First, let me thank you for looking at this DIY. This is my first Instructable so please be honest with your replies and comments. Also, I realize that most of my images will be blurry. I took most of the pictures with my camera phone to send to my friend who encouraged me to do this project and thus felt I should update him with the status of the project. Because I don't have as many detailed pictures as I'd like for a DIY, I'll try to be as in depth with my instructions as possible. I do have a camera so please minimize the "buy a better camera" comments. I started this project in the beginning of September and finished, after much learning and scraping and starting over, on Halloween.
I go the idea to do this mask because A) I'm a huge Terminator fan and B) I was shown Dark Power's DIY and thought I could do that. For my first latex mask, I think I did pretty good.
I had no intention to post a DIY at the start nor at the end of this project but my wife has persuaded me to do so and thus, here we go!
First, a lengthy list of materials:
-Plaster of Paris - Can be obtained from Walmart in the craft section, Home Depot, Lowes, Michael's, or most any craft and/or home improvement shop. I got the 8lb box so that when I made mistakes (which we all do) I'd have some extra and I'd have extra for other projects. You can also use alginate but its harder to come by (but typically dries a lot faster and is made from alternative materials.
-Plaster Strips - These can also be found at Michael's or at Walmart. An alternative to these are strips of burlap. Either way, when used properly, they add stability to the plaster.
-Petroleum Jelly - Found in baby sections or lotion sections of most retailers
-Mask Latex (Also called Slush Latex or Liquid Latex) - I purchased mine from an online retailer Monster Makers. I got the big bucket (with intentions of making numerous masks (Future DIYs with better pics)) but the small one will work fine. You can also find the latex at the seasonal Halloween stores around Halloween time or most costume stores also sell it locally.
-Make-Up - I purchased two makeup kits from a Halloween store; one was a skin tone kit (which I ended up not using for this project) and a multicolor kit for bruises and cuts. It has yellow, red, green, brown, and purple and came with a really fine sponge. Additionally, I went back to Walmart and purchased a cheap bottle of liquid foundation that matched my skin tone so that I could blend my skin tone with the fake skin I was making (more on the fake skin a little later on).
-Tube of Fake Blood - I got this at a Halloween store also. Worked pretty good and doesn't really go bad so I can use it later on for other great things.
-Stage Putty - This stuff can be used for making great looking fake scars and wounds. It can also be found in Halloween stores and some costume stores
-Metallic Spray paint - For the metal looking section of the mask I used Rustoleum's brand spray paint since it bonds with a lot of materials and applies a nice thick layer. I'll explain why spray paint for the metal part of the mask later as well.
-Clear Coat - I actually found a type of spray lacquer which was designed for pottery but clear coat spray paint will work just as well
-Glossy Accents - This stuff is made for scrap booking and what it does is give a "clear, dimensional embellishment" (whatever that means). Basically, you put it on a surface, it dries clear and is elevated about an 1/8". I used this to add some dimension to the eye and to diffuse the light from the LED. Found it at Michael's but likely could be found at most scrap booking stores.
-Ping Pong Balls - For the eye piece
-Single Lego Wheel piece - Steal this from your kids, friends, your collection. This will become the eye piece
-Scissors - Sharp and pointy
-Flat Black and Tan Acrylic Paint - Again, Walmart or any craft/home improvement retailer. Black paint and Tan paint, Not A Black and Tan drink (though it is a good way to end any good DIY). When selecting your Tan paint, try and find a paint that is as close to your skin tone as possible.
-Paint brushes - Specifically, a nice thin brush and something with some size behind it, maybe about 1/4" across
-Red LEDs - This was a bit tricky since I had little experience with LEDs, wiring, brightness levels, etc so I basically went to Radio Shack (I know I could have gotten them cheaper online but I'm impatient) and picked up a bunch of random Red LEDs.
-Thin Wire - This can be salvaged from most electronics. I used wire from an old computer keyboard cord (Save the keyboard as you can do other cool DIYs with it like a Wallet)
-Battery - I also picked up a few different button cells from Radio Shack to power the LEDs
-Electric Tape - If you don't already have some, why are you reading this DIY?
-PAM or other non-stick spray - PAM is amazing and smells like garlic (if you get the right one)
-Soldering Iron - Must have for any DIY project
-Solder - See previous tool
-Sculpey - I personally used Super Sculpy. I like it better but there are other cheaper (and better) options. Again, craft stores like Michael's. I'd recommend some type of bake-to-dry clay rather than air drying since it'll give you plenty of time to work and sculpt your masks.
