DIY TV-B-Gone SHP (And Save $45)

A while ago I posted my $3.50 DIY TV-B-Gone Micro, which was great and all but didn't have near enough juice. The TV-B-Gone SHP is supposed to be able to turn of TVs from 100 meters away, but cost $50. So for about $5, I made a clone of one that seems to work pretty close to that limit. It's also very tiny compared to the commercial one.

Technically, because TV-B-Gone is a brand name, this is a "TV-B-Gone clone."

I used an ATtiny 85v as the "brains" of this, programmed with Adafruit's original code. It runs off of a 9v battery with a 5v regulator to power the microcontroller. The the LED array has 12 infrared LEDs in it, and the microcontroller is connected to a transistor that can power the whole array. The 12 LEDs blast out almost every TV on-off code, allowing you to turn pretty much any TV on or off. A 3mm green LED blinks between each code to show that it's working. When the battery is removed it is significantly smaller than the original TV-B-Gone, allowing for easy hiding.

Also, I'm entering in the microcontroller contest. If you think I'm worthy enough, give me a vote!

Step 1: Materials

Materials

Each name is a link to a Mouser part you can click (you don't have to use Mouser, I just like them because of great service and how close to my house they are).

• 9v battery clip
• ATtiny 85v microcontroller - $1.82
• 5v voltage regulator - $0.37 (I used a small 78L05 100ma package, a larger 7805 one would work but take up more space)
• NPN transistor - $0.10
• 2x 150 ohm resistor - $0.05 each (One of them is optional for the LED)
• 22uf capacitor - $0.06 (Pretty much any value close to or higher than this will work)
• Small pushbutton - $0.29 (This is slightly different than the one I used)
• 8MHz resonator - $0.50
• 3mm LED - $0.06 (Optional)
• 6x Narrow-beam IR LEDs - $0.18 each
• 6x Wide-beam IR LEDs  - $0.19 each

You could also use an IC socket if you want to be extra careful with your chip or think you might reprogram it in the future.

Tools:

• AVR programmer (I used a USBtinyISP, a good, cheap programmer made from a kit)
• Computer with internet access; I predict you are using one right now :-)
• Soldering iron with solder
• Helping hands tools, very, VERY helpful (probably required for this project)

Now let's start making!

Comments

[jcksparr0w]

Just wondering why there are so many LEDs. More LEDs = More power? More reliability?

[jcksparr0w]

If i were to change the ir LED assembly to say 5w 940nm High Power Infrared IR LED or 2, how might i need to change the circuit? if you do not have the spare time or if this is a complete rebuild i totally understand if you cannot do this. Thanks!

[qquuiinn]

Still waiting for someone to make a version that uses a 10*10 array of IR LEDs. Or better yet, a TV-B-gone-clone IR LED cube. It could be done.

[Aaron1088]

Hi is there a way to strip-board this because I don't like how fragile and ugly dead bug circuits are.

[dark sponge]

Personally, I think dead bug circuits are a beautiful form of art when done correctly. But if you insist, just look at the schematic I posted and you should be able to figure out a decent board layout. If you have any questions about specifics, feel free to ask.

[hullr]

Was wondering if I could buy a working one from someone, I don't have the hands to make this anymore.

[jinzo533525]

I was wondering the same thing too :/

[jinzo533525]

Is there any way I could buy a pre-made one of this DIY TV-B-Gone SHP, I'm really keen on this but I can't get my hands on a programmer so I can't make one myself.
And how much would it cost to ship to New Zealand if possible?

[earthtown]

I do not promote smoking cigarettes...however, this is my inconspicuous (on the cheap) enclosure for my SHP clone. I used a snap action momentary switch, replaced the visual LED with an old cell phone vibrating motor. I haven't field tested it yet but I turned off my living room TV from about 35 feet away WITHOUT direct line of sight. I was pretty impressed. Big thanks to DARK SPONGE for the instructable, very easy to follow, well written and great pictures...not to mention the eagle files!

