Introduction: DIY MT-50 Multitouch Table

The MT50 is a projection based 50” multitouch table. It is 31” high with casters and meets ADA (American’s with Disabilities Act) standards. The MT50 supports a resolution of 1280x720. Its frame is made of aluminum, the shell is steel, and surface is thick tempered glass. The table is virtually indestructible and is designed for use in busy public spaces.


We’ve literally dropped bowling balls on it to test its toughness.


Ideum, a New Mexico-based company, built and sold MT50 multitouch tables between 2009 and 2010. There are dozens of these tables installed in museums, research labs, and a few are even installed at Fortune 500 companies across North America. The MT50 has been discontinued, as of March 2011, and has been replaced by a number of LCD based multitouch tables and multitouch coffee tables: It is worth mentioning that many of the techniques used in the MT50 are still used for large-scale installations such as walls, multiple projector tables. We have blogged about building 7-foot multitouch wall that is currently at the Monterrey Bay Aquarium.

The instructions for the MT-50 are being released as part of the Open Exhibits, museum software and hardware initiative. Open Exhibits multitouch and multiuser software is free to students, museums, nonprofits, and US Government agencies.

If you have any suggestions for how we might improve these instructions, please let us know.

The Ideum and Open Exhibits Team
Corrales, New Mexico

Step 1: Assembling the Aluminum Frame

The main frame for the MT-50 is made of Bosch aluminum. The entire kit for the MT-50 can be purchased from our Bosch Supplier in the United States, Pacific Integrated Handling. If you would like to order the kit, please contact their office and let them know you’d like the Ideum MT-50(200-05320) kit.

Pacific Integrated Handling Inc
 480-379-0100 (phone)
Ideum MT-50(200-05320) kit

The kit will come with all the needed aluminum strut, screws, T-nuts, and gussets that are needed to assemble the aluminum frame.
If you have ever played with an Erector set, you will be able to put together the Bosch aluminum frame very easily.  

To assemble, you will need the following tools:
  • 1 Metric 2.5 Hex Key
  • 1 Metric 4 Hex Key
  • 1 12mm Socket w/ wrench

The different thicknesses of aluminum strut will be referred to in millimeters.  For the most part, the sizes in this kit are 45x45mm, 30x30mm, 20x20mm, and 20x40mm.  This size convention also works for the Gussets (the triangular pieces that are used to connect strut). There will be 45mm gussets, 30mm, and 20mm.

You will need to refer to the drawing and strut diagram to put the frame together.  The strut chart will show thickness, length, quantity, and a part letter.   Use the part letter and the diagram to figure out which piece goes where. Do not attach the wheel assemblies until you have the bottom panel on.

Part F on the diagram needs to be slightly modified so that the wheels can be attached to it properly. A ½” hole will need to be drilled as shown in the image above. 

Step 2: Installing the Bottom Panel

Once the frame is complete, you will want to install the bottom panel.  The bottom panel will have 6 120mm fan cutouts, and have cut-outs for 2 boxes; a power box for the incoming 120v power 2x4 handy box), and a cut-out for the Input/Output/Power Switch box (2 gang metal box).

To attach the bottom panel to the frame, you will have to orient the panel correctly on the frame. There is one side of the frame that uses Part C (45x45mm strut with a notch cut out). That is the side that the projector will be on. If you were standing on that side of the frame, the bottom panel cut out for the smaller electrical box should be on the right side, the larger electrical box cut out on the left side, both on the opposite of the side you are standing on.

Place 14 M5 screws (not included with Bosch kit) and T-nuts into the outside holes around the perimeter of the panel. Once all of the screws and T-nuts are in, flip the entire Bosch frame upside down, and place the panel on with the orientation described above. Line the T-nuts up so that they all fall into the middle channel on the strut. Tighten up all of the screws around the perimeter so that the bottom panel is snug and lined up with the frame.

You can now attach the wheels that came with the kit, and should flip the entire assembly on its side to install the fans.

To install the fans, you will need the following:
  • 24 M3 12mm screws with locking washers and nuts
  • 6 Silicon Vibration Absorbers
  • 6 120mm plastic fan filter
  • 6 120mm fan

To create a good flow of air through the table, 3 fans should be blowing air in, and 3 should be pushing air out. If you were standing on the same side of the frame as Part C (notched cut out on strut) then the fans on your left side should be positioned to blow air up and into the table. The other 3 should be positioned the opposite way, blowing the air down and out.
Place the silicon vibration absorber on the bottom of the fan, place the fan on top of the bottom panel along the screw holes, place the plastic fan filter on the bottom of the bottom panel, and secure the entire assembly with the M3 screws (not included with Bosch kit).  Do this for all of the fans.

To install the electrical boxes and I/O box, you will need to do the following:

The electrical box and I/O box are going to be facing down.  You will need to drill holes in the side of the boxes to allow them to attach to the strut that is on the side of their cutouts.

