I used to love the Maytag brand.  My old dishwasher lasted more than 20 years when I replace it with a new one a year and half ago.  You can't be wrong choosing a Maytag, I thought.  But I was deadly wrong.

Last week my 1.5 year old Maytag dishwasher suddenly quit working.  The "Start" button won't respond, so is gone my confidence with Maytag.  I searched the internet and found many unhappy customers complaining the same: the touch buttons failed shortly after the warranty expired.  There are basically two options, one is to get the repairman here to fix it.  The chances are that he will just replace the control panel, as well as the control board with about $150 each.  Labor is probably another $150, which would easily totals to $450, about the same amount as a new dishwasher.  The other option is to simply buy a new one, and trash the old-new one - what a waste!  The premature failed dishwasher would be in the landfill, and polluting the environment, or used as scrap metal, wasting energy. Either way you are a loser, while the salesman will be laughing all his way to the bank.

I searched the web for DIY solutions, and learned to get the diagnostic manual from the bottom panel, and then found the root cause for the failure, and finally fixed it with very little cost.  Now my dishwasher is working again. Here is how I did it step by step.  Hope you can benefit from the instructions here.

Step 1: Find out what's wrong with it.

It's easier said than done but with the diagnostic manual, it can be done.  I run two diagnostic tests which allowed me to conclude that the problem is not as serious as I initially thought.  First is to put the dishwasher in diagnostic mode. In my case it is to push the "normal->heated dry->normal->heated dry" in sequence rapidly.  The washer then resets itself and runs for a while although it never finishes.  It didn't solve the problem but it gave me a feel that it wasn't totally dead.  

Then another test is to separate the fault of the control panel from that of the control board.  This requires the control panel to be removed from the door following the instructions in the manual.  Make sure the power is turned off at the fuse box so you don't get an electric shock.  Then disconnect the cable from the control panel to the control board (a gray box about the size of 6x10 inches).  Then turn the power back on.  Once the door is closed, the dishwasher will start to drain with the motor running.  This would be an indication that the control board is functioning property.  I had doubts about this since the control board could still be bad even it passed this test, but that wasn't the case.  Well, I guess the control board is better built than the control panel.  In my case, the motor run which suggests the fault is at the control panel.  

The control panel is simply a piece of plastic with all the touch keys and a cable.  What can be wrong?  I carefully examined the control panel and didn't find any problem initially.  Then on the back of the cable, I found a small spot on some of the 14 wires on the Flat Plastic Cable (FPC).  It looked like part of the cable but actually it was rust!  After removing the rust, it reveals that the wire was broken at that spot for several wires, which explains why the "Start" button won't work.

I further tested the connectivity using a multimeter following the instructions in the diagnostic manual.  Sure enough the wires were open for several buttons, so the root cause of the problem was found.


