Introduction: DIY Router Table
I just bought a new Craftsman router and was wanting a router table to mount it in and decided to build my own.
Some of the features I wanted were
- Adjustable fence
- Dust Collection
- Switch to control router and vacuum
- Ease of access to router
Step 1: Design, Materials and Tools
I modeled my design in Solidworks so I had a set of plans to go off of. I designed the top and fence out of 3/4" plywood I had left over from another project and the legs are made out of 2x4 material.
- The top dimensions came from the largest piece of plywood I had so you can change this to fit your needs.
- The location of the mounting holes came from my router base and my change depending on your router.
- Size of dust collection hole in fence can be changed to fit your system.
- 3/4" Plywood
- ~5ft of 2x4
- Wood Glue
- 2 x Outlet Boxes
- 1 x Switch and Cover
- 1 x Outlet and Cover
- ~16" of House Wire
- 2 x Wire Nut
- 2 x Wire Staples
- Electrical plug (I used one off an old battery backup)
- Assortment of screws from 1-1/2" to 2-1/2" (Used what I had laying around)
- 3 x 10-32, 1" long Counter sink bolts for mounting router (Use suitable size for your router)
- 2 x 1/4", 2-1/2" long Carriage Bolts
- 2 x 1/4" washers
- 2 x 1/4" Wing Nuts
- Tape Measure
- Chop Saw
- Table Saw
- Drill/Drive Bits
- 1/4 Router Bit
- Nail Gun (Optional, used to nail glued pieces so as not to have to wait for them to dry)
- Taper Jig for table saw
- Sand Paper
- Outlet Tester (Optional but Recommended)
Step 2: Top
- Cut top to desired size, for me this was the size of a piece I had laying around
- Layout holes for mounting router, I traced the removable plastic plate from my router base to locate my holes
- Layout slots for movable fence from the drawing
- Center punch all holes and ends of slots
- Pilot drill all holes
- Drill 3/16" holes for mounting router
- Counter sink holes
- Drill 1-1/2" hole for router spindle
- Drill 1/4" holes for ends of slots
- Set router edge guide to 6" and router slots with 1/4" Bit
- Sand all edges
Step 3: Legs
Legs are designed to use a single 12" piece of 2x4 for each leg and then a 12" piece ripped down center for the cross bars.
- Cut 5, 12" sections of 2x4 (I cut 6 just in case I messed one up)
- Layout angled cut on 4 pieces
- Set up taper jig to cut correct angle
- Cut legs
- Layout legs to glue them together, make sure that you have 2 sets that mirror each other to make up each side of the legs
- Start screws in the larger side then apply glue to smaller piece, flush the top of the 2 and drive the screws in
- Repeat step 6 for all 4 legs
- Sand all edges
- Rip one of the remaining 12" pieces of 2x4 down the center, these will be the cross bars
- Sand all edges
- Glue and screw together the 2 mirrored legs with a cross bar as shown in the pictures
- Repeat step 9 for the other set of legs
- Attach the 2 sets of legs to the top, 2" in from the top edge on all sides
Step 4: Fence
- Cut an at least 7-1/8" wide piece of plywood to the same length as the top (In my case 22-1/2")
- Rip a 3" and 4" section
- Layout the cutout section on both the front and bottom pieces of the fence and the holes on the bottom piece
- Cut sections out, I used a miter gauge and cut them on the table saw but a jig saw or hand saw would work
- Center punch, pilot drill and 1/4" drill holes in bottom piece
- Sand edges
- Glue and screw the front to the bottom section with the 4" section vertical
- Cutout pieces for dust collection from drawings
- Test fit all pieces, trim if necessary, sand all edges
- Glue angled side pieces and nail, otherwise clamp and wait to dry
- Glue top making sure to get a good bead of glue on all contacting surfaces to create a good seal and nail into the angle pieces, otherwise clamp and wait to dry.
- Center top extension, glue, clamp and wait to dry
- Drill hole for dust collection hose (In my case 1-1/2")
Step 5: Electrical
I wanted my switch to sit vertical so I cut an angle piece (about 8 deg angle) to put between the box and the leg, if you don't mind the switch being tilted you can omit this step.
- Pilot drill then use 3/8" drill to drill hole in top of one box
- Mount switch box to front using included nails
- Mount box with hole drilled in top to the back leg as shown in pictures using screws
- Run wire from switch box to outlet box
- Wire hot (Black) to brass screw, neutral (White) to silver screw and the ground to the green screw
- Run outlet chord into switch box
- Wire hot (Black) in to bottom of switch and hot out to the top, use jumper to wire ground in as seen in picture and wire neutrals (White) together
- Screw outlet and switch into boxes and attach cover plates
- (Optional but recommended) Use Outlet tester to make sure everything is wired correctly and you wont ruin any equipment plugged in or shock yourself when using it.
Step 6: Conclusion and Recomendation
Overall I liked the way it came out and it works good for my use, if you have any comments or sugestions please feel free to post them.
A few things I would add or change would be:
- Add slots to front of fence to allow adjustable auxiliary fences to be used on different router bits
- Add slot to front of table to allow a bolt to cut circles with
- Miter gauge slot
Thank you for reading and if you enjoyed this Instructable please consider voting for it in the woodworking contest, thank you and have a nice day.
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