DIY Work Table

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Introduction: DIY Work Table

This work table made of birch ply and galvanized plumbing pipe is perfectly utilitarian.

Step 1: Materials

i gathered all these things from Lowes for around $90. both utility and aesthetics were a concern, which is why i opted for the nicer birch ply top and sturdy hardware. you could certainly make this table for less money and with some found materials.

top
- (1) 3/4" thick, 2' x 4' piece of birch ply (due to space constraints i opted for this pre-cut piece)

legs + hardware
- (4) 1" diameter x 36" length galvanized steel plumbing pipe (threaded at both ends)
**if you intend to use this piece of furniture more as a desk than a work table, you'll probably want to get 30" length pieces of pipe. 30" is the standard height of most manufactured work desks.
- (4) 1" diameter threaded flange
- (16) 3/4" stainless steel screws (i think they're size 14?)
- (4) black rubber floor protectors

Step 2: Attaching Hardware

time to attach the 4 flanges to the bottom of the table.

- lay the birch ply on a flat surface (or floor).
- arrange the flanges so that there is one on each of the 4 corners of the wood surface.
- measure 1" inward from each edge (horizontal and vertical) of the corner, using this mark to adjust the position of the flange.
- mark the curved outline of the flange as well as the position of the 4 screw holes.

- pre-drill all 16 screw holes about 1/2" deep to ensure that the birch ply doesn't crack when you attach the flanges.
- attach flanges with stainless steel screws using pencil marks and pre-drilled holes as a guide.

Step 3: Attaching the Legs

- while the birch ply with its newly attached hardware is still on the floor, simply screw the threaded galvanized pipe into the threaded flange.
- once all 4 lengths of pipe are attached, check each one to make sure it's screwed all the way in to its flange

Step 4: Rubber Feet

- now it's time to wrestle the rubber floor protectors onto the exposed, threaded end of the pipe
- these floor protectors come in a couple different diameters, so make sure you get the 1 1/4" size

Step 5: Seal the Top

- flip what is now your upside down table, check for stability, and voila!

- finally, i sealed the tabletop with 2 coats of Watco Danish Oil Finish (in natural). this is a good, clear, finish that helped accentuate the grain of the birch ply while also providing a protective barrier

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    15 Comments

    Would there be a way to make the legs fold under the table? I have been looking for a cheap one or possibly making one, any suggestions?

    I saw some folding legs in the furniture making area of Lowes today for about $20. Looked pretty sturdy, but unfortunately only one height. I'm guessing around 24 inches.

    try looking at woodworking supplies sites. I remember seeing card table legs (with the folding bits) somewhere. hth

    please call this the "instrucTABLE"

    Just made a version of the table. I bought the pipes from lowes, and they came with these little orange end-caps, so I skipped buying the rubber feet. Worked great on carpet! YMMV on other surfaces.

    The table at 30" is a little high - I probably should have gone with 24". Maybe I'll just take the pipes back and trade them in for 24's (lowes has a great return policy). The good news is all I have to do is screw them off the table and the new ones will go right on super easy! Thanks!

    user

    hey i tried this instructable! i made great a desk with an extra computer cabinet on the right side. its just a simple box with shorter legs on that side. Stained it black and got a desk with real wood instead of that particle board crap for about a quarter of the price!!! Thanks for this instructable

    my wife and i did something similar to this when we built a computer desk only we used heavy duty shelf hinges in place of the back legs so no wobble.

    Definately an easy and quick way to get a table up, like for a party or soemthing.