The Idea was to find a low-mileage large van and make it into a standing-height, high-ceiling a work vehicle. I couldn't see parting with 40-50K for a sprinter van, or similar. This could also work for a camper.

The van top that the local company sells is either too high or too low, and relatively heavy and $2500+. Combine that with it's 60 miles away, so I decided to make my own.

The idea was to make a frame, cover it with .22 plywood, anchor it the van with screws, fill the voids (rear corners) with spray foam, (red cans that cost about $3 at a hardware or building supply store,) coat this with laminating resin, fiberglass over the corners and edges of this structure first with 1-1/2oz fiberglass mat, then over the entire structure with 10 oz. fiberglass cloth. Once fiberglassed, a filler was made with laminating resin, mixed with a thickening powder, called Q-Cell, to make a filler and a surfacing agent, to allow it to sand easier. The top was then insulated with 1-1/2 foam sheets, which is sold at building supply stores in 4x8 sheets, then paneled on the inside.

Step 1: Step 1 Cut the Top - Start the Frame - Panel

The video shows the cutout and frame from the inside. It's worth a look.

The top is cut behind the 1st brace and about 4" above the gutter, per instructions received from the van top vendor. The seats are in front of the first brace, so you can't really stand up there anyway. This gives support and protection to the driver and passenger. I cut it using a combination of electric sheet metal shears and a cut-off wheel. (HF 68199 and 68523)

The metal removed from the top weighed a bunch! Probably around 100 lbs.

After looking around my garage and knowing what I could do, I decided to either make a frame out of 1/4-1/8" plywood strips 1-1/2" wide glued together so I could make bends, or use some 1'1/2" .06 wall 6061-T6 aluminum tubing. The tubing was used. Bent with a tubing bender and 1-1/2" dies (JMR Sportsman or JD Squared model JD 3)

Wherever the tubing was bent, it was annealed with a propane torch, to burn off the heat treating markings and slowly bent in a hydraulic tubing bender with 1-1/2" dies. Plywood bent and glued would work just as well, as also would wooden (clear (without knots) is best) 2x2's with plywood gussets for the corners.

It just so happens that closet pole, 1-3/ 8 fits nicely inside the 1-1/2 .06 wall tubing Anywhere a piece need help (short or boo boo), I used the pole to help. An 1-1/2" hole saw, in a drill press allowed cutting the tubing to fit each other. Where the tubing met the body, the closet pole was fit to the body, then inserted into the tubing, and a sheet metal screw or two were used to lock it in.

I made the first side, then the second side, to match. I was a little off (1") and if you look close you can see it.

To hold the two sides, I made a 12" piece of panelling, cut to approx. what I wanted and screwed it in the rear, one side at a time, on this you could use a helper. After a couple of adjustments, the front and side panels were attached.

It's a good idea to step back and look at things every so often and fix weird stuff (sagging, crooked) before it gets harder to fix. Braces 2 feet on center give you good nailing spaced when you go to panel the inside.

For the roof, I bent braces to be more aerodynamic and to allow for a higher ceiling and put a place to install a roof vent or A/C.

The round corners posed an issue, but I either cut kerfs in the panelling or used spray foam to provide a rounded surface for finishing. (Fiberglass needs a 3/8 or greater radius or it bubbles.)

Step 2: Fiberglass and Insulation

Fiberglass provides strength and waterproofing. The laminating resin makes it so you don't have to sand between coats, if it doesn't set several days, and makes it waterproof. The 1-1/2oz matt and 10oz cloth give it strength. You can buy matt and cloth sewn together, which would have probably been a better choice. It's stronger and only slightly heavier. There is an internet vender that has darn good prices, the local vendor was a twice as much.

I coated the top with laminating resin to seal and to provide a good base for the matt and cloth.

After reinforcing the edges and joints, I sanded the rough spots and installed the cloth. (eye and lung protection)

Sand the rough edges and cover in sections maybe 2x4 feet with a filler made from q-cell and laminating resin with surfacing agent and sand before it gets super hard......15-45 minutes later......with 36 grit attached to a 12-16" x 2-1/2" sanding board. (HF 91773 air powered and/or 1727) so its flat or transitioning smoothly.

LOTS of sanding. If you put white pigment in the mix before adding the q-cell thickener, you may save a little on gelcoat. Any electrical (12v and/or 120v) should be installed before the insulation. Insulation can be installed when you get tired of sanding and the inside can be paneled.

Step 3: Gel Coat and Panel

If you use a low nap 6" roller, you can roll on the gelcoat and it worked out ok. This is way easier than spraying and the masking-off needed.

After rolling on the gel coat, let it set up (20-45 minutes) and roller over it with mold release. The mold release makes the gelcoat finish shinier and washes off....I left it on a few hours, as I was instructed. over night probably would have been fine.

I then paneled the inside with .22 paneling and built some benches and shelves.

The top weighs about what the top removed weighs. It has 8 sheets of .22 paneling, very light insulation, 4 or 5 20' sections of 1-1/2 .06 aluminum tubing, 5 -8' 2x2's and various fasteners. The weight of the fiberglass and resin could be 20 lbs....so with the interior is probably weights 120 lbs. The rest of the interior weighs more, maybe double.

The van gets 15 mpg + on the freeway, 12mpg around town....It's a 1996 Dodge Maxivan with a 5.2L engine.

This actually was a pleasant surprise.

It would be really excellent to make the doors taller too, but I want to use this more and work out any kinks.

This van is a 1996 Dodge Maxivan with 85,000 from the original owner and tons of maintenance paperwork, and it had a leaky, rusty roof. As a slightly wacko Idea, I would really like to make the top a removable boat, but that's another project, another day.

