Introduction: DIY PORTABLE LOUD SPEAKER
Hello again mates!! :D
So this mono box is powered by the LM386 simple audio amplifier which i built earlier...
Believe me, i nailed the casing and you will be surprised how loud and clear a small and cheap speaker ( 2$ or 140 Rs ) can go!
This portable and light weight plug and play speaker will be your perfect companion for your music experience while traveling ! Share the joy of listening to your favorite tracks at maximum volume with your friends :D
I have added a gain control to the circuit to make it go Crrazzyy LOUD !!!
Step 1: THE TEST
Step 2: SPECIFICATIONS
OUTPUT POWER : 1 Watt
OPERATIONAL VOLTAGES : 6 - 12 V
OUTPUT (in decibels ) : 80dB .. peak : 87dB
IF YOU DON'T KNOW HOW LOUD 80dB IS, TAKE A LOOK AT THIS FOR REFERENCE :
weakest sound heard 0 dB
normal conversation at 3-5 ft 60-70 dB
dial tone of telephone 80 dB
city traffic inside car 85 dB
BOTTOM LINE, THIS MONO BOX GETS INSANELY LOUD ! ;)
Step 3: THE COMPONENTS LIST
1) 1 * Plastic/Cardboard enclosure ( MUST BE AT LEAST TWICE THE DIAMETER OF THE SPEAKER IN LENGTH )
2) 1* Speaker driver
3) 1* Single pole double throw switch .... a toggle switch basically ...
4) 1* DC Power jack
5) 2* 10K Potentiometer
6) 1* DC Power plug
7) 1* Mono 3.5mm pin
8) 1* Perfboard ( choose a size which is convenient for you to work with )
9) 2* 10uf Electrolytic capacitor
10) 1* 100uf Electrolytic capacitor
11) 1* 1000uf Electrolytic capacitor
12) 2* L.E.Ds ( Choose colors according to your tastes )
12) Some Male header pins
13) A 8 PIN IC BASE.... ( i lost mine, so couldn't use that in this instructable ) :P
14) A 9V cell ( optional)
15) 9V cell clip
Step 4: THE REQUIRED TOOLS
IF YOU ARE GONNA USE A CARDBOARD CASING:
A pocket cutter and some screwdrivers for cutting holes.
IF YOU ARE GOING FOR A GLASS/WOOD/ACRYLIC/PLASTIC CASING:
1) Drilling machine
2) 2mm drill bit
3) 6mm drill bit
4) 3mm drill bit
5) A hole saw depending on the diameter of your speaker. OR a dremel.
THE OBVIOUS TOOLS:
1) Soldering iron
2) Glue gun if required
3) Wire stripper
5) Helping hands ( optional )
Step 5: MISCS
1) Instant adhesives
2) heat shrink tubing ( 6mm and 3mm )
3) Nuts and bolts and screws obviously ..
Step 6: UNDERSTANDING THE SPEAKER
Okay, so a crappy sounding speaker, enclosed in a right material and design, can put on an amazing show !
FOR THE ENCLOSURE CHOOSE A MATERIAL WHICH IS DENSE TO AVOID ANY VIBRATIONS WHEN THE BASS DROPS. KEEPING THE ENCLOSURE COMPACT AND STURDY RESULTS IN GREAT CANCELLATIONS OF ' The hum ' AND IMPROVES THE CLARITY OF THE SOUND BASICALLY.
Step 7: THE CIRCUIT
Its's basically the same circuit as my previous one but with added gain control and a reactive L.E.D ... That's it .
Step 8: PREPARING THE ENCLOSURE
I used a rectangular firm cardboard box to make mine... You can go with any dense material according to your needs...
A 2mm screwdriver and a 6mm screwdriver is what i used to drill holes in the box.
1) 3* 6mm holes for the two potentiometers and a switch
2) 1* 10mm hole for the DC jack
3) 2 * 2mm holes for the input wiring
4) 2* 3mm holes for the L.E.Ds
Step 9: MOUNTING THE SPEAKER
Drill in four holes for the speaker around the circular cut in the cardboard.
Place the speaker in it's position and secure it with nuts and bolts.
Step 10: THE POTENTIOMETERS
1) Out of the 3 6mm holes, two will be for the potentiometers.
2) Screw in the potentiometers and secure them with nuts.
3) Put on the knobs.
Step 11: THE POWER AND SWITCH
1) The big 10mm hole will be for the power jack, screw it in and secure it with a nut.
2) The 3rd 6mm hole will be for the switch, screw it in and you know...
Step 12: PREPARING THE CIRCUIT
Choose a perfboard of appropriate size and solder the components onto.
Secure it in the inner bottom of the casing with some double sided tape.
Step 13: WHERE ALL THE COMPONENTS GET TOGETHER...
1) Solder the Audio input cable to it's respective connector.
2) Solder the DC power jack...
3) Solder the switch...
4) The volume control pot...
5) The gain control pot...
6) The speaker...
7) The power indicator L.E.D
8) THE music reactive led can be connected in parallel with the speaker.
NOTE: USE HEAT SHRINK TUBES TO AVOID DISCONNECTION OF WIRES AND TO AVOID SHORTING CIRCUITING THE SPEAKER DUE TO THE L.E.D's terminals.
AND I HAVE CONNECTED THE MUSIC REACTIVE L.E.D to the power input, so it won't exactly be ' Music reacting ' ...
Step 14: THE FINISHING UP !!
I used a model tin can's cap to act as a muffler for the speaker and to conceal the dirty looks of the cheap speaker too :p xD!
And that's it... GO WILD WITH YOUR IMAGINATION AND GO MAKE YOURSELF A POWERFUL AND SLEEK MONO BOX !!! :D
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