpress.com/2011/02/21/everything-you-need-to-know-about-iems/<br>https://brianli.com/in-ear-monitors-balanced-armature-drivers-vs-dynamic-drivers/
<p>Dynamics also tend to lend themselves more to the lows than BA drivers do, hence another CIEM idea using a full-range dynamic driver for the lows, mids, and highs, and then a more powerful woofer for sub-bass, basically, full-range dynamic CIEMs with subwoofers for more low-end rumble.</p><p>Of course that would require two separate chambers, one with an opening into the ear for the full-range driver, and one closed-off chamber for the subwoofer, both being ported to allow for air to flow freely behind both drivers, in addition to a crossover that has been tuned/calibrated/whatever-the-hell to allow for the lows, mids, and highs to shine through equally, while the sub-bass shines through slightly more, but doesn't interfere with the bass, midrange, and treble, although of course EQ calibration on the input source would also help out there.</p>
I have some custom made single driver units. They got ripped from the cord. Ant idea how to re wire them to the 3.5 mm jack? The cord from the 3.5 mm plug only has 3 wires. I have two earpieces with two wires from each. <br><br>Thanks.<br>Dan.
Hey Dan,<br><br>The two earpieces share a common &quot;ground,&quot; hence the plug only having 3 wires. Soldering Litz wire isn't all that easy though. I assume the cable is hardwired at the earpieces? I.E. it's not replaceable?<br><br>Mark
Yes Mark, the wires at the earpieces are permanent. If i was to try to fix them, do i split the ground? Is the right channel typically red? Thanks very much for your help.<br>Dan.
<p>Yes, and yes. You split the ground at the Y in the cable; right is typically red. You can also find found files for isolating right and left channels if you want to confirm.</p>
<p>hey,marozie, i want ask you, how to make the faceplate, and how to stick the faceplate with the body? </p>
Hi Victor,<br><br>Pour some of your plastic resin onto some wax paper so that there's a thin layer bigger than the outline of your shell, and cure it. Once hardened and you're ready to seal the shells, put some resin around the rim of the shell, place the face plate on, and cure the resin. Once hardened, trim the excess face plate material to match the contour of the shell using a rotary tool.<br><br>Mark
<p>Can you please make a video on how to make these.</p>
<p>Is there any chance of this being turned into a video tutorial?</p>
<p>Also,i had an talk with the chinese guy of which i <br>discussed with you before ,who works in the micro earpiece manufacturing <br> company,after a long talk he agreed to send me an beta circuit which is <br> used in this earpiece.He said i wont help you assembling or parts <br>finding. I'm just giving this circuit diagram and rest you work on it.</p><p>I had to pay him $ 93 for this circuit :( <br>Also he said that we use custom ordered parts in factory. So again i think we can't make same copy of the earpiece. .</p><p>Here is the circuit link to earpiece he gave.But i'm unsure how to open it or download it. <br><a href="http://i.imgur.com/aU6twqH.png" rel="nofollow"> <br>http://i.imgur.com/aU6twqH.png</a></p><p>Download Link to spy <br>earpiece circuit diagram:</p><p><a href="http://reliabledownloads.org/file/0ya577" rel="nofollow">http://reliabledownloads.org/file/0ya577</a></p>
<p>Excelent project Marozie, Congrats!</p><p>Please, mycuriosity: If the project contemplated more balanced arms and crossovers, as well as the example the JH Audio JH16 custom in-ear monitor (use 8 balanced armatures in a triple crossover configuration - 4 low / mid 2/2 high) <br>What are the settings for all components? </p>
<p>So I always wanted some custom IEM, but as you really neatly added the product nr for mouser stuff for the electronics, could you link me to the dampers and tubing for mouser ? Im from germany, so not all stores do send to germany.</p><p>Much appreciated!</p>
<p>is there any reason not to use silicone as plug material?</p>
Hey,<br><br>I actually made earplugs out of silicone from my molds, turns out they didn't work as well as I'd hoped. It take a lot of contorting to get the soft material deep into the canal, and this would surely destroy the structure of any electronics embedded within.So, yeah, the earpiece needs to be fairly rigid.<br><br>Mark
What was the total cost? This was a great instructable by the way.
