and a single fill of a 20lb tank will charge over 500 bottles!
Here's a quick demo of how it works...
For those looking for the "Cilffs Notes" summary of how this works: Take a 20lb CO2 Tank and regulator, attach a tube, and stick a 99 cent locking ball air chuck (tire inflator) on the end of the tube. Pop a cheap snap-in tire valve (schrader valve) into a plastic soda bottle cap and you're ready to carbonate any liquid in about 30 seconds. Colder liquids absorb more CO2 carbonation.
If you're intrigued, explore the steps on subsequent pages for more details...
As far as a "soda substitute," you can easily add a splash of orange, cranberry, or other fruit juice, a twist of lemon or lime, alcoholic mixed drinks, commercial or homemade soda syrups,or whatever you like...Our family drinks a ton of sparkling water; as kids, we always preferred it to regular tap water, and it's much healthier than soda.
I've recently taken to flavoring my soda water with lemon juice; I freeze a bunch of ice cubes of freshly juiced lemons, then take out and zap a cube for 15 sec. in the microwave to throw in my drink...Really tasty, low calorie, and no added sugar...
I've also experimented, with amusing success, at carbonating cheap wines (read: Charles "Two Buck Chuck" Shaw from Trader Joe's) to make dirt cheap champagne...Just make sure the bottle is chilled first.
I had been toying with the idea of buying a home carbonator, but I was leery of the idea of being locked into a proprietary, closed system of buying expensive refill cartridges from a retail manufacturer like Sodastream...
I knew there had to be a better way. After all, this is just mixing CO2 and water.
In my research, I came across an incredibly detailed essay on carbonation by Richard Kinch, without which I could not have completed the project...I highly suggest reading over his opus before embarking on your own carbonation exploration.
http://www.truetex.com/carbonation.htm
All of this can be done for around $100, plus the deposit on a CO2 tank...
Given that the cost of a 2-liter bottle of sparkling water is now over $1 (California just doubled their CRV surcharges), and based on the volume of water that we drink, it's a no-brainer. Plus, there's the feeling of liberation of being able to drink as much sparkling water as you want (much like digital photography vs. wasting actual film).
I'm not an EnviroNut, but since we're all apparently supposed to pitch in and make a last-ditch effort to save the planet, these facts on the effects of plastic water bottles on the environment were of interest:
- Approximately 1.5 million barrels of oil - enough to run 100,000 cars for a whole year - are used to make plastic water bottles, while transporting these bottles to markets burns even more oil.
- According to a 2001 report of the World Wide Fund for Nature (WWF), roughly 1.5 million tons of plastic are expended in the bottling of 89 billion liters of water each year.
- The growth in bottled water production has increased water extraction in areas near bottling plants, leading to water shortages that affect nearby consumers and farmers. In addition to the millions of gallons of water used in the plastic-making process, two gallons of water are wasted in the purification process for every gallon that goes into the bottles.
- Nearly 90 percent of water bottles are not recycled and wind up in landfills where it takes thousands of years for the plastic to decompose.
Personally, it's really just nice not to have to lug a bunch of 2-liters home from the market anymore, carry them all in, and find places to store them. (I'm sure she'll find other chores for me to do soon enough...)
Enjoy!
- Ben
Alternatively...
If money is no object, and/or the carbonation system is under consideration for use by elderly / disabled (or simply lazy) individuals, there IS another option that doesn't involve shaking the bottles yourself...
- Purchase a Sodastream (from Bed, Bath, and Beyond with a 20% off coupon, or somewhere even beyond-er), procure a Co2 tank as described above, and purchase a Freedom One (or Freedom One+ system) from Co2Doctor.com to connect the Sodastream with the larger Co2 tank. (choose the CGAWG or CGA option if you're on their order page.) While the initial investment in the supplies is not quite as cheap (about an extra $200), and it's not quite as DIY, I recently set up both sets of my grandparents with this system, and they absolutely love it.
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Signing UpStep 1: Procuring your Precious Parts...
- CO2 regulator, available from BeverageFactory.com, Kegworks.com, Amazon, or eBay (likely the cheapest way to go, but make sure you know what you're getting...)
