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I used to love the Maytag brand.  My old dishwasher lasted more than 20 years when I replace it with a new one a year and half ago.  You can't be wrong choosing a Maytag, I thought.  But I was deadly wrong.

Last week my 1.5 year old Maytag dishwasher suddenly quit working.  The "Start" button won't respond, so is gone my confidence with Maytag.  I searched the internet and found many unhappy customers complaining the same: the touch buttons failed shortly after the warranty expired.  There are basically two options, one is to get the repairman here to fix it.  The chances are that he will just replace the control panel, as well as the control board with about $150 each.  Labor is probably another $150, which would easily totals to $450, about the same amount as a new dishwasher.  The other option is to simply buy a new one, and trash the old-new one - what a waste!  The premature failed dishwasher would be in the landfill, and polluting the environment, or used as scrap metal, wasting energy. Either way you are a loser, while the salesman will be laughing all his way to the bank.

I searched the web for DIY solutions, and learned to get the diagnostic manual from the bottom panel, and then found the root cause for the failure, and finally fixed it with very little cost.  Now my dishwasher is working again. Here is how I did it step by step.  Hope you can benefit from the instructions here.







Step 1: Find out what's wrong with it.

It's easier said than done but with the diagnostic manual, it can be done.  I run two diagnostic tests which allowed me to conclude that the problem is not as serious as I initially thought.  First is to put the dishwasher in diagnostic mode. In my case it is to push the "normal->heated dry->normal->heated dry" in sequence rapidly.  The washer then resets itself and runs for a while although it never finishes.  It didn't solve the problem but it gave me a feel that it wasn't totally dead.  

Then another test is to separate the fault of the control panel from that of the control board.  This requires the control panel to be removed from the door following the instructions in the manual.  Make sure the power is turned off at the fuse box so you don't get an electric shock.  Then disconnect the cable from the control panel to the control board (a gray box about the size of 6x10 inches).  Then turn the power back on.  Once the door is closed, the dishwasher will start to drain with the motor running.  This would be an indication that the control board is functioning property.  I had doubts about this since the control board could still be bad even it passed this test, but that wasn't the case.  Well, I guess the control board is better built than the control panel.  In my case, the motor run which suggests the fault is at the control panel.  

The control panel is simply a piece of plastic with all the touch keys and a cable.  What can be wrong?  I carefully examined the control panel and didn't find any problem initially.  Then on the back of the cable, I found a small spot on some of the 14 wires on the Flat Plastic Cable (FPC).  It looked like part of the cable but actually it was rust!  After removing the rust, it reveals that the wire was broken at that spot for several wires, which explains why the "Start" button won't work.

I further tested the connectivity using a multimeter following the instructions in the diagnostic manual.  Sure enough the wires were open for several buttons, so the root cause of the problem was found.
