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Step 2Wiring
now that you've got all the parts we start attaching 6 inch lead wires to all used the leads on the relay this will make your life simpler. connect all the wires as shown in the diagram when you finish connecting everything flip the switch to on and touch the line out and negative line out wire. if you did it right you should be very awake(AKA shocked).
UPDATE:3/11/08
right so i was going through and looking at this and i though I'd add a small section on whats happening here with the wiring just to clear things up.
1)The switch is flipped completing the circuit.
2)The the relay is closed and the 1 u farad capacitor and coil begin to charge while the 1000 u farad capacitor simultaneously charges
3)when the 1000 u farad capacitor becomes charged the relay breaks the connection and the coil and 1 u capacitor discharge shocking what ever may be touching the coils line out and the negative line out
4)the 1000 u capacitor discharges and the cycle repeats at step 2 through 4 until the switch is flipped
UPDATE:6/6/08
ok so imagine this is your panel on the back of the relay
- 1 - 2
- 3 - 4
- 5 - 6
| 7 | 8
these numbers should be printed on the relay however may be missing
when positive and negative are connected to 7 and 8 the relay should trip
when no current is running through 8 and 7 relay allows electric flow from {1 to 5} and {2 to 6}
when current is flowing through 7 and 8 the relay triggers switching the connection from {1 to 5} to {3 to 5} and {2 to 6} to {4 to 6}
if all this is true with your relay you have the same type of relay other wise you may need to rewire stuff
next 8 and 4 connect to the large capacitor on the negative side (side with NO indentation running around the rim.) 5 and 7 connect to the other side of the large capacitor.
1 connects to the positive side of the small capacitor and 6 connects to the negative side.
2 and 3 connect to nothing
other things to check look for shorts around the relay theres a lot of wires really close together
Notes
the different colors of the wires is simply to make it easer to differentiate the wires from one another
you might consider using a larger capacitor in place of the 1000 u farad capacitor since i noticed the coil isn't fully charged when it discharged so the resulting shock is like rubbing your socks on the carpet and touching something metal as opposed to sticking your finger in a wall socket.
UPDATE:3/11/08
right so i was going through and looking at this and i though I'd add a small section on whats happening here with the wiring just to clear things up.
1)The switch is flipped completing the circuit.
2)The the relay is closed and the 1 u farad capacitor and coil begin to charge while the 1000 u farad capacitor simultaneously charges
3)when the 1000 u farad capacitor becomes charged the relay breaks the connection and the coil and 1 u capacitor discharge shocking what ever may be touching the coils line out and the negative line out
4)the 1000 u capacitor discharges and the cycle repeats at step 2 through 4 until the switch is flipped
UPDATE:6/6/08
ok so imagine this is your panel on the back of the relay
- 1 - 2
- 3 - 4
- 5 - 6
| 7 | 8
these numbers should be printed on the relay however may be missing
when positive and negative are connected to 7 and 8 the relay should trip
when no current is running through 8 and 7 relay allows electric flow from {1 to 5} and {2 to 6}
when current is flowing through 7 and 8 the relay triggers switching the connection from {1 to 5} to {3 to 5} and {2 to 6} to {4 to 6}
if all this is true with your relay you have the same type of relay other wise you may need to rewire stuff
next 8 and 4 connect to the large capacitor on the negative side (side with NO indentation running around the rim.) 5 and 7 connect to the other side of the large capacitor.
1 connects to the positive side of the small capacitor and 6 connects to the negative side.
2 and 3 connect to nothing
other things to check look for shorts around the relay theres a lot of wires really close together
Notes
the different colors of the wires is simply to make it easer to differentiate the wires from one another
you might consider using a larger capacitor in place of the 1000 u farad capacitor since i noticed the coil isn't fully charged when it discharged so the resulting shock is like rubbing your socks on the carpet and touching something metal as opposed to sticking your finger in a wall socket.
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just wanted to know what would be the resulting effect of this taser shock? i mean, how bad will it hurt?
could i have a proper breakdown of the items needed to create this tazer please.. i.e.
what sort of coils is needed? (will a car one do?)
also can a car relay be used. etc etc..
thanks....