>>>I take no responsibility for you "bricking" your car for your not wiring things properly. <<<
Designing an EVSE, or charger as some say, is a great learning experience as well as having control of the form factor make it well worth the time and trouble to make one.
>>>READ THE ENTIRE INSTRUCTABLE BEFORE YOU TRY TO BUILD THIS!!!<<<
I also assume that you know how to work safely, and how to wire things in reference to a schematic.
Step 1: Tools and Supplies
J1772 EVSE control board - Open EVSE project (should be in Google Code, and they have great diagrams for EVSEs.)
J1772 Plug & Cord assembly - TucsonEV
Contactor/Relay/SSR - Electrical Supply
Box - Home Depot
12v PSU - Electronics Shop
Strain Relief for J1772 cable assembly - Electrical Supply
CR Magnetics 8420-1000-G - DigiKey
Heat-shrink tubing - Electronics Shop
Micro Torch/Heat Gun
Step 2: A Little Background
SAE J1772 is a North American standard for electrical connectors for electric vehicles maintained by the Society of Automotive Engineers and has the formal title "SAE Surface Vehicle Recommended Practice J1772, SAE Electric Vehicle Conductive Charge Coupler”. It covers the general physical, electrical, communication protocol, and performance requirements for the electric vehicle conductive charge system and coupler. The intent is to define a common electric vehicle conductive charging system architecture including operational requirements and the functional and dimensional requirements for the vehicle inlet and mating connector.
Step 3: Design
I thought that I'd be different and mount most of my hardware in a case that is designed to be a flush-mount with the wall.
When you have all of the parts, position them in the enclosure so that you can visualize the locations of where they are going to be mounted. It is also good to note that you may want to make a HV/HP(High Voltage/High Potential) and a LV/LP(Low Voltage/Low Potential) side. This allows for troubleshooting with a reduced risk of electrocution. Be sure to mount the GFCI Doughnut (the CR magnetics current transformer) close enough to the control board so you can reach it with the leads.
When you get everything the way you like it, mark the holes. This'll come in handy later.
The file below will give you a general idea as to what we are doing and it should be referenced as it is the design we are going off of. It is also the exact wiring diagram for using a contactor. (Thanks go to the Open EVSE project for the file.)
Step 4: Got Control? (Mounting the EVSE Controller)
EVSE control boards usually have 2-4 mounting holes. The best way to mount one is to lay the board into the case and mark the holes with a sharpie. Then Drill and tap the holes. (I don't mean tap with your finger either.) Once you get your control board mounted you should be connecting wires as you go along.
IF an LCD is wanted it can be purchased and installed in the case. Just be sure to cut a hole big enough for you to be able to mount the LCD that you chose.
This is the time to configure the control board for what amperage setting that you want. Use a setting that is under your breaker size by at least 20%. This is to accommodate NFPA and NEC electrical requirements. Follow the instructions that are on the Open EVSE site for configuring your control board using the Arduino IDE.
Step 5: HV Ahead (mounting the Contactor)
A SSR does the same thing as a contactor but it is solid state and in general requires smaller voltage to complete the circuit. The SSRs need to be mounted on a heatsink with a fan to keep them cool. Again mounting varies with each, but I'll give a general idea of how to mount them.
Wether mounting SSRs or a contactor, mark and drill your holes. Tap each hole and thread a screw from the BACK of the EVSE's enclosure. This allows you to use just nuts on the inside of your EVSE. Tighten them down to hold them into the EVSE.
Wire the SSRs or contactor up to the EVSE controller board. (I assume you know that + is positive, - is negative, and ~ means AC voltage.)
At this stage it might be a good idea to connect power leads for the PSU of your choice. These leads will be discussed further in the next step.
Step 6: The Low End (12v PSU)
Mount the PSU into the enclosure. There are typically 2-4 screws that hold it into place. (NOTE: 3M Moulding Mount Tape can mount your PSU to the case instead of using screws.)
Hook up the leads from the supply side of the SSRs to the AC side of the PSU. The 12v Output from the PSU goes to the EVSE control board. (Again, I assume you know that + is positive, - is negative, and ~ means AC.)
Step 7: Cables, Cables, Cables Where Would We Be Without You? (mount and Attach the J1772 Connector)
Now there are many ways to attach the cable, this I will leave up to you. BUT before you do put the Current Transformer onto the 2 120v lines. The cables run through the center of the transformer. Then attach the end to the load side of the SSRs or contactor.
The ground line connects to the chassis ground bolt.
The J1772 pilot line connects to the EVSE control board.
Step 8: Breaker One-Nine (Circuit Breaker Selection and Installation)
Step 9: Ouch, Shocked Myself (testing)
Remember this though, "One Flash and you're Ash". That is a principal you should always work by. Check every connection with a volt meter BEFORE you handle anything on the HV/HP side. Make DOUBLE sure that there is no voltage and that the circuit breaker going to the Mains is turned off. If a disconnect is required, lock the enclosure with a padlock after you turn it off. (That way some kid doesn't turn the Mains back on while you're working.) Then check the connections.
IF all went well, you should have a working EVSE. If not follow the troubleshooting instructions on the Open EVSE page.
(Sorry for no photo, having a dispute with some as to the cause of a fuse failure and am not wanting to give them ammo.)
Step 10: Finish IT! (WE ARE DONE!!)
Other than that you are done with construction. Now you need to mount the thing, which would be another instructable entirely.