Step 2: measure twice cut many

Height is 32 inches. Width is 27 inches. Front/back is 32 inches.
I started by building the base first. I used 4 elbows on the ends to give it a slight off the floor elevation. Here is an example pic the one side of the base. I've dry-fitted the rubber insulation foam. This is where the lower bout of the guitars will rest.
<p>Has anyone bothered to research the typical foam being used in this design to see if it might react with guitar finishes, particularly lacquer, and ruin them? Foam products are manufactured with different types of plasticizers, many of which will eat into a variety of other materials when in close proximity and under pressure. If the wrong foam is used here, the ultimate cost will be way, way more than the thriftiness that everyone is so excited about here.</p>
<p>Awesome man, exactly what I was looking for. Thanks so much, what a brilliant idea :)</p>
hi! i am planning on making this but i also know that pvc can be flimsy. on the peice that sticks up vertically does it bend when you put the guitars in it?
<p>Yes, I made It! Thank you!</p>
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Have not asked him about termites yet which we certainly have around here(Spain). It is about time the tech boys came up with a material that bugs don't like. Thanks to all <a href="http://www.appleparking.co.uk" rel="nofollow">Gatwick Car Parking</a>
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How much did this cost everyone? Priced it at a local store, and it was already around $30 before I even got to looking at the connectors..
That's a pretty cool use of PVC, I like it. I just made a case rack too, and decided on wood. It cost $11 in 2x4's and came out pretty nice.
Hello guerrillagator, could you provide the diagram or the various measurements you used to make the rack? I like the simple idea and want to make one of my own. Thanks!
The 2x4's on the floor are 2' long, and the vertical boards are 4' if I remember right. The diagonals we didn't measure, we just held them up in position after screwing the vertical and floor pieces together, and penciled in where the cuts should be to fit (the vertical pieces are cut diagonally). And for the cross pieces we just lined up all his cases and measured how long they needed to be to fit them all. Hope that helps.
hey man, brilliant instructable - I'm using it for GCSE work :D one problem i have is i'm not sure if the T connectors are the same in the UK &amp; US, in the UK i think there is a little lip on the inside, preventing me from inserting the whole pipe through? if anyone could give me lengths between the T connectors it would be a huge help to me, I have limited resources because the parts cost around &pound;45 to buy here, and I don't wanna screw up my work by cutting it short. If anyone can help me - thank you so much, you saved my ass :)
Here's a picture of my 9 guitar rack. I added caps for feet so it has a little more clearance, and added a center strengthening section and feet. Spraying it black was a great idea I saw on here - people are surprised when I tell them what it's constructed from. Total cost, about $40. The best thing I bought was a PVC Pipe Cutter (about $10) which made cutting all the pieces really quick, easy and clean.
What a great idea! I don't have the fancy corner foam pieces yet, but it is working very well. I added another cross piece at the back and some snazzy red paint to mine, and made it a little wider with wider spaces to fit acoustics. . The only problem is that now I obviously need another guitar. :) Here's a 'should have known better' tip if you are going to paint yours - don't forget the primer!! I already have a couple of bits rubbed off. Ah well.
i too am making this for mainly acoustics. what distance did you use between pegs? i know the original used 6&quot; for the arch tops, so i figured acoustics would be a little more, ~8&quot; or so.
I'm not really sure. I moved across the country a while ago, but my stand didn't come with me (yet). You could always try experimenting with different lengths, dry-fitting the pieces together (i.e. no glue) to see how it works. Start at 8&quot; or even 9&quot; and reduce the length until it looks like it will work.<br><br>Good luck
Saw that you made your Les Paul. My son would like to know where you got the kit to make it? He is also going to make a stand like yours. Thanks for sharing your plans.
