Introduction: DIY Modular Toolbox
The toolbox consist of 3 big parts, the front protector, de back protector and the wooden plates for fixating the tools:
The front protector has 2 purposes.
1. When you are transporting your tools it is used to protect the tools and keep them all together, it also gives a nice look to the toolbox and you can places your small tools in the pockets.
2. When you remove the front protector from the toolbox it can be used as a tool belt for when you are working, this is done by attaching the carrying strap to the metal rings and wearing it around your waste.
The back protector also has 2 purposes:
1. When you are transporting your tools it is used to protect the tools and keep them all together.
2. In the 6 holes with metal rings as reinforcement on the back you can attach 2 hooks so it is possible to attach the toolbox to your bike to make transportation easier.
1. The pegboards are used to fixate the tools, by using elastic bands and hooks. The hooks are placed on both sides of a tool through the holes of the board and over an elastic band. This way, the tools are not able to move anymore. You can places different tools on the same elastic band and variate in the number of elastic bands you use per plate depending on the size of your tools.
2. Elastic loops are placed (with a smaller version of the hooks) on the side of the plates in between the elastic bands, these loops are used to attach the plates to each other by putting metal bars through alternating loops of two sequential plates. You have two options here:
1.Make a book format by attaching them like this: (picture) this way you can browse to your tools as if you are reading a book, in this concept the tools can be placed on both sides of the pegboards.
2.Make a wave format by attaching the plates like this: (picture) This way you get an overview of all your tools by laying them next to each other. in this prototype tools can be places only on one side of the pegboards.
To make easy transportation possible, nylon bands are used to close up all the plates. The nylon bands are put through the gaps where the bars are still accessible. With a buckle they are fastened and tightened, this way the carrying handle can be attached, used to carry it on your shoulder, and makes it easy to carry it around by foot. The bike hooks on the bag make cycling possible.
Step 1: Supplies
Plastic fabric like PVC sheets 2m x 1,50m
1 Bobbin black thread
Peg Board 122 x 61 x 0,3 cm
Elastic nylon bands 25m (minimum 2 colours but you can choose more if you want)
6 bolts and 6 nuts M3
2 bike hooks (you can reuse some from an old bike bag)
Iron wire with a coating
2 metal semi circles
--> Optional: Spray paint
Step 2: Cut the Pegboards
Cut the Pegboards in six pieces of 30 x 40 cm (sometimes you can ask in the store to do it for you).
Step 3: Elastic Bands
Take one color of elastic band and cut 2 pieces of 30 cm and 2 pieces of 11 cm to make one big band.
For one tool plate you need 4 long elastic bands.
In the other color you one piece of 13cm to make a small elastic band.
For one tool plate you need 10 small elastic bands (6 regular and 4 that are closed on one side).
Step 4: Patterns Front and Back Protector
Draw your patterns for your back and front protector on the pattern paper and cut out with scissors.
Make sure you draw all the lines that are on the pattern:
--> A black dotted line is a cutting line
--> A black full line is a folding line
--> A Red full line is a stitching line
Step 5: Cut the Fabric
Spread your fabric with the good side at the top and attach the patterns on the fabric with pins.
Cut out all the patterns as many times as said on each piece.
Note: Your fabric will always have 2 different sides, a good side and a back.
We will refer to it as the good side and the bad side. Make sure you pay attention to this when sewing!
Step 6: Front Protector: Pockets
Take all pieces B, D and E, fold on the full black line, fastened with pins and sew them on the red line with the bad sides on top of each other.
Note: Always use a straight stitch for everything except zig zagging.
Step 7: Front Protector: Pockets
After that, place them on the right spot on one of sheets A and sew them on the same path as done before. Make sure that the edges are properly sewed because that are the weakest links.
Step 8: Front Protector: Loops
Sew the 2 pieces of C together with the leather on the outside. Sew it on the front panel and make 3 loops. The parts between the loops need to be extra fastened by making a cross.
Step 9: Front Protector: Close Pockets
Place E right above the 2 lower pockets with the leather side of E on A. Sew it on the long side and fold it so the pocket is closed. Stitch 2 small lines at both ends so the pocket stays closed. Make 2 holes in each corner of E and put buttons in the holes, do this also on B for the bottom side of the button.
Step 10: Front Protector: Handles
Sew 2 times 2 pieces of F together with the soft side on top of each other, leave a short side open and turn it inside out. Fold it around the metal semi-circle and sew it in both corners of sheet A.
Step 11: Front Protector: Backside
Take 2 other A sheets and place 2 small elastic bands on the good side like shown on the illustration. Sew on the red line, make sure it is probably fastened because it carries a lot of the weight. Do this for both sheets.
Step 12: Front Protector: Finish
Take the A sheet with the pockets and one of the two A sheets you just made and put them on top of each other with the good sides against each other. Sew at 1 cm from the border. Leave the bottom open and turn it inside out. Fold 1 cm from the bottom inwards and place 3 small elastics like shown on the picture. Close up the bottom by sewing from 1 cm from the border, do this all around the square to make a border all around the sheets.
Step 13: Back Protector
Back panel: take the other A sheet with the elastics and place it on the fourth A sheet with the good sides inwards. Sew them together at 1 cm from the border but leave the bottom open and turn it inside out. Put one of the Pegboards inside of the sheet and fold 1 cm from the bottom to the inside. Place 3 elastic bands and close up by sewing from 1 cm of the border, do this all around the sheet to make a border.
Step 14: Back Protector
Place the bike hooks to determine where you have to make holes. Do this with the gauge rod and make the holes firm by putting a metal ring in it. Attach the bike hooks with the bolts and nuts.
Step 15: Make the Hooks
Make the small and big hooks bij using a cutter tongue and folding pliers.
Step 16: Nylon Bands
Cut the following lengths of the nylon band:
→ 85 cm
→ 10 cm
→ 18 cm
→ 2 x 42 cm
→ 2 x 25 cm
Step 17: Nylon Bands
Make sure that the end of the fabric doesn't unravel bij zig zagging the ends.
Attach a fastener at one end of the pieces of 42 cm and 18cm. Fold the piece of 10 cm in the middle and sew the ends at 0.5cm from the edge. Turn it inside out, this goes around the 85cm piece.
Step 18: Slim the Nylon
Make in the middle of the 25cm band a 5 cm area that is folded in two and sew it 5 cm.
Make a loop of this band and attach it to a 42 cm piece.
Step 19: Bag Carrier
Sew G en H to each other with leather side against each other. Turn inside out and fill up with soft fabric. Give it a border by stitching 1 cm from the edge all around the piece. Attach I to the top so you can put it over the nylon band
Step 20: Make the Bars.
Cut the metal bars at 40 cm length with a small metal cutter, you can also saw it but than you have to make sure the edges are probably finished. You can paint your bars with spray paint to give them a nice finish but that’s optional.
Step 21: Assemblee
Place small and big elastics on the pegboards like shown in the picture, the small elastics are fixed with the small green hooks.
Place your tools on the plates and use the big green hooks and elastic bands to fix them on the plates
Attatch the plates together by putting bars trough the loops the way you want.
Close up with the nylon bands and you are ready to go!
Step 22: Use
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