This instructable shows the major steps in making a hammock tent with a waterproof tarp. All the materials are readily available online or in any large or small town fabric store and even some big box retail stores that have fabric sections in them. The fabric is ripstop nylon off the shelf. I was lucky (and persistent) enough to find camo ripstop for 1$ a yard for a remnant. The ripstop itself is not waterproof and for the hammock I would recommend NOT waterproofing it so it can breathe. Other wise you will wake up in a puddle of your own sweat. I used 100% poly thread and only in a few situations did I deem it necessary to use heavy duty thread. Your sewing machine should be set to a fairly long stitch length. I also recommend backstitching every foot just a tad in case the tread breaks at some point in the future. This will not allow the entire stitch run to become undone.

I did not include detailed instructions on sewing or whipping the ends or waterproofing the tarp. There are wonderful instructables by other authors that include these needs in great detail.

 I would strongly recommend using elastic shock cord for the side tie outs on the hammock and for four points on the tarp.  

NOTE:I used 550 para cord. I have read this is not a good solution for this. I double the cord and I think at 6' @ 170lbs I should be ok. It is strongly recommended to use something much more sturdy like 1000lb tested cord or mule tape which is rated in the thousands of lbs.

As always use extreme caution when constructing anything that will be suspending you or anything that is flammable or vapor horrific. 
I based this design very roughly off of several retail designs. My favorite being the Hennessy Hammock Tent. It is one of the most beautiful and elegantly refined products on the market. 

Step 1:

I started with a sheet of ripstop nylon 120" long and the standard 60" width. This stuff can be purchased for as little as $1 a yard on sale.
This is amazing
Love your project! Can't wait to make one of my own.
Beautifully done!!<br> <br> I'm really glad this got posted here at Instructables. I have a special place in my heart for hammocks as my life situation back in the late 80s suggested the hammock was the best sleeping arrangement for me.&nbsp; No, I was not homeless, but some people accused me of being such.&nbsp; My hammock was woven in Mexico and cost $8.&nbsp; The woven design is handed down through the centuries and is still very popular in southern Mexico and Central America.&nbsp; Contrary to popular belief, they do not double you over.&nbsp; If you have it set up correctly, it is much more comfortable than any bed I've been in.&nbsp; Because of the comfort factor I was bedless by choice (in my house :-)) for many months.&nbsp; Also at that time Mr Hennessy was just getting his business started and the Internet was pretty new, so we had a chance to chat.&nbsp; ...but I digress.&nbsp;<br> <br> There are a couple aspects of your hammock design that you glossed over.&nbsp; I thought they were very important to the success of the design especially for the DIY'er.&nbsp; One was the location of the asymmetric tie-outs on the sides of the hammock.&nbsp; You mentioned 26 inches off center, but a picture is worth 1,000 words.&nbsp; I think a drawing would really help. &nbsp;<br> <br> The second idea I thought needed more text and illustration was the technique of whipping.&nbsp; That was explained in the other design.&nbsp; I suppose there are many sites that get into the detail of whipping, but this is such a critical aspect of a hammock I'd like to see it in your I'ble.&nbsp;<br> <br> On a separate point, I would never use paracord for holding my body in the air.&nbsp; Paracord is invariably nylon to allow for stretch.&nbsp; Nylon stretches and stretches especially quickly when wet (like in the dew).&nbsp; What you need is a Dacron (or polyester) rope.&nbsp; Back when I sailed I used a hardware store rope (<a href="http://www.lowes.com/pd_349229-258-071514004181_0__?productId=3587892&Ntt=lehigh+rope&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3Dlehigh%2Brope&facetInfo=" rel="nofollow">Lehigh brand</a>) for all my non-stretch and non critical&nbsp;needs under 300 pounds tension.&nbsp; The polyester rope is always white with a red or pink marker strand running through it.&nbsp; It comes in two sizes.&nbsp; 50 feet of 3/8-inch costs $5.&nbsp; I would use the 3/8-inch for whipping and everything in this.&nbsp; Since you doubled the rope in Step 4, it should support most people.&nbsp; If you don't trust the small diameter rope, just go with 5/8-inch.&nbsp; And since you are trusting your weight to the knot in the end lines, I would make that knot a figure 8 knot instead of an overhand.&nbsp; The figure 8 knot is slightly larger than the overhand and less likely to pull through.&nbsp; Plus if you ever need to untie it, you can untie the figure 8 but not the overhand.&nbsp;<br> <br> Another separate point: many (most??) people believe those carabiner-inspired key rings are real carabiners.&nbsp; Real carabiners are made of steel, not aluminum.&nbsp; If you try to support more than a few pounds of keys with a keyring aluminum 'biner,' you'll break something.&nbsp; Never rely on something like that to hold you up.&nbsp; Aluminum would work for the side tie outs, but not for the ends.&nbsp; I used steel snap hooks on my hammock.&nbsp;<br> <br> Again, very glad to see this Instructable.&nbsp; Nice work!!&nbsp;
nothing wrong with alloy biners if you want to keep the weight down- just make sure they are rated.
want have set outdoor did work for want in one at all me some ?
Very nice work. I like it!

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