Step 9: Finished Product

After the floors dry and the molding put on and painted (if needed) you can bring your stuff back in and your done.
thanks to your instructions I completed my own plywood floor this weekend!
<p>Such a lovely flooring that you have shown here.I liked your instruction. Its look like a good professional work as its finishing and neatness makes it look like a proficient deed.I am also in this trade provides amazing flooring options with certified contractors for your needs.Thanks for nice article.</p>
We've done this in our master bedroom, walk-through closet, and sewing room, and it looks great (although I've managed to ding it here and there). Our plan is to cover it with a more permanent flooring this year, but if we can't, it will still look good next year.
That's our plan too. You should put up some pictures!
Hi there. I LOVE RUSTIC..DISTRESSED STUFF this is great. Can I dobthis on my cincrete floor? Im assuming no nails..just glue? And I like dark. Thanks so much. I can show you a picture if my family room. Ive already pulled up carpet..pad..tackboard. I cannot afford much so looking for ways.
<p>I liked your article on plywood flooring that you have shared here.Really,you have done all things in a very methodical way.All your hardwork is lovely and impressive that can add an elegant and personalized touch to your home.Thanks for great project. </p>
<p>How are the floors holding up after all this time?</p>
<p>Hi,</p><p>This looks great, I am thinking of doing this in an empty room I am planning on turning into a small den, but I think I will use a one step polyurethane sealant with stain to save time and money, or I may just go with a clear one. I found some wonderful colors at Home Depot. Did you use nails or screws to put this down with?</p>
Nails, I think screws would have split up the plywood (it was really thin plywood) and they would have also taken forever.
<p>I use ring nails on plywood sub-floors, to ensure that they will stay down. I also stagger the joints longitudinally. These are for floors that are to be covered. I had never thought of staining and/or using a clear polyurethane as an exposed finish -- good idea!</p>
<p>what color is the stain you used??</p>
i like this i wonder if i could use old pallets there a dime a dozen around where i live
You should. And, it will be kinda of a cool look.
Great looking job. We're doing our bedroom now, only difference is we're going with Bamboo Hardwood. Not knowing the cost of your plywood, our hardwood for a 12X14 room came to $723. with enough left over to do the bathroom if I don't screw up to many pieces.I really like to look of the plywood and may try to convince the wife to go that way in the kitchen, though she has her heart set on cork. Once again I think your job came out looking fantastic.
<p>723.00 for a 12 x 14 room? YIKES! How is that &quot;saving&quot; anything? That's not a cheaper alternative. </p>
Thanks!<br><br>The plywood was around just under $11.00/sheet. The total cost of everything was around $400 (and I mean everything). I really liked the bamboo flooring I saw when I was doing research but in the end I went for the cheapest solution(or next to cheapest solution as the cheapest would have been simply sealing and painting the subfloor). <br><br>Good luck with the bamboo and post pictures when you are done as i'm really interested in how it works out.
<p>I have bamboo and I hate it!!! It's pretty as long as you just look at it but don't walk on it! What you did with plywood I think is way better.</p>
<p>Is there a period of time that you would have to evacuate your home due to the odor and fumes from the polyurethane?</p>
Hey, sorry to be so long in getting back to you, I was buried with work. <br> <br>Like you, I was really worried about the edges lining up as I had to make many cuts with the circular saw. I was careful and they lined up very well with no problem. You dont need to use any wood filler between the gaps because you will be then put down the polyurethane. The polyurethane gets into the cracks and, as its liquid, rises to its own level, fills in the gaps and coats the entire floor, sealing it and protecting it (hope that makes sense). <br> <br>I used nails because the hardwood flooring in the rest of the house had nails and I used a nail pattern that was similar to the more traditional hardwood floors in the rest of the house. My thinking was that screws would be overkill, take longer, and might split up the plywood (its very thin plywood). <br> <br>Hope this is helpful to you and feel free to ask me anything else, i'll try to be quicker in responding.
There were no issues with pieces lining up exactly so you don't stub your foot? No gaps in between pieces at all, or did you use a filler? Did you use nails, or screws? I thought screws were the way to go, or is that for decking??? (I'm full of questions). Thanks and I think it looks great.
I know I'm way late to this party, but I was wondering since you can cut them into strips making them look similar to the expensive hardwood flooring, could you even stain it? The darker hardwood is more expensive so I figured unless that would somehow conflict with the sealer?
Absolutely you could do that - both the cutting them into strips and staining them.<br><br>Looking back I probably would have cut them into squares and alternate the grain but I was worried about the straightness of my saw cuts. I should not have worried as my cuts were pretty straight ;-)<br><br>Doing it as you suggest you would have to take care with your cuts but otherwise it would work fine and I think it would look very good.<br><br>The floor has worn very well and it was the cheapest floor we could do next to just painting the subfloor. The nice thing about the thin plywood thatmI used is that later on when I can afford nicer traditional hardwood floors I can put them right over top of these.<br><br>This project worked out great for us! if you decide to droit post here with pictures so I can see and good luck!