<p>ok, thanks for great tips. I repaired my three year old may tag 577-1 dishwasher. Drain light was blinking non stop. I went ahead and bought the who new key pad for around $150 as did not have a lot of time.</p><p>Easy to take all screws out and little hard getting door cover straight. It solved it!</p><p>Bought from Tampa appliance I think and saved my shipping cost as I was in the area.</p><p>I may keep my older one as had rust on back side of wire strip. May re open and put liquid tape or anti rust protection just in case.</p><p>Thanks again.</p><p>Jeff</p>
<p>I repaired my Kenmore Ultrawash dishwasher, Model 665.13742K607 using the methods found here. Thank you.</p><p>I peeled off the entire plastic touch pad. Before reattaching it, I used white out to touch up the underside where paint was torn. </p><p>I scraped off the stained circuit traces with a hand held single edge razor blade. </p><p>I used this pen to draw the circuits: <a href="https://www.circuitscribe.com/product/circuit-scribe-pen-single/" rel="nofollow">https://www.circuitscribe.com/product/circuit-scri...</a> rather than the rear window defogger. It worked really well, the line width was just right. I used jewler's magnifying glasses and a head light. I didn't use the liquid electrical tape but wish I had. After the ink was dry, I coated that side of the ribbon with one thin coat of 100% silicone spread with a putty knife. </p><p>We bought this machine eight years ago. By the time we installed it the warranty was up. We used it twice before it started acting up and soon failed to light up at all. We used it as a storage cupboard for cleaning supplies and cutting boards since.</p><p>The corrosion was where the ribbon turns to enter the slot. In my case, all fourteen of the circuit tracings were stained (rusted?) The stains reached up under the transparent plastic cover strip on top of the ribbon. I removed an inch of it to reach the corrosion, scrape it off and retrace it with the pen. </p><p>I cleaned off the old adhesive with a putty knife and paint thinner. I reattached the touch pad using 100% silicone caulk and using a bendable stick and two G-clamps, held the touch pad flat while the silicone cured over night. </p><p>I believe the water that caused the corrosion on the circuits came from liquid running off the counter and over the touch pad and not from steam or water coming from inside the machine during use.</p>
<p>Thanks so much. My 2 year old Maytag started doing crazy things like starting up by itself for no reason. Start button did not work, changed cycles to different washes randomly and finally would not start even after a reset. I did the diagnostic mode and the dishwasher ran. Called appliance service and described problem and said it was probably the control board. $300 fix was unacceptable. I found your fix and figured I would give it a try. What I found was corrosion on the flex cable of the control panel just as you described. Apparently I caught it early enough and there were no broken connections at the rust point. I took an eraser an cleaned up the flat ribbon of rust and the applied a coating of petroleum jelly to the cable on both sides. Fired it up and so far no problems for over a month now. I did complain to Maytag and they did admit this was happening and offered to send a repairman as a one time courtesy for an out of warranty unit. You would think they would have solved this obvious defect over the years. Guess they just hope nobody would complain. Thanks so much for guiding me where to look for the problem.</p>
<p>Hi James, </p><p>just curious, who did you call at maytag when they offered to send out a repairman as a courtesy for out of warranty unit? </p>
<p>Thank you!</p><p>I followed the steps and fixed my dishwasher this morning. It quit on my after 3 months of use and I was upset. As a 64 yr old woman on a budget and living alone, this was a great solution.</p><p>Thank you so much!</p><p>Pat</p>
<p>Thank you so much Evan L13 and thank your wife for me too. I am a 69 year old Young lady and did what you said step by step and it now works again. For you people who think it is too difficult it isn't it just takes time. By the way the magic eraser worked for me for some.... but I needed to use rubbing alcohol and qtips also. Thanks again you're great!</p>
<p>My problem was similar. When I pushed any of the cycles (regular, rinse only, etc), it would always select the jet clean cycle as if that was the button I pushed. I was fine with that because it at least worked. Then one night I noticed that the start button was flashing while it was running. For some reason I thought this was normal. It did this for several weeks. Then 2 nights ago, it ran the entire night. I think when it finished a cycle it would just start it over again. It was acting like someone was pushing the start button repeatedly. I tried unplugging it for a while and then plugged it back in. A few minutes later, it started running on its own. I was really close to calling a repair guy when I stumbled on to this page. I had the corrosion on the ribbon cable too. I tried the magic eraser. It was able to get some of it off, but not all. Then I tried denatured alcohol and it didn't do anything. Then I tried some steel wool and that did the trick. I didn't want to scrape so hard that I took out the wiring so I quit when I still had some corrosion left. I put it together enough to push the buttons and see that they all worked except the rinse only cycle. I have never used that cycle so I'm calling it good. After all, I bought a dishwasher not a dish rinser. I used <a href="http://www.instructables.com/member/EvanL13" rel="nofollow">EvanL13</a>'s method of covering it with 4 layers of liquid electrical tape and 2 layers of 100% silicone caulk. I put it all back together and it seems to be working. This is the last Maytag appliance I'm buying. Talk about a shoddy design.</p>