-Sculpting Tools - Craft stores, hardware stores, your junk drawer. You can pretty much use anything. I used some clay sculpting tools I had laying around from an art class.
-An oven - You stick your pizza in these to cook them. Also handy for heating and setting the Sculpy or any bake drying clay. If you use air drying clay, no oven needed. Unless you're hungry and then you may want to cook some pizza while working.
-Spirit Gum - or other latex prosthetic adhesive. Available from Halloween stores
-Mixing Bucket and tools - After hitting Walmart (again) for supplies, I got a painter's bucket and a cool mixer that attaches to my wireless drill to mix paint (though we'll be using it to mix plaster)
-Super Glue - Walmart, Walgreens, Ralphs, pretty much anywhere sells this stuff
-Rags - To clean up the messes and blood and such
-Pie Tin - Not for pies but for molding. Can be bought at most grocery stores
-Ball Point Pen - One that writes on skin
-Q-tips - Not just for cleaning ears!
-An amazing wife - She'll let you take over the dining room table for months to build your crazy DIY projects
-Time - Young people have more than enough of it. Steal some of their's.
I'll try and separate this into the following basic sections: Molding the face, Sculpting the "Metal Area", Making the Latex mask, Construction of the Eye, Painting the latex mask, Making the Eye Glow, Fake skin, and Final. When making my mask I did it a little out of order with the Eye and the Painting but the order in which I wrote it here is the order I'd do it now if and when I do it again.
As the Doctor says, "Allons-y!"
I go the idea to do this mask because A) I'm a huge Terminator fan and B) I was shown Dark Power's DIY and thought I could do that. For my first latex mask, I think I did pretty good.
I had no intention to post a DIY at the start nor at the end of this project but my wife has persuaded me to do so and thus, here we go!
First, a lengthy list of materials:
-Plaster of Paris - Can be obtained from Walmart in the craft section, Home Depot, Lowes, Michael's, or most any craft and/or home improvement shop. I got the 8lb box so that when I made mistakes (which we all do) I'd have some extra and I'd have extra for other projects. You can also use alginate but its harder to come by (but typically dries a lot faster and is made from alternative materials.
-Plaster Strips - These can also be found at Michael's or at Walmart. An alternative to these are strips of burlap. Either way, when used properly, they add stability to the plaster.
-Petroleum Jelly - Found in baby sections or lotion sections of most retailers
-Mask Latex (Also called Slush Latex or Liquid Latex) - I purchased mine from an online retailer Monster Makers. I got the big bucket (with intentions of making numerous masks (Future DIYs with better pics)) but the small one will work fine. You can also find the latex at the seasonal Halloween stores around Halloween time or most costume stores also sell it locally.
-Make-Up - I purchased two makeup kits from a Halloween store; one was a skin tone kit (which I ended up not using for this project) and a multicolor kit for bruises and cuts. It has yellow, red, green, brown, and purple and came with a really fine sponge. Additionally, I went back to Walmart and purchased a cheap bottle of liquid foundation that matched my skin tone so that I could blend my skin tone with the fake skin I was making (more on the fake skin a little later on).
-Tube of Fake Blood - I got this at a Halloween store also. Worked pretty good and doesn't really go bad so I can use it later on for other great things.
-Stage Putty - This stuff can be used for making great looking fake scars and wounds. It can also be found in Halloween stores and some costume stores
-Metallic Spray paint - For the metal looking section of the mask I used Rustoleum's brand spray paint since it bonds with a lot of materials and applies a nice thick layer. I'll explain why spray paint for the metal part of the mask later as well.
-Clear Coat - I actually found a type of spray lacquer which was designed for pottery but clear coat spray paint will work just as well
-Glossy Accents - This stuff is made for scrap booking and what it does is give a "clear, dimensional embellishment" (whatever that means). Basically, you put it on a surface, it dries clear and is elevated about an 1/8". I used this to add some dimension to the eye and to diffuse the light from the LED. Found it at Michael's but likely could be found at most scrap booking stores.
