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This is a powerful pvc bow that has a draw weight of 75+ lbs. Some of the stuff needed is optional but to ensure durability and power I recommend using everything in this instructible. **I am not responsible for any damage or injury done to property or your self**

1" pvc (5 ft)
1/2" pvc (5 ft)
2 fiberglass sign posts
Lost of tape
Arrows (optional)
7 ft of string
Broadhead (optional)

Thanks to
Pucksurfer

Step 1: Fiberglass Reinforcement

Take your fiberglass sign markers. Amd measure the to the same size as the 1/2 pvc tube then force inside. Next take anything to fill the hole so the fiberglass doesn't riddle around then apply glue. This is the easiest part of the build. But your measurements must be precise.

Step 2: Fiberglass Spine Placed in Body

Next take the 1/2 pvc with fiberglass inside and make a tire looking thing on both ends. This is so when you force the 1/2 pvc In to the 1" pvc, it is a nice snug fit. Make sure it is tight enough it doesn't move but not to tight that it can't come back out. Make sure there is tape on the ends so that the fiberglass does not fall out. (even though it will be really hard for it to without it)

Step 3: Cutting Notch for String

Take a saw of any kind and cut two slits next to each other and make them as close to the end as possible but they CANNOT CUT into the 1/2" pvc!!! that will weaken your bow. Next take one end and cut the top half you sawed into. Sand all of the places you cut to ensure your string doesn't get snagged.

Step 4: Stringing the Bow

Tie a normal double knot on the end that hasn't been cut on the side. That is your permanent knot and should only be removed for changing of string. Make a move able knot for the other end. This will be on the other side so u can unstring and string the bow for longevity and power reserve.

Step 5: Adding More Fiberglass

I have this fiberglass Laying around from another bow. This is added to the handle to ensure the pvc doesn't snap and so it retains it's shape when not in use. (if you don't have any flat fiberglass I would recommend buying another sign markers and cut it in half then apply to handle)

Step 6: Arrow Rest

The arrow rest is a toothbrush. This allows the vains to easily slide through with minimal damage. Also just made a flip down arrow rest that works really well!


I had a lot of fun making this bow as this is first. Thanks to pucksurfer as he gave me the idea to make a step by step and share with everyone this wonderful bow. I will have more on shooting it later as this one is a little different than my other one. Also after you have made the bow leave it overnight strung. This will give it it's natural bow and make it easier to string. After that one night of leaving it strung do not leave it that way. Thanks for reading and have a blessed day and good luck!

Thanks to
Pucksurfer

Step 7: After 2 Weeks!

After 2 gruling weeks... (even though this has only been up for a few days, I had put this instructible up later) I have managed to push it to the limits and figure out what it can and cannot do. Overall this is a great weapon for survival situation and can easily kill small and medium game. I will go over pros and cons of this deadly weapon.

PROS:
light, and easy to carry only about 5 lb.

Quiet, this is a crazy quiet bow, I don't know if it's the pvc that dampens the sound or what but it is really quiet.

Accurate, out to about 50 yds. Past that you can still hit but get arrow drift.

Unstringable, (if that's a word??) but can be unstrung to save power!

Heavy draw (could go either way depends on the archer)

Cheap to make only $12

Can shoot 180 fps with 500 grain arrows.

Weather proof because of the plastic pvc.

CONS:
BIG, really tall... That's all i got to say about that.

Draw weight could be too heavy

On small game over penertration almost always happens... Even with rubber blunts.

Not a toy

Makes for storing it a hassle because like I said it's to big

REVIEW:

