Instructables
This instructable will tell you how I went about building a 12v Solar setup to run my Air Cooler during our hot Summer and a 12v 120 litre Fridge/Freezer during the cooler months.

It will include some of the things I got right and the things I got wrong while building my "Sun Suckers".

Please keep in mind that I am not qualified in this area and that my methods were based on a "research then trial and error" system.
Please use the ideas presented as a guide and improve on them wherever you can.

I won't be covering "in detail" panel building as such but will include helpful stuff (mostly discovered by the afore mentioned "trial and error' ) that wasn't covered in the many panel building Instructables and articles I read while doing my research.
 
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Step 1: Learning. Think beyond today.

Picture of Learning. Think beyond today.
If you spend as much time as I did scouring the web for every bit of information available you'll probably get as confused as I did at first.
There's a lot of good info out there but there's a lot of rubbish too.
As a rule of thumb the greater the number of people say something, the more likely it is to be correct. Usually. But not always.

There are already some "Instructables" on panel building on this and other sites that contain credible and very useful information.

Very few of the articles etc. that I read, however, pointed out the life expectancy of the Solar Cells you'll be using versus the materials used in constructing the DIY panels.
The first Solar cells ever made still produce electricity and look likely to continue doing so for many years to come!
A piece of painted plywood used to mount your Cells on, on the other hand, will have a very limited lifespan under the hot conditions inside a panel.

Most articles I read are concerned with building panels "on the cheap" as I did.
I built more than 300 watts of panels, all on plywood.
I will eventually need to somehow remove the Cells from the plywood and rebuild the panels on something more substantial, not sure what ( or how ) yet....maybe aluminium or Tedlar? Not a job I'm looking forward to but all part of a fairly steep learning curve.

Think outside the square and make Google your friend. A search of "solar panel backing" returned 98000 results including this one.. http://www.treehugger.com/files/2008/08/cotton-castor-beans-combined-solar-panel-bio-backsheet.php

My advice......research thoroughly then do it once and do it right.

Step 2: Choose your materials wisely.

Picture of Choose your materials wisely.
Pristine cells.JPG
Perfect edge.JPG
This is the most critical step.
As mentioned earlier, the materials you choose to construct your panels with will determine it's lifespan.
Don't shortchange your Panels like I did mine
There are commercial products available for mounting Pre Tabbed Cells which include "Tedlar"(R) http://www2.dupont.com/Photovoltaics/en_US/products_services/backsheet/tedlarPVF.html .

#Edited 29th of May 2011#
I now sell sets of high quality, high output 3" x6" and 6" x6" Solar Cells on Ebay.
I also stock all necessary items for Tabbing and Stringing your cells.
I am doing this because of the poor quality of other sellers products.
My items can be seen here: http://shop.ebay.com.au/bigpat004/m.html?_trksid=p4340.l2562

Use 32 to 36 (32 is the minimum for a 12volt panel) of the Highest Amp rating Cells you can afford.

Even using the very best materials your panels will struggle to cost half the price of a commercial panel.

Step 3: Wots Watts?? Tabs?? Which Cells to buy?? Soldering Iron?? Solder??

Watts are calculated by multiplying the voltage of the cell by its rated amperage. Simple.
Well not really.
The formula for say......a panel built using 35 0.55 volt, 3.6 amp cells would be this:
Voltage of each cell (0.55v) X rated Amperage of each cell (3.6a) X 35 cells = 69.3 Watts. A nice sized panel and well worth the effort.
Smaller amperage cells are obviously cheaper but involve the same amount of preparation, construction materials and soldering as bigger output cells do........you work it out (and buy the biggest you can afford).
Untabbed Cells or Tabbed Cells?
Factory "tabbed" cells will have the tabs attached to the front of the cells and should, in theory, save lots of soldering.
This is not always the case.
Factory tabbed cells are generally solder free. The tabs are "tinned" on to the cell rather than soldered.
Of the cells I used about 10% needed the tabs re-attached properly, not an easy job.
Based on my experience I would opt for untabbed Cells and put up with the extra work involved, happy with the knowledge that every tab is connected properly.
Keep in mind that you really must use Pre Tabbed Cells if using the Tedlar backing materials as the Cells sit flush against the Glass.

Keep in mind that the panel is only as good as its worst soldered connection. Make them all as good as you can.
That brings me to the Soldering Iron, the tool that will become your friend (sometimes not) and ally in your efforts to make the world a greener place.
My weapon of choice, after much research, was the Doss 48watt 929B Soldering Station found on eBay (Aus) for about $70 delivered.
It solders well when set near the top of the green range and desolders well at the bottom end of the red range.
Do lots of practice soldering (unless you're already very familiar with soldering) it will make a world of difference. Practice on hard to solder stuff like nickle wire or chromed metals.
Contact me if you want a few scrap cells to practice on.
Check out the instruction manual that came with your Iron....it'll give detailed instruction on how to care for the Tip of the Iron.....very important.