Place the electrical box face down on the bottom panel just below the cutout.  Mark the side of the electrical box where the middle channel in the strut is.  Use that mark to drill holes on the long side of the boxes.  
Before attaching the boxes to the strut, some minor electrical work needs to happen with the two 2x4 handy boxes. One of the boxes will be facing downward in the cut out. The second 2x4 handy box will be facing upward.

Remove one of the ½” knockouts on each box, and attach a 1/2” Romex connector.

Cut about 2 feet of SO cord, and run between the two boxes. The amount of cable between the boxes can be very short, just make sure you have plenty of cable coming out of each box to wire up the receptacles later on.

Make sure one box is facing up and the other facing down and tighten Romex connectors.

Use small 8mm T-nuts and accompanying screw to attach the boxes to the strut.
 

Step 3: Assembling the Computer

Below are the specs for the computers that we include in our tables. Parts for this computer are definitely variable, EXCEPT for the IEEE1394 card. This card (since there are limited PCI and PCIE lanes on the small system board) needs to be Dual Channel/Dual Port, 1394A, and we’d recommend that it was a card that had a Texas Instruments chipset. The chipset could cause problems if you are using a camera such as the PT Grey FireflyMV. The emphasis on this kind of card is due to the cameras. If multiple PT Grey FireflyMV cameras are on a single channel, you will overflow the 1394 bus, and cause something (usually the tracker) to go crazy, or the system to give you a lovely blue screen error.  

If you intend on using USB cameras such as the PS3Eye, then additional 1394 cards are not necessary.
The form factor of the computer is very small.  We would recommend you use the case we have listed (or something very similar) to place the system in.  The small form factor is needed to fit a high end system in the table without taking up room that would affect the IR lighting and projected image.

Computer Specifications

The MT50 standard computers have the following hardware:
  • Intel i7 930 2.8GHz processor
  • NVidia GeForce 470 Graphics Card
  • 4GB DDR3-1600 RAM
  • 2 300GB 10,000 RPM SATA hard disk drives in a RAID 1 configuration(using the system boards soft RAID system)
  • Windows 7 Professional
  • 2 dual channel IEEE1394A cards
  • 920 Watt Power Supply
  • Custom power switch set up

Many of these parts can be changed out.  You will need the 920-Watt power supply (this also powers the fans and IR lights) and the 1394 cards. Using a lower amount of RAM and a slower processor may result in a slightly sluggish computer.

An i7 is not necessary, but at least a quad core of some sort is recommended.

2GB of RAM will work, but a minimum of 4GB is recommended.
Hard drive space is at the builder’s discretion. If you plan on having a lot of media, go for large drives.  If you are worried about redundancy, double the drives up and set up a RAID.

Most tracking software still runs on Windows XP, so that could also be an option for the OS.

The power switch on the computer case has been disconnected and hooked directly into the blue LED power switch on the bottom of the table.

On most computer system boards, there should be 2 pins for On/Off power button function, and 2 pins for LED power for the On/Off buttons. Refer to the system board manual to locate those pins.

The power switch on the MT-50 is located on the bottom 2-gang panel that also has the USB, Audio, HDMI, and RJ-45 connections on it.

Step 4: Bottom Panel I/O and Power Faceplates

There will be two different sized square cutouts with the electrical boxes you installed earlier.

The plates and panel mount cables can be ordered from www.datapro.net.
The double gang box will be for the I/O connections and the power button. It has the following cut outs:
  • 2x USBA
  • 1x CAT5
  • 2x HDMI
  • 2x 3.5 mm stereo
  • 1x custom circular hole (7/8" diameter)

Attach the panel mount cables and the power switch to the plate. You will now have to get the other ends of the cables through the knockouts on the 2 gang electrical box. Once you have all of the cables through the box, attach the face plate to the electrical box with the provided screws.

The single gang box will be for the main power inlet for the entire system. We use a C14 inlet (same type of plug you’ll find on the back of any computer). This face place can also be ordered through datapro.net. This plate has one C14 cut out on it.

Step 5: Applying Infrared Light Strips

There are three rows of high-intensity infrared LEDs in the table on the lighting rig.  Each row is wired independently of the others, so if one connection or strip fails, the others will still work. With less infrared illumination, the table will be impaired but will still function.

The LED strips that we use come from Environmental Lights. With the lighting setup we show in the diagrams about 2 ½ rolls ended up being used, so you will need to purchase 3 rolls. There are many different types of IR LED strips, but we have found that the High Brightness with 5050 LEDS work the best for this application. You can find these strips here: http://www.environmentallights.com/products/13104/irrf850-5050-60-reel. These LEDs come in rolls and are backed with an adhesive. To install the LEDs, you’ll first want to measure the LEDs on the aluminum lighting rig. The strips need to be slightly staggered to ensure enough room for the connections.

