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Step 2Etching the Circuit Board...
There are several instructables and tutorials on the web on how to etch boards using the toner transfer method so I won't go into much detail here. I have found my tried and true method so you will have to experiment to find what works for you. I use the "glossy text" paper from FedexOffice's (they keep it behind the counter so you will have to ask for it) and print from their express computers to the B&W Xerox Phaser 5500 printer. All FedexOffice's have this printer in there express area (at least at the time of this writing) and it lays down a heavy black coat of toner perfect for this process. The copiers (especially the Canon's) are horrible for this so I stick to what works.
Once you have your negative (reversed) image then you are ready to iron it on to the copper. I alway clean the board with fine steel wool (00 or 000) and then wipe it down with alcohol right before I begin to get the best adhesion of the tone to the copper. (In these pictures I am etching several boards to use in later projects). Place your image face down and with the iron set to nearly the highest (cotton) setting (no steam) lay the iron in the middle for a few seconds to melt the toner. This will tack it to the copper and stop it from sliding around as you begin to iron and apply more pressure. I generally work with the point of the iron moving from the center outwards, turning the board as I go. The process usually takes only 5 minutes of firm ironing until it is ready. With this paper I can see the toner outline coming through when it is almost ready.
We you are satisfied that you have it all melted then allow it to cool for a minute or two and then throw it in a bowl of hot/warm water to let the paper soak a bit. When the paper starts to buckle I start massaging it to gently loosen it up until it starts to peel. The goal now is to remove all the paper from the exposed copper. It isn't important to remove all the paper stuck to the toner traces just as long as there is no paper blocking any holes or bridging anything. I use an old soft toothbrush and under a running faucet to lightly scrub the stubborn paper particles that still remain.
Next I dry the board and under a decent light source I examine the traces for pinholes or scraped off toner spots and use a Sharpie marker to fill in any gaps or mistakes.
Now it is ready to etch... I like to warm my Ferric Chloride by placing my etching chamber in a bath of hot-ass water, this will speed up the copper removal time immensely. (With Ferric Chloride it is WISE to use gloves since it stains almost everything it touches especially human skin.) Drop the board in a wait a few minutes, then agitate the solution by swirling it around and then let it sit a spell more. Open a cold beer and drink while you are waiting. Repeat until all the exposed copper is de-solved, or run out of beer, then remove the board and rise off with cold water.
To remove the toner you can use Acetone or Car Brake cleaner but I just use a green 3M scotch pad and elbow grease. Voila! You now have a circuit board you made all by yourself!!
All that is left is to drill out the tiny holes and you are ready to start soldering. I strongly recommend using a drill press (Dermel has a nice one) for this process, it will save you lots of curse words that are better spent on crummy football games
Once you have your negative (reversed) image then you are ready to iron it on to the copper. I alway clean the board with fine steel wool (00 or 000) and then wipe it down with alcohol right before I begin to get the best adhesion of the tone to the copper. (In these pictures I am etching several boards to use in later projects). Place your image face down and with the iron set to nearly the highest (cotton) setting (no steam) lay the iron in the middle for a few seconds to melt the toner. This will tack it to the copper and stop it from sliding around as you begin to iron and apply more pressure. I generally work with the point of the iron moving from the center outwards, turning the board as I go. The process usually takes only 5 minutes of firm ironing until it is ready. With this paper I can see the toner outline coming through when it is almost ready.
We you are satisfied that you have it all melted then allow it to cool for a minute or two and then throw it in a bowl of hot/warm water to let the paper soak a bit. When the paper starts to buckle I start massaging it to gently loosen it up until it starts to peel. The goal now is to remove all the paper from the exposed copper. It isn't important to remove all the paper stuck to the toner traces just as long as there is no paper blocking any holes or bridging anything. I use an old soft toothbrush and under a running faucet to lightly scrub the stubborn paper particles that still remain.
Next I dry the board and under a decent light source I examine the traces for pinholes or scraped off toner spots and use a Sharpie marker to fill in any gaps or mistakes.
Now it is ready to etch... I like to warm my Ferric Chloride by placing my etching chamber in a bath of hot-ass water, this will speed up the copper removal time immensely. (With Ferric Chloride it is WISE to use gloves since it stains almost everything it touches especially human skin.) Drop the board in a wait a few minutes, then agitate the solution by swirling it around and then let it sit a spell more. Open a cold beer and drink while you are waiting. Repeat until all the exposed copper is de-solved, or run out of beer, then remove the board and rise off with cold water.
To remove the toner you can use Acetone or Car Brake cleaner but I just use a green 3M scotch pad and elbow grease. Voila! You now have a circuit board you made all by yourself!!
All that is left is to drill out the tiny holes and you are ready to start soldering. I strongly recommend using a drill press (Dermel has a nice one) for this process, it will save you lots of curse words that are better spent on crummy football games
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May 19, 2012. 3:13 AMbabakkamiyab
says:
hii. i cant download pdf file from your site can you help me and send it to my mail? babakkamiyab@google.com
Reply
May 12, 2009. 12:20 AMkk0807_leung
says:
can you send you Distortion Guitar Effect Circuit to me? this is my e-mail : sam133187@hotmail.com and if you have another Guitar Effect Circuit, can you send to my e-mail?
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4
May 12, 2009. 6:51 AMsilverHalo (author)
says:
Please look at the first step of the instructable for the "tonepad.com" link. Click on it and it will take you to the website that has the "Distortion Guitar Effect Circuit" and also many, many others. Thanks!
Reply
Apr 19, 2010. 4:11 PM13dwarf
says:
where is the file on the site? i got there but i didnt see any thing that said "Distortion Guitar Effect Circuit"
Reply
Apr 19, 2010. 4:55 PM13dwarf
says:
or can u email me the circuit board at kranku26@gmail.com
Reply
Apr 8, 2009. 11:16 PM1nstru
says:
from what i see in the pictures, your PCB turned out great! here´s a tip that will help save you ferric chloride and threredby mitigate the inherent pollution factor of making PCBs: have as much area of your PCB be black in the printout and see if you can connect those areas to mass. lots of mass area will not only reduce humming but more importantly it will recude the amount of copper that has to be etched of, thus reducing the amount of toxic copper/ferric chloride - goo you end up with. you also save PCB material.
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