Step 4: Before you Solder.

Picture of Before you Solder.
Rosin Flux Pen.JPG
90ft Lead Free Tab Wire..JPG
The Cells need to be soldered together in what is called Series, that is, the positive side of each cell connected by tab wire to the negative side of its neighbour (see diagram)
To achieve this the (untabbed) Cells all need to be tabbed, that is to have flat Tab wire soldered to the front (negative) side and then to the back (positive) side.

The Solder.
Buy a roll of the thinnest Resin Cored Solder you can find.
Dick Smiths (Aus) sell a good 0.8mm solder at a reasonable price.

Tab Wire..
You may not find flat tinned Tab Wire at your local Electronics store so eBay (USA) could well be your best place to look. That's where I got mine.
It's a flat copper wire tinned on the outside and comes in several thicknesses. I found the thinnest one easier to solder to the Cells.

"A Resin Flux Pen".
This is a Must have.
Try your Electronics store. If they haven't got one they should be able to get you one.
If they can't a Google search will find you a supplier.

The Soldering Iron
Preheat your Soldering Iron to about 270 degrees C. and give it a wipe on the damp sponge that comes with it (a small natural sponge that needs to be just dampened with tap water).

Cut Your Tab Wire to Length.
This is a good time to calculate the number of (eg. 72 for a 36 cell panel) and the length of the tabs you'll need and to cut them to length (or a bit longer....just to be on the safe side).
The length will need to be almost twice the width of the cells to enable it to cover all of the Front Bus and to go across the Back Busses (there will be at least 2 directly behind each Front Bus).

A Small Fan.
You'll be doing a lot of soldering.
The fumes that come off the Resin Flux and the Solder as you're working may not be harmful but.......I'd rather not take the risk.
I mounted a small 12v fan (out of a PC) on my soldering board to take the fumes away from my face.
I made a foot operated switch for it and run it off a transformer.

Holding Your Solder.
You'll be holding your solder for long periods of time.
The Solder contains Lead.
To be on the safe side I run the solder through a thin (red) plastic tube. This acts as a Handle and stops contact with the solder while still allowing easy use.

Step 5: Soldering the Tab Wire to the Cells.

This is where all that Soldering practice will pay big dividends.

Depending on the cells you've bought and the type of panel you're building you may need to solder Tab wire to the Front, the Back or both.

Front busses take more work so I like to do them first. UnfortunatelyI don't have any pics of the process.

Ok....your Irons hot so lets go!
Apply a small amount of flux (with your Resin Flux Pen) along the length of each front Bus.
Starting at one end heat the bus and apply a small amount of solder as flat as you can along it's length.
Place the Tab Wire over the solder and hold it down at the end with your Iron.
Apply a small amount of solder to the Tab Wire where the Iron touches it. As the solder underneath melts move the iron along the Bus applying a little solder as you go.
The Tab should be attached all along the Bus for best results.

Back Busses.
Very similar to Front Busses.
Apply a small amount of Resin Flux to the each Bus, heat them with your Iron for one or two seconds, apply a small amount of Solder and spread it as flat as you can with the Iron while it's still runny , place the Tab over the solder etc. as with the front busses.

Step 6: Choosing Your Construction Materials.

Parts of this step are pretty much a repeat of an earlier step.
I have done this to emphasize the importance of materials choice.

If you can afford it go for the Tedlar products and the best non reflective glass you can get your hands on and follow the instructions that come with the Tedlar materials.
The end product can be mounted on a timber or metal frame.
If you opt for the Tedlar (R) products you will only need to be building a waterproof housing or frame for your panel as the Cells (as I understand the process) are laminated to your glass. The instructions that come with the products will cover the process. Don't hesitate to contact your supplier or Dupont if they are inadequate.
Using Tedlar you have the potential of building "professional" grade panels.
If you use this Product please write an instructable on your experiences.

If your budget doesn't stretch that far simply pop "solar panel" in the instructables search bar and sort through the existing works till you find one that uses the materials you can afford.

Some things to keep in mind.
*To fail to prepare is to prepare to fail.....sounds corny but it's true....especially if you're using painted timber and/or plywood.
That was the big mistake I made with my first panel. I used "been sitting around the shed for years" paint, didn't use a timber sealer primer, used crappy undercoat and even worse topcoat.
After only 3 months the paint had deteriorated and the ply started to crack.

*Use the very best enamel paint you can afford and use multiple coats.
Every bit of protection you can give your timber will add years to the life of your panels.

*If you opt for Perspex rather than Glass for the front make it removable.
It will discolour over time and need replacing.
Mine is attached with 75mm wide Self Adhering Aluminium Flashing (from Bunnings). It sticks really well and is wide enough to seal the edges and sides of the panel.
When warm/hot this stuff is really sticky and a bit hard to handle. Whack it in the fridge (make room by taking a Beer out) for about as long as it takes to drink the aforementioned Beer. Just coincidence I promise.