<p>Thank you thank you!! Same issue with my dishwasher- start button wouldn't work. Bought a $30 silver conductive pen after I scraped too hard on the ribbon and used the pen to reconnect the wires. Plugged it back in and it works! I haven't sealed it yet but I will very likely use the liquid electrical tape. </p>
<p>My 2-year-old Maytag MDB7749 had a blinking cancel/resume<br>light last night. I tried a diagnostic<br>reset found on another thread to no avail. Then the entire panel went out. </p><p>I was quoted $450 dollars by a &quot;home repair&quot;<br>technician (my wife insisted on calling) to replace the entire control board<br>and the touch keys. I found this DIY fix it after kicking him out and opening<br>up the dishwasher myself and seeing the obviously corroded ribbon cable on my<br>touchkey panel as you can see in the picture.</p><p>After reading through the comments, I decided the best<br>approach would be to really take my time and use a magic eraser. I decided to try and keep the touchkey panel<br>glued on, and use wedges made from folded paper towel to try and get all the<br>corrosion off the ribbon cable. I didn&rsquo;t<br>want to risk breaking the panel during the removal process and worse they never<br>glue back on exactly like I want. A<br>little water (no soap or chemicals) on the magic eraser and about 45 mins of<br>scrubbing later, you can see the results in my pictures. The back of the cable had a bit of corrosion<br>as well under the sticker, so I removed the sticker and carefully did both sides. I didn&rsquo;t want to wear all the way through the<br>cable.</p><p>My biggest issue is that I did not want to have to go through<br>all this again and deal with more corrosion. <br>So my approach was different than many in the comments who had more<br>trouble down the road. First off (pics<br>for reference included), I attached the panel back to the dishwasher after<br>cleaning but prior to sealing the ribbon cable, to test each and every<br>button. When it worked flawlessly, I<br>knew I was ready to seal it.</p><p>Sealing was two steps for me. <br>Step one, I used a green liquid electrical tape (there are many colors<br>at home depot but this I felt matched well for the job). It was advertised as 5 min drying and<br>waterproof. I did three coats on each<br>side of the cable, using and hairdryer on low heat or cool between each coat<br>and letting each coat dry completely. I<br>did not want to potentially trap any water in between. Pay extra care to the edges of the<br>ribbon. I coated extra around the thin<br>edges on each side to keep any moisture out. <br>Second step was a 100% Silicone &ldquo;weatherproof and 30 min rain-ready&rdquo;<br>also from home depot. Many many<br>pictures for reference included. I did 3<br>more coats on each side of the cable and edges on top of the liquid electrical<br>tape. I used a square fold of a paper<br>towel to smooth the Silicone out between the coats. Also drying between each coat with the hair<br>dryer and after the last coat I left a small desk fan directly on it on low to<br>thoroughly dry it before reinstall. I<br>considered doing the entire cable, but since clearly these were the only spots<br>with corrosion, I opted to not stiffen and thicken the entire cable unnecessarily.<br>Both products pictured cost me just over 10 dollars with tax total.</p><p>I hooked it all up and everything functions perfectly<br>again. I can&rsquo;t believe how well this<br>ended up and I&rsquo;m going to sleep easy knowing that if it breaks again, there is<br>little chance it&rsquo;s the same issue. <br>Thanks for all of your help and comments, and especially to the OP. I&rsquo;ll favorite this page and try to let you<br>know over time how things are going but I&rsquo;m not concerned as I feel if anything<br>I went overkill on sealing it tight for good. <br>Some people I have seen are trying &ldquo;water based minwax&rdquo; as sealant. Don&rsquo;t use anything water based, it will just disintegrate<br>over time with the steam (water) from the dishwasher.</p>
<p>see my post regarding you! EvanL13 :)</p>
<p>Same dishwasher. In my case it would just turn on by itself sometimes when you close the door. Pulled off the control panel and found corrosion on exactly the same place on the cable right behind the sticker.</p><p>Clean with alcohol and Q-tip. Didn't get it nearly as clean as you did but fixed it for now. This weekend I'll get some of that liquid tape and magic eraser and get it all cleaned-up and sealed correctly. Thanks!</p>