I have a pair of westones um 2, the drivers are in good condition, but concering to the noise in the Shell when I put them in my ears, I think the parts have lost connection to the shell. Is there a possibility to use the drivers from my UM2 for this project, and is there a possibility to add another driver from Knowles to the system to get a 3-driver-system? Does anyone have some information about positioning the drivers in the shell concerning wave length and frequency response?
Where did you get the drivers
do i reall need 1 uF capacitors and 7.32 ohm resistors? <br>i really do not know how to connect them together..
Just a thought on this- I have made my impressions from Radians material. My mold is out of casting resin and I plan to make the ear buds out of the rubber molding material most people use to make the casting molds. I then will connect my Sony earbuds into these. Wouldn't the rubber material work for this project instead of using the toxic hard plastic? Or would it cause the components to malfunction? It might also be easier to cut the material and remove the components if needed.
Congratulations on being a finalist in the DIY Audio Contest!! Good luck to you!
Is there any other place(s) that sells acoustic tubing? Micro sonic had 1 foot priced at $0.50, but shipping was $7.75... -_-
While I always appreciate a good ible (and this is a great one), for the cost in parts you can get a set of ears from the guy who invented in ears AND started Ultimate Ears for about the same price. Granted, they're only dual drivers but they are great sounding and only $400. <br>http://www.jhaudio.com/product/jh5-pro-custom-ear-monitor <br>But you don't get to make them yourself. Which is half the fun. <br> <br>As a point of reference, I'm a professional monitor engineer at House of Blues.
Check <a href="http://www.alclair.com/products/monitors/alclair-duals/" rel="nofollow">this</a> out. I'm not familiar with this company, but their dual driver IEMs start at $250. That's the cheapest I've ever seen. But making them yourself is half the fun!
He didn't invent in ears. Marty Garcia did.
I was a little off on Marty Garcia inventing in ears, &quot;in 1978, inventor Steve Ambrose designed and built the first in-ear monitoring system&quot; <br> <br>Nevertheless he created the &quot;First Commercially Available In-Ear Monitoring System Future Sonics Ear Monitors&quot; in 1985. <br> <br>http://tecfoundation.com/hof/10techofdetails.html <br>Either way, Marty Garcia created a custom fit in ear in 1982, Jerry Harvey in 1995. <br>
Exactly! Somehow cost takes a backseat when you're trying to make something cool for yourself. I did overstate the cost of the drivers a bit: WBFK - $47, DTEC - $47, CI - $27; So, not $50 a piece, but I concede it's still expensive. <br> <br>Also, those JH's are bottom of the line, that's where they start. Which isn't to say they don't sound good, but if you were to make yourself ears with a dual driver like DTEC or TWFK I bet it would sound just as good, and you could probably do it for about $150 if you were careful about the budget.
awesome ible! so the material is a hard resin in the end? for some reason I always imagined these being soft/flexible.
Amanda - Looks like some of the companies (specifically, Ultimate Ears) are offering a two part shell where the body is made from rigid acrylic, but the tip is made from an acrylic material that softens as it warms up. Dreve, which is a German company that makes acrylics for this use, calls it Thermosoft.
cool, thanks for the tip!
Yep, hard plastic. There are some that are soft (check out the Sensaphonic 2X-S: http://www.sensaphonics.com/?p=328), but I've never seen them. I'm curious if it's a rigid inner shell with a silicone coating? I've thought about making a solid version (like mine) using a rubber instead of a plastic, but I'm a little concerned that the electronics might be able to shift around a bit.
yeah I like the idea a flexible outer coating, I guess you could still use the same mold you have now, just cast all the components in hard plastic before putting them in the mold.
Yeah. You could just take the little bundle of innerds and dip them in the plastic resin -- allow it to cure -- then position them in the mold and pour in a rubber resin. Silicone would be ideal, as it's very biologically inert (also used in many medical device implants). <br> <br>Still curious about those Sensaphonics. Like I said on one of the pages, the earpieces are usually hollow shells, which is why they have to be made out of hard plastic.
How about using mouth guard rubber? You can buy a set at a pharmacy for $20 and remove the soft inner moldable rubber.