<p>Wonderful! Glad it worked!</p>
<p>I have the same model as EvanL13 just cleaned using a magic eraser, then used liquid electric tape. Worked like a charm, thank you for the quick easy fix. </p>
<p>:P So glad my wife talked me in to posting everything to help others with this.</p>
<p>My 2-year-old Maytag MDB7749 had a blinking cancel/resume<br>light last night. I tried a diagnostic<br>reset found on another thread to no avail. Then the entire panel went out. </p><p>I was quoted $450 dollars by a &quot;home repair&quot;<br>technician (my wife insisted on calling) to replace the entire control board<br>and the touch keys. I found this DIY fix it after kicking him out and opening<br>up the dishwasher myself and seeing the obviously corroded ribbon cable on my<br>touchkey panel as you can see in the picture.</p><p>After reading through the comments, I decided the best<br>approach would be to really take my time and use a magic eraser. I decided to try and keep the touchkey panel<br>glued on, and use wedges made from folded paper towel to try and get all the<br>corrosion off the ribbon cable. I didn&rsquo;t<br>want to risk breaking the panel during the removal process and worse they never<br>glue back on exactly like I want. A<br>little water (no soap or chemicals) on the magic eraser and about 45 mins of<br>scrubbing later, you can see the results in my pictures. The back of the cable had a bit of corrosion<br>as well under the sticker, so I removed the sticker and carefully did both sides. I didn&rsquo;t want to wear all the way through the<br>cable.</p><p>My biggest issue is that I did not want to have to go through<br>all this again and deal with more corrosion. <br>So my approach was different than many in the comments who had more<br>trouble down the road. First off (pics<br>for reference included), I attached the panel back to the dishwasher after<br>cleaning but prior to sealing the ribbon cable, to test each and every<br>button. When it worked flawlessly, I<br>knew I was ready to seal it.</p><p>Sealing was two steps for me. <br>Step one, I used a green liquid electrical tape (there are many colors<br>at home depot but this I felt matched well for the job). It was advertised as 5 min drying and<br>waterproof. I did three coats on each<br>side of the cable, using and hairdryer on low heat or cool between each coat<br>and letting each coat dry completely. I<br>did not want to potentially trap any water in between. Pay extra care to the edges of the<br>ribbon. I coated extra around the thin<br>edges on each side to keep any moisture out. <br>Second step was a 100% Silicone &ldquo;weatherproof and 30 min rain-ready&rdquo;<br>also from home depot. Many many<br>pictures for reference included. I did 3<br>more coats on each side of the cable and edges on top of the liquid electrical<br>tape. I used a square fold of a paper<br>towel to smooth the Silicone out between the coats. Also drying between each coat with the hair<br>dryer and after the last coat I left a small desk fan directly on it on low to<br>thoroughly dry it before reinstall. I<br>considered doing the entire cable, but since clearly these were the only spots<br>with corrosion, I opted to not stiffen and thicken the entire cable unnecessarily.<br>Both products pictured cost me just over 10 dollars with tax total.</p><p>I hooked it all up and everything functions perfectly<br>again. I can&rsquo;t believe how well this<br>ended up and I&rsquo;m going to sleep easy knowing that if it breaks again, there is<br>little chance it&rsquo;s the same issue. <br>Thanks for all of your help and comments, and especially to the OP. I&rsquo;ll favorite this page and try to let you<br>know over time how things are going but I&rsquo;m not concerned as I feel if anything<br>I went overkill on sealing it tight for good. <br>Some people I have seen are trying &ldquo;water based minwax&rdquo; as sealant. Don&rsquo;t use anything water based, it will just disintegrate<br>over time with the steam (water) from the dishwasher.</p>
It's been almost a year and I thought I would give an update. This dishwasher is still running like a top. Not a single other issue since the fix. Still looks stock and all buttons work full time. It has been run at least one cycle a day for almost a year since I did this.<br><br>For those worried about the magic eraser, don't be. It will absolutely take off the clear coat the the rust with a little elbow grease. It also runs lower risk of over sanding material as opposed to high grain sandpaper.<br><br>Anyways, good luck to all others, and feel free to follow up or ask any other questions.