<p>EvanL13 You are my Hero!!! I had the exact same problem with my Maytag.....I too was quoted a ridiculous amount of money to fix.....and told my husband....we will fix this :) I went straight to Lowes and found everything you listed, it cost me $14. I did exactly as you instructed (while my husband ran on the treadmill :)....we had the exact same problem with the corrosion right under the sticker. The magic eraser did the trick, I may have damaged one tiny copper wire by rubbing to vigorously....I coated the &quot;green tape strip&quot; with both the liquid electric tape and the rain ready silicone maybe with two coats each. I left a fan running on it for about 3 hrs while we went to dinner. When we returned and put the panel back on and started it up....VOILA!! it works and has been working for days now!!! We even have a &quot;clean light&quot; that we've not seen in ages!!! Thank you so much for posting this fix!!! You've saved us money and it was NOT that difficult. Now if I can just get my three teenage boys to put their dishes IN the dishwasher! Do you have a fix for that? lol! Thanks again! </p>
<p>The stuff I used to coat the ribbon after cleaning it up was MG Chemicals 422B Silicone Conformal Coating that I found on Amazon. I applied this several months ago and I haven't had any issues since. Here is a link to the Amazon page for this product - </p><p><a href="http://amzn.to/1W9TBMV" rel="nofollow">http://amzn.to/1W9TBMV</a></p>
<p>My problem was similar. When I pushed any of the cycles (regular, rinse only, etc), it would always select the jet clean cycle as if that was the button I pushed. I was fine with that because it at least worked. Then one night I noticed that the start button was flashing while it was running. For some reason I thought this was normal. It did this for several weeks. Then 2 nights ago, it ran the entire night. I think when it finished a cycle it would just start it over again. It was acting like someone was pushing the start button repeatedly. I tried unplugging it for a while and then plugged it back in. A few minutes later, it started running on its own. I was really close to calling a repair guy when I stumbled on to this page. I had the corrosion on the ribbon cable too. I tried the magic eraser. It was able to get some of it off, but not all. Then I tried denatured alcohol and it didn't do anything. Then I tried some steel wool and that did the trick. I didn't want to scrape so hard that I took out the wiring so I quit when I still had some corrosion left. I put it together enough to push the buttons and see that they all worked except the rinse only cycle. I have never used that cycle so I'm calling it good. After all, I bought a dishwasher not a dish rinser. I used <a href="http://www.instructables.com/member/EvanL13" rel="nofollow">EvanL13</a>'s method of covering it with 4 layers of liquid electrical tape and 2 layers of 100% silicone caulk. I put it all back together and it seems to be working. This is the last Maytag appliance I'm buying. Talk about a shoddy design.</p>
I'm wanting to bypass ribbon altogether and jump out normal and start with switch
<p>Thank you! Hoping we resurrected ours enough to get through the holidays. Just sent Maytag a nasty email about it. Our last dishwasher was a GE and we had it for 15 years before replacing it with this piece of junk Maytag. And there wasn't a thing wrong with the GE, just wanted to update the kitchen! Thanks so much for sharing your info with us.</p>
<p>Don't rush into cleaning up the ribbon cable too fast. I was experiencing erratic behavior on the touchpad. Whenever I would press Normal, Light, or Quickwash the Jetclean led would light up. Sounds like a stuck Jetclean button. I ran the diagnostic code (any 3 keys pressed within a second of each other, repeated 3 times eg: 1,2,3 1,2,3, and 1,2,3) and the error code on the clean led flashed 2x and then 1x. In the service sheet, 2, 1 is a stuck key. The service sheet mentions that it will only alert a stuck start or cancel key. All other keys will be ignored and the error will be recorded in the service history. </p><p>Anyway, I removed the keypad assembly, checked the ribbon cable (there was a section that was brown from the conductors getting hot but they ohmed out ok. I then removed the face of the keypad to expose the keys underneath pressed all of them a few times to make sure they were not collapsed and put it back together. Now it runs fine. I don't know if it was due to pulling off the adhesive face of the keypad or if the key popped back on its own. </p><p>The old commercials for Maytag always featured a lonely repairman but with their quality issues nowadays, I think he's a pretty happenin' guy</p>
<p>Thanks Robert. Where do you find the service sheet to view the error codes?</p>
<p>It was behind the bottom faceplate below the door of the washer.</p>
<p>RobertL43 -- you are my hero (at least for now)! The 1-2-3 3 x's worked and all of the lights lit up! Our problem is a flashing Start key that won't let you Start anything...so that may be our stuck key. Oddly, when I pushed the Jetclean button, the cycle started. I'm going to see how long that cycle runs and I am now off to look for the manual online. My next step will be to remove the control panel and see what the ribon cable looks like.</p><p>This was an awesome site to find. I thought I was losing my mind and knew that I didn't want to call a repairman for a 3 year-old, high-end dishwasher.</p><p>Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread.</p>