[dark sponge]

Dang, that looks pretty awesome. The limit switch blends perfectly and the vibrating motor was a brilliant idea. Do you use a transistor to power the motor or is it being driven directly from the microcontroller pin? I don't know how much current they draw my initial thought is it could cause the micro to reset or shut down if driven without a transistor. You're welcome, and thanks for the pics!

[earthtown]

I connected the motor directly to physical 7, doesn't seem to be an issue...yet. I used it today to turn off every TV I could find on a college campus, one of which was being watched by the person I was talking to, we were the only people in the room and within 3 feet of each other...he was none the wiser, a bit confused/annoyed but had no idea I was turning off his TV.

[dark sponge]

Sounds like it works, then! I guess it's a very low current motor.

[printingfreak]

I just bought my arduino Uno Rev 3 and I have it connected to my computer. The blink test works. But I am having issues figuring out how to build the programing board. How do you know where to plug in the leads coming from the board onto the Arduino? I spent a good time searching and reading different forums and came up empty handed. Your assistance in any way possible would be greatly appreciated as I am a novice taking my first stab at micro-controllers. Thanks

[dark sponge]

Hmm... Is this what you are looking for?

Use Arduino as ISP: http://www.arduino.cc/playground/Code/MegaISP
Wiring diagram: http://arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/ArduinoISP

[electfire]

If I remember correctly Adafruit sells just the pre-programed chip if one doesn't have the means to program the chip or is too lazy to bother...

(Checks).... Yes I was correct, though it costs $5 USD, though there doesn't seem to be any shipping cost (just using their shipping calculator)...

I know one can use an Arduino in ISP mode, though I am note sure if it has the capabilities to change the ATtiny's "fuses" ... If it is possible I would love to see someone write the code for it... (I'm not quite proficient in coding to do it myself)

[dark sponge]

The preprogrammed chip sold by Adafruit has slightly different firmware that uses an PNP transistor so this circuit would not work. Because I'm using an obsolete version, I had to flash the code myself, but I posted a revised schematic in step 20 of my other instructable for using the new chip. I'm pretty sure that any ISP programmer (including Arduino) can do fuses though avrdude without modification, but don't take my word for it.

[TobaTobias]

How would I do this If Im using ArduinoasISP, Do I have to install anything else. I have avrdude, a got the code for arduino as isp.

[electfire]

Randofo posted good 'ible on how to use an Arduino to program an ATtiny in ISP mode.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Program-an-ATtiny-with-Arduino/

[dark sponge]

You should not have to install anything else. In AVRdude, use a command such as

avrdude -c avrisp -p insert_part_name -P insert_com_port -b 19200 -U flash:w:filename.hex

I just was browsing the Arduino forums, for more information try http://www.arduino.cc/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1277933355

[Malthe]

Does it work in EU, and would you post a link to the codes.

[ShadowAssassin17]

Anybody in australia, How well should this work? Thanks :) (I want to attach this to my sonic screwdriver :D)
~Shadow

[yoyology]

I always love looking at these "dead bug" style electronics projects. Great instructable with lots of detailed photos. Thank you!

I keep thinking of making a TVBGone ballcap, with the LEDs in the brim and a switch on the back. Would there need to be any modifications made if the LEDs were at a distance from the rest of the circuit, say 12" of wire or so?

[dark sponge]

Thanks a lot! If the LEDs were at any reasonable distance from the circuit, it should not make any difference at all. At larger (tens of feet or more) distances you might notice some brightness decreases, but that's not much to worry about. Good luck!

[Bigfoot #14]

Question: how hard would it be to do this with a PIC16f628a or PIC18f4550 instead of an ATtiny.

[dark sponge]

It is possible, but you would have to change the coding language and recompile, as well as have a PIC programmer on hand. They have different architectures even though they are used for basically the same thing. If you have experience writing code for and programming PICs, go ahead and open the source files, it shouldn't be a huge shift. If not, I would not recommend trying to learn it just for this. Sorry for the late reply, and good luck!