<p>Tried doing this, but thought the magic eraser wouldn't get through the outer layer of the ribbon, so I used very fine sandpaper, 1500 grit wet/dry. It ate through a couple traces. Now I will try the silver conductive pen, but I'm going to order a replacement control panel just in case. If the repair work, I'll use that and keep my new panel as a backup. Hopefully the repair method will be better than OEM and I can keep this dishwasher for many years. </p><p>Thanks for posting a better DIY.</p>
<p>see my post regarding you! EvanL13 :)</p>
<p>Same dishwasher. In my case it would just turn on by itself sometimes when you close the door. Pulled off the control panel and found corrosion on exactly the same place on the cable right behind the sticker.</p><p>Clean with alcohol and Q-tip. Didn't get it nearly as clean as you did but fixed it for now. This weekend I'll get some of that liquid tape and magic eraser and get it all cleaned-up and sealed correctly. Thanks!</p>
<p>EvanL13 You are my Hero!!! I had the exact same problem with my Maytag.....I too was quoted a ridiculous amount of money to fix.....and told my husband....we will fix this :) I went straight to Lowes and found everything you listed, it cost me $14. I did exactly as you instructed (while my husband ran on the treadmill :)....we had the exact same problem with the corrosion right under the sticker. The magic eraser did the trick, I may have damaged one tiny copper wire by rubbing to vigorously....I coated the &quot;green tape strip&quot; with both the liquid electric tape and the rain ready silicone maybe with two coats each. I left a fan running on it for about 3 hrs while we went to dinner. When we returned and put the panel back on and started it up....VOILA!! it works and has been working for days now!!! We even have a &quot;clean light&quot; that we've not seen in ages!!! Thank you so much for posting this fix!!! You've saved us money and it was NOT that difficult. Now if I can just get my three teenage boys to put their dishes IN the dishwasher! Do you have a fix for that? lol! Thanks again! </p>
<p>Super glad to have helped! I can't fix the kiddos however, but I have two boys being trained also to pick up their dishes 2 and 4 :P I can relate</p>
<p>Replaced the control panel but didn't fix the issue (no lights, no working buttons) Can't figure out why there seems to be power to the control board from the door latch switch whether it is open or closed. Anyone know any diagnostic steps before I buy more parts trial and error?</p>
<p>I have a 2 year old Maytag dishwasher with the same issue, same control panel.</p><p>Steps I took</p><p>1) Push &ldquo;normal&rdquo; wash and &ldquo;heated dry&rdquo; buttons on the control panel in rapid succession until dishwasher went into its 10 min test cycle. The dishwasher being able to do this supposedly indicated the control module (grey box with electrical components in the door) was still working. Note: if you are desperate , doing this test 3 times with soap added to dispenser before the first test will get your dishes , utensils and glasses reasonably clean. After this test I turned off the power to dishwasher and waited several hours.</p><p>2) unscrew the metal front panel and the plastic pushbutton front control panel. Have a stool or TV dinner tray handy as a resting place for the plastic control panel. Take a photo of the inside of the control panel and draw a diagram of what wires go where. Don&rsquo;t proceed until you have done this unless you have a photographic memory. The grey control module had several plastic clips that needed to be gently pushed aside in order to release it from the surrounding panel. Once done, inspecting the flat ribbon cable (FRC) showed no signs of rust on the cable for the part of the cable I could see. </p><p>3)Next step is to remove the front control panel outer