<p>Does anyone know if a replacement cable is available for this cable that gets corroded? I don't think fixing it is in my repertoire of talents, but last week I paid a repair guy to fix my range and would rather not spend another few hundred dollars to fix the dishwasher that is now broken! The symptoms are just as you all described here. I tried to locate the part on a parts website but no luck. Thanks for any help...a part number would be amazing to find! </p>
<p>The replacement part will have the same issue. I found one for around 175 bucks for me. You have to replace the entire touch key panel, not just the cable. So at best you are looking at install which is the hardest part of fixing this yourself. If not, then you have to pay someone to install it for you plus the parts. And it will only last as long as your last one best case, as they have not changed the design for the replacements. Check my pictures below. It's super super easy. Just take your time.</p>
Sad to hear they don't sell the cable that creates all this trouble, but thanks for your reply, Evan. Are your &quot;pictures below&quot; the ones on this page? http://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-fix-your-Maytag-dishwasher-on-the-cheap/
<p>My pics are in the comments below the intractable. If you look at my first comment from 5 days ago, just below yours, you will see my full write up of how I fixed it and tons of pictures just below the comment. Total cost of fix was just over 10 dollars for me. The only tool that you may not already own that you would need is a &quot;Torx&quot; screwdriver, that looks like a star/hex. There are two sizes that you would need and can pick one up at HD as well as the other supplies I listed for a few bucks. It really is quite simple. If you are having a really tough time once you start taking it apart, I might be willing to do a quick video of the fix steps and post but you shouldn't have any trouble.</p>
<p>EvanL13 pics and fix are very helpful.I call my repairman he advised killing power for 24 hrs. This he says is the time needed to bleed off capacitors. I didn't want to pull the machine out to do this and didn't want to shut off kitchen power that long. so i removed panel,and I have the same brown electrolisis buildup on mine. As a woodturner I have some polishing/sand pands that go up to 12000 grit. I started polishing the ribbon with 8000 grit and a medical alcohol swab. This cleaned off the brown in no time. Now I am writing this before testing the repair but feel confident that one or both things will correct the issue. 1: killing the power for a long period of time to clean the ribon cable. 2: cleaning the ribon cable and adding liquid elec. tape. I am considering applying &quot;no-ox&quot; to the cable. This is a dielectric grease that prevent corrosion between two metal conductors. Thanks for all the info.</p>
<p>Glad it was helpful. This seems to be holding up like a champ so far. We run it twice a day due to have little ones that need like 20 bottles a day apparently. Glad it worked for you as well and I hope the test goes well.</p>
<p>Hi I have Maytag model # MDB7749SBM2 Stainless steel dishwasher. I called Maytag and found out we were out of warranty by several months. Maytag was no help in diagnosing the machine, although after all I read I have to believe they must have some clue. After removing the circuit board and giving a quick visual check everything looked OK.<br>Went to test the latch switch and found the ribbon tape had a residue on it<br>that when down to the silver lines. Called Maytag again and found out the<br>display/touch board was back order and had no idea when they would be<br>available, cost $176.00.So I went searching on the internet and found this tread.</p><p>Looking at the ribbon there are two sides; one clear and the other light green where the oxidation looks like it started. I did not want to sand the ribbon, those lines are awful thin so I thought that since the moisture and soap mixture must have somehow found a way through the coating and made some sort of salt, the ribbon coating most likely can be remove with some type of solvent. After trying a couple of petroleum products I tried Denatured Alcohol on a Scott&rsquo;s paper towel. After about half an hour the green coating was gone and all the oxidation was gone too. I tested the lines with an Ohm meter just for the heck of it, even though I could clearly see that all the silver lines were AOK.</p><p>Now to coat the ribbon tape with something? I thought clear packing tape, liquid tape, a nonconductive urethane adhesive I use for Aluminum car pinch welds or electrical elements in the auto glass. All would limit my ability to see or remove at a later date. After discussing this with my friend I applied two coats of Minwax Polycrylic water base clear gloss finish which dried fast under a drop light. I reassembled the dishwasher and everything works.</p><p>I believe the problem is the combination of placement of the ribbon tape, a poor coating, and the hot vapor with soap that somehow makes its way through the latch area of the machine. It is a shame that the manufacture does not step up and repair these design flaws. I am sure if you replace the touch board with these type of ribbon tape two years down the road you will need to replace it again, regards Rob</p><p></p>
