Step 6: Assembling the Wind-Powered Water Pump

To assemble the wind-powered water pump, I hammered a metal rod into the ground where I wanted the pump to stand. To this rod I braced the outer part of the pump mechanism using two screw clamps. Then I positioned the windmill part of the whole thing centered above the pump and high enough to allow the connecting arm to extend and contract without buckling. Lastly, I attached the connecting arm to the two ball bearings--one on the horizontal gear, the other on the pump piston.
The project is complete. It really is a thing of beauty...
<p>I don't know if someone pointed it out, but those &quot;gears&quot; are bicycle disk brakes. Great instructable!</p>
<p>How high that water is sent?</p>
Only a couple feet. This design needs improvement!
<p>I need to send the water 20 meters and 4 meters high.</p><p>If do I a greater good, you think you'll exodus?</p><p>Thanks for answer.</p>
<p>What is it with bicycle parts and the wind hmmm? (Ask the Wright Brothers haha)</p><p>Here's another bicycle shop in the Mojave Desert and a project they have going...</p><p>https://www.youtube.com/user/DezsoM1</p>
Hi, Martha, I did a bit of work over the holidays about low tech water pumping for pallet gardens, so it is really simple now. As long as your wind pump can produce 2 psi, (or drive air bubbles 14 inches deep in water, you can pump water with air. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLIOiXbq960 is the very simplest way but you might need the &quot;t-joint&quot; method because wind power is variable.
out of curiosity, wouldn't a simple mechanical Archimedes screw do the trick? If the romans could build one, I'm sure it would be a viable diy build in the third world. I mean they have been the traditional windmill pump-system for a couple of millennial. <br> <br>All it would require in repositioning would be for the base tripod to have one foot in the pond (on some footer, cinderblock or rock) and the shaft centered over water, coupled to the screw somehow. <br> <br>It would take a redesign of the bearing, ofc, since the shaft is stationary, but I would imagine it might take advantage of the VAWT's orientation some more.
maybe you could use old AOL cds for the screw, hmmm....
This is what I love about Instructables-- I didn't know what an archimedes screw was until you mentioned it. Went to look at images, and I think you're right. That would simplify the mechanics considerably!<br> Now, to make the screw... I can't use old AOL CDs, cuz I used all mine up to make an <a href="http://www.diypics.com/upcycle-a-fluorescent-shop-light/" rel="nofollow">upcycled fluorescent shop light</a>. Tee hee.<br> Thanks for the idea! Keep 'em coming.
if you wanted to keep the geared assembly, you could consider putting a counterweight on the vertical one to counteract the weight of the link and pump. It would help avoid the 'cogging'. Love the idea and execution!!!!!
i love it! thanks for sharing. I wanted to see if there was an electricity free way to pump water for an nft setup i was pondering. this will be pretty awesome! thank you :D
Why, thank you! I think so too.
Excellent work! For a small garden is enough! I want to congratulate you for how you combined materials, and for simplicity idea.
Thank you! It's an itch we all have here at Instructables, I think--to &quot;make do&quot; with what we have as simply as possible.
Getting down to even more simplicity (although I love the 'contraption' aspects) <br>you can do it all with fabric panels, small weights and tethers. The more surface area exposed to wind and bigger dia., the more torque produced.
Good job! Now May I suggest you use flats, not bent panels, and more of them! <br>Limit the range they can rise so they don't overshoot.
Yes. I'll also remove the CDs which aren't doing much. Thanks!
The most efficient windmill I've ever seen was vertical axis, with multiple verticle louvres in panels in a cross shape. The louvers open in one direction to allow air to pass through and close tight under wind pressure on the opposite side/direction. One side offers perfect blockage to the wind and the other side wide open and almost zero resistance to wind passage. Even a gentle wind will move it, because the forces are so unevenly/assymetrically distributed.
It works! Thanks to your &quot;louvred&quot; idea, the pump works beautifully now. For details, see the last step in this instructable (with pics of the update and video).
Huh. I wonder if I could make the louvres out of CDs. I'm trying to keep it within the means of someone living in a third world country. I guess wood scraps would do. I'd love to see how the louvres were installed in the way you describe!
If that is a very thin plastic - easily rolled into a tube, it is likely &quot;mylar&quot;. Though with CAD, it's a lot less prevalent, this material was common in engineering plotter rooms in the days of yore. &quot;Yore&quot; being the 90's...
Think airfoil. A propeller type blade's power is developed mostly on the outer third of the blade. Obviously the farther out your blades are the more leverage they exert on the hub.
You're right. I originally had the &quot;foils&quot; close to the rim, then scooted them outwards and that improved things a bit. I wonder how I can add somewhat rigid foils and extend them out even further. The weight may bend the long nail I have holding the bike rims onto the... oops, here's a picture of it now... onto the pole (in a high wind, that is).