vinyl layer that has the printing on it indicating what button is what, gently pull the vinyl layer off- the perimeter is the only place there is glue. With this done, you will be able to see the rest of the integrated FRC. Looking at the front, at the very end of the cable there appeared to be brownish 1/8&rdquo; wide connector line on the backside of the FRC that was just barely visible on the front of the FRC. It&rsquo;s not a connector- it&rsquo;s rust. If this is where you see rust, it will take some effort to get at it and you will need the front panel and FRC free from the rest of the dishwasher</p><p>4) Disconnect the latch mechanism from the back of the front panel- not by pulling wires- there are 2 small flexible plastic tabs you push back and latch mechanism and related plastic with wires still attached slides off. You&rsquo;ll want to remove the top plastic cover of the control module. Top do this 3 sets of wires need to be removed. a)Remove the round thermal switch from the control module- it has 2 wires going to it. Remove thermal switch and its plastic attachment bracket by gently prying the plastic tab on the plastic bracket away from the plastic control module body b) remove the plastic wire holder that holds 4 large wires from the control module by depressing the small flexible tab that holds the plastic wire holder down- pull up and the holder disconnects. c) do the same with the plastic wire holder with 3 wires. You can now remove the cover on the module by gently prying several plastic tabs.</p><p>5) You can now see where the FRC attaches to a row of pins . Note the connections on paper/take a photo since you will be unplugging the FRC. To unplug, have someone hold the control module, while you pull on the FRC plastic end piece. The pins on the control board are about 3/8&rdquo; long.</p><p>6) With the control panel and FRC free from the dishwasher, you can now work at a table or workbench. To get at the rusted backside area of the FRC, first find the clear plastic &ldquo;flap&rdquo; that extends from the front panel and goes through the to the back of the panel via 3/8&rdquo; by 2&rdquo; slot cut in the front plastic panel. Push this flap through the slot so the entire flap is on the front of the front control panel.. Next, gently push/pull the FRC through the slot until the entire FRC is on the front of the front control panel.</p><p>7) To get at the back of the FRC where the rust is, gently peal successive vinyl layers away from the slot. Peal away only enough so you can get at the rust. See photo where we used wooden chopsticks, skewers and tape to hold back the vinyl layers. I used an Exacto blade to help separate the layers initially and needle nose pliers to pull back the vinyl of these heavily glues layers. Don&rsquo;t kink/crease the vinyl layers since they won&rsquo;t lay flat afterwards. Once you have exposed the rust areas, go to next step</p><p>8) I used an exacto blade to scrape away the rust and a tiny paint brush to brush away the scrapings. Other readers have used a magic eraser, liquid tape and perhaps electrically conductive paste. I used an exacto blade, liquid tape and 2 part electrically conductive silver epoxy. The silver epoxy I used was MG Chemical&rsquo;s 8331-14g (14 grams). Costs about $45 via an Amazon supplier. I used this epoxy since it will not flake off, stands up to high temps, does not flow by itself and is not water based. You can see in photo where I applied the silver epoxy to every wire line in the FRC, using a sharp wooden toothpick. Working time is 10 mins, cures in few minutes to 5 hours depending on temperature. I put a hi intensity lamp near silver epoxy site on the FRC to bring temp up around 100 deg F for a faster cure.