<p>I have the MDB7749SBB also experienced the same issue. I fixed it by using a magic eraser to scrub the surface of the cable with a bit of water. Working just fine now, but I am sure it will break again if I don't apply an additional fix. <br><br>How is the polycrylic fix holding up?</p>
<p>yes it is still working. I applied two coats of sealer using a hair dryer to dry it between coats, Its been 26 days and holding!! I'm going to look at it again next week to see how it is holding up. Will keep you posted!</p><p>happy 4th!!!</p>
<p>Well it has been a little over 4 months now and the dishwasher<br>has started to act up again. I took the control panel off and found the<br>discoloration of the cable again. I removed the coating I put on with alcohol<br>and need to try something else. This time some lines have been removed when I cleaned the ribbon tape. Over the months I have been talking to several people and it could be a materials problem. One guy told me it might be something called &ldquo;whiskers&rdquo;; tinned components on a circuit board can grow these, maybe the circuit ribbon is not silver but and alloy or maybe it is let JerryL13 has posted.</p><p>It is occurring where the hot steam vents out the handle so I going to try something else do not know what but I will see if my ribbon line repair works first. Luckily the panel on this model is easy to remove.</p>
<p>The amount of discoloration on the wires seems mild, see photo 1, but correlated exactly with which buttons had stopped responding. Before trying a fancy repair I did try to remove the discoloration with rubbing alcohol, but without affect. Scratching off the surface (with fine sand paper) revealed silver wiring except under each discolored patch. I purchased the auto window defogger repair kit ($15) as recommended and sanded down all the wires for good measure -photo 2(and as some were showing slight amounts of change that I suspect could grow into trouble later). I uses a smaller brush than the one that came in the kit and painted on a couple coats to each area -photo 4. Dry time was within minutes. I sealed the area up with electrical tape. With power turned back on the dishwasher was ready to get to work immediately. Performance mediocre as before, but at least it starts now. Thanks!</p>
<p>Thank you so much for the info about the corrosion issue on the FTC cable. Our Maytag dishwasher has had a mind of its own for about 2 years, shutting off the breaker to reset it has worked until today. I followed your advice and cleaned as much of the corrosion as possible then noticed some of the silver line was gone from the cable. I heated up some solder, flattened it out, cut a small width of it, then taped it over the missing bit of silver with clear tape, put it back together, and we have a working dishwasher once again. Shame on Maytag/Whirlpool for their lack of corporate accountability!</p>
Same issue as all the rest here. A month after the waranty ran out it started acting like HAL from 2001 space odyssey. We'd press normal wash, it'd run light rinse. We'd select tough scrub and auto wash would be selected. A co-worker had said maybe it was a soil sensor overriding our selections, seemed strange but I accepted it. 3 months later, it completely stopped, and we now had a $550 drying rack for our hand washed dishes. We did our own washing for 3 months while I wavered over buying a new brand or spending $250+ on a repair. Then, by chance I ran across this post. I'm no handyman, but really didn't have anything to lose. I was actually happy to see the same culpret as mentioned here. I cleaned it with an alcohol wipe but a Q-tip and rubbing alcohol or a magic eraser would also do the trick. Be gentle you don't need to go overboard. I tested to see if it worked before putting it all back, and it did, so I used silicon to coat the back (non-sticker side) of the ribbon wire. Target and home depot had it for $3.99. Working better than new now. I have to thank the creator of this post, and everyone who's commented on it for giving me the inspiration to do it myself. I'm now regarded as a master handyman in my house, and I didn't even have to hear the dishwasher sing &quot;Daisy Bell&quot; as I disconnected it.<br>One word... VICTORIOUS!!