*Perspex bends when it gets hot and it Will get hot when your panel is out there sucking sun.
I found it necessary to attach 3 or 4 1cm plastic stoppers (see picture "Stoppers") between cells on one panel and a Cork (see Pic "Cork on another to prevent the perspex touching, and possibly damaging, the cells.

*Perspex also reacts badly with the fumes from Clear Silicon so make sure any Silicon used inside the panel is totally dry before the perspex goes on.
That was my second big mistake. In my hurry to my first 70watt panel finished I attached the Perspex too soon resulting in damage to the inside surface of the perspex which reduced the performance of the Cells.
I have to replace it in the near future.

*Adequate Ventilation.
In our climate, inland Australia, the panels get extremely hot inside.
Plan really well for good airflow (I put vents at top and bottom of the back of the panel but more would be better see picture ) , even consider small 12volt fans to pull more air through (they could be powered by the panel itself).
The cooler the Cells are kept the higher the output

Step 7: Building Your Panels.

Picture of Building Your Panels.
My blog at http://diysolarpanels.blogspot.com/ is pretty much a description of my Panel Building experiences from my first few Panels.
In it I give details on joining cells correctly and constructing panels on a tight budget.

Step 8: After the Panels are Built.

Picture of After the Panels are Built.
Batteries (3).JPG
Molex Connectors..JPG
12volt Fridge.JPG
12v Air Cooler.JPG
Now that you have built and tested your panel/s you need to harness all that Free electricity you're suddenly producing.

Solar Controller.

The Controller is the brains of the system.
Your panels charge your batteries through it and it supplies that power to your appliances.
It controls the amount of charge that goes to your Battery Bank and protects your batteries from damage.
In my case I use 12v controllers and appliances but 12v panels can also be used to make a 24v, 36v, or 48v system.
Choose one of a voltage that suits your application.
You also need to calculate the total amp output from your panels and buy a controller rated to handle at least that amperage (keep in mind that you may wish to add panels to your system in the future).

The Battery Bank/s

I started with 1 x 12volt 85amp hour Deep Cycle battery and added another 5 from Alco Batteries in Wagga Wagga as funds allowed. They are joined in Parallel (positive to positive).
This gave me a 510amp hour bank which is being charged by 210 watts of panels.
eBay struck again and I found myself the new owner of 6 x 2volt 225amp hour batteries. These are joined in Series (positive to negative) to give 12v.
They're ex telecom style deep cycle batteries out of a communications system UPS (emergency power supply).
These batteries are a great starting point as they're cheap (or should be) and still have a few years of life in them if looked after properly.
Mine had some Sulphation on the plates but that disappeared after a few days of charging from my panels.
Sulphation occurs when the batteries are left flat for a long period of time and is frequently reversible but not always.
To charge this set of Batteries I built a 90watt Panel and bought another controller and now have an emergency backup power supply for the 12volt appliances.

Connecting Wire.

You might think that only being 12v your system need only use thin wire (ie: speaker wire).
Not True.
The thicker the better.
Because 12v doesn't have much "push" to get it along the wires you need to spread the effort as much as you can when any distance over 1 meter or so is involved.
If you don't the resistance will cause serious voltage drop and will cause the wires to heat up.
Several house fires have been caused by wires overheating to the extent of short circuiting.
Once again it's a case of doing your research then, keeping safety in mind, buying the best you can afford.
I used "Molex" connectors (recycled from old PC's) and 2.5mm wire to join my panels to the system.
The appliances connect to the controller Load output through very very thick car "boomf boomf" subwoofer cable (I had to solder a small length of 2.5mm wire to the end so it could attach to the controller)..

Step 9: The LED Solar Tracker.

Your Panels will produce much (30 to 60%) more electricity when they're kept pointing directly at the Sun as opposed to sitting in the one position all the time.
To achieve this you need to buy or build a Solar Tracker and mount your panels on it.
You have 2 choices here....you can opt for a "Dual Axis" tracker that will follow the Sun from East to West then, when the Sun goes down, return to face East again for Sunrise and will also adjust the North South (in the Southern Hemisphere) angle to cater for Seasonal change.
Choice 2 is to do as I did and build a Single Axis tracker that I can alter the North South angle of manually.
The LED Solar Sensor Unit uses 2 Red LEDs to detect the position of the Sun.
The innovation here is not mine.
I bought the Actuator and the Sensor unit from Dave at http://campatracka.com/index.html .
Dave's a really helpful bloke who's health doesn't always let him build his units as fast as he would like. He's a fair dinkum Aussie who'll give it his best shot so support him.
When ordering please bear this in mind and be Patient.....the units are well worth any wait.

