Cheap burning laser tutorial by Electorials
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This tutorial will explain every little thing you need to know about how to build a burning laser, it's an interesting project, which is still quite easy to make.
The picture above shows how mine looks but you can make the design of yours look totally different if you want to.

It's going to become a burning laser with controllable current. (current-regulated with an LM317T).
You can choose between a 9V battery and an external power input (see first picture on the left side).

Other regulators then an LM317T are also possible to use here. If you have any questions about them, ask it here!

Warning
It might be fun to have a burning laser, but not when it burns that one thing you don't want it to burn.
Use safety glasses! This is really not a simple toy.

High power lasers might also not be allowed in your country, keep that in mind.

I am not responsible for any accidents with this device, however all dangers are well noted in this instructable.

A video of the laser in action:


A video of the laser in action with a spirograph:
 
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Step 1: Requirements

The set-up is really simple, there are just few components:
(* means Required)

- Hot glue or other glue.
* A soldering iron /w soldering wire.
* A laser diode.
* A 100ohm potentiometer. (250mW)
* A 3.3ohm resistor (or 3x 10ohm resistor in parallel). (3x 250mW or 1x 0.5W).
- A regular diode 1N4001-1N4007 (everything between is also good).
  (or any other diode that can hold a reverse voltage of at least 40V)
- An On-Off switch/push-button/... as a main switch for the circuit.
- An On-On switch for switching between battery or external input.
* A 9V battery clip. (click here if you don't have one)
- A 9V battery. (not required if you use the external power input)
* An LM317T regulator (really cheap).
- An enclosure/box to put the whole project in -> I used an 8*5*3cm = 3.15*1.97*1.18inches black project box.
* A lens for adjusting the focal point of the laser beam.
- A connector for the external power input (if you want to use that).
* PDF reader for the datasheets.
* Your healthy brain and attention for safety measurements.

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dudefrom98 says: May 17, 2013. 3:58 PM
I got 6.88 volts as the output to go to the laser. Is this fine or should I put a regulator on it?
anubhavtalukdar007 says: Feb 16, 2013. 2:51 AM
Can i use a 1n4148 diode instead of the 1n4007?
Electorials (author) says: Feb 18, 2013. 3:38 AM
Hey,
You can use it, but because the maximum current is only 200mA, if you will be using strong laser diodes, I suggest you put two 1n4148's in parallel, so that they can handle 400mA.
SpecieS~ says: Nov 12, 2011. 9:47 AM
Hi, I'm wondering about the limiting potentiometer. Do you connect it exactly like the one for regulating the intensity? And do you still use 100ohm for regulating or do you change the value?

greetings, SpecieS
Electorials (author) says: Nov 12, 2011. 10:17 AM
hi,
I still use the same value, 100ohm (but I think 50ohm would be a little better, not sure).
It is indeed connected exactly the same, and placed in series.
SpecieS~ says: Nov 12, 2011. 10:53 AM
Thanks for your fast answer. I found some 50ohm 1/2watt precision trimmer, which would be perfect for the limiting job :D
A 300ohm resistor in parallel to the regulating potentiometer would reduce its maximum resistance to 75ohm. Seems to be a good compromise :)

greetings, SpecieS
Electorials (author) says: Nov 12, 2011. 11:05 AM
huh?
You say 'reduce' it's maximum resistance, but you say it goes from 50 to 75 then?

Indeed, a 50ohm trimmer would be nice.
When adding a resistor in parallel over it, you'll Decrease it's resistance, not increase to 75.
And also, when you added a resistor in parallel, the track resistance won't e linear anymore.

You don't need to add a parallel resistor, the 50ohm trimmer is perfect.
SpecieS~ says: Nov 12, 2011. 11:28 AM
Oh, you misunderstood what I said. I don't want to decrease the trimmers resistance but the regulating potentiometers resistance from 100 to 75ohm.
Electorials (author) says: Nov 12, 2011. 11:39 AM
Ahh yes, I see now.
but I don't think you'll get "more precision" out of it by doing that because it will make the slider non linear.