- CO2 Tank; either ask to put a deposit on a 20lb CO2 tank for around $100 at a local beverage supply, bar supply, restaurant supply, soft drink, or beer distributor in your area, OR buy your own...Since you won't get your original tank back if you swap it out for a full tank, I'd recommend purchasing a reconditioned cylinder from Amazon.com or eBay. Regardless of whether you end up buying or putting a deposit on a tank, you can swap out empty tanks for about $15-25. To find a supplier, first check here for the nearest Airgas supplier (a popular, nationwide chain). They're the easiest way to go, possibly a tad higher prices than other places for a co2 tank swap. Otherwise, call around, search google maps for beverage supply, welding supply, home brewery supply, or be creative; Barmade, the bar products company that I found in Los Angeles was very helpful...When I moved, I switched to swapping my empties out with Airgas.
- Locking Ball Chuck, either available at Harbor Freight or Monkey Grip part #M8871, available online or in stores at Kragen Auto Parts...in testing, users have said that the Kragen/PartsAmerica locking ball chuck wasn't as sturdy as the Harbor Freight chuck...and it's also an excuse to visit the tool mecca of Harbor Freight. (Your mileage may vary.)
- Monkey Grip Rubberized Snap-In Tire Valve part #M4130, available online or in stores at Kragen Auto Parts...
Note:
After completing this instructable, I happened across an attachment for a screw-cap bottle that's not quite as DIY, but slightly more elegant (and slightly more expensive) than the tire valve solution...I haven't tested this option at all, but I'd assume it would work as an alternative...
Also, if you're concerned with the rubber snap-in valve leaching into the seltzer water, this may be a good option for you. Based on my research, I have been replacing/swapping out the rubber snap-in valve caps much sooner than they would theoretically start to deteriorate, so it hasn't been a concern of mine over the past 5 years. As a third option, they also make screw-on, stainless-steel-based tire valves, which would result in less rubber contacting the water. I haven't tried these yet...if you end up using the stainless steel ones, drop me a line and let me know how it went !
$15 Screw-On carbonator cap from with ball-lock fitting MoreBeer.com
$5.49 Ball-Lock fitting for braided hose from MoreBeer.com
Stainless Steel Tire Valves
- 1/4" Threaded Full-Port Ball Valve (inline shut-off valve), available at Home Depot...The part number is 107-701HC; the SKU on the bar code appears to be 32888 07701...
- 10 foot roll of braided vinyl tubing, 1/4" internal diameter, available at Home Depot...The external diameter of this tubing is 1/2"...
- (3) hose barb adapters, 1/4" barb x 1/4" MIP, available at Home Depot...This part is a "Watts A-192" or "A-192/225." Do not get the "192B"...
- (4) 9/16" hose clamps, available at Home Depot...I found these in a package of 10, with a listed "range" of 1/4 to 5/8.
- (3) 3/4" plastic pipe clamps, available at Home Depot...
- roll of 1/2" teflon tape...
- a 2 liter bottle and cap.







































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Other than that, this is a great Instructable. I love being able to make seltzer at home. I was able to get a 20lb CO2 tank, regulator, hoses, and 2 beer taps for $150 off CraigsList.
The shaking is a pain in the butt. How do we get our system to work (shake free) like theirs?
If you have a secure, leak-free connection to the CO2 supply, all you need to do is pressurize the empty space above the liquid to 60 psi, or so, and the patience to wait 24-48 hours. The gas will diffuse into the liquid without shaking until a saturated solution is produced. It's the exact reverse of uncapping a soda and leaving it on your counter at ambient pressure, allowing the CO2 to come out of solution and dissipate in the air.
This system does not waste any gas, because it is a closed system. You shake the bottle to get the gas to mix with the water. That's why you have to shake it. If you don't like shaking it, then by all means buy the more expensive products that do all the hard work for you. I won't, but you can do whatever you want.
I suppose in THEORY that if you had a long tube put from the bottom of the inlet valve that had a very small air bubbler from a aquarium store you COULD get away from not shaking so much, but you would have to inject the gas, open the lid, and inject more gas until you had the right pressure--but you would still be wasting gas and the major point of this entire Instructable is that by doing a little bit of work you can save huge amounts of money
It is also slightly more dangerous (although, not much more dangerous than brewing beer at home which many people do) because there is no valve to release the pressure from the bottle except for the cap. However, this is a minimal risk, as soda bottles have to be tested to some crazy high number like 150PSI without exploding because people leave bottles in the backs of cars all the time.