To test run the Actuator and Sensor units before committing myself to too much spending I built my Prototype tracker using my DIY 90 watt Panel.
When I was satisfied that it was a good investment, which didn't take long, I built the bigger unit to house the 3 X 70 watt and the 90 watt panels.

Step 10: Building My Demountable Tracker.

This is a very basic "no frills" Dodgy brothers style of tracker......but it works.

Because I'm old I'll be giving most measurements in Imperial measure. A good converter can be found here http://www.helpwithdiy.com/metric_conversion_calculator.html

As I mentioned earlier I bought my Actuator and Sensor unit from Dave at http://campatracka.com/index.html
The Actuator is an 18 inch, 90 pound thrust 12v electric Ram.
The Sensor Unit is an East-West unit with automatic darkness return to East.

Building the Demountable Tracker.
As I'm in rented accommodation I had to build the tracker to be demountable.
My methods and materials will differ to an extent when I rebuild it as a permanent rooftop unit (when we finish renovating the house we own). The Star Picket Posts, for instance, will be replaced by an angle Iron Frame.

The Materials
1 X 10ft Farm Gate..
1 x 12ft length of 1" Galvanized Pipe.
1 x 10ft length of 2" Gal Pipe.
2 x 6ft Star Picket fence posts These can be replaced by lengths of 2" heavy gal pipe if desired.
1 x Right angle Shelf Bracket.
1 x Packet of 1/4 inch x 2 inch gal bolts, nuts and washers.
1 x Packet of 1/4 inch washers.
1 x 3/16th inch? (depends on the hole in your actuator ram) x 2 inch bolt with 2 extra nuts and washers. This bolt is for the end of your actuator ram so check the size first.
Heavy Poly pipe or similar for spacers.
Various bits and pieces for attaching the bottom of the Actuator to the post.

The Method

The 2'" Gal pipe is welded to the centre of the "back" of the Gate. (the side the mesh is Not welded to).
I have not included close up photo's of my welding lest you be overcome with mirth..

To make the unit not seasonally adjustable as I did the 2 Picket Posts are hammered vertically into the ground about 10ft 6" apart on a North South alignment.
The 1" pipe and posts are drilled, the 1' pipe slid into the 2" pipe (if necessary a Spacer slid on to prevent the gate touching the post) and the 1" pipe is bolted to the Picket Posts.

To make the unit seasonally adjustable the Equator end of the unit needs to be able to be lifted up and down to keep the panels pointing as directly at the sun as possible all year.
To achieve this you will need to put that end post in the ground on an angle so that the 1" pipe can be lowered and still be bolted to the post.

The following is Theory only and has not been tested.
Hammer the non equator end post vertically into the ground. A foot or so should be far enough.
Drill a hole at least 1/4" dia in one end of the 1" pipe about 3" from the end.
Drill a 1/4" hole through the stationary end post 2" from the top.

You can find the angle your adjustable end post needs by bolting the 1" pipe loosely at the other end and resting the unattached end on the ground.
Put the end of your post on the ground a few inches along the 1" pipe and mark the pipe.
Correction....I woke up with a start at about 3 this morning (yep ...weird I know) with the realization that the bottom hole on the post will need to be approximately half the width of the gate up from the ground. If it's not then the gate won't have enough room to do it's East West thing.....

Have a helper lift the 1" pipe halfway up the post and mark the pipe again then lift it to the horizontal position and line the top end of the post up with the mark you made.
Hammer the post into the ground keeping it lined up with that mark.

Drill 2 holes, one at each mark through the adjustable end of the 1" pipe. Make sure they line up with each other.
Drill the same size hole through your post 2 inches from the top.
Drill 2 holes down the length of the angled post, one near the centre and one near the ground.
Find the exact positions by lining the up with the holes in your 1" pipe.
These will be your seasonal adjustments.
Cut 2 Spacers. Refer to Diagram2. This spacer will stop your gate from touching the post.

The 1" pipe is slid into the 2" pipe, the spacer put in place, the gate is lifted up and the 1" pipe bolted to the posts.

Attaching the Actuator to the gate is done via the Bookshelf bracket.
The bracket on my unit attaches to the end of the gate about 8" from the side. See Diagram 3.
The "leg" of the Bookshelf Bracket not attached to the gate is twisted at right angles to allow it to be attached to the Ram.
The bottom of the Actuator attaches to the Post about 32" down from the Gate.
These distances are another Trial and Error thing. Experiment till you find the positions that allow the Actuator to move the gate from a morning position facing Sunrise to an Evening position facing Sunset.
You Must use a method of attachment that allows the actuator to move at each end.
At the end of the Ram I achieved this by using 2 nuts tightened against each other either side of the Bookshelf bracket, See Diagram 4.

