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A simple and cheap stand for one or more guitars. Takes maybe two hours to build.
Mod is based on imarunner2's pvc bike rack.
Mod is based on imarunner2's pvc bike rack.
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This is a 4 guitar version.
I bought two 10 foot 3/4 inch pvc pipes and had them cut in half at the store.
11 3/4 "T" connectors
6 elbows
5 caps
2 sections of self adhesive insulating pipe foam.
Pictured is my dog wondering if the foam is edible.
I bought two 10 foot 3/4 inch pvc pipes and had them cut in half at the store.
11 3/4 "T" connectors
6 elbows
5 caps
2 sections of self adhesive insulating pipe foam.
Pictured is my dog wondering if the foam is edible.
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Good luck
Glad to be of help!
The kit is made by a company called saga - here is a link to their page - but I bought mine on ebay. The quality was better than I expected although one day when I have time and $ I will update some of the components. It comes unfinished and so I kept the natural look with some clear spray lacquer and it looks pretty good!
Have fun!
Components are obviously not top drawer quality, but considering the price, what do you expect? As for sound, *it* sounds great. The problem here isn't the guitar but the player. :)
As for whether I'm satisfied with it - I'll be getting one of their tele kits one day soon.
http://www.guitarcenter.com/Hercules-Stands-GS412B-Single-Guitar-Stand-102339512-i1142251.gc
Got most of the parts free cuz of my dad and this stand was fun to do.
1- garment rack "home maid" brand model MPG4068X0- $16 dollars (sale
priced at Canadian Tire).
2- 5ft length pvc 3/4" tubing- $6 (Canadian Tire)
3- 5 3/4" pvc tees,slip on- $5
4- 2 3/4" pvc elbows- $2
5- 5 3/4" pvc pipe caps -$4 (not really necessary)
6- 1 double length 1/2" pipe foam insulation- $1 (Canadian Tire)
7- 2 double lengths 3/4" pipe foam insulation- $2 (Canadian Tire)
8- contact cement- $1 (dollar store)
Tools:
1-7/8" wood spade drill bit to bore the 5 3/4" pvc tees to fit across 3/4" steel tube included in the garment rack.
2-reciprocating saw or other to cut 3/4" pvc pipe into desired sections.I cut 7 sections x 4.5" to offset the upper section of the unit and provide the guitar pegs,as well as provide plenty of wall clearance.The included hardware of the garment rack(2 peices) provide the elbows for the steel tubes (stand peice).
Note: You may want to cut the top knob part of the garment rack elbows off and cap them with the included hardware,unless you wish the unit to double as something to hang clothes on(with another section of 3/4" pvc pipe and 2 more elbows) lol.
Conclusion:
Pros: Looks good, rock solid being made out of steel tubing mostly,comes apart easy for transport,and I like that it's on casters.
Cons: Cost $37 to build,for $24 dollars more I could have bought a Warwick 5 slot Rockstand,except the stores likely don't stock them unless on special order, and I don't feel like waiting. Could have done without the 5 pipe caps,oh well.
Got some idea's?? I could use some help!
Greets Dereck!
Sorry if you got problems reading my comments, I'm from the Netherlands and my engels isn't so good...
Try raising the lower bout rails like I did with my design. Each side of the V
would fit with the rails in between. Then put it at the end of the rack resting
on a padded side rail for the headstock in between the side rail and one of the teeth. That should work.
The back upright would have the cross piece the teeth goes into
the front upright piece would have a padded side rail to the upright
that will have the teeth. This is the padded side piece I was referring to
earlier. The headstock of the flying V would rest on that padded side rail
right on the end.
helpful and cost effective at freeing up space in my office/studio.
Mine cost $35.55 and picture is included.
I learned a few things in the process of doing this and modified the design.
Just to preface my comments, I wanted the stand to fit six guitars in a
48inch space, because I was constrained by space issues. The big
challenge was putting my mariachi bass into the rig.
*Starting with the base is best. Depending upon how big I wanted to make
the stand it all started there. I then assembled the teeth pieces since
they are all the same parts and sizes and have the most parts. (This didn't
include any of the pieces spacing apart the teeth. Only the teeth themselves.
That is the cap, shaft and T pieces.)
*I tighted up the length of each base leg. Some of the designs I noticed
made the base legs as long as the height and they didn't have to be
with the angle that was created, so I trimmed my leg length to X inches.
*The pieces that hold the bout of the guitar needed reinforcement when
I went over four guitars. I found adding additional support T's in the
center of the lower rails facing downward worked great.
It also gives you the full use of those rails at longer lengths.
*I added rubber feet (that are included in the price above) to all the feet
so it doesn't leave rings in the carpet or scratch the floor.
*I used 2" PVC short pieces to connect the T's and elbows to the rubber feet.
(This also raises the guitars slightly more off the ground allowing for shorter
cuts on the two pieces that go upward holding the teeth cross piece.)
*The teeth for each guitar worked best for me the closer they are together.
(That meant using PVC pieces slightly under 2" connecting them.) Otherwise my guitars turned
in their places or popped out of the stand. They are forced to remain sideways
the closer these teeth are. You may want to put black rubber bands to keep
them in also. (If anyone has a better mechanism then rubber bands please let
me know.)
*The spaces in between each set of teeth were all different sizes and
I varied them custom. This by the way took a few hours of trying different things.
Each width was based on the side width of each guitar as it
stood in the stand and didn't hit the guitar next to it. If they are an inch and a half
apart from each other that works fine.
*I ended up putting all my guitars into the rig, then noting a modification and then taking them all
out and cutting off a little more or putting a bigger piece in and then
having to put all the guitars back. (I found, it's really the only way to get the rig
to work for me.)
*I discovered the upright pieces that go to the teeth cross piece and also the
teeth cross piece itself needed support. A cross piece between the two upright pieces
wouldn't work because the body of the guitars goes past the upright pieces.
So I added a cross piece to the back of the base that I tied the teeth cross piece
to using a downward support piece that ends in a four way. Then I added a leg on the four way
attached to those back cross pieces for support from the ground.
*The quickest (but dangerous) way to cut pieces is with a compound mitre saw with
a fine tooth blade. The cuts are as straight and the lengths are as accurate as
you can get to make it look good and level. If a piece needed to be taken down
slightly I used the hack saw.
*I glued all the base pieces and the uprights.
*I found with this many guitars in such a small space I had to glue all the teeth
pieces together for support or it bows in the middle inspite of the central support.
*I kept the teeth in line by lining them up on the floor after gluing and let it dry
there. I did two separate pieces (on either side of the center T support.)
*I didn't glue them to the T support in the center or the side uprights. If you do you run
the risk of the teeth coming out crooked permanently and have to start over.
That way if I change my guitars I just have to change the teeth and I can reuse the whole rig.
*I hand sanded off the serial numbers on the T's and elbows with 220 grit sand paper very gently.
(I suggest working a paper mask while doing that. Plastic in the lungs ain't good.)
Works great and was quick and fun to do. I really appreciate your idea.