Rather than create an unneeded set of tables, I shot photos using one of each size table that I had already made.
Step 1: Tools & Materials
- Drill & drill bits
- sandpaper (optional)
- router & round-over bit
Materials list for tables:
(1) ¾” x 2’ x 4’ sheet of plywood
(4) ¾”#10 screws
(2)¾” x 10’ EMT conduit
(2)¾” EMT conduit clamps
(4)¾” end caps
(2)¼” x 2” bolts
(2)¼” locking nuts
(2)3/16 “ steel snowmobile pop rivets (¼ “ to 3/8 “ grip range)
(2ft) 2" webbing
(4) ¾” #10 screws
(2) ¾” x 10’ EMT conduit
(2) ¾” EMT conduit clamps
(4) ¾” end caps
(2) ¼” x 2” bolts
(2) ¼” locking nuts
(2) 3/16 “ steel snowmobile pop rivets (¼ “ to 3/8 “ grip range)
(20in) 2" webbing
Step 2: Saw the Table Tops
Step 3: Cut the Conduit & Weld Sections
Larger table. The legs of the outside section should be 36”. Cut the outside top conduit to 24”. The legs of the inside section should be 34”. Cut the inside top conduit to 22”. The distance between the outside legs needs to be 22 1/8”.
Smaller table. The legs of the outside section should be 33”. Cut the outside top conduit to 15”. The legs of the inside section should be 31”. Cut the inside top conduit to 13”. The distance between the outside legs needs to be 13 1/8”.
Note: If you plan on making more than one set of table legs for each size, I’d recommend that you create a jig for welding. I’m including a couple of photos of the jig I made for this purpose. The jig is two sided and has two parts on each side. Each side has 'jigs' for the outside legs for both size tables and the opposite side has 'jigs' for the inside legs for both size tables – see photos. The red areas indicate where the conduit should be placed and clamped for welding (clamps have been removed in the photo with the conduit). I have made tables over several years and all are uniform.
In order to create the strongest weld joints, the ends should be shaped to the fit the curvature of the top conduit. Weld the corners of outside and inside leg sections. Attach end caps to the leg ends to provide protection for floors.
Step 4: Drill and Assemble the Leg Sections
Insert a bolt and secure with a lock nut. Note: ¼“ washers could be used between the legs, however I’ve found they really aren’t necessary.
Step 5: Drill & Attach the Webbing
The strap is positioned on the bottom side of the table legs and is secured with pop rivets. An easy way to attach the webbing is to turn the table legs upside down. Drill a hole centered in both sections for a pop rivet (see photo for position). Next spread the leg sections apart until the distance from the leg bottoms to the ground measures 30”. Measure the distance from each hole you just drilled and add 1 ½“ to the measurement (approximately 24" for the larger table and 19" for the smaller table). Cut a length of webbing to that length and fold over each end ¾” and attach with a pop rivet. It should look something like the photo.
To use the assembled table legs, always keep the webbing on the bottom of both sections (see photos). The table leg assembly is designed to fold up into itself.
Step 6: Attach the Leg Assemblies to the Table Tops
The last photo shows how compact the tables are; there are eight tables shown with each only 1 ½“ high.