Hi,<br/>Glad to be of help! <br/><br/>The kit is made by a company called saga - <a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.sagamusic.com/catalog/details.asp?ProductID=LC-10">here is a link to their page</a> - but I bought mine on ebay. The quality was better than I expected although one day when I have time and $ I will update some of the components. It comes unfinished and so I kept the natural look with some clear spray lacquer and it looks pretty good!<br/><br/>Have fun!<br/>
is that the saga les paul copy if so how does it sound and how easy was it to build?
Good eye! That is the Saga. It was an absolute piece of cake to build. I am a fairly good woodworker, but really did not have to call on any particular skills in the build. Everything went together snugly and easily. I added a clear satin finish to it, and waiting for that finish to dry before assembly was by far the longest part of the whole process. <br/><br/>Components are obviously not top drawer quality, but considering the price, what do you expect? As for sound, *it* sounds great. The problem here isn't the guitar but the player. :) <br/><br/>As for whether I'm satisfied with it - I'll be getting one of their tele kits one day soon.<br/>
well what gave it two me is the les paul isn't just a wood finshesd BTW if i do get mine I'm gonna paint it and if I had the money I would get EMG pickups like what Zakk uses! and paint it white (or yellow ) and black EHV style! how does it play? and can you post a video?
Sorry man, what I said about me being the problem with the guitar's sound was just brutally honest, and that is a particular kind of public humiliation to which I shall not submit myself! Well, that and a general lack of video recording devices... As for how it plays, please understand that I have a grand total of bugger all experience playing electrics. But it feels pretty good to me: good action, no buzzing. It doesn't sound or feel like a Gibson or Epiphone, but considering I paid about $75 on ebay for it, I'm not complaining.
what $75 you must be crazy i saw it for 50 shipping and $155
Ah, the importance of proofreading... I got a good deal, but not quite that good: I paid $175 all-in, not $75
ok you freaked me out i mean you said (and I copied and pasted it!) but considering I paid about $75 on ebay for it, I'm not complaining.
and guitars are the second most important (God's first)thing in my life! thats why I have a good eye!
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You need two pvc couplings to join the 2 long u shaped base peices as well,I forgot to mentiion.
Hey DIY maf's! Almost finished my Warwick style futon frame stand,only costed 20 bucks in hardware,and holds 14 maf'n guitars! It even folds like a Warwick! lol check it out! xD :
hey that looks amazing! can you please send me the instructions? I would like to build one for 2 acoutstics and 6 electrics. How much did it cost to build it? Thank you!
I think it was about 25$ for the hardware (joining brackets,bolts,wingnuts so it folds,washers,foam insulation, etc.) and the frame itself was found in the neighbours trash! Thanks for the kudos! xD
I don't exactly have a blueprint for this,I did it all in my head from examining and cutting up an old metal futon frame.tools you need are a workbench to clamp the poles and a reciprocating saw with metal blades(and motor oil for cooling the blades) Way cheaper and stronger then all that pvc b.s. too.Thank you for the kind words! :)<br><br>
Here is a three guitar version I built last night. Just connected three individual stands together. Shortened the upright a bit seemed to work better.
how would i make this so i can lean my guitar back on an angle? like this<br>http://www.guitarcenter.com/Hercules-Stands-GS412B-Single-Guitar-Stand-102339512-i1142251.gc
I don't know if that's possible- most PVC fittings are either 45 or 90 degree angles
how much tube do u think i will need for 1-2guitars?
Awesome instructable man, I spent about $16 on it and it took no time at all. I'm really glad I came across this guide.
i made one and it came out great and it was soo cheap
For all you DIY guitar standers needing a life and low on cash,,you can also engineer a huge maf'n Warwick style rockstand from an old black metal futon frame that holds 14 guitars.Or it can be made into two 7 guitar stands etc.,whatever suits your needs. These useless old pieces of crap can be given another lease on life and are found lying around free almost everywhere on garbage collection days,or at the end of the month when people are moving. Save the plumbing parts for plumbing,this baby only needs two 1&quot; couplers! Tools needed: Reciprocating saw, with metal blades,angle grinder power drill with metal bits,and an imagination. I'll post mine here when I'm done ;)
what. no gibson?