<p>Symptom: Maytag dishwasher (MDBH979SAM0) touchpad malfunction (erratic) - press a button and a different function would light up, sometimes multiple functions, and the cycle that would then run didn't correspond to the selected cycle. Turned off breaker, then disassembled the door. The touchpad was just as described by others: brown stains on FPC. On this washer it was where the FPC curved back over itself under the plastic door handle. I scratched away the browned plastic coating (sandpaper was too rough, magic eraser didn't work, so used my fingernail) to reveal the silvery circuit wires. All wires appeared to be intact, so I figure the plastic coating was shot causing a short circuit whenever it was exposed to moisture. I decided to just cover the wires. I used electrical tape mastic (~$10 at H Depot, in electrical tape dept.); seemed to be the only stuff rated for high temp. and moisture. It's an inch wide, which when stretched, just managed to reach all the way across the ribbon. Cut two strips to cover the front and back of FPC (mastic running parallel to FPC), where it was under handle. Pressed the mastic carefully onto the FPC and mashed the mastic edges together to seal to itself. I also pressed a strip around the opening where the touchpad was exposed and tried to seal it to the two strips on the FPC. Washer worked perfectly when I flipped the breaker and selected the normal cycle. Couple of words of caution: 1) the mastic is thick - the two-piece sandwich is about all that will fit under the handle; 2) not sure this is reversible: the mastic seals to itself (which is the whole purpose after all, so a good thing) so it is very difficult to remove. Good luck!</p>
<p> having the same issue with mine now, was yours resolved?</p>
<p>When you say you taped all the connections what areas are you talking about? like over the part where you put the repair kit stuff?</p>
Thank you for advise. Maytag didn't start but normal and dry button were lit. after i kept pressing normal then dry button rapidly and about the third press all the lights lit up and it reset and now is working perfectly. you saved me the cost of a repair man.
<p>MDB7749AWM1- same issue with the normal and dry button lit but no start. Performed the NORMAL and DRY button sequence and machine began working. The control board and latch had been previously replaced. Thanks so much for sharing! This saved us from having to purchase a new unit!</p>
<p>Did the normal then dry button sequence. Worked great! Maytag MDB7709aww2</p>
<p>Maytag model # MDB7749SBM2 had mind of own...Would start randomly and not cycle correctly. I used GailW2 instructions, cleaned ribbon with denatured alcohol for about 45 minutes using Q-tips. then I sealed ribbon with the Minwax Polycrylic water base clear gloss finish. I thought Id try this if didn't work I would just buy new front panel....Low and behold, it worked every cycle works fine. The only difference is I took off the paper serial number off the ribbon, I think for some reason this piece of paper heats up ribbon. Most of corrosion was on adjacent side of ribbon from paper sticker.Thanks everyone!!</p>
<p>My 2 year old $600 Maytag Dishwasher control panel recently stopped working. The lights would light up randomly, and the dishwasher wouldn't operate. After finding this post, I learned that the ribbon cable on my control panel had rusted in the exact location as you all posted. Many thanks to everyone here for saving me the headache. </p><p>I contacted Maytag multiple times about it, and they told me there wasn't a recall and it wouldn't be covered under warranty. I showed them pictures and provided them with all the internet reviews claiming the same defect, only to be told the internet wasn't a reliable source (fair enough) and it was from abnormal use, or just from regular wear and tear. Their customer service was easily some of the worst I've ever experienced. Nice job, Maytag.</p><p>Coincidentally, it looks like Maytag/Whirlpool has addressed the defect in their latest batch of control panels. The $100 replacement control panel I ordered now has a coating over the ribbon cable (almost reminds me of packaging tape). The company I ordered it from said that the manufacturer (Maytag/Whirlpool) recently changed it. So someone clearly recognized the problem and fixed it under the radar. </p><p>Needless to say, I'll never purchase a Maytag product for as long as I live. I'll wash my dishes with a toothbrush in a monsoon before I ever give another dollar to this company. </p>
<p>Maytag dishwasher mod# mdb7609aws2 ser# f02207916 cycle buttons and lights will not respond. Start and cancel buttons do not work but the hi temp wash, heated dry, and sanitize buttons lights work. What's my problem please</p>