I built this exactly as written. Had a couple issues with product numbers, but got enough info to get the right parts.
Had friends over and got to impress their kids buy making "Coke" from scratch. Too much fun!
One question... Once in the glass, the cola loses fizz VERY fast. 5 minutes maybe? Any idea what I'm doing wrong? I do live in Montana. Could elevation be an issue?
Thanks again for posting. Fun weekend project while waiting for my cider to harden. :)
Great to see someone making their own seltzer and not using the store bought and chintzy method. I have been doing it for years. Only I have been refilling the old antique bottles from the 20's and 30's. Almost the same method but use a 35 PSI pump to fill the bottles with water, invert them bleed out the air usually it takes to times to fill the bottle. I use chilled water when filling then pressure with the C02. I normally shake while injecting the CO2 for more fizz. This puts to use my old and wonderful bottles. Now they are not just to look at but use on a regular basis. The water will stay "charged" indefinetly as it is sealed and the C02 is the propellant and shoots the water out when pressing the lever.
I solved this by moving to METAL based stems - I found bent ones used for motorcycles to help the bottles fit in my fridge. Instead of 2L, I use 3L because the caps are larger and allow the fitting of the metal stem into the cap.
Rather than using a rubber gasket, i was careful to not tear the thin polymer film that's on the underside of every soda bottle. Usually available for about $1/bottle if you buy one with store brand orange soda. Using stainless steel washers and a nut to press the thin film against the underside of the plastic of the cap, i easily got a good seal.
I've been using the same bottles for at least 3 years - it's probably time to switch, but it's a great system.
Also - the metal fittings will allow for the insertion of a tube that can go to near the bottom of the bottle so you don't have to shake!
I hold my bottles upsidedown whilst bubbling the gas in, thereby causing the gas to pass through the water, this reduces, but does not eliminate the shaking requirement.
everything but the co2 tank, in an assembled kit, including carbonator cap for less than the cost of parts everywhere else...and they shipped quick! they also have a kit with the tank.I happened to check these guys for the regulator as they were local to me, but it turns out they moved a few cities away. still the best price I found .
I am going to make this soon
J
You could also buy a used carbonator for $150
..And, you can add the final touch with a used soda gun for ~ $75 - $85
because i still need to travel just to get a small, expensive can of co2 but i can easily buy an air duster for $4
http://stores.kegconnection.com/Categories.bok?category=*Soda%2C+Soft+Drink%3ASoda+Kits%2C+Carbonating
any ideas? anyone?
I wonder what pressure a bottle of Coke, say, is at when opened.
--Terry
http://www.livestrong.com/article/131237-dangers-plastic-containers/
Just curious. I really like the idea of carbonation my water.
--Terry
James H
http://www.harborfreight.com/regulator-gauge-94841.html
or
http://www.harborfreight.com/oxygen-regulator-94846.html
Thanks!
CGA-580 Regulator to CGA-320 Cylinder (CO2 tank)
http://www.shoplet.com/Western-enterprises-Brass-Cylinder-Adaptors-810/SEPTLS312810/spdv
For http://www.harborfreight.com/oxygen-regulator-94846.html
You need an adapter for:
From Cylinder: CGA-320 Carbon Dioxide
To Regulator : CGA-540 Oxygen
Like this one: http://www.restockit.com/western-enterprises-brass-cylinder-adaptor-cga-320-540-(312-806).html
For http://www.harborfreight.com/regulator-gauge-94841.html
You need an adapter for:
From Cylinder: CGA-320 Carbon Dioxide
To Regulator: CGA-580 Argon, Helium or Nitrogen
Like this one: http://www.arizonatools.com/welding-cylinder-tools-and-adapters/detail/WESWD-810
CGA = Compressed Gas Association
If you buy 2-liter bottles it would cost $1.16 per bottle in syrup (reg $.99)
If you buy 20 oz bottles it would cost $0.34 per bottle in syrup (reg $.74 in packs)
If you buy 12oz cans it would cost $0.20 per can in syrup (reg $.50 in 24 pack)
SO, for those of us who buy 2-liter bottles on a regular basis, it's a waste of money. BUT for those of us who buy 20oz bottles or cans, it makes some financial sense to switch to home-carbonated. Personally, I just don't drink enough to justify the savings, nor should I drink that much soda. Barring sugary consequences, I would totally do it though.
For those serious about it, I found syrups by googling "coca cola syrup supplier" to find real sales links, or you can find a restaurant supply near you.
