Flip Mino HD it´s a easy to use camera, with good image quality for it´s small size. In good light conditions it displays a clear sharp footage. I wanted to use this camera to record my scuba diving and fishing, but since i can´t find a case for this camera, only for flip ultraHD and the rated depht of the flip case is only 30feet / 6m, i decided to build a custom case for this camera. This is the 3rd custom case i build for my photo and video cameras. None of them ever failed, and all of them have gone past 10meters depth.

Step 1: Gathering Materials and Total Cost

I´ve used the following materials for this build:

- 15x20cm 3mm thick Acrilic sheet for the main body.
- (2x) 9x14cm 8mm thick Acrilic sheet for the lid and for added thickness of the main body
- Epoxy glue
- Wood mold
- Rubber oRing
- Stainless steel bolts and nuts
- Aluminium parts from old HDD for start stop rubber button and visor protector.
- other parts

Cost in euros.
Acrilic - 3,5 eur
5X rubber gaskets - 4eur
Glue - Already have but a 2 compound seringe like this will cost you 8 eur. you´ll use about 5% of it
Stainless steel bolts and nuts - 3,5eur.
Other parts have to be scavenged so costs may change.
It also helps to have the right tools for machining and threading

In total i didn´t spend more than 15eur in this project

Step 2: Molding the Acrilic.

Cut a wood bloc to the same size as the flip camera. Sand the edges for better results, This will be your mold for the acrilic 3mm sheet and will form the main body of the case.

Pre heat your oven to aprox 200ºC

Put the acrilic over the wood mold and let it heat until it starts to bend over the mold. Then quickly remove the mold with the acrilic and push it down the mold using a shape slighly larger than the mold, to force the acrilic to shape. I used some steel square tubing previously prepared for this but a frame made out of wood should work as well. Press down hard and use some clamps to hold the shape until it cools down. DON´T use water to cool it down. If you overheat the acrilic it may start to create some bubles. In my case i decided to proceed anyway since i don´t have any more 3mm sheets and the bubbles won´t cause trouble.

Step 3: Machining the Acrilic for the Rubber Gasket

Using a drill stand start machining the 8mm part to form the seat for the rubber gasket.
Then cut the inside of the part as shown in the last image.

The inside cut should be the same size as the camera to let it in and out of the case. The gasket seat should be slighlty wider.

Step 4: Glue the Parts.

After cuting to shape (9x14cm) the molded 3mm acrilic, sand the bottom part until you have an even flat surface.

Epoxy glue the two parts. Use some clamps to hold everything tight and let the glue dry.

Step 5: Adding the Bolts.

Drill some 3mm holes as shown in the first image. Then use a tool to create threads in the acrilic and screw the bolts into place.

Step 6: Adding the Buttons and Gasket

For the on/off button i don´t have much choice as to use a screw button.

I used some brass tubing then thread the outside of the tubing and the case as well.
The tubing houses a special screw with an oRing gasket (i used this part from an old spray gun)
The button is operated by screwing and unscrewing the special bolt. This pushes the on/off button.
Use some glue then screw the bolts to seal everything

For the start stop button i used a rubber button from a flashlight. The rubber is pressed against the acrilic using the part from HDD drive as shown. Everything is tighten with stainless steel bolts and nuts. The button pushes a small steel rod that pushes the star/stop button on the camera.
Use some glue then screw the bolts to seal everything

For the oRing for the case you have to do some digging to find a suitable one. I´ve found mines (buyed 5 at once since they are very cheap) at a shop that sells steel bearings and acessories for insdustry. It is best to build the case and then take it with you to the shop so you can find an apropriate one and test it there.