In this Instructable I will show you how to build your very own vintage style buffet table. I won't offer many measurements. I will leave that up to you to account for the size table you want.
Please make sure to vote for this piece in the Woodworking Challenge!!
You can skip to the last step where I have the video of this build if you would rather watch it.
Parts:
4" x 3/4" planks of ceder (the quantity will depend on the size table you want to build)
2' x 4' 3/4" plyboard for the top
4' x 8' sheet thin panel for shelf bottoms
4 drawer knobs
4 table legs
Tools:
Wood Glue
Nails
Wood Screws
Measuring Tape
Router Saw
Miter or Table Saw
4 - L Brackets
Hammer
Screw Driver
Stain
Paint
Brushes
Please make sure to vote for this piece in the Woodworking Challenge!!
You can skip to the last step where I have the video of this build if you would rather watch it.
Parts:
4" x 3/4" planks of ceder (the quantity will depend on the size table you want to build)
2' x 4' 3/4" plyboard for the top
4' x 8' sheet thin panel for shelf bottoms
4 drawer knobs
4 table legs
Tools:
Wood Glue
Nails
Wood Screws
Measuring Tape
Router Saw
Miter or Table Saw
4 - L Brackets
Hammer
Screw Driver
Stain
Paint
Brushes
Step 1: Measure and Cutting
Start by measuring and cutting the sides and the top. I purchased my table legs from a vintage hardware store and they were all uneven, so if this is the case for you make sure you even the legs before installing.
The sides will be 2 of the 4" x 3/4" board stacked on top of each other. I cut small strips out of wood to mount on the inside of the boards to secure them in place.
The top will overhang the sides by 1" so measure and cut this accordingly.
The sides will be 2 of the 4" x 3/4" board stacked on top of each other. I cut small strips out of wood to mount on the inside of the boards to secure them in place.
The top will overhang the sides by 1" so measure and cut this accordingly.
Step 2: Mount the Legs and the Top
Place the legs in the corners to verify the position. Once all the legs are in the correct position measure the distances for the back and the sides - this will be the lengths of the boards.
Use scrap pieces of wood and mount them to the legs on the inside corners, and then mount the side boards to these. This will connect the back and both sides to all 4 legs. Run a bead of glue along the top side of the legs and sides and attach the top using 4 angle brackets in each corner.
Use scrap pieces of wood and mount them to the legs on the inside corners, and then mount the side boards to these. This will connect the back and both sides to all 4 legs. Run a bead of glue along the top side of the legs and sides and attach the top using 4 angle brackets in each corner.
Step 3: Drawers
Cut strips out of the 3/4" for the front. When measuring leave equal distances between them to account for the drawers. Also mount support brackets for the drawers running front to back.
Now measure and cut the sides for the drawers and route grooves along the bottoms to mount the bottom panel. Then cut the bottom out of the paneling, take into account the larger size to fit into the grooves cut into the sides. Fasten the back and two sides together using wood glue and nails, slide in the bottom piece and the attach the front in the same manner.
Now measure and cut the sides for the drawers and route grooves along the bottoms to mount the bottom panel. Then cut the bottom out of the paneling, take into account the larger size to fit into the grooves cut into the sides. Fasten the back and two sides together using wood glue and nails, slide in the bottom piece and the attach the front in the same manner.
Step 4: Final Assembly
Slide the drawer boxes into each slot. Measure and cut the 3/4" board to create the face places. I allowed for a 3/4" overlap on all sides to keep the drawers from sliding all the way into the back, and also for more support for the knob pulls.
After everything is to the size that you need, route all the edges on the top and each drawer front. This is for aesthetics, so the shape is up to you.
Now mount the knobs by drilling holes through the front drawer plates and running the screws through the back into the knob.
After everything is to the size that you need, route all the edges on the top and each drawer front. This is for aesthetics, so the shape is up to you.
Now mount the knobs by drilling holes through the front drawer plates and running the screws through the back into the knob.
Step 5: Sanding and Staining
Sand the entire piece very thoroughly. Antique furniture will have worn rounded edges.
Apply several coats of the base stain of your choice. After that dries apply a thin coat of black paint. This will allow the table to have a more worn look when the top coat is sanded down.
When the black dries, lightly sand the entire piece to allow the stain to show through in some places.
Now apply a coat of your top paint. I am using eggshell white latex. Allow that to dry and now lightly sand the entire piece to allow the black to show through, and then sand the edges and places that would receive the most wear to achieve the used worn look.
Apply several coats of the base stain of your choice. After that dries apply a thin coat of black paint. This will allow the table to have a more worn look when the top coat is sanded down.
When the black dries, lightly sand the entire piece to allow the stain to show through in some places.
Now apply a coat of your top paint. I am using eggshell white latex. Allow that to dry and now lightly sand the entire piece to allow the black to show through, and then sand the edges and places that would receive the most wear to achieve the used worn look.
Step 6: Finish
Apply a couple coats of protective lacquer to protect the table. I used flat because I didn't want it looking shiny.
Place the piece in your favorite shot, place some items on it and around it and enjoy!
Thank you.
Video of the build:
Place the piece in your favorite shot, place some items on it and around it and enjoy!
Thank you.
Video of the build:
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