A plug-in hybrid is a car which can run off a combination of electricity (stored in batteries) charged from a wall outlet, and some other fuel, such as gasoline.
This vehicle uses ONLY the battery-electric system to start with, and has manual control over when the other energy source is used, in this case, a propane generator.
Using only electric power, and THEN switching to a hydrocarbon fuel only when needed, is sometimes also called a Range-Extended Electric Vehicle, or EREV.
Think of this car as a poor-man's Chevy Volt or Plug-In Prius.
I already converted this Geo Metro to run on electricity. You can read all the details about that at my ELECTRIC CAR CONVERSION INSTRUCTABLE.
This Instructable will detail adding a second power source to the vehicle to extend its range.
I've been driving this car for about two years now as electric. The only thing I don't like about it is that I find that there are a few too many times where my destination is just a little outside my range, or there is no access to electricity at the destination to be able to recharge while I was there.
Adding the second power system to the car allows me to make trips that I would otherwise need to use a gasoline vehicle for.
In a nutshell - the generator makes AC electricity that powers the traction pack battery charger. The charger passes DC electricity into the batteries. By constantly "topping-off" the batteries, they are kept more full and allow the car to drive farther. The generator is NOT powerful enough to drive the car directly from. However, the generator can continue to run while the car isn't using any battery power, such as rolling downhill, or at a stop light.
So, the smaller, but steady power of the generator provides additional range, while the torque and energy of the electric motor and battery pack give the car good power for acceleration and hill climbing that the small generator engine would NOT be able to provide.
Also, engines running at a steady speed at fairly wide open throttle are MUCH more efficient than one running lightly loaded or at varying speeds (such as in a standard gasoline car.)
See more of my clean transportation projects at 300MPG.org
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Signing UpStep 1: Tools and Materials
Also, this project involves AC and DC electricity, Batteries, Generators, Flammable Fuels, Welding, and Power Tools. Always observe all safety precautions. Wear safety glasses, work gloves, and ear protection. Never use tools or techniques you are not comfortable with.
Essentially, this is an electro-mechanical project.
For materials, we will need:
Electric Car
Generator
Circuit Breaker
Electric Outlet
Angle Iron and misc metal (check the scrap metal pile!)
Some plywood
Propane tank
Propane Primary and Demand Regulators
Propane hose, hose clamps, and threaded pipe
Muffler and pipe
Electric power cable (6 ga or thicker)
Heat Shrink and misc wiring connectors
12V relay
The Mechanic's manual for the car
3/8ths inch bolts, nuts, washers, lock washers, and threaded rod
For tools, we are going to need a bit of everything:
Wrenches
Ratchet and sockets
Wire Strippers
Crimper
Work Light
Drill & Bits
Screwdrivers
Battery Charger
Welder (although bolt-together construction would also work)
Tubing cutter, scissors, or knife
Clamps
Volt Meter
and assorted other home workshop tools.
I'm a pretty big fan of my Craftsman Cordless Tool set. Two drills/screwdrivers, a work light, a reciprocating saw, circular saw, flashlight, and power stapler all run off the same interchangeable batteries. I have two chargers and four batteries.
It's great to always have the right tool handy and not have to trip on an extension cord!











































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you are losing energy in the conversion from 120 VAC through the battery charger. That means part of the energy of the propane you are burning
is becoming heat besides the heat loss of the engine itself.
Which by the way could be used to heat the car in winter.
Generating 120 VAC power with the generator then
using a battery charger to convert it to 12 VDC is not efficient.
You should get a generator which generates 100% of its power at 12 VDC
(there are a few with that will generate 12 volts; problem is that only as a small percentage of the total generated power.. not good)
Then use those 12 VDC to charge the batteries directly, other solution could be using a 120 VAC 3 phase motor (very efficient; with an IGBT controller that will generate 3 phase current to control your motor) and feed the system with 10 x twelve volt batteries in series, that way you will only need a bridge rectifier (converts AC to DC) directly from the 120 VAC generator output to the batteries.