Man i thought this was gonna be cheap... but now i gotta buy a dog :(<br />
&nbsp;haha, funny :P
Awesome instructions.<br /> Got most of the parts free cuz of my dad and this stand was fun to do.
Finished my clothes garment guitar rack.Parts needed for a 6 slot rack:<br /> <br /> 1- garment rack &quot;home maid&quot; brand model MPG4068X0- $16 dollars (sale<br /> priced at Canadian Tire).<br /> 2- 5ft length pvc 3/4&quot; tubing- $6 (Canadian Tire)<br /> 3- 5 3/4&quot; pvc tees,slip on- $5<br /> 4- 2 3/4&quot; pvc elbows- $2<br /> 5- 5 3/4&quot; pvc pipe caps -$4 (not really necessary)<br /> 6- 1 double length 1/2&quot; pipe foam insulation- $1 (Canadian Tire)<br /> 7- 2 double lengths 3/4&quot; pipe foam insulation-&nbsp;$2 (Canadian Tire)<br /> 8- contact cement- $1 (dollar store)<br /> <br /> Tools: <br /> <br /> 1-7/8&quot;&nbsp; wood spade drill bit to bore the 5 3/4&quot; pvc tees to fit across 3/4&quot; steel tube included in the garment rack.<br /> 2-reciprocating saw or other to cut 3/4&quot; pvc pipe into desired sections.I cut 7 sections x 4.5&quot; to offset the upper section of the unit and provide the guitar pegs,as well as provide plenty of wall clearance.The included hardware of the garment rack(2 peices) provide the elbows for the steel tubes (stand peice).<br /> <br /> Note: You may want to cut the top knob part of the garment rack elbows off and cap them with the included hardware,unless you wish the unit to double as something to hang clothes on(with another section of 3/4&quot; pvc pipe and 2 more elbows) lol.&nbsp; <br /> <br /> Conclusion: <br /> <br /> Pros:&nbsp; Looks good, rock solid being made out of steel tubing mostly,comes apart easy for transport,and I like that it's on casters.<br /> <br /> Cons: Cost&nbsp; $37 to build,for $24 dollars more I could have bought a Warwick 5 slot Rockstand,except the stores likely don't stock them unless on special order, and I don't feel like waiting. Could have done without the 5 pipe caps,oh well.
Mhh nice idea, I'm planning to build one my own! But I think I need to change the design a litlle bit, because I need more space for my dean&nbsp;and it needs a thing where I can put a V shaped guitarbody on to. <br /> Got some idea's?? I could use some help!<br /> <br /> Greets Dereck!<br /> <br /> Sorry if you got problems reading my comments, I'm from the Netherlands and my engels isn't so good...
Hi Dereck,<br /> <br /> Try raising the lower bout rails like I&nbsp;did with my design.&nbsp; Each side of the V<br /> would fit with the rails in between.&nbsp;&nbsp; Then put it at the end of the rack resting<br /> on a padded side rail for the headstock in between the side rail and one of the teeth.&nbsp; That should work.<br />
Sorry almost forgot. You could have two upright pieces per side off the base.<br /> The back upright would have the cross piece the teeth goes into<br /> the front upright piece would have a padded side rail to the upright<br /> that will have the teeth.&nbsp; This is the padded side piece I&nbsp;was referring to<br /> earlier. &nbsp;The headstock of the flying V would rest on that padded side rail<br /> right on the end.<br />
Great idea!&nbsp; Thanks for posting this.&nbsp; I found this idea extremely<br /> helpful and cost effective at freeing up space in my office/studio.<br /> Mine cost $35.55 and picture is included. <br /> <br /> I learned a few things in the process of doing this and modified the design.<br /> Just to preface my comments, I wanted the stand to fit six guitars in a <br /> 48inch space, because I was constrained by space issues.&nbsp; The big <br /> challenge was putting my mariachi bass into the rig.<br /> <br /> *Starting with the base is best.&nbsp; Depending upon how big I wanted to make<br /> the stand it all started there.&nbsp; I then assembled the teeth pieces since<br /> they are all the same parts and sizes and have the most parts. (This didn't<br /> include any of the pieces spacing apart the teeth.&nbsp; Only the teeth themselves.