[rafhit]

hello!
im from Portugal and i bought the tv-bgone chip from adafruit
i mounted the circuit like this one and i see that it lights up the led and with a camera i can see the IR light up too...what im thinking is that they sold me a version that work only in america...could you tell me where you from?
is there anyway to bypass this? i dont have a programmer for reporgram the chip
thank you

[dark sponge]

Hi! I found a forum topic discussing how to change it between US and European codes by adding a switch, which should be easy enough to do.

http://forums.adafruit.com/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=24377

Sorry for the extremely late reply. Good luck, have fun, and update me on if it works or not if you have time!

[moonpelt]

is it possible to use the adafriut micro controller found here http://www.adafruit.com/products/75

[dark sponge]

Yes, if you follow the instructions in step 20 of my other Instructable:

http://www.instructables.com/id/350-DIY-TV-B-Gone-Mico/step20/Update-Using-a-v12-Preprogrammed-Chip/

[curious youth]

hey hey if you want to increase the range further you should put this in a case with some aliminum foil behind the LED's its bounces the signal out to the front. hence increasing the range.
ive learnt that from http://www.instructables.com/member/Kipkay/

[dark sponge]

In this case I don't think it would increase the range very much because of the viewing angle of the LEDs. They already output almost all of their light directly to the front. Also, if it is directly behind the array it would be likely to short the connections.

[Drakz]

Hey darksponge,

I've recently gotten back into electronics and decided to give your instructable a go, and here's the result!

I decided to breadboard it out first, and it works great. I had a glee-filled half hour screwing with my girlfriend's chick flick from down the hallway. I'll be moving it to a more permanent enclosure and taking it to walmart or similar in the next week.

Thanks for a great instructable!

-D

[Drakz]

(removed by author or community request)

[Drakz]

Update =p

Found a nice inconspicuous enclosure in an old cell phone. I gutted the thing and slapped the components on a pcb. Only real issue is the thickness of the 9v battery. I managed to retain the case's functionality, at least. So it still flips up and has enough springiness to stay closed -- the back battery door is taped on, though, because of the extra 1cm that the battery sticks out. The electrical tape blends in well, though, and you can't really tell. 

The button is superglued to one of the plastic exteriors of one of the pre-existing buttons on the side of the phone, which means I'm not pushing some awkward mini button with my finger. Instead, I can hold this phone loosely at my side, which looks completely natural, and press/hold the button with my thumb that is resting on the side of the case. Totally unseen unless someone notices the 12 LEDs behind the exterior LCD window (the lcd being ripped out).

Pictures!

[dark sponge]

I love the cell phone case idea, it looks nearly seamless! For the fuses I used a website (http://www.engbedded.com/fusecalc) where I defined a few parameters (such as whether to use the external oscillator or not) and it generated the fuse codes for me. Some of the choices include number of start-up clock cycles (to allow the oscillator to stabilize), brown-out detection (shuts down the microcontroller if the voltage drops to low), and some other settings I don't worry about. In this case I just chose a high start-up value simply because the extra milliseconds didn't really matter in this application.

[lookwhatjoeysmaking]

can you write the code fore arduino pleeessssss ive ben  loking all over for weeks  now and i cant find it

[mischka]

Very nice pictures, and I like those boardless circuits. Well done instructable!

[dark sponge]

Thanks! Most pictures are taken with an old digital camera (when I first made it), others with a video camera in still mode (after it was completed), and the extreme close-ups were with an EVO and a cheap magnetic macro lens.

[Kaptain Kool]

Very interesting and well done!

[mrmath]

Nothing about the instructable, but I hate tv-b-gones. If you're in a public place that has TVs for customer enjoyment, what gives any one person to turn off all the TVs? It's arrogant to think that your need for silence in a public place is more important than anyone else's rights.