The lengths of the strips do not have to be exact. If you look at the drawing, you can see how we applied them to the aluminum. When you make a cut on the strips, make sure you do it on the designated cut line or you could damage the circuit.

Once you’ve cut a strip, check to make sure that it is aligned correctly before adhering it to the rig. The edges of the strips on the outsides of the struts should align with the edge of the strut, and middle strips should be centered on the strut. When applying the strips after you’ve cut them, make sure that the polarity matches up with the other strips to make wiring easy. We usually just kept the positive side to the outside edge. Check the polarity on the strips by looking for the little + and -.

Now that the strips are attached to the rig, you can solder the strip connections. The LED strips have small round pads that can be soldered to. Cut the wire to the correct lengths and silver the ends of the wire. Place a piece of shrink-wrap on the strip before soldering and put a tiny amount of flux on each connection. Get a small bead of solder on your soldering iron and quickly solder each wire to the connections, then heat the shrink wrap to shrink it, making sure the wires are separated.
Once all of the cables are connected to the lighting strips, route the cables so that they end up near the computer power supply. You will then need to place 4 pin Molex connectors on each set of wires so that they can be connected to the power system.

Step 6: Connecting Low Voltage Electrical

At this point, you should have the electrical leads from the fans and from the lights routed so that they reach near the computer. Use a 4 square electrical box as a junction point for all of the connections. Route two of the connectors from the computer power supply that have 4 pin Molex connectors on them into the box. Use the Molex connectors to plug in the fans and lighting wires. The fans should have come with 3 pin-to-4 pin adapters.

Step 7: Applying Projection Film to Glass and Masking

On our tables, we use custom pieces of glass with projection film on one side. The glass is 10mm thick with a fine micro-etch on the top surface. The glass is etched in a way that doesn't adversely affect the way that light passes through the glass while providing haptic feedback. The micro-etch also provides a reduction in reflected light and an increase in viewing angle to almost 180 degrees.

The diffusion material on the underside of the glass is a custom projection film selected to provide the best performance with short-throw projectors. The material actively scatters the light, giving the screen a low incidence angle (meaning the image is viewable from a wide range of angles) with evenly distributed brightness.

Applying the projection film to the glass can be tricky with this setup.  What we have listed is what we use, and have found to work best for this application.  Of course there are always other methods, some much cheaper.  

We used Spyeglass SpyeSmoke film on the MT-50, cut to 34.5” x 53.5”.

This film worked best with the short throw projector we used, and had little to no hot spotting. You can apply this film yourself by following the instructions included, but we used a professional tinting company to apply ours, and to apply the black mask that borders the edge.

Once the film is applied, we masked off the outside area of the glass to be painted black.  The mask was 4 15/16” off of each edge.  You can use painter’s tape and some plastic to protect the inside area of film from being painted. We came to these mask dimensions for a few reasons; it gives us a 50” diagonal image, and it covers up the projector that is installed on the side of the table.

Peau Productions offers a good page that shows other diffusion material options. You can find that here http://peauproductions.com/diffusers.htm

Step 8: Installing Glass Surface

Before installing the glass into the table, you’ll need to put a rubber seal on the steel mantle to help seal the table against liquids and cushion the glass. We used 3M 2228 Moisture Sealing Electrical Tape. Cut and apply the strips along the 4 pieces of the top mantle.

With the mantle placed in the aluminum frame without the glass, mark precisely where the holes on the inside of the mantle are on the aluminum strut. After you have marked those holes, remove the mantle and place 8mm T-nuts with an M4 hole exactly where you made the marks. To hold the T-Nuts in place, you can wedge some masking tape around the nut.
Once the tape is applied and the T-nuts are placed into the aluminum frame, you are ready to place the glass in. This will take 2 or 3 people.

Place the two shorter pieces of the mantle into the frame. Place the glass into one end, and rest that end in the aluminum frame. Lift the other side of the glass up and place the other short piece on the glass. Lift the entire piece of glass out, and place the two longer pieces of the mantle on the glass, and lower the entire construction into the aluminum frame. Once it is in, secure the top mantle with M4 screws into the T-nuts that were placed into the frame previously.

Step 9: Installing the Projector

The table uses an InFocus IN-1503 short-throw projector. With a projection throw ratio of 0.7:1 (projection distance: image width) it's one of the shortest-throw projectors on the market, and, after testing several different models we've found that this projector has the most predictable optical behavior.

You can use a different projector, but you’ll want to make sure it’s a short-throw projector; otherwise, the image being projected may be quite a bit smaller.

To hold the projector in place, we use a custom steel plate that is screwed into the table’s aluminum frame. The projector must be carefully screwed onto the plate. 