-Ping Pong Balls - For the eye piece
-Single Lego Wheel piece - Steal this from your kids, friends, your collection. This will become the eye piece
-Scissors - Sharp and pointy
-Flat Black and Tan Acrylic Paint - Again, Walmart or any craft/home improvement retailer. Black paint and Tan paint, Not A Black and Tan drink (though it is a good way to end any good DIY). When selecting your Tan paint, try and find a paint that is as close to your skin tone as possible.
-Paint brushes - Specifically, a nice thin brush and something with some size behind it, maybe about 1/4" across
-Red LEDs - This was a bit tricky since I had little experience with LEDs, wiring, brightness levels, etc so I basically went to Radio Shack (I know I could have gotten them cheaper online but I'm impatient) and picked up a bunch of random Red LEDs.
-Thin Wire - This can be salvaged from most electronics. I used wire from an old computer keyboard cord (Save the keyboard as you can do other cool DIYs with it like a Wallet)
-Battery - I also picked up a few different button cells from Radio Shack to power the LEDs
-Electric Tape - If you don't already have some, why are you reading this DIY?
-PAM or other non-stick spray - PAM is amazing and smells like garlic (if you get the right one)
-Soldering Iron - Must have for any DIY project
-Solder - See previous tool
-Sculpey - I personally used Super Sculpy. I like it better but there are other cheaper (and better) options. Again, craft stores like Michael's. I'd recommend some type of bake-to-dry clay rather than air drying since it'll give you plenty of time to work and sculpt your masks.
-Sculpting Tools - Craft stores, hardware stores, your junk drawer. You can pretty much use anything. I used some clay sculpting tools I had laying around from an art class.
-An oven - You stick your pizza in these to cook them. Also handy for heating and setting the Sculpy or any bake drying clay. If you use air drying clay, no oven needed. Unless you're hungry and then you may want to cook some pizza while working.
-Spirit Gum - or other latex prosthetic adhesive. Available from Halloween stores
-Mixing Bucket and tools - After hitting Walmart (again) for supplies, I got a painter's bucket and a cool mixer that attaches to my wireless drill to mix paint (though we'll be using it to mix plaster)
-Super Glue - Walmart, Walgreens, Ralphs, pretty much anywhere sells this stuff
-Rags - To clean up the messes and blood and such
-Pie Tin - Not for pies but for molding. Can be bought at most grocery stores
-Ball Point Pen - One that writes on skin
-Q-tips - Not just for cleaning ears!
-An amazing wife - She'll let you take over the dining room table for months to build your crazy DIY projects
-Time - Young people have more than enough of it. Steal some of their's.
I'll try and separate this into the following basic sections: Molding the face, Sculpting the "Metal Area", Making the Latex mask, Construction of the Eye, Painting the latex mask, Making the Eye Glow, Fake skin, and Final. When making my mask I did it a little out of order with the Eye and the Painting but the order in which I wrote it here is the order I'd do it now if and when I do it again.
As the Doctor says, "Allons-y!"
Remove these ads by
Signing UpStep 1: Molding Your Face
Molding Your Face
Tools needed (This list is based on what I used. You may substitute anything you'd like but I hold no responsibility if your face turns green):
Plaster of Paris
Plaster Strips
Petroleum Jelly
Mixing bucket
Rags
First off, you need to get a positive of your face. To do this we'll first make a negative of your face. This can be done a few different ways but I find the easiest way is to bribe someone (your spouse or someone you trust) to help you. Get a nice clear area, preferably tile or outside. I used my bathroom floor. I'd also use the bathroom before this starts as you will be pretty much busy for the next hour or so. Additionally, a method of communication with your assistant may be useful. Sign language is helpful or so is a dry erase marker and white board. Either way helps the pass the time when you're laying still for the next 45ish mins. Measure out the plaster and water according to the directions but DO NOT MIX them yet. Once you have everything measured out, take the petroleum jelly and apply to face. You really want to apply this mainly to your hairy areas of your face like your eyes, eye brows, about 2-3 inches into your hairline (unless you have a bald cap or swim cap), beard and any other facial hair you may have. The jelly helps to keep the plaster from sticking and tearing off half your face. Next, lie on your back and support the head and neck either with some rags or and old pillow since you'll be there for the next 45ish mins. Have your lovely assistant help you pour the plaster on your face and MAKE SURE you either stick your fingers in your nostrils when putting the plaster over your nose or stick straws in your nose so you can breath. Once you have plaster all over your face, have your assistant place either the strips of plaster or the burlap on your face and, if using burlap, apply a little more plaster to the burlap. The plaster strips have plaster in them already and thus, don't need another layer of plaster. Once all the plaster is on, make sure to give it plenty of time to dry. It took something like 30 mins to dry in my case. NOTE: the plaster is going through a chemical change and will get warm and in some cases, slightly hot. I was not uncomfortably hot but it was pretty warm and it was heavy. After the plaster is dry, slowly peel it off your face trying to leave as much hair on your face as possible. I forgot to liberally douse my beard and it was severely thinned via the removal process. Rinse off your face with soap and water so you can see and proceed.
