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Step 7Choosing Your Construction Materials.
Parts of this step are pretty much a repeat of an earlier step.
I have done this to emphasize the importance of materials choice.
If you can afford it go for the Tedlar products and the best non reflective glass you can get your hands on and follow the instructions that come with the Tedlar materials.
The end product can be mounted on a timber or metal frame.
If you opt for the Tedlar (R) products you will only need to be building a waterproof housing or frame for your panel as the Cells (as I understand the process) are laminated to your glass. The instructions that come with the products will cover the process. Don't hesitate to contact your supplier or Dupont if they are inadequate.
Using Tedlar you have the potential of building "professional" grade panels.
If you use this Product please write an instructable on your experiences.
If your budget doesn't stretch that far simply pop "solar panel" in the instructables search bar and sort through the existing works till you find one that uses the materials you can afford.
Some things to keep in mind.
*To fail to prepare is to prepare to fail.....sounds corny but it's true....especially if you're using painted timber and/or plywood.
That was the big mistake I made with my first panel. I used "been sitting around the shed for years" paint, didn't use a timber sealer primer, used crappy undercoat and even worse topcoat.
After only 3 months the paint had deteriorated and the ply started to crack.
*Use the very best enamel paint you can afford and use multiple coats.
Every bit of protection you can give your timber will add years to the life of your panels.
*If you opt for Perspex rather than Glass for the front make it removable.
It will discolour over time and need replacing.
Mine is attached with 75mm wide Self Adhering Aluminium Flashing (from Bunnings). It sticks really well and is wide enough to seal the edges and sides of the panel.
When warm/hot this stuff is really sticky and a bit hard to handle. Whack it in the fridge (make room by taking a Beer out) for about as long as it takes to drink the aforementioned Beer. Just coincidence I promise.
*Perspex bends when it gets hot and it Will get hot when your panel is out there sucking sun.
I found it necessary to attach 3 or 4 1cm plastic stoppers (see picture "Stoppers") between cells on one panel and a Cork (see Pic "Cork on another to prevent the perspex touching, and possibly damaging, the cells.
*Perspex also reacts badly with the fumes from Clear Silicon so make sure any Silicon used inside the panel is totally dry before the perspex goes on.
That was my second big mistake. In my hurry to my first 70watt panel finished I attached the Perspex too soon resulting in damage to the inside surface of the perspex which reduced the performance of the Cells.
I have to replace it in the near future.
*Adequate Ventilation.
In our climate, inland Australia, the panels get extremely hot inside.
Plan really well for good airflow (I put vents at top and bottom of the back of the panel but more would be better see picture ) , even consider small 12volt fans to pull more air through (they could be powered by the panel itself).
The cooler the Cells are kept the higher the output
I have done this to emphasize the importance of materials choice.
If you can afford it go for the Tedlar products and the best non reflective glass you can get your hands on and follow the instructions that come with the Tedlar materials.
The end product can be mounted on a timber or metal frame.
If you opt for the Tedlar (R) products you will only need to be building a waterproof housing or frame for your panel as the Cells (as I understand the process) are laminated to your glass. The instructions that come with the products will cover the process. Don't hesitate to contact your supplier or Dupont if they are inadequate.
Using Tedlar you have the potential of building "professional" grade panels.
If you use this Product please write an instructable on your experiences.
If your budget doesn't stretch that far simply pop "solar panel" in the instructables search bar and sort through the existing works till you find one that uses the materials you can afford.
Some things to keep in mind.
*To fail to prepare is to prepare to fail.....sounds corny but it's true....especially if you're using painted timber and/or plywood.
That was the big mistake I made with my first panel. I used "been sitting around the shed for years" paint, didn't use a timber sealer primer, used crappy undercoat and even worse topcoat.
After only 3 months the paint had deteriorated and the ply started to crack.
*Use the very best enamel paint you can afford and use multiple coats.
Every bit of protection you can give your timber will add years to the life of your panels.
*If you opt for Perspex rather than Glass for the front make it removable.
It will discolour over time and need replacing.
Mine is attached with 75mm wide Self Adhering Aluminium Flashing (from Bunnings). It sticks really well and is wide enough to seal the edges and sides of the panel.
When warm/hot this stuff is really sticky and a bit hard to handle. Whack it in the fridge (make room by taking a Beer out) for about as long as it takes to drink the aforementioned Beer. Just coincidence I promise.
*Perspex bends when it gets hot and it Will get hot when your panel is out there sucking sun.
I found it necessary to attach 3 or 4 1cm plastic stoppers (see picture "Stoppers") between cells on one panel and a Cork (see Pic "Cork on another to prevent the perspex touching, and possibly damaging, the cells.
*Perspex also reacts badly with the fumes from Clear Silicon so make sure any Silicon used inside the panel is totally dry before the perspex goes on.
That was my second big mistake. In my hurry to my first 70watt panel finished I attached the Perspex too soon resulting in damage to the inside surface of the perspex which reduced the performance of the Cells.
I have to replace it in the near future.
*Adequate Ventilation.
In our climate, inland Australia, the panels get extremely hot inside.
Plan really well for good airflow (I put vents at top and bottom of the back of the panel but more would be better see picture ) , even consider small 12volt fans to pull more air through (they could be powered by the panel itself).
The cooler the Cells are kept the higher the output
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Jul 12, 2010. 4:12 PMSkai
says:
Hey, I'm really happy that you are so commited to this and have gone through a real journey. This is something I, and a lot of people, dream of doing, and honestly a lot of people are scared and need the experience of someone like you. I have come across this and I'm starting to learn a lot more about solar energy and I really really want to add solar power to where I live as soon as I can. I have a question - you say that tedlar can enable you to create a "professional" grade solar panel, but I'm wondering exactly what that means for the average person out there. Do you have any idea how much energy or efficiency you would get out of tedlar? Would you mind comparing it to the cheaper materials you have mentioned? Thank you very much duke
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Jul 26, 2010. 4:43 PM
Rob Patterson (author)
says:
Rob Patterson (author)
says:
G'day Skai; Thanks for your kind comments and question. I'm not sure that the Tedlar laminating process would enhance the performance of your DIY panels but it would most certainly extend the panels life span by a huge amount (compared to a plywood based panel). The type of glass you use will make a difference as will your ability to provide good ventilation within the panel. Non reflective glass will allow more light to hit your cells. More light = more energy produced. Ventilation is important as solar cells produce less energy when they are hot. I encourage everyone thinking of building panels to look around and buy the best materials they can afford. Cheers. Rob.
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