Even if your numbers are correct, I don't see where you've accounted for the cost of:
1) Fuel and time cost to get the pop/soda.
2) The ability to re-carbonate flat pop/soda. (no waste)
3) Recycle cost whether or not you have a bottle bill? (No taking bottles back to the store well for us that live in the smart states that have a bottle bills)
4) Environmental cost impact reduction.
There may be more but I think peeps get the idea!
Not to mention how cool would it be to make your own pop with SUGAR and not HFCS!
Thanks for the break down!
http://www.truetex.com/carbonation.htm
Just put together my system today (no pictures yet). The set-up is the same as the instructions, except that I'm using a ball-lock fitting and Carbonator Cap. Everything seems to be working as it should be and I've carbonated several different beverages already. I do have a couple questions that I'm hoping someone can answer:
1) When it's not in use, should the CO2 canister valve be kept shut off? I have a shut-off directly on the regulator and another in-line (for easier access), but I'm not sure if these are sufficient when not in use. Any idea?
2) I find the Carbonator Cap quite difficult to get on the ball-lock fitting and am wondering if anyone has had this experience. Any input would be much appreciated.
Again, thanks for the great instructions and all the helpful comments!
On another note: Cold water absorbs the CO2 faster, but it also releases it faster, thus the need to keep the bottles capped.
I worked in wastewater treatment for a number of years...
that its actual use is to make seltzer water.
Like this one: http://www.amazon.com/iSi-2248-ISI-Soda-Siphons/dp/B0033YU0G4
If so, it's made to make seltzer (soda water) and uses a small CO2 cartridge.
It blew out one of the "feet of the bottle" rocketed it into my ceiling, smashed my lightfixture and then broke a window. All the while hosing down my kitchen.
The biggest problem with those little containers is that they're tiny. you'll be using a $0.50 cartridge to make a bottle of water. Even the store-bought Soda makers are too expensive.
Get a 20lb tank, and It'll last a long time. I've had mine for around a year, and haven't had to fill it yet.
A friend of mine got a 10lb a little while later, and is just running out of gas now.
A refill is about $20. Less than the cost of one of the little refills for one of the storebought ones that only does a couple dozen bottles.
Most paintball canisters have a pin-valve, with which a regulator won't work. The simplest solution is to get a specially-made paintball to CGA 320 (or paintball to regulator) adapter.
Here are a couple links:
Aquatek AQUATEK CO2 Paintball Tank CGA 320 Adapter: http://aquatek-california.web.officelive.com/AQUATEKAccessories.aspx (available for sale on eBay, Amazon and other stores)
Unknown brand: http://cgi.ebay.com/Adapter-PAINTBALL-tank-conversion-CO2-Regulator-/350362950038?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5193425996
Good luck!
Keep in mind, it doesn't necessarily even need a ball lock or anything.
I simply took a stainless steel bolt, drilled a tiny hole down the centre of it, and machined the threads off near the end. (turned it into a barb with threads at the base)
I then drilled a hole in a bottle cap, put the bolt through, and threaded a nut onto the remaining threads.
I have a ball valve shuttoff after the regulator anyways, so I just screw my cap onto the bottle of ice cold water (colder makes it absorb CO2 easier), turn on the gas, and shake the bottle until I hear the gas stop hissing in (and the regulator needle stops bobbing).
Shut off the gas and let it sit for 20-30 seconds (or a couple minutes if I'm making something with sugar, or beer)
Open and enjoy. No butyl rubber, or potentially lead-leaching brass involved.
1. I housed everything in a "carbonation station", which was constructed making use of a "sonotube" piece, 16" diameter, 32" height and painted with a "kitchen" color.
2. The tank is a 15lb bought at Carbonation Services in San Jose for around $80.
3. The pressure regulator was originally an oxygen one, modified with a CGE320 nipple.
With "our method" one can carbonate any beverage without the problem to have the content gushing out as in the Sodastream method.
Gene
For instance, the "hose barb adapter" 1/4" barb X 1/4" MIP, A-192/225, which has product number 17000192, is not on Watts' list of lead-free products, which can be found at www.watts.com/pro/divisions/LeadFree/WattsLeadFree.xls.
Before using the method described herein to force pressurized gas into potable solution, it seems that people should first ascertain that they are not unwittingly consuming lead by-products.
http://www.realbeer.com/jjpalmer/Welding.txt
not by any chance an oregonian..?