</p><p>9)Testing the repair. Before applying the liquid tape and reassembling everything, I tested the repair. See photo. Close the dishwasher door, slide door lock into place so dishwasher will run, reconnect the FRC to the control module pins , reconnect wire sets you have previously disconnected, turn on power. For me pressing start button did nothing initially, so I pressed the &ldquo;Normal&rdquo;/&ldquo;Heated dry&rdquo; buttons in rapid succession and the dishwasher started its 10 min test cycle. Only after this did pressing the &ldquo;start&rdquo; button work and a normal wash cycle started and dishwasher ran for 1 hr.</p><p>10) After the successful test, turned the power off, coated the silver epoxy area with liquid tape and reassembled all components after it dried.</p>
<p>great website! I have the same issue with stainless steel Maytag model MDB7749AWM1. Most lights work but the Start/resume button has died. However, the ribbon in question looks fine on mine-- no rust or corrosion..looks like new. The odd thing is after removing control panel I can see several wires have melted black plastic on them (implying they are carrying too much current and running hot?) Has anyone seen this issue with their Maytag? This must the issue since one of the wires in question runs right into the area where the start button would connect.. just odd that the washer worked fine 2 years and now this happens. No changes in our home electrical system..</p>
<p>I have MDB7749SBM3, haven't used it in a few weeks but my lock button keeps coming on the last few days, sometimes with the Cancel/Drain light. Last night I kept smelling electric hot/burn smell in my kitchen and wasn't sure where it was coming from. Today I unplugged the dishwasher to see if the smell would go away and it did. I'm assuming mine is melting something also. I am leaving it unplugged until I investigate but I seldom use the dishwasher as I wash mostly by hand. I can't remember when I bought it but it was maybe 1-2 years ago. Never buying Maytag again. I doubt I used it a dozen times.</p>
<p>i have a Maytag model MDB7749AWM1 and control panel W10401496 REV C doing the exact same thing and the date code on the ribbon cable 02/05/13 7:43AM.</p><p>i have seen a lot of posts with same issue, has anyone got may tag to recall or have a replacement program for this defect?</p>
<p>@ Fdisil... Thanks so much for posting those pictures. I have the EXACT same problem on my MDB7749AWB! Same MELTED PLASTIC on wires and the connector to which they run was somewhat melted onto the circuit board - I was able to pry it off and saw the board is scorched beneath. Were you able to get yours running again???</p>
Unfortunately couldnt fix myself. Repair guy said it was the control panel (not the tape or even the wires) cost me ~$300 with part + labor.. I'd recc just ordering the control panel yoirself and installing.. took the guy less than 10 minutes.. he also mentioned this is COMMON issue with newer maytags..smh, last time i buy a maytag.
<p>Thanks Fdisil! You're the best. You saved me buying a new washer. Without knowing whether the control panel would be the fix I was hesitant to order the part. Now I can go that route with confidence. I had started shopping on line for a new washer and actually found myself being lured into the next gen version... the MDB4949 (since I otherwise like this washer) hoping the redesigned control panel would be more reliable. I had to dig around a bit more but found MANY reports of the SAME FAILURE on MDB4949. MAYTAG is HORRIBLE. NEVER again. And their customer service (ha) continues to hold the line on denial of knowledge that a systemic issue exists. Yeah, they just can't figure out why so many of those panels are being manufactured and sold. Right. I'm about to upgrade our stove and refrigerator - and there is ZERO chance that I will buy Maytag anything - EVER. </p>
Same thing has happened to mine TWICE. Maytag isn't the brand it used to be. Repairing mine again.