Thanks so much for sharing this post! I have been looking into <a href="http://www.kamloopscarpetwarehouse.ca/en/" rel="nofollow">flooring kamloops</a> and what they would help me with and if I could get a floor like this! I really love how it looks! Can you tell me where to find more information like this? Thanks!
Awesome post! This seems like such a great way to do <a href="http://www.carpetandflooring.com" rel="nofollow">hardwood flooring</a>. It looks amazing and doesn't seem like it would be that hard to do.
Thank you for sharing this information on how to install plywood floors. Do you know of any good <a href="http://www.unitedflooring.ca" rel="nofollow">flooring companies in kamloops</a> that could help me do this? Thanks!
Wow, I hadnt even thought of this. I'll have to tell my friends at <a href="http://mountainviewflooring.info" rel="nofollow">flooring ogden</a>.
That is plywood? It looks great! My friends are looking for a cheap way to update their <a href="http://www.kamloopscarpetwarehouse.ca/en/" rel="nofollow">flooring in Kamloops</a> and I think I have to show them this. I would have never thought to use plywood. Very good instructable, thanks for sharing!
This will be great. I can probably put down some <a href="http://www.walthamfloorcare.com" rel="nofollow">flooring</a> in my house in needham ma.
Fantastic instructable. I've been looking for a solution like this for a while for my home in <a href="http://www.toptenhardwoodfloors.com/services/" rel="nofollow">Boston. Hardwood floor installation</a> always seemed tricky to me. Thanks for these tips.
Thanks for posting this, I really like this idea. We've been wanting to do some <a href="http://www.timbertown.ca" rel="nofollow">flooring in Calgary</a>. I will have to try this out, I know my wife would love it.
I really like what you have done with your <a href="http://www.flooring2day.com" rel="nofollow">flooring</a>! I have been thinking about putting new floors in my office, and I would love to do something like this. Hopefully I can get all of the supplies that I need tonight. Thanks for the great guide.
Thanks for this article. If you need any more help, contact <br> <br>http://www.integrty-floors.com
I noticed that you said that you used finishing nails to secure the plywood sheets to the sub-floor. Did you use any particular pattern when securing the plywood to the sub-floor, and did you countersink and fill each nail head? If you did countersink and fill each nail head. What kind of filler material did you use, and did you use standard nails or a pnumatic nailer?
The nail pattern I used mimics the pattern that wold have been used if the floors were traditional strip flooring. The nails blend right in to the flooring and when you do see them it's not at all jarring to the eye. <br><br>I did not countersink or fill the nail-heads. I did use a nail set to punch the nails down just below the level of the floor. The floor sealant then covers over the nail (I used four coats). <br><br>To the nail in the nails I used a hammer.
is there a way to get a darker richer color
Yes, absolutely. You could stain the floor before putting on the sealant. If I was not on a tight budget and under tight time contraints I might have done just that.
I don't have much experience with flooring. Were you able to 'get-away' with using 5- mm plywood instead of 1cm ( I defer to your metric dimensions), because you already had a stable subfloor over the flooring joists? ( I read the rest of the blog and I didn't see the issue brought up.)
The answer is yes. The thin plywood we got was only sold in the 5mm thickness (hence the metric measurement instead of something more standard). <br><br>I could have used something thicker but I wanted to be able to install more traditional wood flooring right overtop later on down the road. Plus the 5mm was cheap and looked good ;-)<br>
I always replace the molding after I've finished the floor. I find it a lot easier to touch up the paint on the molding, than to apply the floor finish right up to the edge, cleanly.
You know now that I think about it and look back at the pictures that is the way we did it as well (you can see the shine from the polyurethane in some of the pics. I'll edit the steps to reflect. Thanks for t the comment.
just had to add...great job, great steps too...i di this in my mobile home 12 years ago...still looks and wears great...just every 2 years or so i re-scuff and re-poly a room...and it's great on the feet and the allergies!!!<br>
I was just re-reading through the comments (i'm trying to answer them all) and reread yours again. Awesome point about re-applying the poly every so often. It's a great idea and would obviously really help. I will definitly do this. Great to hear how long this kind of floor can last!
btw...even put it in the bathroom...very durable in there too...even stained it a driftwood color for a different look in there!<br>
Looks good. Always wondered how finished ply would look as flooring. I thought if I were to do this I would cut the sheets in a star design in the center of the room. A lot of extra work though. Not needed in a bedroom, half of the design would be hidden. Nice work.
I would love to see your star design completed one day.
Wow! I am surprised to see how great floors look with plywood. Thank you for posting. Instead of spending a lot of money in expensive flooring anyone can spend much less in plywood and cover a large area. It saves time and money. Kudos!
Thanks so much, I have been really happy that this has been so well received.
I just came across this...and I think it is an awesome idea...I have carpet right now...but under the carpet is concrete..will this process still work?...plz let me know..because I am so ready to pull this carpet up and do this projects. Thxs!
Read down through the comments - there is a big discussion on this. I don't have concrete so don't have experience but I remember a lot of good comments regarding just this question.

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