The CO2 is injected identically to this process, but thru a dip tube such that its forced to bubble through the water rather than just hit the top surface. You don't have to shake and in about 10 seconds after you've injected, it's totally carbonated...
One word of warning is that regular pop bottles have a very limited lifespan - PARTICULARLY after they have been crinkled (stressed and turned milky white at the seam). That stress can release some nasty not-so-food-good chemicals into your drink. Only ever use mild detergent on the bottle, and never high temperatures. Only use a few times before recycling properly and replacing.
NEVER use copper or brass fittings when carbonating beverages or dealing with carbonic acid (a product of carbonation). Carbonic acid reacts with copper and copper alloys to produce poisonous byproducts. ONLY use stainless steel fittings when setting up a system like this for any kind of carbonation, and never store carbonated beverages in copper or brass containers.
In this system the internals of the bicycle tire valve are the only piece that may come in contact with carbonic acid. Whether they are food safe or not, I can't say. But in general you shouldn't be scared to use brass for your CO2 line.
All the co2 comes from the same source, and he never adds oil to the tanks either.
Talk to your supplier if you want to know.
I have read that its all the same and that restraunts buy their Co2 tanks from the same place as everyone else.
Amazon has a cheap liter bottle for 5 bucks.
http://www.amazon.com/Swing-Italian-Bottle-Approx-Capacity/dp/B002KGOSPK
special tweak of mine was that i was actually modifying a kegerator/draft system, and installed a quick disconnect off the regulator so that i can swap between force carbonating beverages, and dispensing draft beer.
thanks again!
So, does anyone who KNOWS whether this is actually dangerous wanna put in their two cents since we might be poisoning ourselves with this method?
The brass that Wiki is talking about is called leaded brass or free machining brass. Lead is added to the brass to make it machinable. The lead is contained IN the brass, and yes, there will be some lead on the surface.
Plumbing fittings are cast, of red brass or the appropriate bronze, and NOT of the machinable brasses.. Yes, there is post cast machining that takes place to cut threads and seats in valves and elbows and such, but there in NO lead used in that process.
There is now NO LEAD in plumbing solder... This was mandated federally in the 80's as I recall. If you have 50/50 tin/lead solder at home- dispose of it properly, and go buy tin/silver PLUMBING solder. You can get it anywhere: From a plumbing supply house to WalMart.
An added note: If your house is older than, say 40 years, all your copper plumbing was soldered with lead/tin solder. My house, and the house I grew up in has lead/tin solder. How come I don't have lead poisoning?
By the way, how do you know you DON'T have lead poisoning? :) Many of us were exposed to things we didn't know were harmful at the time, best if we avoid them as much as is reasonably possible, since I'm not sure "I drank a bunch of leaded water/breathed a bunch of second-hand smoke/lived under a bunch of asbestos/covered myself with a bunch of DDT, and I'M okay" is really an argument that is very persuasive, at least to me.
I don't know how to have my brass fittings tested for lead, or if a CO2 purifier would be necessary, but I really think people doing this should know that they could very well be drinking poison on a daily basis until there is evidence to the contrary.
The one I have used had a swab that required that you bend it to release liquid, then required that you rub the swab on the surface of the item to be tested. If the swap turned a specific color (pink, I think) then lead was present.
Still working on finding a nice looking reusable 1 or 2 liter bottle. HDPE? Or maybe glass is the way to go...
Anyway, found a lot of bottles here: http://www.ebottles.com/showbottles.asp?familyid=2
I did make a few minor changes:
- Pre-made carbonator cap and corresponding hose attachment
- Eliminated the in-line shutoff valve
- Clear vinyl tubing (3ft) versus braided tubing (10ft)
- 2.5lb aluminum tank vs 20lb
This makes the unit a little more manageable for an apartment setting. It also has the benefit of only requiring a flat-head screwdriver to put together.
Later on, I may consider getting a 20-oz paintball tank and an adapter like [http://morebeer.com/view_product/7650//Paint_Ball_Tank_Adapter this one] to make it even more compact, but the cheapest local refill cost I could find was $5.99 for a paintball tank, and $7.99 for a 2.5lb tank.
Using Richard Kinch's calculation of a 20lb tank yielding 1000L of carbonated water, a linear conversion gives a 2.5lb tank yielding 125L, which at a $7.99 fill-up equates to about $0.06 per liter, or $0.12 per 2L bottle.
