Step 4: Case Layout and stuffing the beast!

Now we have to figure out how we want to wire out pedal for power and bypass. The Off-Board wiring PDF has 6 different wiring setups depending on what you are after. If you can only find a DPDT switch you will have to use one of the schematics with the Millennium By-Pass setups which requires extra parts and a separate board which will eat up more space.

The Quickest and Easiest route is to get a 3 pole double throw switch (3PDT) from Ebay (the cheapest) or other guitar part sites on the web. With a 3PDT switch you can wire a LED without the hassle of adding a separate circuit board with the ByPass circuit. We will be using the Offboard Wiring 5 scheme for this project. This setup will allow for an LED, battery power, and for external 9V DC power.

Determine the best spot on your case for the input and output jacks. I like them in the back to keep the guitar cables out of my way when playing and for this case design it provided me with the most internal space. Use a spring loaded punch to mark the center of the holes, this will give you a center and will keep the drill bit from sliding around as you drill. Drill out these holes and also the holes for the 3PDT stomp switch, the 3 Pots, LED, and External power connector. You can build a cardboard mock-up of your case and play around with the placement of the parts before your drill if you are unsure of the fit. I used some thin gauge sheet metal to fabricate a bracket for the PCB mount that connects to the case via the center pot in order to not have to add any more holes in the case.

Now we solder all the wires to the jacks, switches, and power connectors as laid out in the diagram. Double check all the runs to make sure they are correct since it is easy to mix up wires in all this chaos. I temporarily mounted everything in the case to get an idea of the length of wires I will need to solder all the jacks and switches together.

Once the distances where measured and the wires were cut I took everything apart and soldered it together. I left the wires running to the 3PDT switch a bit long as to give myself some room to run them off to the sides in order to have room for the battery clip in between the board and the switch.

I used a thin piece of plastic to separate the battery from the exposed circuit board traces to protect from any short circuits in case they happen to touch each other.The plastic is bent like the circuit board attachment bracket and connects to the case using the holes drilled for the battery clip which is mounted to the bottom of the case.
Lexoo934 years ago
how do I have to change scheme #5 if I just want a DC input and no battery?
Yeah, if anyone out there knows the answer to this one, I'd really like to know too.
deco974 years ago
I was just wondering how you tell which side of the jacks is which?
lfebrero4 years ago
Hi man! I was wondering in wich direction I should put the 3PDT switch to make the connections according to the diagram #5 in tonepad.I mean, with the tips horizontaly o verticaly?? thanks
aritoner5 years ago
 so i blew the last one and decided to try again but i noticed that in your picture your true bypass switch looks to almost have a square shape but mine has a rectangular shape the question is how do i know which way is the right  way to start soldering
cheetahxing6 years ago
What tool did you use to drill the holes in your case? Great project by the way!
silverHalo (author)  cheetahxing6 years ago
I used my drill press to drill the holes... but a regular hand drill would work just the same. I have a spring-loaded punch I use to mark the centers of the holes, it leaves a dimple in the metal so the drill bit doesn't wander as you start to drill.
wat is Vb in the schematic given as pdf in tonepad? can some one explain me this...? what is need of using a battey in the circuit....?
silverHalo (author)  davidpaul19857 years ago
To be honest I am not quite sure... I think that in some schematic layouts it just means the Vb is connected to Vb which could be opposite sides on the diagram. It is odd that they are right next to each other and the author could just have connected the two points together since they are connected to each other on the circuit board. I'm sure you could send an email to the guy who runs TonePad (he designed the circuit) and get the correct answer from him. The point of the battery is so you don't have to use an external power supply all the time, which is good if you play in clubs and don't have access to a plug or power strip. The circuit needs juice to amplify the guitar signal and boost is to the amp since the guitar signal is quite low coming out of the pickups. If you turn the distortion all the way off you can use the pedal as a lead boost for clean tone to give your guitar more volume for solos and such.... Hope this helps!
i made the overdrive pedal with the help of the layout from tonepad.com.... yet i have a whole lot of questions to ask u about the overdrive pedal...... is 2N5458 a transistor or a heat sink in the circuit......? i made the circuit on my own with the ciecuit layout from tonepad, but the thing is tat the is no distortion in my pedal...... i'm still doing my R&D on it...... when i connect my guitar, it sounds normal in OFF position and there is no distortion when i ON my overdrive pedal.... but my guitar sound gets amplifeid and i get heavy output from my guitar.... i use FENDER STRATOCASTER and IBANEZ to test my overdrive pedal mann..... can u tell me why its happens so.....? i used 2N545B transistor instead of 2N5458....... my volume filter and distiortion controls r not working properly can u tell me why? even i increase or decrease those levels they r just the same as it sounds.... will tat workout if i spend some more time in that layout....... i'll be happy if it works well this time mann.... can anyone help me out....... plzzzzzz........ its almost over here and somemore effort will set it work rite....... can any guys help me plz......
silverHalo (author)  davidpaul19857 years ago
Carefully recheck your soldering to make sure the solder joints are all shiny and have bonded correctly. While doing that make sure all the components are all orientated the right way. The diodes only allow current to flow in one direction... so if they are backwards they will not work correctly. Also the electrolytic capacitors are polarized (the round metal can looking capacitors) and could explode if put in backwards too! Also check the 2N5458 transistor... make sure it is soldered correctly. The flat side of the transistor should face the big IC chip (LM308). Also double check the wiring of the volume, distortion, and filter knobs..... make sure they are not wired backward. It is tough to trouble shoot but just carefully go over the board and double or triple check everything again. I can't see your board so I can't offer any suggestions other than what I have already said. If everything is placed correctly and your soldering job is good then it should work!! Take your time and Goodluck!