There are 3 holes in the middle of the plate, and 3 holes on the bottom of the projector. Between the plate and the projector, you will want to use ¼” nylon spacers with a non-threaded hole in the middle. Place the spacers over the holes on the projector, and place the plate on top, lining up the holes. Attach with 12mm M4 counter sunk pan head screws.

Once you have the plate and projector put together, you will need to attach it to the aluminum struts marked H on the frame diagram. To attach to this strut, the 4 outside holes on the plate will need an M4 screw with a 6mm T-Nut.

You will want to move the projector assembly as high up on the strut as possible, but before you do that you will need to attach the 90 degree HDMI connector and the 90 degree power cord. The power cord should slide into the cut out in the strut (Part C).

Once the projector is installed, hook it up to the computer, and power it on.
You will want to change some basic settings on the projector so that it doesn’t reset keystone, power off, etc.

Change the following settings:

AC Power On                   ON
Auto Source                     OFF
Power-Up Source              HDMI
Auto Keystone                  OFF

Replacement bulbs for the projector can be ordered here

 

Step 10: Installing & Calibrating the Mirror

The mirror used in the MT-50 is a first surface mirror. First surface mirrors have no gap between the object and its reflection, because the mirror coating sits on the top of the glass rather than on the rear of the glass. This also prevents ghosting, which occurs when the projector image bounces off the bottom of the glass and back through. First surface mirrors are more prone to scratching, so as you take off the plastic sheets protecting the mirror to place it in the frame, it’s important to be careful.

Assemble 3 sides of the mirror rig. There will be some small L brackets in the Bosch kit that will allow you to assemble the 45 degree pieces. You may want to leave the protective film on the mirror for the next few steps. Once 3 sides are assembled, slide the mirror into the rig. Place the 4th side on and secure all of the setscrews. Pull up the protective film around the perimeter of the mirror, and apply the thin rubber stripping that came with the Bosch kit. This will keep the mirror from sliding around inside the rig.

Once the mirror is placed in the frame, two rows of infrared LED strips need to be applied to the frame. These LEDs are wired in one circuit. See the wiring diagram to see how the mirror LED strips are placed and wired.

The mirror is connected to the frame by the 4 mirror turrets (Part N). Four 20x20mm gussets will be used to attach the mirror to the turrets, and to be able to make adjustments to the angle of the mirror. The four gussets need to be slightly modified. There are 2 tabs on each side of the gusset that usually sit in the middle channel of the strut. Remove these tabs on one side so that the mirror will be able to sit flat on that side of the gusset. Attach the gussets to the inside of the turrets and place the mirror on the gussets. Loosely screw the gussets to the mirror rig.

Power on the computer and start up the projector. You should have configured the computer to output to the projector with a resolution of 1280x720.

The IN1503 projector has a physical zoom knob that should be zoomed in as far as possible. You will now have to adjust the gussets attached to the turrets and mirror to get the projected image to fit within the masked off area on the glass.

Since you will be moving the mirror at different angles, you will have to adjust the keystone setting on the projector. You can access the keystone settings on the projector by using the remote control. 

Press the menu button, press select on the Basic Picture option, and scroll down to Keystone. Try starting at a keystone of about 54, and then adjust the mirror from there.
 

Step 11: Installing the Cameras

Three PT Grey Firefly MV (Firewire version) cameras are used in the MT-50 to track the finger movements on the table surface. The cameras come in a small plastic case with a mount assembly. Before mounting the cameras, they need to be taken apart to install the band pass filter.

Remove the case of the cameras to reveal a small circuit board.

There will be a lens mount attached to the board by two screws. Remove the lens mount to reveal a rubber grommet and a small clear lens. You will also see the small CMOS sensor in the middle of the board. This is essentially the ‘lens’ of the camera, so be sure not to allow anything to come into contact with it.

Remove the rubber grommet, and take out the clear lens. Replace the clear lens with the band pass filter. Reassemble the camera.

Once the plastic case is back together, you can then put on the camera lens, and attach the mounting hardware.

Use a 20 x 20 gusset to attach each camera to the camera rig. You will need to drill out one side of the gusset with a ¼” drill bit to enable it to fit the camera screw hole. Using a rubber washer to prevent the gusset from damaging the side of the camera, screw the gusset onto the camera with an M6 screw. Put a screw with 20 mm T-nut into the other side of the gusset and screw the camera to the rig.

Camera spacing is very important to ensure stitching and may need to be adjusted once the tracking software is installed. See the attached diagram to get an idea of the rough spacing that should be used if using a 3-camera system. 

The cameras are powered and controlled via FireWire. When the camera feed is cropped within the tracking software, it actually communicates with the camera's BIOS and tells it to ignore those extraneous pixels, making the processing very stable and lowering the amount of bandwidth needed to run the cameras. The middle camera runs on its own Firewire card, since it has a larger area to monitor, and the outer two share one, ensuring that the camera feed won't exceed the available bandwidth, which can cause the OS to throw a stop code (Blue screen of death) and force the computer to be restarted.