And just for fun, that's 62.5L per 20oz paintball tank at $5.99 for a fill, or $0.19 per 2L bottle.
I could probably go to a paintball or sporting goods store and have it refilled for much less, but there are a few home brewing locations near me, so I decided to stick with places that -know- their product is going into food.
I used it to build my own carbonator, which works with glass bottles. I posted the design here and welcome any thoughts you guys have - particularly ideas for how to make it easier to use...
http://www.winslam.com/laramee/blog/_entry/2008/07/26/Advancing-the-State-of-DIY-Carbonation.html
I'm eventually going to do a redesign to eliminate a couple of problems, but the prototype is working pretty well.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OJD0bv9kLAQ
http://members.aol.com/gravikord/seltzer.html
we need to reverse engineer!
(That said, it's way cooler to follow this instructable and make it yourself.)
I looked into Soda Club's "Re-Order Supplies Page," here... It turns out that it's FAR more expensive in the long run to re-order supplies than to use a 20lb tank yourself...$0.83 per 2 liter vs. $0.04 per 2 liter...but there's definitely the convenience factor.
So for $111 this is a pretty good deal and a great project. You can also buy a very inexpensive adapter for your CO2 tank that will enable you to fill paintball gun tanks.
I would also like to figure out how to carbonate for glass bottles (that are capped with regular bottle caps). I think they sell tools for doing this but I still need to research more (from what I've been told you carbonate first in another container and use some attachment to your CO2 tank to purge the bottle of air and transfer the carbonated beverage to the bottles).
http://www.hardwareandtools.com/invt/u616992
Auto-parts stores also carry these (I know for a fact that Advanced Auto Parts has them and I'm sure others do too) for about the same price when you factor in shipping (1.99 for a two pack at Advanced Auto Parts).
Torani, DaVinci, and others, offer dozens of flavors -- both regular and sugar-free. My favorite local restaurant supplier sells it for $3.79 a bottle -- grocery stores are over $5 and a local coffee shop wants $7.50 for the same thing.
My kids especially like raspberry, cherry, and peach soda.
http://www.torani.com
While our low-level of personal consumption does not justify this project, it's a great Instructable!
I had a couple of pitfalls: first and biggest - I bought a brand new shiny aluminum cylinder, took it to my local industrial gas place, asked them to fill it with CO2. They hauled it off, and came back 2 mins later with a filthy old tank. "There you go". Apparently all these places SWAP your cylinder. He said I could *possibly* get my cylinder filled if I waited a week, but even then it might get lost.
I was pissed at first, but whatever. If you do get a cylinder swap, make sure you check the dates stamped on the tank. If there is just one, the first one will be the manufactured (birth) date. If there is more than one, the subsequent ones are the retesting dates. CO2 cylinders must be hydrostatically retested every 5 years. If the gas place tries to give you one that is close to needing a retest, ask for a newer one, because chances are when you try to take it back next time, they won't take it, and you are out $100.
I ended up not installing the ball valve, because my regulator has a valce at the tank end. I may add it later if I get around to an under-cabinet install. The tank is rather bigger than I expected, so I need to shuffle some stuff around.
The other glitch I hit is that while wrenching the air chuck onto the business end, the whole thing came apart, and kinda stopped wotking. Parts America seems to have a great return policy, so I will return for a new one. In the meantime I'm using a non-locking airchuck which works fine, if a little tricker to hold while shaking.
Anyway, sorry for filling up your comments, but I wanted to thank you again for a fantastic, clear, money and environment saving instructable!
It can be hit and miss with the local industrial gas places...some can be a bit shady...
I just picked up a tank and regulator for my parents (who are anxiously awaiting their own setup); I happened to be in the San Diego area, so I swung by BeverageFactory.com's retail outlet and picked it up myself...Thanks again for the tip!
You may be able to exchange the broken chuck at a retail Kragen outlet instead of sending it back to Parts America? See if you can make that fly...
My dad actually happened to find a locking air chuck at Harbor Freight (if you don't know about them already, it's basically the 99 cents store for tools...awesome place...find your local one here...
Thanks again for sharing your process and tips!
http://www.inventionsthatwork.com/carbonator.htm
Not quite as cheap to make as your system but still pretty inexpensive compared to store bought soda. It looks like the cost to build is much less but probably a little more effort to run.