A suitable "regulator" should be used to avoid overcharging the battery pack, there are 100's of circuits out there, to build your own battery charge regulator. That will do the job in the most efficient way.
I'm an Electronics engineer and I'll help you if you want or need any help.
I got the generator for free. I did the whole hybridization with existing components I already had.
Also, I would NOT want a generator that puts out 12V, I would want one that outputs a bit higher than the voltage of the battery pack, which can be anywhere from 72 to 144V depending on how many batteries I have in the car.
While creating AC to go to the charger to create DC is NOT the most efficient way to go, I already had both the generator and charger. As for a suitable "regulator" to prevent overcharging, that's built right into the charger as well.
I had considered using a bridge rectifier to convert the output of the AC directly to DC, and running the car at that system voltage, but by that time I had decided that I wasn't really that interested in continuing to run the car as a hybrid, due to noise and space considerations.
Were I going to build a new hybrid from scratch, I would definately consider using an AC motor, IGBT control, etc, etc, but sometimes you can to weigh efficiency VS cost as well.
PS: Actually, I AM considering building a dedicated hybrid right now, but it will be a parallel hybrid rather than a serial hybrid. Still, the electronics and controls will be the most challenging part of the project.
As to the safety issue, so what? Life is a gamble. So what if a bunch of people get killed in such vehicles? That helps the planet by reducing the population... you won't see me in one, I think there are better alternatives. You can fuel a vehicle with almost anything that will burn, with a few modifications and installing a "smoker" pot. I've seen a truck that runs on wood chips, dry grass clippings, anything burnable.
I wouldn't say the Volt is gutless either, it has a sport mode, which gives fairly fun acceleration. I do not live in an area of mountains, but hills were not an issue at all.
I did a video test drive review of the Volt a while back. Please watch it if you have any other questions. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BYjqQC28JGo
The SL version of the Nissan Leaf has a PV solar panel built in to the rear spoiler. It doesn't charge the traction battery pack, but DOES top off the accessory battery.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aH77btVH628
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gS7X7jXt6ho
Full specs on the Volt and the Leaf are available on their web pages, for anyone who wants to know the actual range, horsepower, fuel economy, etc.
I AM a big fan of "gasifier" vehicles. I have several friends working on gasifier systems for home heating and power generation.
The guys over at Beaver Energy built a really nice wood-gas car: http://www.beaverenergy.com
You would never get anywhere near half the energy it took to drive to wherever you are parked with PV panels, even if you were parked there from sunrise to sunset and a panel the size of the entire car were pointed directly at the sun all day. As installed in a vehicle, you might have an average of 25% of the panel's rated output due to the angle the panels to the sun. This, of course, assumes that the drive is further than a person in decent health could pedal a bike without breaking a sweat. If you drive 2 blocks, you might get half the energy back, but it's still a small amount.
It would also add a few thousand dollars to the initial cost of the car, and due to the depreciation on a car, would be money thrown away. I doubt that anyone would keep the car long enough for a PV system to pay for itself.
Since it would be foolish to RELY on car-mounted PV panels to get you home from work, one would be much better off setting up a grid tie system at home and charging the car there at night. There, you would be able to have the panels pointed directly at the sun, and sell the energy to the utility company during the day for more money that it costs you at night. Those panels will still be there making you money after the car is gone, and there's no way a van can park next to your house and block the sun.
A full-size, main-stream manufactured EV like the Leaf has a VERY large battery pack, and requires considerable power for recharging. The Leaf has something like a 20 hour recharge time from a 120V 15 amp outlet.
There are a few vehicles out there that do have a small solar panel, but it's for the ACCESSORY battery and or some summer cooling of the car. There are versions of both the Leaf and the Prius with small solar panels on them, but neither is for propulsion.
Don't get me wrong, I'm not saying it can't be done, it's just that it's not practical, due to the expense, size, and shape of the vehicle (PV panels are NOT aerodynamic!)