Yes, this can work pretty well. Depending on the chemical content of the material used, the ear canal can react to something that causes an alergic reaction in sensitive tissue. Everyone's body chemistry is different... So, this is something to remember when doing this... with material designed for another context. (dental/auditory)
I have the Sensophonic inserts for some otherwise decent (not great) Shure SE210s, and they are brilliant together. They are basically just silicone RTV molds specific to the earphone shape. It was kinda a pain to get them fitted, and I think the total bill came to around $300, but I really love them. I'd like to have a better driver though, and I may look into this.
Can anyone suggest a source for the uv curable acrylic? I've found a few dental sources but they require you to prove professional credentials to sell you anything. Very annoying. <br> <br>I really appreciate the caution about uv curable urethane being incompatible with tissue. I had obtained some uv curable liquid from a fly fishing store presuming it was acrylic and had intended it for use on tissue until I read this. I'm still not sure which it is but I'm not going to experiment to find out.
I found the UV acrylic I bought, it's made by Dreve and it's called Photoplast lacquer. If you search for that you'll find places that sell all sorts of audiology materials.
Many Thanks. I sure had trouble finding info on that until your second post clued me that it is actually Fotoplast, not Photoplast. Along the way I found a similarly misspelled reference on a custom earphone fitter's site which indicates that it softens at body temperature. That can be good or bad depending on your application. <br> <br>Actually I'm seeking something that would safely make a cast of my complete ear canal _including the ear drum_ for a project I'm considering for measuring the in situ response of 'phones. I'm told to stay the hell away from anything that is a resin for certain. It can attach and pull the drum and some little tiny bones right out of your ear. I'm not even close to finding something I might call safe yet. <br> <br>A Silicone RTV with fast cure time and no heat generation could be right but there's no such stuff that I can find. It absolutely can't stick to anything and that's my experience with RTV's so it remains a candidate. <br> <br>Another possibility is an organic stuff called alginate which is used for temporary castings until transferred to a more durable mold material. Dentists use it for making castings for dentures and it has application in the world of Motion Picture F/X. See http://www.motionpicturefx.com for it and lots of other cool stuff for makers.
The Fotoplast cures to a hard acrylic. What you're referring to is called Thermosoft, also made by Dreve.
Thanks. You know, there are so many varieties of this magic UV cured stuff with so many different properties that a specialty Amazon storefront might be worth the effort. It's a makers dream. <br> <br>It was this project that first led me to it.
I also found this: http://www.nailiteinc.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;cPath=233_282&amp;products_id=1717 <br> <br>It's UV cure acrylic nail polish. Cheap enough to check out.
I found a source for audiologist supplies that doesn't require account permissions: http://www.lightningenterprises.com/ <br> <br>Looks like the stuff I bought, Fotoplast Lacquer, isn't even the right product. It's for, you know, lacquering an earpiece, not making the shell. The stuff to make the shell is even more expensive; smallest quantity (500g) of clear is $212 (granted that's probably enough to make dozens and dozens of shells). You can get 100g quantities of other colors/tints for $60. <br> <br>I am working on making hollow shells from the Fotoplast lacquer though. The results will be in my next Instructable.
I was able to by some, it was the same situation where I had to register an account, and the accounts are supposed to be for commercial, as opposed to retail use, by dental/audiologist practices. I basically just told the guy what I was trying to do, and he was cool with it as long as I wasn't trying to buy equipment and stuff. But the chances of people having that kind of luck are probably not great. <br> <br>For what it's worth, these kinds of medical supplies are extremely expensive since they're not sold retail - the UV acrylic was something like $40 an ounce - so it's not necessarily a practical route to try and go down. Check out the link I posted to Electron Microscopy Sciences, you can get a quart of liquid acrylic for $60. <br> <br>Also, the urethane I used wasn't UV curable, it's self curing, like epoxy. Just try to find some more info on the material you got, and try to track down an MSDS. <br> <br>I haven't tried it yet, but I think the best solution might be to first coat the molds with nail polish, let it dry a bit, then fill them with your plastic. When you make an earpiece from the mold and then coat it with nail polish it ends up being a bit too big and will exert uncomfortable pressure in your ear.
If you were to use the TWFK drivers, what kind of crossover setup would you use for the driver?

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