A lot of head scratching and shed searching went into the bottom attachment.
I was lucky enough to have a bolt like part that suited the job at hand. See Diagram 5.
I don't know what it's called or where to buy one but I do believe it's an auto part of some sort. The head part is about 1" dia and the bolt is 5/16"dia and about 2" long. The hole needs to be able to accommodate a 1/4" bolt at least.
If you've made it this far you'll work it out.
Maybe Dave at http://campatracka.com/ can suggest something.

The Sensor Unit.
My unit did not come in a weatherproof casing. To overcome this I Temporarily I mounted it to the Gate in a "Tupperware" type clear plastic container.
I drilled and screwed the lid to the gate at a right angle and drilled another hole in the lid for the units mounting screw.
Two holes are cut in the bottom of the container for the wires and the container simply attaches to its lid.
I intend building a box out of Perspex to house the Sensor unit permanently.

My Tracker unit is Powered by an old car battery which I trickle charge with a small Solar Panel.
A small 12v deep cycle battery such as those found in kids Electric Scooters would be perfect and should only cost $20 or so new.
Alternatively you can power from your controller.

Once the unit was finished I braced the posts with Wire "Guys" using some large Tent Pegs and some recycled fencing wire. See Diagram 6

Step 11: Update.

Tuesday 16th June.
A lovely sunny winters day had me outside making my tracker Seasonally adjustable.

I didn't do it quite as I thought I would.
I simplified things a bit.
I utilized the holes already in the Picket Post and opted for a 2 position setup.
Up near the top of the post for Summer and about 2/3rds of the way down the post for Winter.
It's not perfect but it will increase the total daily output of my panels during Winter by enough to make it well worth the effort.

The rope in the pic was a "safety harness" used while I was doing the constructing and has since been removed..

Step 12: Some Benefits.

Picture of Some Benefits.
Producing even a small part of your households electricity with panels you have made yourself has some flow-on effects.

In our house the Electricity Bill dropped much more than the amount my panels produce.
The very process of building the panels and setup, by default, involved the whole family in one way or another.

A net result of this was an increased awareness in all family members of their personal electricity use.
The changes were not earth shattering...just simple stuff like changing to efficient light globes, turning lights out when leaving rooms, shorter showers (sometimes :~( ), turning the TV etc. off at the wall, turning computers off at night.
Add that to the savings given by changing the Air Conditioner to Solar and you start to make a difference.
For the past 2 years each of our electricity bills has been as much as 25% lower than the corresponding bill from the year before.
We actually get a "Thank You" from our Supplier, Country Energy, and the bill details the Carbon Emission Savings etc.

Don't be fooled by ads, trying to sell you Solar Panel building kits etc., that claim you'll save 95% off your power bill by building a panel or 2. Simply not true.

!000watts of fixed, grid tied, Solar panels will directly save about 25% of the average Aussie familys electricity costs. You can double (or better) this by opting for a Tracker system.
Extrapolating on that equation a 2000 watt grid tied Tracking setup should cover most of a households electricity costs and, if you change electric hot water to Solar Hot Water, you might even make money from the power your panels produce.

Step 13: Grid Tied or Batteries?

Picture of Grid Tied or Batteries?
A Grid Tied system, as most commercial systems are, feeds the electricity you produce into the mains through an inverter that needs to be installed by a licensed electrician.
You receive credits from your supplier for the amount of electricity you produce. This electricity is then on-sold to consumers as Green electricity at a premium.
This setup has advantages and disadvantages.
One advantage being you don't have to buy and upkeep a Battery Bank,
One disadvantage is that if the mains go down you're down too.

A hybrid system is possible but will also need professional installation.
This is a Battery system that diverts the power to the grid when the batteries are fully charged and appliances are not running.


Step 14: Insurance.

Insurance Company's may require an inspection of any 12 volt wiring installed DIY. It would pay to ask.
Add your Panels, Batteries etc to your household content Insurance cover.

Step 15: That's about it.

Now all you have to do is get out there and Do It.

I'll be updating this instructable as new ideas emerge and suggestions come in.
I hope you've enjoyed the read and have gained a little from it.
I hope I've inspired you to give it a go.
All the Best.
Rob.
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ppereira142 months ago

I was looking for a higher capacity Solar System (400W or more). I found a really nice instructable. Heres a linkhttp://www.instructables.com/id/Apartment-Solar-System/