<p>It is good to upcycle something. I value your validated chance to do more with less. Excellent work.</p><p></p><p><a href="http://www.aamanandvan.co.uk/man-and-van-croydon" rel="nofollow">Man and Van Croydon</a></p><p></p>
<p>Thank you for the compliment. It's been a while, and I really like the outcome.</p><p>I built this to provide a space while constructing a home for our daughter's family.</p><p>Now that it's done, I think I'll make it a camper. The rear springs are a little tired, and the tires are passenger tires. There's plenty of room for solar panels on the top and sides, hmmm....look for results in June, '17....&quot;DIY High Top Van Camper&quot; Thank you for your interest. (unless my wife makes me sell it....she's always right...&quot;Yes dear&quot; 39 yrs and happy)</p>
<p>That looks excellent. I like how you kept the original driver end roof, it must add to the strength of it and makes storage. A door or grill over it would stop things falling on the drivers head.</p>
<p>I know it's hard to see, but the brace is behind the driver and passenger, there is also a bulkhead behind the driver that supports the bed and desk/workbench and protects the driver in a crash or panic stop. (I thought I replied earlier)</p>
So, what was the total cost?
<p>It's hard to say, time and money wise. Dollar wise it was cheaper than buying one. However, it took way more time than just installing one. I was happy with the result and the gas mileage...16 mpg at 65, plus it was much lighter than a purchased one.</p>
<p>I do have a concern about this, how safe is it? I mean, I don't know how a normal roof acts when you roll, but a roof that is hand-built like this, I imagine, would be less safe, and would have more debris flying or something. I am no expert on this stuff, so I an curious if there is some way to find out.</p>
Thank you for your comment. I can only guess that it is not as safe as the factory roof. The driver and passenger area, however has the original roof, which is cut behind the first brace and there is a bulkhead behind the driver, so I would imagine that the driver is probably safer, but the best way to solve this would be to contact a structural engineer. <br><br>As with any vehicle, If you maintain the vehicle and drive appropriately, the risk of rollover could certainly be diminished. <br><br>I would think that the built-in counters could lend more structural integrity in the even of a side collision, but I have no basis for any scientific conclusion.<br><br>As for flying debris, the driver bulkhead would diminish the likelihood of contact, however, properly securing items would also reduce the likelihood. Many purpose-built vehicles, work vehicles and RV's could be less structurally sound than production vehicles, but also less useful. Adding bulkheads could certainly increase roll-over collapse resistance. <br><br>Build a stronger one and post it!
<p>Thanks for being so informative and responsive to all who left comments seeking genuine answers; I am coming from a place of really determined to get this done and see this through. My Question is are the downloadable plans from this site a complete step by step guide for someone who has never even thought about attempting something like this? If so that is awesome , if not and if you found time to make it a step by step beginners it would be a best seller in my humble opinion. Thanks again.</p>
<p>DhrisD</p><p>Thank you for your comments. This is all I have to share.</p>
<p>how are you, Love the conversion honestly what you did has been a blessing; staring at this blank van with no idea how to raise it almost drove me mad. any way if its not too much of a hassle could you create a detailed list of all tools that where used to cut and create the top. Only thing i have is a drill/driver and pretty sure that wont cut it alone, no pun intended.</p>
Common tools would be hammer, power and hand screwdrivers, drill, drill bits, circular saw, table saw, electric and hand sheet metal shears, I used a tubing bender on the aluminum tubing, but a conduit bender should be adequate, or you could cut and laminate lumber, a long flat sander, or a straight 2&quot;x 24&quot; and glue sandpaper to it for flat sanding.<br>I probably missed a few tools. This is somewhat of a complex project, so I may have missed some tools. If you need an excuse, get more tools!
<p>How much did this end up costing you in the end?</p>
<p>I'd be interested in a price breakdown as well. </p>
Thank you for the comment. <br><br>The cost of the high top, without the interior was tubing, 4- 21' pieces 1-1/2&quot; aluminum $120, 6 sheets of 5mm paneling $70, closet pole, 2x2, 1x2, screws, spray foam, insulation, sandpaper, tape, sanding belts, paper $120, fiberglass, resin, gel coat, bondo, $500, beer, water, gatorade $100<br><br>The interior - 9 sheets of paneling $100, wire, electrical boxes and outlets, 2 sheets 1/2&quot; plywood, screws, 1x2, glue, more spray foam $200, more beer, water and gatorade $100<br><br>I had the tools.<br><br>So, there you go.
<p>Overall a very well made Hi-Roof conversion. You have almost made yourself a Gelati van or Mobile Coffee/food van conversion, but that would also require impervious surfaces.</p><p>On the idea of the roof becoming a boat, Mirror dingy's were made out of plywood with fibreglass joints and epoxy sealer.</p>
<p>Would you like an Ice cream sandwich, a drumstick or a Mocha Latte?</p>
Go the boat idea. it's done already as you have a hull fixed to the top of your van! big rubber seal and some cam locks!!
<p>Today, I just saw a mini van with a boat fiberglassed in....No lIe! The guy even kept</p><p>the rear block someone scabbed on to accommodate an outboard! Too cool, (sort of)! </p>
This is awesome! I'm impressed!
<p>Thank you, Josh. When I was a kid, I had a van conversions shop. Kept a lot of the tools, so just needed an excuse to use them. </p>
<p>It's great to up cycle something. I respect your demonstrated ability to do more with less. Very nice work.</p>
<p>Thank you for your kind words. My 85 yr old mom said &quot; Your are like your father in that you see treasure in trash. You are also like you father in that you have too much 'treasure.'&quot;</p>
<p>Finally, a van where I could have a decent amount of head room. If I ever buy another van, I am definitely going to do this.</p>

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