Vehicles that spend nearly all their time in the sun, use less energy, and are boxier, are good candidates for PV on the roof. There are a fair number of electric golf carts with PV roofs for example. I also know a guy with an electric pontoon boat. He has a fair number of PV panels on the roof of the boat (which shades the boaters from the sun.) He has lake access that is OFF his property, so there isn't any shore power available to him there. The boat is COMPLETELY solar powered, he doesn't even have a wall charger for it.
For most people, solar panels on their garage, with a grid-tie and net-metering payment system is what would make the most sense for a clean energy source. Alternatively, many electric power providers offer some sort of Renewable Energy Program, where you can purchase renewably sourced electricity over the grid.
The funny thing that many people here seem to forget is what Taranach is basically saying, we all die at some point, there is no point in trying to avoid it. I agree with don't do things that are blatantly stupid, but if we do something like is shown here, in the end the world is better for it. Knowing that I am going to die makes me want to do something like Bennelson here is doing and leave this world a better place than the one that I live in.
In general, car's that run an internal combustion engine directly with propane are considerably cheaper to fuel than gasoline.
Many people are very correct that if these alarmist had gotten their way through the centuries we would NOT be living as we are today... Don't go outside the cave, you might get eaten! Don't stay inside the cave, it might collapse. Yeesh!!
Don't forget the dangers of di-hydrogen monoxide (did I get that right?)
Heh heh heh! ;)
Which part of the cave is the dangerous part again? Front (where the landslides hit one on the head with falling rocks if you venture outside), or the back where you can't dig out after a collapse?
BTW, I know a man who bought a car in the 1950's, converted it to propane and has been driving it ever since. He only wanted to buy one car in his lifetime and he's in his 80's now. The car has over 3 million miles on it and he just does basic maintenance, lube, oil, waxing, etc.
As for the rest... pray tell, how do you get that propane tank from the place of purchase to your house? Do you carry it home by hand? No? Perhaps you use a cart or dolly? No? Then golly gee whiz you just put it into your car... and probably far less securely than this guy did... did he put the tank out on the front or rear bumper? No? Gee, it is reasonably protected.... point is also moot.
What about that kid who decides to smash a lighter against the ground with a hammer... does anyone deserve to lose their house from the resultant fireball? Nice appeal of "for the kids"... Point is moot.
Your "reasonable precautions" are just that... if you are so awesomely clever about how it should be done with "reasonable precautions" then Please post your own instructable to show us how to do it "properly.... until then... Point. Is. Moot.
there needs to be a division between the generator/propane tank and the passengers compartment. For example look at how RV's have used and mounted tanks and generators for many years.
As to what I said and what I was specifically referencing? Really? Seriously? that is the best you can come up with?
Your point is not "alarmist", yours is precautionary considering what you are working with. I have no problem with that. Suggestions that are proactive and helpful are all good. The others were "alarmist" and negative and indicating that it should not be done at all.. My opinions were valid for the issues raised and statements made. I still stand by them. Yes, sometimes refinements need to be made for various reasons, including safety, and suggestions to make something better are also good, but to not do anything at all because it might be "unsafe" is ridiculous. We wouldn't have 90% of what we have today if nobody ever did anything "unsafe".
Did you also know that when locomotives were first introduced, they were restricted in how fast they could go because "traveling above 30 miles and hour" was deemed unsafe and even hazardous.Guess we should all go back to horse and buggy. No more "unsafe" cars!
Very cool,thank you for sharing!
What I really want to see is a DIYer emulating toyota's "hybrid synergy drive"... that would be exciting news indeed.
The Toyota hybrid system is very nice. It relies on a very fancy transmission though. I haven't seen anyone do a homebrew version yet.
On Honda's hybrid system, the electric motor is right on the end of the engine. That really wouldn't be all that difficult for a DIYer to do.
The original Honda Insight really isn't that far from a 3 cylinder Geo Metro engine with an Etek motor on the end of it!
The main contactor, and other electrical connections are in a sealed box under the hood.