Countryone1 year ago
Anyone with knowledge on off grid solar setups? Looking for quality 2,500 -3,000 watt range inverter.... PLEASE if know of one that's not thousands of dollars tell me! Thanks
Look at Xantrex ProWatt 2000. Mine has worked for years and was $340ish via West Marine.
Akmal2501 year ago
hi, thank you for your great information
i need to some details for solar system
first one
bulb -10
fans -04
Air conti-01
TV-01
fridge-01

how many watt this want?
but this also 220V .
please tell me
Rob Patterson (author)  Akmal2501 year ago
Hi Akmal;
18 watt high efficiency light bulbs produce the equivalent to 60 watt incandescent so 10 of them = 180 watts.
My multi speed house fan uses 50 watts x 4 = 200 watts.
My 22 inch LCD TV uses 65 watts.
A refrigerator, when the compressor is running, uses between 200 and 500 watts depending on size and energy rating.
An air conditioner will use up to 6000 watts depending on its size. Have a look at my instructable "How I Use The Sun To Cool My House" for ideas on converting a 240 volt electricity guzzler to a 12 volt very efficient unit.
Please note that you will lose some of your panels output when running 12 volts through a 12v to 220v inverter.
I hope this is of some help Akmal.
Best regards.
Rob.
I have researched over the internet and found a informative blog
where an American Engineer Explain everything about Solar Panel
Look through his Blog about DIY Solar Panels
eowens2 years ago
http://www.thebackshed.com/Windmill/articles/OzSolarPanels.asp This is the only site I have seen that shows how to build pro quality panels for the diy'er.
On line with your statements that the materials make the difference if the budget allows you should consider going to Anderson Powerpole gear for the power distribution. I use them on my ham radio gear (20+amp draw on full power) and set my father up when he wired his sailboat. They are low resistance and can handle more power and larger wires than your standard pc-molex connectors and are easier to insulate from the environment. They also have products such as a pre-made bus for linking multiple things into a single backbone. If I were building one of these for long term I would definitely look into these.
cararta3 years ago
A lot of interesting work. I need really detailed instructions. I'm setting up a website about Solar to help spread the word. We need to get off our duffs and get this done. Depending on unfriendly other countries for our energy is out. You can check it out at http://skippersbestbuy.com/ . Found a guy from Minnesota who is selling plans for solar and wind....says it cost him less than three months electric bill to quit paying an electric bill and have the electric company begin paying him....Cararta
Rob Patterson (author)  cararta2 years ago
Hi carata;
People make some unrealistic claims about how cheaply you can convert to solar power....like the "less than 3 months electricity bills" claim.
As for grid tied DIY solar....I'm not sure that would be possible. The safety issues would most likely prevent it. Nothing wrong with a "stand alone" setup like mine where the panels charge a bank of batteries. Independence is a nice thing, especially when the grid goes down and your air cooler is the only one working on a 45 C (108 Fahrenheit) day
Whatever the cost we Do need to get off our duffs and get it done regardless of where we live and who our fossil fuels come from.
Here in Aus there's a big stink at the moment because our government has done the right thing and put a price on carbon emissions as a step down the road to ending our reliance on fossil fuels and turning to clean, green energy sources.
Selfish people do tend to make the most noise.
Email me at heppycamper@dodo.com with any more inquiries.
Best regards.
Rob.
caarntedd3 years ago
This is a good detailed instructable. I've been thinking about offsetting some of my power bill with a system that isn't tied to the grid and supplies the air con or fridge or hot water or something. I know there must be a better way than buying the commercial stuff. Thanks.

Where are you located in country NSW?
Rob Patterson (author)  caarntedd3 years ago
Hi caarntedd;
Thanks for your positive comment.
I'm in Bethungra, a little village in the Southwest slopes.
It is most satisfying building panels and supplying even a fraction of your own energy.
It becomes even more satisfying on a 45 deg C day when the power grid goes down and your aircon is the only one working!
Go for it.
If you're interested I have sets of cells for sale that will make nice 150 watt panels.
Best regards.
Rob.
LVGene4 years ago
Credits from your supplier?  .. ummmm  You really need to KNOW what your LOCAL power company policies are. 

Personally I would ask for everything on paper.  No Telephone calls.


Rob Patterson (author)  LVGene4 years ago
Hi LVGene;
In my area of Australia the govt has set a price (60 cents) per unit (kilowatt hour) that the suppliers must pay you for the power you produce.
To the question of Grid tied or Battery.......
The answer is Both, if possible. It's quite satisfying to be sitting in the cool comfort of your "solar" aircon or grabbing a cold beer out of your "Solar" fridge during a blackout on a 45 deg C summer day. If you go solely grid tied you lose this flexibility and when the grid goes down so do you.
Cheers.
Rob.
Good going Rob..  But as I wrote in the above message.  You need to check with your local power companies to see what is going on. 

Sounds like I need to live in AU.  Here in Las Vegas NV USA.. we are paying nearly the highest price for power in the US.  1.21 per KWH.  

Because of medical problems.. I have a very hard time with the HEAT.  Last years power for my home and A/C was over $500 USD a month!!   Inside we kept the temp around 77.

-------------

I bought my friend a Wind Turbine (missouriwindandsolar  -dot- com) for around $700.   It is a 1000 Watt (up to 1400 watt) Custom LOW WIND turbine. (how cool is that!)  Going to set it up on his Rural property and see how good it really is.  $700 is a very low price for such a turbine! 