<p>I have a Maytag dishwasher, model # MDB7749SABO . I had to replace the control panel and when I returned the power, four lights were on, not blinking, and no other lights would operate. I read where the control panel needed to be re-programed. None of the methods shown re-programed it, still not working. Any suggestions ?</p>
<p>Did you solve the issue? I read somewhere to unplug the machine, or in my case throw the breaker for at least a minute, and then restart. According to what I read, that will &quot;reprogram&quot; the dishwasher.</p>
<p>I will add myself to the list of people that love this advice! I am as disappointed as everyone else by having an issue on a nearly new Maytag dishwasher. We bought the dishwasher for a rental house and the tenants dealt with the problem for 6 months before telling me, so of course it was out of warranty when I was told of it. Like most others, the problems developed when it was about 14-18 months old. They reported that the buttons would stop working and that it would sometimes turn itself on. If they left it open to air out, the problem would go away as long as they didn't use it more than about every other day. </p><p>I went over there today and verified that the ribbon cable was corroded. I cleaned it using a wet Mr Clean magic eraser and also used some rubbing alcohol. I did not get it to look perfectly clean, but could tell that none of the areas of corrosion &quot;bridged&quot; the green gaps between the circuit lines. An additional 10-15 minutes of effort made no additional difference in the appearance, so I put it back together and it worked.</p><p>I told them to use it at least daily for the next week and if it is working flawlessly, I will go back and apply the liquid tape.</p><p>Also, not sure if anyone else posted this here, but it is good to know that on this model, you need a T-20 torx bit to remove the screws. Fortunately I had watched a youtube DIY video on how to get the panel open and they mentioned that.</p>
<p>Can you post the link to the video? I'm having issues getting to the ribbon.</p>
<p>Where do find the diagnostic manual listed? So, I've taken all the screws out, and tried to access the ribbon, but can't seem to get it apart. Anybody else have issues with this? </p>
<p>Thanks for the walk-thru. I found the rusted area on my ribbon cable, but instead of using liquid electrical tape or the like, I used thinly-cut strips of <strong>metallic duct tape</strong> (removing the backing first before cutting it of course). I was up-and-running in about 5 minutes (though I suspect this won't last long, it will work until I install a new dishwasher).</p>
<p>Thanks for the tip! My Jenn-Aire stainless steel dishwasher is 8 years old and has a Maytag circuit board. Similar problem--start button no longer lighting up. Some control panel membrane (flush) buttons work, but not the key one. I checked for 110 volts at various key points--no problem there. With your insight, I removed the door inner panel and examined the wire ribbon for corrosion, but saw none. I pulled the label off the ribbon and still saw no corrosion. I was removing the circuit board so I could order a replacement and when I pulled the ribbon out of the board, there I found a little corrosion--but no rust or perforations. I cleaned the ribbon's end and reinserted all the connectors---Voila! Back in business!</p><p>BTW, I own the washing machine that broke Maytag's back--the front-loading Neptune. They used a 10 cent wax motor in the humid position above the door latch and DID NOT PROTECT the circuit board from wax motor failure with an inline fuse. At least Maytag did send me a new circuit board and I spliced in a fuse--that washer worked another 20 years!</p>
<p>sharing pics of the the &quot;hot&quot; wires in question..</p>
Please help! I have a maytag dishwasher Mdb7749awb2 that i cant get to start. I ran the diagnostic by pressing the high wash temp &amp; heated dry button as instructed...after this all of the lights stay on but the dishwasher will not do anything else. I cut the power off to it. I replaced the control board &amp; it does the same thing. Im asking if anyone thinks it coukd br the control panel thats faulty....I haven't seen any broken wires &amp; the green strip doesn't have rust on it. Thank you!
<p>I just want to say thanks for the step by step. My Maytag has the touchpad on top. Touchpad not working properly and then not at all. After shopping around for a new one (ours is just a little over 2 years) I was about to pay for a service call. After seeing your post I decided to at least take a look first. While I found minimal rust, I did find corrosion at the pin connectors. Tough to clean off as you can imagine. A small slice of sand paper, some old guitar wire and my air hose seemed to be what the doctor ordered. Put it back together and everything seems to be working. Now to let my wife put it to the test.</p>