Now that you have a negative of your face, we're gonna make the positive. Take your negative and apply a couple plaster strips to the outside of your negative where the nose is to fill in the nostrils. Next, support the sides and edges with the rags you were using to support your head and neck (you were supporting them weren't you?) and take the PAM spray and apply a liberal coating within the negative making sure to cover all the holes and cracks. The PAM spray will act as a releasing agent between the two plaster sets; otherwise the plaster will likely stick to itself and you'll spend another 45mins laying on the floor cursing the gods of claustrophobia while being stuck in plaster face mold. Mix another batch of plaster and pour that into your negative. Eat some pizza while it sets up and when its done, remove the negative from the newly made positive and you now should have an exact copy of your face.
Tools needed (This list is based on what I used. You may substitute anything you'd like but I hold no responsibility if your face turns green):
Plaster of Paris
Plaster Strips
Petroleum Jelly
Mixing bucket
Rags
First off, you need to get a positive of your face. To do this we'll first make a negative of your face. This can be done a few different ways but I find the easiest way is to bribe someone (your spouse or someone you trust) to help you. Get a nice clear area, preferably tile or outside. I used my bathroom floor. I'd also use the bathroom before this starts as you will be pretty much busy for the next hour or so. Additionally, a method of communication with your assistant may be useful. Sign language is helpful or so is a dry erase marker and white board. Either way helps the pass the time when you're laying still for the next 45ish mins. Measure out the plaster and water according to the directions but DO NOT MIX them yet. Once you have everything measured out, take the petroleum jelly and apply to face. You really want to apply this mainly to your hairy areas of your face like your eyes, eye brows, about 2-3 inches into your hairline (unless you have a bald cap or swim cap), beard and any other facial hair you may have. The jelly helps to keep the plaster from sticking and tearing off half your face. Next, lie on your back and support the head and neck either with some rags or and old pillow since you'll be there for the next 45ish mins. Have your lovely assistant help you pour the plaster on your face and MAKE SURE you either stick your fingers in your nostrils when putting the plaster over your nose or stick straws in your nose so you can breath. Once you have plaster all over your face, have your assistant place either the strips of plaster or the burlap on your face and, if using burlap, apply a little more plaster to the burlap. The plaster strips have plaster in them already and thus, don't need another layer of plaster. Once all the plaster is on, make sure to give it plenty of time to dry. It took something like 30 mins to dry in my case. NOTE: the plaster is going through a chemical change and will get warm and in some cases, slightly hot. I was not uncomfortably hot but it was pretty warm and it was heavy. After the plaster is dry, slowly peel it off your face trying to leave as much hair on your face as possible. I forgot to liberally douse my beard and it was severely thinned via the removal process. Rinse off your face with soap and water so you can see and proceed.
Now that you have a negative of your face, we're gonna make the positive. Take your negative and apply a couple plaster strips to the outside of your negative where the nose is to fill in the nostrils. Next, support the sides and edges with the rags you were using to support your head and neck (you were supporting them weren't you?) and take the PAM spray and apply a liberal coating within the negative making sure to cover all the holes and cracks. The PAM spray will act as a releasing agent between the two plaster sets; otherwise the plaster will likely stick to itself and you'll spend another 45mins laying on the floor cursing the gods of claustrophobia while being stuck in plaster face mold. Mix another batch of plaster and pour that into your negative. Eat some pizza while it sets up and when its done, remove the negative from the newly made positive and you now should have an exact copy of your face.
Flag this comment as:
Not NiceInappropriateSpam
AmyHn says:
Aug 24, 2011. 10:50 PMReply
Hi. Love that second pic of you guys.
AmyHn says:
Aug 24, 2011. 11:06 PMReply
I meant the last one. :P
Visit Our Store »
Go Pro Today »