<br /> That is the cap, shaft and T pieces.)<br /> *I tighted up the length of each base leg.&nbsp; Some of the designs I noticed<br /> made the base legs as long as the height and they didn't have to be<br /> with the angle that was created, so I trimmed my leg length to X inches.<br /> *The pieces that hold the bout of the guitar needed reinforcement when<br /> I went over four guitars.&nbsp; I found adding additional support T's in the <br /> center of the lower rails facing downward worked great.&nbsp; <br /> It also gives you the full use of those rails at longer lengths.<br /> *I added rubber feet (that are included in the price above) to all the feet<br /> so it doesn't leave rings in the carpet or scratch the floor.<br /> *I used 2&quot; PVC short pieces to connect the T's and elbows to the rubber feet.<br /> (This also raises the guitars slightly more off the ground allowing for shorter<br /> cuts on the two pieces that go upward holding the teeth cross piece.)<br /> *The teeth for each guitar worked best for me the closer they are together.<br /> (That meant using PVC pieces slightly under 2&quot; connecting them.) Otherwise my guitars turned<br /> in their places or popped out of the stand.&nbsp; They are forced to remain sideways <br /> the closer these teeth are.&nbsp; You may want to put black rubber bands to keep<br /> them in also.&nbsp; (If anyone has a better mechanism then rubber bands please let <br /> me know.)<br /> *The spaces in between each set of teeth were all different sizes and<br /> I varied them custom.&nbsp; This by the way took a few hours of trying different things. <br /> Each width was based on the side width of each guitar as it<br /> stood in the stand and didn't hit the guitar next to it.&nbsp; If they are an inch and a half<br /> apart from each other that works fine.&nbsp; <br /> *I ended up putting all my guitars into the rig, then noting a modification and then taking them all<br /> out and cutting off a little more or putting a bigger piece in and then<br /> having to put all the guitars back.&nbsp; (I found, it's really the only way to get the rig<br /> to work for me.)<br /> *I discovered the upright pieces that go to the teeth cross piece and also the <br /> teeth cross piece itself needed support.&nbsp; A cross piece between the two upright pieces<br /> wouldn't work because the body of the guitars goes past the upright pieces.<br /> So I added a cross piece to the back of the base that I tied the teeth cross piece<br /> to using a downward support piece that ends in a four way.&nbsp; Then I added a leg on the four way<br /> attached to those back cross pieces for support from the ground. <br /> *The quickest (but dangerous) way to cut pieces is with a compound mitre saw with<br /> a fine tooth blade.&nbsp; The cuts are as straight and the lengths are as accurate as <br /> you can get to make it look good and level.&nbsp; If a piece needed to be taken down<br /> slightly I used the hack saw.<br /> *I glued all the base pieces and the uprights.&nbsp; <br /> *I found with this many guitars in such a small space I had to glue all the teeth <br /> pieces together for support or it bows in the middle inspite of the central support.&nbsp; <br /> *I kept the teeth in line by lining them up on the floor after gluing and let it dry<br /> there.&nbsp; I did two separate pieces (on either side of the center T support.)<br /> *I didn't glue them to the T support in the center or the side uprights. If you do you run <br /> the risk of the teeth coming out crooked permanently and have to start over. <br /> That way if I change my guitars I just have to change the teeth and I can reuse the whole rig.<br /> *I hand sanded off the serial numbers on the T's and elbows with 220 grit sand paper very gently.<br /> (I suggest working a paper mask while doing that.&nbsp; Plastic in the lungs ain't good.)<br /> <br /> Works great and was quick and fun to do. I really appreciate your idea.<br />
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