At the lowest resistance values, it will change faster now.
SpecieS~ says: Nov 12, 2011. 12:04 PM
Indeed, it makes it non linear, but I've inspected the function in kmplot and the graph is almost linear: http://img836.imageshack.us/img836/6051/resistancegraph.png

btw, I've made some new schematics including the second potentiometer using Eagle: http://img845.imageshack.us/img845/3899/schematicslaser.jpg
You may attach it to the instructable if you want.
Electorials (author) says: Nov 12, 2011. 12:54 PM
It al looks really good.
The schematic is also good but I think I'll just keep the one that I already have.
SpecieS~ says: Jan 2, 2012. 11:57 AM
My parts arrived today and I tried it out on a breadboard. The trimmer became hot so I removed it, but then turned the other poti a bit too far. :S
Fortunately I have another dvd-burner laying around...

ps: Happy new year :)
Electorials (author) says: Jan 2, 2012. 2:35 PM
The trimmer's power rating must have been to low.
I hope you got some nice results before the diode got fried? :)

Oh, and it's normal that you fried your first diode. You'll do that 10 more times haha! :)

Happy newyear!
SpecieS~ says: Jan 4, 2012. 2:06 PM
Well, according to the datasheet the trimmer's power rating is 0.5 watts at 70°C decreasing linearly to zero at 125°C. But obviously my diode exceeded this limit ( I suppose it was about 0.7 watts or more). I think next time I'll use the big poti to adjust to the right resistance, measure it and use some resistors in parallel to set the minimal resistance.

And I hope I don't need ten tries to build a working laser :D
Electorials (author) says: Jun 25, 2012. 2:43 PM
Tell me,
How is your laser now?
did it work out? :D

Greetings,
Electorials
SpecieS~ says: Jul 9, 2012. 2:19 AM
Hi there,
it works, but I don't have a collimator yet. I've already tried focusing the beam with a single lens, but it didn't burn anything. Maybe the diode is too weak. It's a bit smaller than usual, because it's from a laptop dvd-burner.
IMAG0142.jpg
Electorials (author) says: Jul 9, 2012. 2:59 AM
Wow! it's looking really good :D
It's nice to see that other people are also making this ;)
Good to see a picture of it!

And yes, the diode is probably just too weak.
However, DVD burner diodes should do the trick
Maybe it can handle more current than you are giving it now?
SpecieS~ says: Dec 5, 2012. 8:33 AM
Hey, I finally made some pretty simple optics from a ball pen and one of those lenses I kept while taking apart the drives. I also made a "quick 'n dirty" double-slit out of paper. The second picture shows it's interference pattern :D
IMAG0413.jpginterferenz.JPG
Electorials (author) says: Dec 6, 2012. 1:40 PM
That looks awesome :D
SpecieS~ says: Dec 7, 2012. 4:03 PM
Today I tried out some other materials for double-slits. Aluminum foil worked quite well, so I finally decided to make an 'ible of it :)
How To Make a Simple Double Slit
digas says: Aug 2, 2011. 2:40 PM
Every time i disassemble a dvd burner i get the diode , but the diode does not work! Any suggestions?
nbeched says: Dec 7, 2012. 1:14 AM
Just to add:
It's either the heat from the soldering iron or static discharge that very quickly destroys the diode. It doesn't have to be a massive/powerful discharge that you feel...

The safest thing to do is when you desolder the diode, solder or wrap a piece of wire to both pins so that they are always at the same potential and remove this wire right when you are ready to solder something else to it.

Also, don't forget that it is a diode, so it is polarised, meaning, if it does not work, try reversing the +/- to it.
Also, if you don't use the LM317 method described here, have some series resistor as supplying too much voltage will kill it just as quickly as a static discharge...