Step 12: The Smart Strip

Once all of the systems are put together and hooked up properly, you will want to set up the Smart Strip.

On the Smart Strip, there is 1 Control outlet, 2 Always Hot outlets, and 4 Switched outlets.

What you will want to do is plug the computer directly into the Control outlet. Plug the projector into one of the switched outlets.

We do this so that once the computer turns on via the power switch, the projector will automatically power on and off when the computer is on/off (as long as you have set the projector settings as mentioned before).

The Smart Strip has a small control on it that may need to be adjusted from time to time depending on incoming voltage. The Smart Strip switched outlets are controlled by a relay in the strip. When the control device (the computer) is turned on, it activates the relay, which turns on the switched outlets (fan power supply, audio amplifier, and touch overlay.) Occasionally, if there is a slight voltage change, the relay may not turn off or back on.

If the switched outlets never turn on:
  1. Turn on the computer. It is plugged into the CONTROL OUTLET.
  2. Turn the ADJUST dial clockwise a very small amount and wait 2 seconds. Repeat this process until the “Switched Outlets” indicator light is off.
  3. Turn on the computer. If the SWITCHED OUTLETS turn off, you’re done.

If the switched outlets never turn off:

  1. Turn off the computer.
  2. Turn the ADJUST dial counterclockwise a very small amount and wait 2 seconds. Repeat this process until the “Switched Outlets” indicator light is off.
  3. Turn on the device that is on the CONTROL OUTLET. If the SWITCHED OUTLETS turn on, you’re done.

Do not force the adjustment dial to turn more than 1 complete turn.

Step 13: The Side Panels

The MT-50 shipped with powder coated cold-rolled steel panels. This worked out excellent in busy public areas, as the panels are extremely hard to damage, and easy to clean with the powder coat.

Here are the specifications for the side and end panels. We had these custom made locally with a metal fabricator. These specifications can also be used with any other material that you choose to use. The steel panels are attached to the main Bosch frame with M5 button head screws and 8mm T-nuts.

Step 14: Tracking Software

Once all the systems are up and working, you will need to install some camera based tracking software.

On the MT-50, we used NuiTeq’s Snowflake Suite. This software supported three PT Grey cameras and offered an easy way to get the cameras stitched and calibrated. You can download a demo of Snowflake Suite at http://nuiteq.com.

Alternatively, there is an excellent open source project called CCV that NUI Group Community has developed. You can check out CCV at http://ccv.nuigroup.com.

This software package is free of charge. Unfortunately, with the camera set up the MT-50 uses, you will not currently be able to use 3 PTGrey cameras with CCV. There are other solutions though, and are quite a bit cheaper. You can have 4 PS3Eye cameras running in the table and will work well with CCV. Modified PS3Eye cameras can be purchased online though Peau Productions http://peauproductions.com.

Within the NUI Group Forums http://nuigroup.com/forums/ you can find lots of information regarding CCV.  

Step 15: MT55 PARTS

 

Part

Description

Part #

Qt

Link

 

Case

Lian Li MicroATX

PC-V351B

1

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811112222

Small form factor case that will fit nicely with other components.

Motherboard

EVGA X58 MicroATX

121-BL-E756-TR

1

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813188051

 

Video Card

EVGA GeForce GTX 470

012-P3-1470-AR

1

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130550

 

Memory

Corsair Dominator 6GB(3x2GB)

CMP6GX3M3A1600C8

1

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820145295&cm_re=corsair_6gb-_-20-145-295-_-Product

 

Processor

Intel i7 930

BX80601930

1

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115225

 

Processor Heatsink

Zalman 120mm

CNPS9900ALED

1

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835118046

 

Hard Drive

Western Digital VelociRaptor 300GB 10,000RPM

WD3000HLFS

2

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136322

Set up with a software RAID1

1394a Card

StarTech 4 port

PCI1394MP

1

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16815158038

Needed for PTGrey Cameras. MUST BE PCI

Optical Drive

Lite-On DVD-RW

iHAS-324-98B

1

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827106334

 

Power Supply

Enermax Revolution85+ 920W

ERV920EWT

1

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817194079

Multiple molex connectors used to power IR lights, fans, as well as the computer.

Operating System

Windows 7 Professional

FQC-00730

1

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16832116756

 

WiFi

Rosewill 802.11 b/g/n

RNX-EasyN1

1

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833166041

 

Bluetooth

Azio USB2.0 adapter

BTD-V201

1

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833340012

 

Internal Fans

Enermax Magma 120mm

UC-MA12

2

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835214001

Used inside computer case.