If his performs well over the next 6 plus months.  I'll see about installing one on my home here in Vegas.   I live very NORTH here in the Valley.  We get a lot of wind up here.  So the investment = returns should be better than solar.  The only problem is maintenance.   Solar when grid tied is usually maintenance free.

Thanks for the reply.

GENE
cboz LVGene3 years ago
Hello LV Gene,

How has the wind turbine been performing? It been almost six months.

Any info would be appreciated
LVGene cboz3 years ago
Man.. so much for the Holidays. Sorry for the really late reply!

The wind turbine continues to work AOK.

Unfortunately the way its wired up.. (there are solar panels on another circuit) I'm not able to see how much power it brings in.

I'd like to add that any owner would most likely have to:

Do a close visual inspection of the turbine. Make sure all the nuts are still tight. And re-grease it. At least once a year.
------------

Our air conditioner finally died in November 2011. We got an incredible DEAL at only $6500 installed. Costco was hawking a place that wanted almost twice as much for less. Go Costco huh?

Since the replacement.. Our power bills have dropped to the lowest they have ever been. It isn't summer yet.. I'm sure that we will be nearly HALF of what it was last year. $$$$$ SAVE MONEY check your existing air conditioner.. etc.

I really want to move into an EARTHSHIP home. Check that out. earthship.com. No utility bills. Totally off grid.

If our finances come together.. me and the wife may do that. Get the hell out of Vegas and move to Taos NM.
Rob Patterson (author)  LVGene4 years ago
Hi Gene;
The wind turbine was a bargain and probably the best gift ever!
Is it up and running yet? I'd like to know how it performs.
I bought a 300-500 watt Chinese built one a year or so ago but failed to take into account the wind turbulence where I lived. It needs an even breeze to perform at its best.
I'll get it set up one day.... somewhere.
Cheers Gene.
Rob.

Hi Rob, You might be interested in this VAWT Jaycar (Aus) now sell (cat MG-4570 $400), it's really meant for 4WD and camping but could work as a small home system. It's only 50W but being VAWT wind disturbances have little effect. I'm getting one when I save up a bit. : )
Rob...

Man I am SO SORRY for not getting back to U sooner.  I've been either SICK.. laid up in bed for weeks.  Or crazy busy.  In fact I'm running out the door for a frantic 7 day business trip.

We did Indeed get the 1000 low wind turbine up and running.
http://www.missouriwindandsolar.com/Diagrams_Facts_sheets.html

It went up just as advertised.  The sellers are pretty unique.. AND their product is what it is.  In this case you DO get what you pay for.  That aside..  It is a very GOOD low wind generator!  It "Does the job" that much higher cost generators do.  I highly recommend it.. if you follow their (crummy) instructions to the letter.  Use their suggested Welding cable (remember I'm not a tech person) etc.

My friend who I gifted it to.. is going to replace the wire (he was trying to save money piecing together several wires.. now he is going to use ONE LONG wire).  Duh..  Trying to save a nickel cost us probably 10 hours of sweat!

To directly answer YOUR question.. This requires 6-8 MPH to get ANY power going.  Which compared to OTHER systems is fantastic.  Most won't even kick in until the turbine spins up to 25 - 30 mph. 

Missouriwinandsolar.com are the REAL deal.. and I suggest you give them a go.  But like I wrote above.. please PLEASE don't cut any corners.  Use the right wire.  Their choice for Pipe is a good one..  They bring a lot of direct experience to the table.. use it.

Take care.. got to run!

GENE


You are not suppose to scrape off that white stuff on cells. They say it is silver.
Rob Patterson (author)  James Doolen3 years ago
Thanks for your comment James;
The white stuff I was referring to was a light build up of corrosion, which covered the silver.
Thank you.
Rob.
sbdesigns3 years ago
Dodgy Bros. Classic!
Rob Patterson (author)  sbdesigns3 years ago
Thank you...I think......And....Go the Doggies!
Cheers.
Rob.
tbone563 years ago
Rob,
Thanks for sharing this instructable.
I have a question about the solar tracking.
Generally, do the panels rotate on only 1 axis or do they need to move on 2?
Tom
Rob Patterson (author)  tbone563 years ago
G'day Tom;
A dual axis tracker will point the panels in exactly the optimum direction all day but cost became a limiting factor for me ( a 3 panel one sold on ebay a few days ago for $700 including freight, I could build a kilowatt of panels for that much :-) ).
I opted to build mine so that the day to day following of the sun is done by the tracker and the seasonal adjustment is done manually by me.
This probably loses me a small percentage of output but, them's the breaks.
Cheers Tom.
Rob.