Have a good one.
Electorials (author) says: Aug 2, 2011. 2:51 PM
Did you solder anything to the diodes before you tested them?
maybe the heat of your soldering iron kills the diodes :/
digas says: Aug 3, 2011. 2:13 PM
nop, no solder!
Electorials (author) says: Aug 3, 2011. 2:20 PM
and other diodes do work? or did you only try dvd burner diodes yet?
digas says: Aug 4, 2011. 2:42 AM
only tried dvd burners!
oppie says: Aug 4, 2011. 6:56 AM
The laser diodes I've worked with are three terminal devices. One pin is the common. One pin is the laser diode and the other pin is an internal photodiode that monitors the laser output. Idea is to run the laser in closed loop at a stable optical output.

A laser running at very low current is no more than a LED. As you increase the current, light gets brighter and starts to transition to coherent radiation (LASing). The difference between the lasing threshold and overload where you destroy the diode out is rather small, hence the desire to use a closed loop optical feedback. This also compensates drive current for die temperature variations.
Typical diode datasheet http://media.digikey.com/pdf/Data%20Sheets/Sharp%20PDFs/GH06510B2A,B.pdf
Some good applicatoin information http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/laserdps.htm
Electorials (author) says: Aug 4, 2011. 7:26 AM
What you say is true, but I don't really see how it helps digas?

And that last link is indeed very useful ;)
oppie says: Aug 4, 2011. 9:47 AM
Sorry, I got distracted and had meant to add that he might have connected to the monitoring diode instead of the laser diode. Would be plausible reason why there was no light output but current being drawn.

Laser diodes are also rather sensitive to heat, mechanical shock and static discharge.
Electorials (author) says: Aug 4, 2011. 9:52 AM
Ahh ok ;)
Electorials (author) says: Aug 4, 2011. 3:50 AM
Then your diodes are probably not broken. I hope you didn't throw them away!

Could you tell me something about what driver, what pins on the diode (and polarity), power supply, resistors (if LM317), ... you are using?

(if you want to, you could also send me some pictures of the setup. it'll be easier for me to understand then).
digas says: Sep 8, 2011. 1:58 PM
I didn't threw them way, but I don't know where they are! :(
They all had 3 pins!
Electorials (author) says: Sep 10, 2011. 6:48 AM
:( not good
maildude says: Oct 17, 2012. 1:46 PM
does anything change if u use a blu ray diode?
do u need a other regulator or other different parts?
Electorials (author) says: Oct 17, 2012. 1:55 PM
No, it'll be the same components :)
Selmerman says: Sep 4, 2012. 6:17 PM
hi, quick question, I have a small 28 turn 100 ohm potentiometer. how would I wire this potentiometer. This potentiomer has the number 3296 and is made by King.
agedesign says: Sep 4, 2012. 4:14 PM
i'm just learning in electronics but this lm317 sounds like a simple voltage regulator and if so at what voltage does it regulate at
Electorials (author) says: Sep 4, 2012. 4:27 PM
It's not just a simple voltage regulator.
It can be used as a voltage regulator and it can also be used as a current regulator (which is what we use it for here).
The current can be set by changing the resistance between the output and adjust pin.

There are also other voltage regulators around which indeed just have a fixed voltage. For example: an L7808 will have a fixed voltage of 8V.
assassino desigen says: Jul 15, 2012. 12:55 PM
What a kind of diod and what kind of lens I should use
E mail for arsalanmzz@gmail.com
thonypogi says: Jul 8, 2012. 7:41 AM
awesome ! :D

can i ask question ? in your 1st video, you labeled a trimmer potentiometer.
but it is not in your list of materials and circuit diagram.
only large 100ohms 250mw potentiometer.
what is the purpose of that pot and where i'll connect it on circuit ?

and how can i extract laser diode on "tiny thing" that extremely glued or epoxy ?
can i grind it using small file ??

thanks ! :)
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