 

         

Projector

Infocus IN1503

IN1503

1

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824140094

 

120mm Fans

SilenX 120mm

IXP-76-18

6

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835226013

Bottom Panel Fans

120mm Silicone Dampener

Nexus Dampener

SA-120

6

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811996014

Bottom Panel Fans

120mm Fan Filter

bGears Fan Filter

n/a

6

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811995048&cm_re=120mm_fan_filter-_-11-995-048-_-Product

Bottom Panel Fans - Need 6 , this product is a 2 pack, so 3 would be the qty.

120mm Fan Grill

Stainless Steel Fan Grill

n/a

6

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811995045

Bottom Panel Fans - Need 6 grills, this product is a 2 pack, so 3 would be the qty.

80mm Fans

Enermax Magma 80mm

UC-MA8

2

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835214006

Projector Fans

80mm Fan Grill

Rosewill Fan Guard

RFG-080

2

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811988018&cm_re=80mm_fan_grill-_-11-988-018-_-Product

Projector Fans

Cameras

PTGrey Firefly MV

FireFlyMV

3

http://www.ptgrey.com/products/fireflymv/fireflymv_usb_firewire_cmos_camera.asp

Firewire Cameras for tracking.

IR Filters

Thor Labs

 

 

 

 

Camera Lens

Tamron

13FM22IR

3

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/414234-REG/Tamron_13FM22IR_13FM22IR_1_3_2_2mm_F_1_2.html

Wide angle lens

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Firewire Cable 1'

 

 

1

http://www.pacificcable.com/Firewire.htm

Cable for Camera

Firewire Cable 3'

 

 

2

http://www.pacificcable.com/Firewire.htm

Cable for Camera

3 Pin Y Fan Connector

 

 

6

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812189063&nm_mc=OTC-Froogle&cm_mmc=OTC-Froogle-_-Cables-_-Link+Depot+Corp.-_-12189063

Fan Cable Splitter

3 Pin Fan Cable 48"

 

 

4

http://www.svc.com/fc33-48.html

For bottom panel fans

3 Pin Fan Cable 36"

 

 

1

http://www.svc.com/fc33-36.html

For bottom panel fans

3 Pin Fan Cable 24"

 

 

2

http://www.svc.com/fc33-24.html

For bottom panel fans

3 Pin Fan Cable 12"

 

 

4

http://www.svc.com/123to3ex.html

For bottom panel fans

 

 

 

 

 

 

Smart Strip

Bits Limited

SCG3

1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000P1QJXQ/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_1?pf_rd_p=486539851&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B0006PUDQK&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0JK9XX8S1BSMR15QBXYY

7 outlet Switchable power strip

Infrared Lights

Environmental Lights

irrf850-5050-60-reel

3

https://www.environmentallights.com/products/13104/irrf850-5050-60-reel

3 Packages

Mirror

First Surface Mirros

 

 

http://www.firstsurfacemirrors.com/

1/8” Thick 8”x10” First Surface Glass Mirro

 

 

 

 

 

 

2 Gang Square Metal Box – Deep

 

 

1

http://www.lowes.com/pd_70965-427-8232_4294821892_4294937087_?productId=3129407&Ns=p_product_prd_lis_ord_nbr|0||p_product_quantity_sold|1&pl=1&currentURL=/pl_Electrical%2BBox_4294821892_4294937087_%3FNs%3Dp_product_prd_lis_ord_nbr|0||p_product_quantity_sold|1

For splicing low voltage wiring.

2 Gang Square Metal Cover

 

 

1

http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?partNumber=55761-427-8752&langId=-1&storeId=10151&productId=3129183&catalogId=10051&cmRelshp=rel&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1

Cover for Deep Box

4” Square Electrical Box 2 Gang

 

 

1

http://www.lowes.com/pd_72466-53911-2G4D1234-10L_4294821892_4294937087_?productId=3318584&Ns=p_product_prd_lis_ord_nbr|0||p_product_quantity_sold|1&pl=1&currentURL=/pl_Electrical%2BBox_4294821892_4294937087_%3FNs%3Dp_product_prd_lis_ord_nbr|0||p_product_quantity_sold|1%26page%3D13

For Faceplate with Input/output connectors & power switch.

Single Gang Handy Box

 

 

2

http://www.lowes.com/pd_70967-427-8660_4294821892_4294937087_?productId=1098497&Ns=p_product_prd_lis_ord_nbr|0||p_product_quantity_sold|1&pl=1&currentURL=/pl_Electrical%2BBox_4294821892_4294937087_%3FNs%3Dp_product_prd_lis_ord_nbr|0||p_product_quantity_sold|1

For 120V Receptacle & C14 power inlet.

SO Cable

12 inches

 

 

Old power cords, old vacuum cords. Or Lowes/Home Depot.

This is used to go between C14 inlet and the receptacle, each in a different handy box.