<p>Hi everyone. I just stumbled over this while facing the same problem with my 2 year old Maytag MDB7749SAM1. Took it apart to discover the same, but less severe, issue with the ribbon cable. Used a Mr Clean Magic Eraser as suggested by jdubyah, and gently removed the little bit of corrosion. Plugged it up and it's running like a champ. I will go out and get something to coat the ribbon with as suggested by GailW. Anyone know of something that might be more suitable than the Minwax polycrylic she is using?</p><p>Also want to say that I called Maytag at first and within minutes they quoted me the $278 price that I've seen mentioned in other posts. They know what's going on with this design flaw, no doubt. I too hope that anyone with this problem finds this thread full of knowledgeable and resourceful diy-ers. You all just saved me almost $300! <br>Thanks everyone!</p>
<p>In my professional opinion the failure mode on these connectors is not corrosion but is heat damage related to excess current being drawn on the flex cable assembly. The design appears to have not compensated for load condition changes of aging electronics, or that the flex cable metalization is not uniform as I see that these failures all occur at the same location. I too have the same problem as most of you as thanks to this blog I removed my panel and found similar failure mode. This is a design/manufacturing flaw that should have bee addressed by the manufacture as it is obvious there are plenty of people experiencing this same identical failure mode with machines just out of warranty. Yet HD and Lowes is selling them on sale this 4th of July maybe under a slightly different model number, however I bet they have the same similar assembly. I ask my self why do I need a ten year warranty on the internal tub and why did I buy the more expensive model with steam just to have a design that could have spent a fracture of a penny of more metalization. </p><p>Jerry L</p><p>F/A Engineer</p>
<p>I had the same problem with lights flashing and the dishwasher started having a mind of its own. I read through all of the posts, and found out that there was a class action settlement. &quot;Please contact my attorney's office Eppsteiner &amp; Fiorica @ 858.350.1500 if you own or have owned a Maytag or Whirlpool dishwasher with control panel failures&quot;.</p><p>I called the number and was provided with a direct contact number set up solely to deal with the settlement. I was told that I would have to pay for the diagnosis fee, roughly 70 bucks, and if it was diagnosed as being a default directly related to the lawsuit, they would cover the cost of the replacement part which is roughly $175. I argued over who would pay for labor, and they kept giving me the run around, but I'm going to fight it if they are willing to pay for the part and not the install labor to resolve the issue. Good luck to all!</p>
<p>Found an even easier way to repair the flex cable -- a CAIG CIRCUITWRITER PEN from RadioShack -- http://comingsoon.radioshack.com/caig-circuitwriter-pen/2760037.html. The pen basically allows one to &quot;draw&quot; circuits on pretty much any material, including plastic.</p><p>Remove the control board. Scrape off the rust. Restore connectivity with the pen (make sure to avoid short circuiting!). Test by connecting it back to the dishwasher. If successful, cover the repaired cable area with some kind of a vinyl repair glue (make sure it remains flexible when the glue is cured). Makes sense to cover in several layers to better protect the cable in the future.</p>
<p>Hi I have a Maytag model # MDB7749SBM2 Stainless steel dishwasher. I called Maytag found out we were out of warranty by several months. Maytag was no help in diagnosing the machine, although after all I read, I have to believe they must have some clue. After removing the circuit board and giving a quick visual check everything look OK.<br>Went to test the latch switch and found the ribbon tape had a residue on it<br>that when down to the silver lines. Called Maytag again and found out the<br>display/touch board was back order and had no idea when they would be<br>available, cost $176.00.So I went searching on the internet and found this tread.