All in all I can't be more than happy with this bow. To be made out of pvc it is a really powerful weapon. I have killed 5 rabbits over the course of the two weeks (farmer request) and I used the rubber blunts and g5 sgh. The g5 penetrated all the way through 3 rabbits. Then I tried the rubber blunts and they too penetrated all the way through. I was shooting from a distance of about 15 feet for all of them and penetration through the animal happened with all broadhead,amy suggestions?? I hunt for food and the farmer allows me to keep the rabbits... For all u hunter haters lol, but anyways a really powerful weapon and pretty accurate. I would definitely love to try this on larger game but that isn't till next time. Please ask any questions, I will be happy to answer them, and don't mind my grammar. And as always stay safe and be rigorous!!!
<p>I've made my own PVC bow in a similar fashion, but I followed the Backyard Bowyer with his no heat PVC bow. The two 48 inch fibre glass rods are cut down in different lengths so it gives a better tiller/bend to the bow. They are taped together so the middles of all the lengths line up (12/18/30/36). The fibre glass rods bundle looks like the leaf springs on the suspension of a car. Of course, it won't be as strong in draw weight, but the tension and loose should be better for the more &quot;even&quot; force distribution.</p>
Yes I have ever noticed that. My other pvc bow was not the most accurate due to what a guy said uneven force distribution. Also since the arrow doesn't not go straight through the body or has a cut out on the side u would have to have the archers paradox happen. But I have made it that I move my string over to the right and now the arrow goes straight as if it were cut out on the side like a compound... I don't know wat the cut out is called tho??
I think it's called a &quot;cut away&quot; so pretty close and besides it's clear what you mean. Oh and please don't get me wrong, I like your instructable especially as it's way better than any I've made, lol, i still have to make one so you are way ahead of me there!
If you do make one please show me some pics and tell me how you like it. Also the pull of this is amazing to be pvc. I think you will be happy with how it will turn out! Good luck and blessings to you.
<p>i made one without the fiber glass and I would srsly prefer it over yours </p><p>Because 75+lb is a bit overwhelming for some, though mine has a 60+lb draw it is easier to use but if one can handle it go for 75+lb if u want lighter pull just take out the fiberglass. All in all ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ Ether way </p><p>GREAT BOW MAN! I LOVE IT!</p>
<p>The archers paradox is overcome with proper technique and form. For example: it is almost impossible to shoot a long bow with precision and accuracy without canting. </p>
<p>you did a fantastic job here, both the bow and the instrucable. Some things to remind to add in your instructions that I recommend are, that the bow string will be roughly 3inches shorter than the full measure of the bow, and that one should not use great stuff or sand to fill the pvc. </p><p>Great stuff not only will take almost 24 hours to properly cure, but even worse will start to detieriate and powderize inside the bow the longer and more frequently you shoot. </p><p>Sand will inevitably either settle after extended periods of storage,and if swish all around inside the bow nocking reliability and precision out of the picture. </p><p>Almost forgot something, the distance between the bow's body and the string should be in the ball park of 7 inches apart. Less and more by too much will drastically change the poundage and precision. </p><p>Do not take this reply as rude, rather as a compliment. It was your instuctable to motivated me to finally try making a PVC bow. I started by making a bow with 2 markers and 1/2 inch pvc at 6 feet, with paracord for string. It was thrilling to put it all together and then take her out to the range and test. That, my first bow was fun, but wouldn't be able to kill anything even at 5 yards. However, for teaching youths, or new comers it was fun.</p><p>Then, today, I picked up some more supplies. Bringing all supplies invested to a grand total of about 28 dollars. Definately going to be the cheapest bow I have had the pleasure of atuning.</p><p>I used 4 driveway markers, 2 @ 6' long and 2' @ 4' long.</p><p>1&quot; PVC @ 6' long</p><p>2 pieces of 1/2&quot; PVC 3&quot; long</p><p>2 end caps</p><p>electrical tape</p><p>around 67&quot; of Paracord</p><p>Final result: one 6 foot long, 43 and half pound pull, PVC longbow. </p><p>I am still working on how to quiet her down after release and how to strengthen the first bow to something hunting worthy without stepping up to 1 inch pipe. The research and construction is exileriating. The rewards to come from bringing her out into the field to continue to teach and hunt, priceless. </p><p>Thank you.God Bless,</p><p>Truth</p>
<p>I didn't see anything wrong with it, </p><p>Thought it was perty good ac</p>
<p>I've been looking to build one with my my dad, but didn't know how to </p><p>So i started searching on how to make one that I could use to hunt with, and shoot targets with and I stumbled upon this just recently. Good info, haven't got around to making one yet but plan to in the future. Thanks for the info though! ?</p>
Looks cool must try this, but a word of caution, while handling that fibreglass wear gloves AND EYE PROTECTION, that stuff splinters and is evil
<p>LMAO ironic that I should read this comment only after having lived through thee &quot;what the hell is cutting up the inside of hand &quot; moment when making my bow. Lol your comment should be first on this list.</p>
Ok i haven't cut any fiberglass but I will put that In There, thanks.
<p>How do you make the &quot;tire looking thing&quot; ?</p>
<p>Would it not be better to use a heat gun to flatten out the two ends after you sleeve the 1/2 pvc inside the 1&quot;? </p>
awesome bow! can anyone tell me what kind of string was used?
<p>Dude I need to try this. LEWL!</p>
<p>Dude, everybody chill. This guy did great. I think that if you are going to criticize him, then at least make one yourself and see how hard it is. INSULTING HIM IS NOT DOING ANYBODY ANY GOOD</p>
I would like to know what the blue stuff you used for the fiberglass rods
It is a pool noodle that I cut a chunk off of
thank you I'm going to make this
I was also wondering how much does it cost you to make this overall
