Step 7: Finishing touches:
Ventilation: 2 holes were drilled into each end of the Tool Box Grill, positioned just below the charcoal grill/rack inside.
Secure the grilling grate: The upper grilling grate is removable and slides into place from the inside of the tool box. Actually keeping it securely in place was the challenge I faced. Just "being careful" wasn't going to cut it. I'm not exactly graceful.
The easiest solution was a magnet insert, placed inside the compartment where the grate bar slides in. The grate bar butts up against the magnet insert and stops. The opposite end of the grate bar is then effectively "locked" securely in place.
When the grate needs to be removed, all I have to do is push the magnet insert aside and slide the grill grate back and out. Problem solved.
I also wanted to be able to seal off the ventilation holes during transport. Magnets seemed like the best choice for this, too.
More Sugru: To make the magnets more visible (and help keep them from getting misplaced), I applied a thin coat of white sugru around them.
Potholders: Since this grill is a little more hands-on than your average Weber, potholders will undoubtedly be my BGF.(Best Grill Friend).
Unfortunately, potholders get lost... potholders get misplaced... and occasionally, potholders get stolen! (j/k. I just wanted to see if you were paying attention ;-)
To 100% insure I wouldn't ever be without my BGF's, I gorilla-glued a magnet to each potholder as shown. In the event the gorilla glue* doesn't hold, I shall perform delicate potholder surgery and sew the magnets inside.
*Update: The Gorilla glue did not survive the heat test. Surgery successful. ;-)
Secure the grilling grate: The upper grilling grate is removable and slides into place from the inside of the tool box. Actually keeping it securely in place was the challenge I faced. Just "being careful" wasn't going to cut it. I'm not exactly graceful.
The easiest solution was a magnet insert, placed inside the compartment where the grate bar slides in. The grate bar butts up against the magnet insert and stops. The opposite end of the grate bar is then effectively "locked" securely in place.
When the grate needs to be removed, all I have to do is push the magnet insert aside and slide the grill grate back and out. Problem solved.
I also wanted to be able to seal off the ventilation holes during transport. Magnets seemed like the best choice for this, too.
More Sugru: To make the magnets more visible (and help keep them from getting misplaced), I applied a thin coat of white sugru around them.
Potholders: Since this grill is a little more hands-on than your average Weber, potholders will undoubtedly be my BGF.(Best Grill Friend).
Unfortunately, potholders get lost... potholders get misplaced... and occasionally, potholders get stolen! (j/k. I just wanted to see if you were paying attention ;-)
To 100% insure I wouldn't ever be without my BGF's, I gorilla-glued a magnet to each potholder as shown. In the event the gorilla glue* doesn't hold, I shall perform delicate potholder surgery and sew the magnets inside.
*Update: The Gorilla glue did not survive the heat test. Surgery successful. ;-)
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I always hear that magnets lose their magnetism permanently if they are heated up beyond a certain point. Some googling says that even 15 min in a 300F/150°C oven can greatly reduce it. What's your experience?
I've grilled in this toolbox twice. The insert-magnet is still holding strong.
Since I don't have a thermometer on the tool box grill, it's hard to gauge the temperature/heat that's been generated.
I decided to test an identical magnet (from the same blister-pak) in my oven, which is accurately gauged. :-)
The magnets I used measure 3/4" in diameter and are 3/16" thick.
I preheated the oven to 350° F for 10 minutes. The magnet was attached to a stainless steel bowl and baked for 15 minutes.
After cooling to room temperature, here's a picture of the results. The magnetic ability is still very much intact.