zipknitter4 years ago
This looks like a great project. We were given about 50 of the small solar panels that are used on electric fence chargers and have put a couple of them to use as radio chargers for the big boombox radios I like, but have a lot that we just couldn't figure out how to use. Would like to wire them in series, but everything we've read says that it would be foolish to use such low powered panels. Do you think we could use them in a project like this or would we just be wasting our time? We have 43 of them that some local ranchers gave us when they upgraded.
Rob Patterson (author)  zipknitter4 years ago
G'day zipknitter; Thank you very much for your question. As you know if you wire your cells in series you will multiply the voltage output and your amperage will remain the same. Using your Multimeter test your cells in full sun to determine the output in volts and then in amperes. Multiply those figures to determine the potential output in Watts. Say for example your cells average a reading of 0.5 volts and 0.5 amps (500ma). Using the best 36 of the cells your panel could achieve a potential 9 watts at 18 volts. Nice for charging a 12 volt battery. I strongly recommend that, whatever the numbers, you go ahead and build a panel with your cells. It might not cure the worlds energy needs but it Will produce energy and it Will be a great training run for you to go on to build bigger and better panels. I hope this answer is helpful and please don't hesitate to contact me if I can be of any further assistance. All the very best. Rob.
feweeks4 years ago
 Medium Density Overlay (MDO) might work as an alternative to plywood. It's used in making highway signs and is available at home stores.
Medium Density Overlay IS plywood, with a paper face overlaid on the plywood substrate with an exterior grade adhesive to make it paintable.
StuNutt4 years ago
We're not supposed to use Tin/Lead solder these days - the lead is toxic. However, I can never get decent joints with this "new-fangled" alloy, and the tube for hte tin/lead solder is a bonza idea!
Rob Patterson (author)  StuNutt4 years ago
G'day StuNutt; Thanks for your comment. Lead is indeed toxic and it is also a cumulative poison and should be treated as such. All possible care should be taken when handling the stuff. I'm stoked you like my way of overcoming the handling issue, sometimes simple is good :-). I struggle with the lead free solder and have achieved my best results using more heat, 300 to 330 deg C, and heating the metal to be soldered then applying the solder directly to it. As opposed to applying the heat to the metal and solder at the same time. Cheers. Rob.
Even using a small gas torch I have trouble soldering copper with the lead-free. As I'm over 60 now (!) I think I'll stay with Tin/Lead and just take a few sensible precautions. During my life so far I've probably been exposed to far more poisons already! Thanks.
As I understand it lead/tin solder is only illegal for use in consumer products for sale. Used for personal projects and repairs it is just fine, and if used in a well ventilated area as any type of solder should be, it posses no significant hazard. I have enough of the stuff that I will probably never have to switch to the lead free solder for my projects.
Rob Patterson (author)  MadCobbler4 years ago
G'day MadCobbler; Thanks for your comment. I agree with what you say. As far as we know Lead based solder should be safe if used as you say and not handled without protection. The lessons learned from Mawsons Antarctic expedition, where the canned food supply was contaminated by the kead solder used in the manufacture of the cans, are a stark reminder of the danger that lead can pose. Cheers. Rob.
Rob Patterson (author) 4 years ago
Hi everybody; I'd like to send a big thank you to all who have taken the time to read my instructables. When I wrote them I never anticipated that they would share more than 100,000 hits in the first year. I'd also like to thank "Instructables" for providing the site which allows me, and thousands like me, to share our experiences with you. I hope I have inspired at least a few of you to build your own systems. Cheers. Rob.
gwaligorski4 years ago
What are you using as your battery charger?
Rob Patterson (author)  gwaligorski4 years ago
Hi PRO gwaligorski; If I'm understanding your question correctly you will find the information you seek in steps 8 and 9 of the instructible. A full description of how I built the solar panels is here --- http://diysolarpanels.blogspot.com/ --- on the Blog I wrote about the experience. The posts are best read bottom one first to get the order of events right. Cheers. Rob.
Skai4 years ago
Hey, I'm really happy that you are so commited to this and have gone through a real journey. This is something I, and a lot of people, dream of doing, and honestly a lot of people are scared and need the experience of someone like you. I have come across this and I'm starting to learn a lot more about solar energy and I really really want to add solar power to where I live as soon as I can. I have a question - you say that tedlar can enable you to create a "professional" grade solar panel, but I'm wondering exactly what that means for the average person out there. Do you have any idea how much energy or efficiency you would get out of tedlar? Would you mind comparing it to the cheaper materials you have mentioned? Thank you very much duke
Rob Patterson (author)  Skai4 years ago
G'day Skai; Thanks for your kind comments and question. I'm not sure that the Tedlar laminating process would enhance the performance of your DIY panels but it would most certainly extend the panels life span by a huge amount (compared to a plywood based panel). The type of glass you use will make a difference as will your ability to provide good ventilation within the panel. Non reflective glass will allow more light to hit your cells. More light = more energy produced. Ventilation is important as solar cells produce less energy when they are hot. I encourage everyone thinking of building panels to look around and buy the best materials they can afford. Cheers. Rob.
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