Step 1: Materials You'll Need
1 board of MDF - 11/16"x 5.5"x 8'
1 piece of scrap 1/4" thick you can make a 3.5" circle cut out of (I had some oak ply scrap)
1 dowel rod - 1 1/8"x15"
2 pvc end caps - 1"
2 strips of leather - 1" wide 55" long and 3/4" wide 12"-14" long
(this I bought from my local "major chain" hobby store. They sell bags of leather remnants for $5-$10)
3 screws - 2 tiny 3/8" Phillips head to hold the leather, you don't need them if you would rather glue the leather with some epoxy. One 2" phillips to attach the loop on the handle.
Sandable wood filler
Spray primer - I used rust oleum auto primer (gray)
Spray paint - I used rustoleum "forged hammer":)
Step 2: Tools You'll Need
-Scroll or band saw (or jig saw or coping saw, something you can cut a circle with)
-Table saw (I can't think of a substitute I could use for this tool on this build to make the angled cuts on the hammer)
-Drill or drill press
-Rotory tool (or you can omit the markings on the hammer, or use paint)
-1 1/4" forstner bit (if you have hole saw bits, you can work with that too with an extra step I'll outline in the build step)
-Clamps, I like to use ratchet clamps but you can use whatever you might have to get by with clamping something 9"x6".
Step 3: Building the Hammer Head
Cut 9 pieces of MDF 9" long. I made a little "stop block" set up on my miter saw to not only make this faster (no measuring between each cut), but to also ensure each cut is exactly the same. It won't hurt anything to be a little longer than planned on the entire hammer head, but its a total bummer if each cut is off here and there because of variations that can happen when you are making a bunch of successive cuts. If that happens, then you'll just have to sand a lot more later to even out the end surfaces.
Now you have a stack of 9" cuts that should come to the 5.5" x 6.5"x9" that make up a ( if ye be worthy) block of Asgaurdian goodness that needs to be glued together. If you do not have forstner bits for your drill or drill press, you can use hole saw bits, but you'll need to make the holes in the first few layers(starting from the handle side) before you glue this up in each layer one at a time. If you do have Forster bits, you can move forward with the glue up.
Spread glue evenly on each layer and clamp together keeping all sides even. After fully clamped, wipe off excess "glue squeeze" with a light-moderately moist towel and let dry overnight.
Step 4: Build/Shaping the Hammer Head
I used a similar process for the "face" cuts of the hammer. You will have to re-adjust the fence for the face cuts.
Now it is time to apply the wood filler to the sides of the hammer to fill in the grooves from where the layers meet. This will give the hammer a more solid, clean look prior to the paint application. I used a fairly generous amount of the wood filler as it sands down pretty easily. Let dry as recommended.
Step 5: Making the Top Cap
I chose to angle off the edge of the cap at roughly 45 degrees with a disk sander.
Then attach the cap with wood glue and allow to dry.
Step 6: Drilling the Hole
Step 7: Making the Handle
Dry fit the handle in to the head and check where your leather wrap will need to begin. To wrap the leather, I screwed a small 3/8" screw in to the leather and through the dowel. Since this part of the handle will be inside the hammer, the screw is not going to show. Continue to wrap the handle till you get to the end of the dowel and drive in the second 3/8" screw. Trim the excess leather so your wrap is flush with the bottom of the dowel. This side of the handle will be covered by the pvc end cap. Dry fit the handle to make sure the leather wrap is going to be tight enough. This step is important to do before you glue the handle to the head or the end cap to the handle.
Step 8: Making the End Cap and Collar for the Handle
To add a leather loop to the bottom of the handle I cut a slot on each side of the end cap the same size as the strip of leather I used. This part of the build also became difficult because I could not determine the best tool to use that would keep me from ruining the piece. I tried many things (oscillating tool, scroll saw, file), in the end I settled on the rotary tools cutting wheel. It was the most controlled manner I found to cut the slots, if I did not have a rotary tool, I would have settled on using a hack saw, box cutter and a file.
I found grinding the opening a little bigger made the fit over the leather wrapped handle easier to make and less destructive to the end cap (I broke my first end cap trying to "ease" it on with a rubber mallet.
Step 9: Prime
Step 10: Engraving
1. I like the cleaner look
2. I don't trust myself to try and engrave that much on the hammer as this is my first attempt at engraving. I suppose if you went for it and messed it up, you add wood filler, let dry, sand, reprime and try again.
I printed a stencil from the internet, cut it out, traced it on the hammer, filled in the gaps by hand . Now you have a pattern to engrave off of the hammer.