Introduction: DIY STIRLING ENGINE BETA TYPE
HEY FRIENDS THIS TIME AGAIN I AM GONNA MAKE STIRLING ENGINE WHICH I MADE EARLIER TOO BUT IT WAS NOT HAVING CLEAR PICTURES AND THUS UN FEATURED SO THIS TIME I CLICKED CLEAR PICTURES SOME ONLY IT IS IS A FAMOUS DEVICE ITS OTHER TYPE IS THE ALPHA TYPE STIRLING ENGINE THIS ONE IS BETA TYPE IN WHICH BOTH THE PISTONS ARE MOVING IN ONE DIRECTION HERE IS A VIDEO OF SIMILAR TO THIS INSTRUCTABLE STIRLING ENGINE BUT NOT MINE VIDEO
Step 1: WHAT IS STIRLING ENGINE?
A Stirling engine is a heat engine that operates by cyclic compression and expansion of air or other gas (the working fluid) at different temperatures, such that there is a net conversion of heat energy to mechanical work. More specifically, the Stirling engine is a closed-cycle regenerative heat engine with a permanently gaseous working fluid. Closed-cycle, in this context, means a thermodynamic system in which the working fluid is permanently contained within the system, andregenerative describes the use of a specific type of internal heat exchanger and thermal store, known as the regenerator. The inclusion of a regenerator differentiates the Stirling engine from other closed cycle hot air engines.
Step 2: MATERIALS REQUIRED
- STRONG PLUMBING GUM LIKE M SEAL
- STEEL WOOL
- ALUMINIUM WIRE
- THIN COPPER WIRE
- TWO SODA CANS
- PLASTIC 1" ELBOW JOINT
- MULTITASKING TOOL
Step 3: JOINING ELBOW TO THE CAN
FOR THIS YOU FIRSTLY NEED PLUMBING GUM AND PLASTIC JOINT MAKE A LONG STRING OF M SEAL AND THEN PLACE THE ELBOW WITH UPPER PART PARALLEL TO THE CAN AT SAME LEVEL AND THEN LET IT DRY FOR NEAR ABOUT 12 HOURS AND THEN MAKE HOLE FROM THE INSIDE OF THE CAN TO MAKE THE PASSAGE OF AIR BETWEEN CAN AND THE ELBOW
Step 4: CUTTING CANS
Firstly you need two coke cans with their inside of their tops cut off. Use the tin snips to cut them, this will leave a lethal jagged edge which you must clean up either using a metal file or a small flap sander (could also use a Dremel)Then cut the bottom off the cans using a Stanley knife. Try not to crease the metal as this will reduce the chances of it being airtight. Some people say that you can use a can opener to remove the tops of the cans however I found that it destroys the sides of the can, you might have more luck!
Step 5: MAKING PISTON OR DISPLACER
The displacer is made from steel wire wool wrapped around around a piece of steel wire. Bend a small hook in the end of the wire and begin rolling steel wool around this. Once you get near the size of a coke can, cut the wool. Pull out the wire most of the way and cut the wool so that the displacer is around 2 inches high. On the other end of the wire (not the hook end - bend a spiral, this is just to give the wire more surface area so it can't be pulled out. Finally trim a slight bevel around the top to match the bevel on the coke can.You can test the displacer in a coke can now - it needs to fall freely under it's own weight. You can spin the displacer inside of the can to smooth it out. Try and make the spiral roughly into the shape of a coke can dome. Once your happy with the displacer movement you can tie about a foot of fishing wire onto the hook end of the displacer. Apply some super glue to the knot so that it can't wriggle loose when the engine is running.
Step 6: MAKING RUBBER PISTON OR DIAPHRAGM
The diaphragm of this engine is made from a balloon (just an ordinary one, nothing special!). It's reinforced with a piece of inner tube in the centre First of all cut the neck off a balloon and stretch the balloon end over the top of a can. Then cut a piece of inner-tube rubber about 1cm square and glue it in the centre of the balloon.Once the glue is dry, you can use a drawing pin to pierce a hole in the centre of the diaphragm for the displacer wire. Leave the pin in the hole until your ready to fit the displacer later.
Step 7: MAKING TIMING CHAIN OR CRANKS
I used copper because it's easier to bend and I like copper. If you need to straighten the copper wire you can clamp it in a drill and hold the other end with some pliers - spinning the drill should straighten the wire. Make sure you wear some decent safety gear though, in case the wire slips!I've included photo's of every step of bending the cranks below. The displacer piece should protrude about 20 mm and the other parts protrude about 5 mm, no need to be exact though. The displacer part is at 90 degrees to the push rods - this is the best angle for this engine.
Step 8: MAKING PISTON CYLINDER
ut the bottom off a coke can leaving about an inch from the base. Put the displacer and balloon into the pressure vessel, then push this base into the end of the can. Check that the displacer still moves freely.Now fit the balloon over the top it should not be tight or loose - just tight enough not to sag. Take an electrical connector that is not drilled and tie the fishing line through the screw hole about an inch above the bottom of the bottle cap - make sure that the displacer is at the bottom of the pressure vessel by tapping it on the table. Glue the knot so that it can't come lose. Apply a drop of oil to the wire and check that the displacer can be pulled easily and that it falls easily pulling the wire with it.
Step 9: ATTACHING WHEEL TO IT
The wheel is held on by bending a hook on the end of the crankshaft, this fits into the extra hole that you drilled into the dowel.
Step 10: BURNING VESSEL FOR CANDLE
THIS IS FOR THE ENGINE TO TAKE POWER FROM THE CANDLE AND COVER IT FROM THE SURROUNDINGS AND BLOWING AIR THIS ACTS AS A STAND TOO !
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