</p><p>Looking at the ribbon there are two sides; one clear and the other light green. The oxidation looks like it started on the light green side. I did not want to sand the ribbon, those lines are awful thin so I thought that since the moisture and soap mixture must have somehow found a way through the coating and made some sort of salt, the ribbon coating most likely can be remove with some type of solvent. After trying a couple of petroleum products I tried Denatured Alcohol on a Scott&rsquo;s paper towel. After about half an hour the green coating was gone and all the oxidation was gone too. I tested the lines with an Ohm meter just for the heck of it, even though I could clearly see that all the silver lines were AOK.</p><p>Now to coat the ribbon tape with something? I thought clear packing tape, liquid tape, a nonconductive urethane adhesive I use for Aluminum car pinch welds or electrical elements in the auto glass. All would limit my ability to see or remove at a later date. After discussing this with my friend I applied two coats of Minwax Polycrylic water base clear gloss finish which dried fast under a drop light. I reassembled the dishwasher and everything works.</p><p>I believe it is the combination of placement of the ribbon tape, a poor coating, and the hot vapor with soap that somehow makes its way through the latch area of the machine. It is a shame that the manufacture does not step up and repair these design flaws. I am sure if you replace the touch board with these type of ribbon tape two years down the road you will need to replace it again, regards Rob</p><p></p>
I've replaced the damned panel twice..... same one as your picture only mine is black.... couldn't find the repair docs in mine though.... maybe the installer snagged 'em... where were yours located?
I followed the button sequence but nothing happened.i checked for power and found a bimetal device was is broken not allowing power to go to the door latch. Bypassed it and it works! Heading for the store tomorrow. It's silver, the diameter of a dime and 1/2&quot; long. Easy fix...just pull the wires (black and black/white strip) off.
<p>Nothing worked for US. We ended up buying an entirely new control panel, to the tune of $160. When my husband took the old one out, surprise, surprise, we saw the 'dreaded rust spots' that everyone else has seen. My husband isn't the kind of man who wants to do a lot of &quot;leg work&quot; to fix something. He'd much rather PAY A BLOODY FORTUNE and 1) have someone ELSE do it or 2) just buy the biggest easiest part to replace and call it good. This makes me crazy, but since I have NO DIY skills, I have no choice. It's rather frustrating, really. . . . .we'll see how long the new board lasts, I guess! </p>
<p>I keep on reading about y'all referring to some &quot;button sequence&quot;. Where did y'all find this? I've tried just pressing &quot;normal&quot; and &quot;heated dry&quot; several times either at the same time or individually and I don't get the sense that anything is &quot;resetting&quot;, etc. I'm trying to order the &quot;right part&quot; for my MDB7749SBB1, of course, it's been discontinued, so this is NOT an easy task. I'm not sure how to figure out if it's my control panel or the control board. HELP!!!! </p>
<p>My model # is MDBH969AWB3. I turned off the breaker for at more than 5mins then Checked the heating coil for continuity and it was good. I noticed the control panel was very loose. I tightened it with allen key. I then Continued to presse the Normal&gt;Heated Dry buttons so many times till the blinking &quot;Normal&quot; light went off. Now the Dishwasher is back to normal operation. Thank you all for the hint.</p>
<p>hey..im having similar problems with my w10199645 unit. we had to replace the little white plastic piece to close the door and my DH did something with the circuit board. But, now we have to go down to the breaker box and flip the switch. </p><p>my question is did you have to press the normal heated dry buttons at the same time or did you alternate them. </p><p>its just so frustrating to go down to the box each and every time I need to do the dishes. </p><p>thanks in advance</p><p>eileen </p>
<p>I just bought the replacement touch panel (and a digital board as a precaution) got them both used total $168.00 before I installed them I bought some conformal coating spray (electronics parts store)and sprayed both sides of the cable 3 coats, taped over connector (try the conformal coating on a spot on the old cable first in case ) Of course I don't know if this will stop it or just slow it down. I will have to set a reminder to check it in about 6 months. I am more than disgusted by the lack of email response from Maytag. Well its running now and I am happy for at least 1.5 years :)</p>
<p>addition: I tried the used display with the old digi board and it worked so I put the new one on and keeping the old one as a spare.</p>

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