Suppose you had a single rod going through the airfoil with a 90 deg bend at the end. This would allow the airfoil to fly 'up' when going up wind and flop back down when pressured by the wind. This would creat some more efficiencies. HLO
You're thinking right. I went out yesterday and unhooked the sails from the bottom bicycle spoke and WOW, the thing works now! Will upload a video soon.
the best 'savonius' usually have the foils crossed in an S configuration thru the center with about a 15% overlap- the one side dumps the air to the backside of the other (so to speak). my suggestion would be that you try a 'shaker' style pump. Its nothing more than a short peice of pipe or hose with a one way valve at the supply end. when it moves up and down it pumps water . I've taken the springs out of tire valve stems to make them, but plumbing pipe ones are larger. Computer mouse balls in a pipe with coupling work also. <br> <br>The biggie with windmills is surface area, the other variables are not usually geometry related (wind, efficiency, etc.)
Excellent design.
Drawing of updated wind pump assembly:
Good concept. I have read many of the comments about horizontal piston being more efficient and all. One more thing that might improve your &quot;output&quot; would be to eliminate the &quot;handle&quot;, connect the piston to the windmill wheeel rather than the gear system you have and connect the other end to a hinge. This would reduce the drag on your gear system and the bending elbow would not be needed. The only problem I see is the pump would need to be above the windmill. Still in all a very cool idea! Would be very handy for gardeners who happen to have a handy nearby pond to irrigate their garden!. I'll see if I can work up a drawing of what I'm talking about.
Wonderful! And the most amazing thing t(o me) is that I was discussing such a design last night. I thought it would work - but my BF didn't think it would. It's good to see it functioning. <br>Good instructable!
I am truly impressed at the simplicity! I like this, You have a wonderful mind! Thanx!!
Making it a windmill style could help too with power lost in your gearing (although it has some drawbacks) and also allow for better gearing options.
Forgot to also say great project and that I want to build this even with no use for it.
I know. It's kinetic art if nothing else. : ) Thanks!
The first and perhaps easiest upgrade is to change the windcatchers as they are very inefficient. The air needs to flow over them as a sailboat going upwind. I a bit of search on windpowered mechanisms will provide some pictures of efficient devices. <br>
Some are hinged to reduce the upwind drag and swing against a stop <br>when in position to work with the wind.
Thanks. I'll look into that. I've made quite a few changes including exchanging the PVC piston for a bicycle shock absorber (without the spring) and inserting CD's onto the top rim in between the blades to catch more air. It's more efficient and works in wind gusts now, but it still doesn't pull water in a breeze--which is the goal. <br>Will upload a video of the changes soon.
Hi, flyingpuppy, really good instructable. I think you will always have problems and unnecessary limits if you try pumping water directly. However, if you use your pump to compress air instead, you can pump water with a &quot;nano airlift pump&quot;. All you need is 1 psi and you can pump to at least 10 ft high (and any height up to that). The nano airlift pump is a bundle of 1/4 inch or 3/16 inch (internal diameter) tubes that airlift the water to the height you want. I have one of my &quot;world record attempts&quot; using nano airlift at&nbsp; the video link below.&nbsp; If you compress air, you can put your windmill in a better windier place and pipe the air to the pond.&nbsp; You need about 3 ft deep to make the pump work well.<br> <div> <iframe frameborder="0" height="360" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/lKtB1YKoMxk?feature=player_embedded" width="640"></iframe></div>
O.M.G.. <br>that's MAVIC, right ? <br>Where's your bike now ?
I have no idea what it is. Very high end cyclists around here. Today is the last day of the Cascade Cycling Classic, so I'll be able to bring home some real goodies from tomorrow's dumpster diving. : )
I just found this instructable on making <a href="http://www.instructables.com/id/Hardware-Store-Plastic-Roller-Bearings/" rel="nofollow">bearings out of PVC</a>. Wonder if it could be incorporated into this design. Hm....
Woot WOOT! Good for you, Puppy!!!
Simply Awesome... <br> <br>I have learned a lot from your excellent write up. <br> <br>Good Luck!
Thanks so much! It seems everything needs 100 slight adjustments before the whole works together. A learning experience for sure.
Congrats on being a Finalist!!! I'm rooting for you puppy!!!
Congrats you're on treehugger! <br> <br>http://www.treehugger.com/wind-technology/diy-wind-powered-water-pump-made-bike-parts.html
it seems inefficient to mount a piston-type pump vertically. half of the rotation, torque generated from wind power ( I can't imagine there's much to begin with) is lost to lifting the weight of the pump-arm. <br /> <br />The pump could be mounted horizontally to alleviate this issue, as water will rise about two stories between a vacuum and atmospheric pressure. <br /> <br />Perhaps a belt-drive or a bicycle chain could be used as a transmission to further increase pump torque, letting you increase the pressure applied to the pump cylinder.
That is a really good observation. The only pumps I've seen (I checked out stuff on youtube and elsewhere) had the piston mounted vertically. Of course, the blades were always bigger than mine, which is where I'm having difficulty, I think. But a horizontal piston really would save the machine some work. In fact, even using my hand to pump takes more work if I'm trying to bring water up from three feet instead of 6 inches, so it makes sense that the more vertical distance the water has to travel, the more energy is wasted. <br />Thanks so much for the comment!

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