Romex Connector

½ inch

 

2

 

For Single Gang Handy Boxes

15Amp Receptacle

 

 

1

http://www.lowes.com/pd_72598-334-CR15GY-SP-L_0__?productId=1099243&Ntt=15amp+receptacle&pl=1&currentURL=/pl__0__s%3FNtt%3D15amp%2Breceptacle

For one Handy box

Single Gang Receptacle Cover

 

 

1

http://www.lowes.com/pd_70955-427-864X_4294821893+4294965809_4294937087_?productId=3129399&Ns=p_product_prd_lis_ord_nbr|0||p_product_quantity_sold|1&pl=1&currentURL=/pl__4294821893%2B4294965809_4294937087_%3FNs%3Dp_product_prd_lis_ord_nbr|0||p_product_quantity_sold|1&facetInfo=Metal

Receptacle Cover

C14 Power Inlet

Furutech

FI-10 Gold 15A IEC Chassis Inlet

1

http://www.revolutionpower.com/p/Furutech+FI-10+Gold+15A+IEC+Chassis+Inlet/161/

Main Power Inlet

 

 

 

 

 

 

Power Faceplate

Single Gang Stainless w/C14 cutout

see drawings

 

http://www.datapro.net

C14 Cutout on Single Gang Stainless plate

Input/Output Faceplate

Double Gang Stainless

see drawings

 

http://www.datapro.net

Custom Cutout w/ multiple cuts

M4 Screws

Screws for Fans

 

24

Hardware Store

Black Buttonhead 16mm

M4 Nuts

for Fans

 

24

Hardware Store

 

M4 Lock Washers

for Fans

 

24

Hardware Store

 

M5 Screws

for Panels

 

60

Hardware Store

Black Buttonhead 12mm

M4 Screws

for Projector

 

3

Hardware Store

Countersunk 16mm

Nylon Spacers

for Projector

 

3

Hardware Store

¼” thick, inside diamter large enough for M4 screw

Rubber Mastic

Glass Mantle

3M 2228

4 rolls

Hardware Store

Black rubber mastic that glass sits on.


Step 16: BOSCH ALUMINUM PIECES

 

Part Number

Description

Qty

Part Letter

Special Desc.

3842992897

45x45R -/- Len: 673.1mm (26.5)

4

A

Main Frame

8981992026

45x45 -/- Len: 1257.3mm (49.5)

3

B

Main Frame

8981992026

45x45 -/- Len: 1257.3mm (49.5)

1

C

Main Frame

8981992026

45x45 -/- Len: 774.7mm (30.5)

4

D

Main Frame

3842523561

45x45 gusset with fasteners

16

E

 

3842523570

45x90 gusset with fasteners

4

F

 

3842992888

20x20 -/- Len: 584.2mm (23)

4

G

Main Frame, holds lighting rig

3842990720

30x30 -/- Len: 584.2mm (23)

2

H

Main Frame, holds projector plate

3842992888

20x20 -/- Len: 203.2mm (8)

4

I

Lighting Rig Support

3842992891

20x40 -/- Len: 801.69mm (31.56)

2

J

Lighting Rig

3842992891

20x40 -/- Len: 1016mm (40)

1

K

Lighting Rig

3842992891

20x40 -/- Len: 1282.7mm (50.5)

1

L

Camera Rig

3842992888

20x20 -/- Len: 774.7mm (30.5)

2

M

Camera Rig

3842992888

20x20 -/- Len: 152.4mm (6)

4

N

Mirror Turret

3842992888

20x20 -/- Len: 438.2mm (17.25)

2

O

Mirror Rig/45degree cuts on each end

3842992888

20x20 -/- Len: 285.6mm (11.24)

2

P

Mirror Rig/45degree cuts on each end

3842517243

20x20 end cap black

4

 

Caps for Mirror Turrets

3842535626

MITERED CORNER CONN 6MM

4

 

Connectors for Mirror Rig

3842992888

20x20 -/- Len: 774.7mm (30.5)

4

Q

Bottom mid rig(computer, mirror)

3842992888

20x20 -/- Len: 403.2mm (15.87)

3

R

Center for Mid Rig

3842530283

T-NUT 10MM M5

100

 

 

3842523511

20x20 gusset with fasteners

100

S

 

3842523528

30x30 gusset with fasteners 8-8

10

T

 

M4X12SHCSZ

M4X12 Socket Head Cap Screw Zinc

40

 

 

3842530281

T-NUT 10MM M4

40

 

 

3842541230

80mm caster, ESD, lockable

4

U

 


Comments

author
SandraA37 made it!(author)2016-03-23

would it be possible to do this with it? https://youtu.be/P6-0IGZPUKc

author
MrMap made it!(author)2015-11-19

Hi there, it me again. After apply every thing, i got blobs of my fingers. But there is a serious problem: the movement image on the screen ( white images) also create blobs which cause everything went crazy. Can you give me some suggest to fix this problem. Thanks you again!