Cost me $12.86 exactly without arrows and btoadheads.
Using lego omg! You are awesome
Lol thax man!
this is a great instructable you could try making wodden dowel arrows with a hand sharpened tip maybe a four pronged tip so it sticks instead of going straight through so you can save more meat
<p>this is amazing :)</p>
Lol thanks
doesn't the 1/2&quot; pvc need to be shorter in order to cut 1&quot; for string?
Yes mine is and that looks really good!
fun cheap bow
<p>Looks like you did a good job, I follow quite a few people that make pvc bows. The pass through is a good thing from a hunting perspective, makes for a cleaner kill. Well done, will have to try it out.</p>
I am ok with a pass through but it makes it harder for me to find my arrow.
<p>I'd like to see a bow made up to the draw poundage of medieval and earlier bows...... 100 pounds..... maybe up to 150 pounds pull. But I guess our puny modern arms would have problems handling something like that. The penetration capabilities of those old bows must have been unimaginable !</p>
Somebody call Hanz and Franz!
The backyardbowyer makes those kind of bows but to make that kind of poundage you need lots of pvc and your pvc must be bend treated before you apply the string.
by draw weight, what exactly do you mean?
This is the amount of force, in poundage to pull the bow back to its designated length.
Well then it should be measured in newtons, because the newton is the unit for force. Pounds, kilos, stone, they are all units of mass, not force
F=M&times;A. Someone using a bow doesn't look for how much force the bow creates, they look at how hard it is to create that force. if the &quot;draw weight&quot; is #75 that tells a person whether or not they would even be able to pull that sucker. it's also been measured in weight for hundreds of years because finding the mass of the equation is easier to find than acceleration. In which you would have to have equipment (not invented back in the day), or the know-how to do it manually. and I'm pretty sure the Indians didn't have that. if you look at any bow mass produced in the world, is always pounds. all bows are. where do you think this guy got the idea to measure the &quot;weight of the draw&quot;? he was correct in doing it that way.
<p>I hate being pedantic but is f=m*a, as most letters in physics are usually units, and almost always named after someone. Technically your equation says capacitance is equal to molarity multiplied by amps lol. Might be true with some material out there, true, but not what you meant I think lol</p>
Yeea it was more for clarity visual clarity really haha. To make it stand out. I remember in Highschool learning about what you said but it's a bit too fuzzy for me to be able to remember all the ways they work. Thanks though! I think by the time everyone is done correcting each other, we'll be able to write a college textbook.
<p>Sorry, most <em>capital</em> letters </p>
to find the force required to draw the bow, you can simply find the &quot;draw weight&quot; in kg and multiply by 10. Simple as. I just like being more scientific, so no offence meant to anyone ;)
<p>If you are being scientific then you should realize that a multiplication by 10, or if you want to be more correct actually more like 9.8, only converts to newtons if you are assuming gravity as the acceleration. This would equal the force needed to bend the bow towards the ground and thats all, not the force when actually pulling it back yourself, because the calculation of applying force when it is perpendicular to the ground as nothing to do with multiplying be 10. Also, saying &quot;simple as&quot; also seems to backhandedly intend offence, so if you ACTUALLY mean no offence maybe considering your wording a little more...</p><p>And if you want to get into being more scientific, complain to the guy using Capitals in his physics formulas. A=amps, not acceleration etc lol</p>
<p>1300rpm, in your attempt to be &quot;more scientific&quot; you have failed to do the proper scientific thing and do a little research. If you reference bows, crossbows, etc. you will see that from manufacturers through end users the standard for defining the bow's power is in pounds to full pull. It seems that you have no experience in archery so one might wonder why you felt the need to try to redefine an industry standard in an Instructable. You might have better luck if you contact the manufacturers, experts (including the Olympic standards committee I think) and set them straight on what they have been doing wrong for centurys. I'm sure they would appreciate your input. </p><p>As for the Instructable, it seems well done and as with all the submissions on here you have the right to use them or not. But attempting to be &quot;more scientific&quot; without knowing what you are talking about never ends well. Thanks for the Instructable brysenwwe.</p>
<p>Well Said!.... I agree...</p>
<p>Trying to appear smart like = making yourself look dumb. Nice Job!</p>
<p>In common language, everyone understands what he wrote. But being clear is important. So, to be clear, a pound is a measure of force in the English unit system. Your weight is a measure of force, i.e. 150 lbs, not mass as you stated. A slug is a measure of mass in the English system, like a Kg(mass), g(mass), etc... In common language there are conventions for the use of units that might be unclear in a scientific setting. For example, it is convenient to report a weight of an object in Kg, which means Kg(weight) is assumed. In a text book by a non-technical trying to be technical I would wonder about the use. Does the author mean a kilogram(mass) or a kilogram(weight)=a kilogram of mass in the gravitational field a the surface of the earth?</p><p>brysenwwe used the term &quot;pound&quot; correctly. </p>
<p>sorry to be a stickler but a kilogram is abbreviated to a kg not Kg. Wouldn't have said anything but its the only one you capitalized lol and as a lowercase k means 1000 and an uppercase one doesn't it makes no sense as a capitalized abbreviation :) sorry pet peeve</p>
<p>Actually, not quite: Lbs is force ; the unit of mass associated with this force is</p><p>the 'slug' which doesn't vary with gravity ..</p><p><a href="http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/mechanics/slug.html" rel="nofollow">http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/mechani...</a></p><p>And i did enjoy reading this project . .nice job, creating a quite-powerful weapon..</p>

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