<p>Thanks everyone ! I found the same problem ! My Maytag stopped working 2 months after warranty. I took a dental pick to clean mine (be very careful when scraping rust...and I mean ever so lightly). Moisture also created rust on the two longer screws holding top unit in. I plan to use liquid sealant and silicone to seal out anymore moisture. I'm so happy and grateful to y'all ! No more dishes by hand ! Before I purchase another Maytag product, I'll poke myself in the eye with a sharp stick !!</p>
<p>Several weeks ago I found that the bottom of the silverware basked had melted during wash on my Maytag MDB4709PAM4. I don't know if that incident is related, but this dishwasher does not drain at the end of the wash. The disposal is clean, the tubing is clear and there is no debris inside the works. The drain pump tests good. We get a diagnostic error code 82. It appears the control board needs to be replaced. Is there any way to know for sure before ordering parts? Control panel lights are working properly.</p>
<p>Just so everyone knows, my Maytag dishwasher was experiencing many of the same problems on here including having a mind of its own by starting up by itself. I contacted Maytag, and they fixed it out of warranty because it is considered a safety issue due to coming on itself. So, if it is doing this, contact Maytag/Whirlpool's safety department. I managed to get a hold of them using email. Maybe if enough people report it as a safety issue, they'll be forced to issue a recall. I know Maytag/Whirlpool has to be aware of this, especially on their high end dishwashers. Oh, and they repaired it for free but now, 1.5 years later, the touchpad is having problems again, only it's not coming on by itself. Obviously it's a design flaw in the touchpad. I came on here to see if anyone came up with a solution. Looks good! I'm gonna give it a try!</p>
<p>Had this problem. Disassembled to access cable. Found discoloration on back side of cable. Cleaned with some scotchbrite and alcohol. Reassembled and ran a load of dishes. Waiting for it to finish. Then, a coat of liquid tape. </p><p>Many thanks for the post.</p><p>Bob</p>
<p>Same issue, over the past few months, buttons on dishwasher have quit working or you would push one and another would light up. Finally went out totally a few days ago. Found this site, bought my liquid electrical tape and Mr Clean pads and started disassembling the control panel. Sure enough, a small corroded spot was by the sticker so I cleaned it up, plugged in and turned on to be sure that was the problem, everything worked like it used to so I applied the liquid tape, let it dry and put the panel back on. Now for the part that makes it so exciting for me? I am a 61 year old woman so if I can do it, you can do it. My cost? $12</p>
<p>Thank you so much! I was able to fix my dishwasher, and didn't even have to buy a thing! (I used clear nail polish to seal the wires). :)</p>
<p>Thank you thank you!! Same issue with my dishwasher- start button wouldn't work. Bought a $30 silver conductive pen after I scraped too hard on the ribbon and used the pen to reconnect the wires. Plugged it back in and it works! I haven't sealed it yet but I will very likely use the liquid electrical tape. </p>
I'm wanting to bypass ribbon altogether and jump out normal and start with switch
<p>Thank you! Hoping we resurrected ours enough to get through the holidays. Just sent Maytag a nasty email about it. Our last dishwasher was a GE and we had it for 15 years before replacing it with this piece of junk Maytag. And there wasn't a thing wrong with the GE, just wanted to update the kitchen! Thanks so much for sharing your info with us.</p>
<p>Don't rush into cleaning up the ribbon cable too fast. I was experiencing erratic behavior on the touchpad. Whenever I would press Normal, Light, or Quickwash the Jetclean led would light up. Sounds like a stuck Jetclean button. I ran the diagnostic code (any 3 keys pressed within a second of each other, repeated 3 times eg: 1,2,3 1,2,3, and 1,2,3) and the error code on the clean led flashed 2x and then 1x. In the service sheet, 2, 1 is a stuck key. The service sheet mentions that it will only alert a stuck start or cancel key. All other keys will be ignored and the error will be recorded in the service history. </p><p>Anyway, I removed the keypad assembly, checked the ribbon cable (there was a section that was brown from the conductors getting hot but they ohmed out ok. I then removed the face of the keypad to expose the keys underneath pressed all of them a few times to make sure they were not collapsed and put it back together. Now it runs fine. I don't know if it was due to pulling off the adhesive face of the keypad or if the key popped back on its own. </p><p>The old commercials for Maytag always featured a lonely repairman but with their quality issues nowadays, I think he's a pretty happenin' guy</p>
<p>Thanks Robert. Where do you find the service sheet to view the error codes?</p>
<p>It was behind the bottom faceplate below the door of the washer.</p>

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