author
MrMap made it!(author)2015-07-27

Can anyone tell me which kind of rear film that you use? I found that there are several kind which are transparent, dark, gray, .... Which one should be the best for this project? And you also can tell me the website to buy it? Thanks very much!!! I really need this.

author
multitouch made it!(author)2015-07-28

Hello MrMap, the rear film used in these systems was SpyeSmoke by Spyeglass. This film worked out great to reduce projector hot spotting - which could occur with the very short throw range of the projector and the first surface mirror. The folks at Spyeglass are great and are very knowledgeable - there may be a newer film that works even better than the SpyeSmoke by now. www.spyeglass.com

author
Cheese14523 made it!(author)2013-11-05

How much does it all cost? Sorry, I do not have the time to open each link and add accordingly.

author
Cheese14523 made it!(author)2015-03-18

well...thanks...i built it and it cost

author
multitouch made it!(author)2015-07-28

I'm sorry we didn't get back to you sooner! I hope your project came along, we'd love to see what you've come up with. We have not built any projection based hardware for quite a while, and the pricing has likely changed quite a bit. The components are also probably out of date, so many of the electronics would likely need to be changed to something current.

author
multitouch made it!(author)2013-10-22

Technocraz.Thanks for your question. The software shown in the video was built with the GestureWorks multitouch software framwork. http://www.gestureworks.com

author
technocraz made it!(author)2013-10-22

What about the Software? Was it omni touch at that time of your video? Thx

author
multitouch made it!(author)2013-10-06

Camtron. It has been some time since we priced all of the components. The aluminum material is fairly pricey. The project materials would cost between $7-$9K. A lot of folks have moved over to IR touch overlays since they are less expensive and you can use an LCD display instead of a projector (PQLabs is a manufacturer.) There are a number of differences, to numerous to go into, but that might be a more cost effective solution.

author
camtron77 made it!(author)2013-10-04

I am in the Civil Air Patrol and would love to build this for our office. About how much money dose this project cost all together.
Thank you
Don

author
awesome3612 made it!(author)2013-10-04

Are you trolling? Almost every military branch has this stuff in the US!

author
oconnell.josh made it!(author)2013-10-05

um, no. No they dont

author
BJMN made it!(author)2013-09-30

I was wondering if you could provide more details about the glass used. Do you know the supplier? Or, do you know the specs used to order the glass with the micro-etching? I work for a glass company, and could conceivably have it re-created (unless we happened to supply it in the first place...) :)

author
multitouch made it!(author)2013-09-30

We used an acid etched glass from Sevasa from their HPT series. The glass thickness on this particular unit was 10mm thick. You can check it out here: http://www.sevasa.com/en/technologics-2/products/electronics

author
Tachyon made it!(author)2013-09-30

Wow, very nicely documented. I also have to commend the company for not only opening this up for the Open Exhibits initiative but to go over and above that and create such a solid Instructable is amazing. Well done.

One question. In looking at the PT Grey Firefly cameras I notice that the Instructable doesn't say anywhere that I can find which version of that camera is used. There are over a dozen configuration for that camera.
In looking at the data sheet and comparing it to the Instructable I was able to narrow it down to the model FFMV-03M2M/C series but I'd like to know for sure. Also would it be the B/W or the Colour version?

Anyway, thanks again for posting.

author
multitouch made it!(author)2013-09-30

You were correct on the camera, it is the FFMV-03M2M-CS. We used the B/W version. These cameras are Firewire based, but PT grey and computer hardware in general has changed quite a bit since we were producing these - there may be faster alternatives out there now (as far as frame rate go). Thank you for checking out our Instructable!

author
umursengul made it!(author)2013-09-29

thank you!

author
kraftmatic made it!(author)2013-09-28

So cool that you make this available for everyone. Great work.

author
dunnos made it!(author)2013-09-28

I love it! Looks very sleek. Good job!

author
tinker234 made it!(author)2011-08-23

ow nice job might send a link to freind of mine hey could i make this into a desk

author
arianen made it!(author)2011-04-04

Very informative instructable. But if you don't mind me asking, how much would this multitouch rig approximately cost?

author
multitouch made it!(author)2011-04-05

The price with the parts listed at the time the table was being produced was between 12-16k. We sourced and used the toughest materials available.

There are many interchangeable parts within the system that can be purchased for less. You can find some of these throughout the instructable.

author
josheggleston made it!(author)2011-04-01

VERY NICE!!!! I would of liked more pictures of the finished project.

author
multitouch made it!(author)2011-04-05

Here are a few more pictures of the completed table. You might also want to look at our Flickr page (flickr/ideum) as a number of our recent exhibits featured the MT50 multitouch table.

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