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It's been awhile but I am back for 2015 with my newest creation, this project was in the pipeline for years I have drawn out plans and dreamed about doing it. So I got the chance to bring another dream of mine to life, WARNING this project is not for the ones faint of heart. On a scale of 1 to 10 its a 10 maybe even an 11 on how hard its to make something like this happen. Plus I only had a 30 day deadline keep in mind I work full time 40 hours a week and 2 days off a week. So I only really had 10 days to make this happen.

Step 1: BLOOD SWEAT AND GEARS

This is the heart and soul to this whole project, Drills have plenty of power to offer but its getting going in the right way is the trick. You can go get a right angle attachment and mod it, sadly I don't do things that way. To the CNC and lathe with this assembly. Full aluminum housing with 304 stainless right angle gears and output, to a simple #25 sprocket. The holster is a quick release design with adjustments. Because there are a number of different drills that can be used. I designed it so I will fit different makes and models of drills, just change and shift the holding bracket to make different drills to fit.

Step 2: Getting Power to the Ground

For this project I was using an old pocket bike I found in the trash . The rear rim came with a small light weight sprocket. That's gone and replaced with a bigger #25 sprocket to match the out put. There isn't much to say about this step.

Step 3: Mock Up

On the mock up I needed to make sure the front sprocket lined up with the rear tire. And how I would mount it to the bike. To solve this problem I reused the slotted plate where the engine sat and relocated it on in the frame. Now I need to cut it all apart and re-weld it.

Step 4: FABRICATION

So I relocated the old mount plate to the top of the frame to hold the gear drive. Re enforced the frame and changed the saddle. It was molded with a gas tank cover, So that was removed and needed to do body work to fill in what was missing. I know it looks small but it took about 16 hours of fabrication to get all the parts to work together

Step 5: LIVE TO RIDE

Yes the color changed from a stain to a copper tone gloss. This bike can reach about 35mph on a fully charged I-on battery. It will also turn peoples heads when you zip past them riding on a drill. This bike can fit Rigid, Makita, Dewalt, Ryobi, etc. A drill with about 1700 to 2000+ rpm is ideal to get this bike moving. Overall this bike is a great, fun to ride and handles great.

Step 6:

<p>So I know its been a while since I've posted I first would like to thank all of you for such positive feed back, I other news I am thinking about making more of these bikes for others please feel free on messaging me for more information </p>
<p>Awesome rig! Is it possible to get drawing sheet for the holster/ right angle gear mounting plate?</p>
<p>Trailer along a solar array, extend the range. ;-)</p>
I am not to familiar with powering with solar panels, I would see it prolonging the battery but it would still die
<p>Dying later is always better than dying sooner. ;-)</p>
<p>It is likely the extra drag of the trailer causes a reduction in travel distance, requires more power than the solar cells on it can create during that period of time. Take a good look at successful solar powered vehicles and you will see they have a very low drag, narrow wheels, light weight, etc.</p>
<p>What you point out are possible factors, however it should also be kept in mind that the bike may well be parked in the sun during shopping or library visits or other intermittent needs, in which case some energy can be replenished. The design of the trailing charger doesn't necessarily have to be a a conventional work either, that is where creative thinking can be employed to overcome and achieve.</p>
<p>Creative thinking can not overcome physics.</p>
<p>Creative thinking overcame a host of physics by putting man on the moon and returning him safely to earth.</p>
<p>Creative thinking can overcome many PROBLEMS but it cannot overcome the laws of physics. Not even Albert could achieve that.</p>
<p>I think you misunderstand the word &quot;<em>overcome</em>&quot;: </p><p>...<em> &quot;succeed in dealing with (a problem or difficulty)&quot;</em></p><p>You are assuming it is the same thing as<em> &quot;change</em>&quot;, which of course is not possible.</p><p>Einstein never sought to <em>change </em>anything, only understand it.</p><p>☺</p>
<p>I like this electric drill powered mini-bike idea a lot!<br><br>The &quot;trailer&quot; idea does not have to be the limit of choices.<br>A folding panel, handlebar mounted panel, side mounted &quot;wings&quot; that lift up; each of these are creative ways to overcome some of the weight increases imposed by a trailer design. <br><br>Best not to get locked into one idea when looking for solutions, (or when defending the authority of physics). Creative design can get around physical limitations of specific configurations and no physics principles are broken. Brainstorming design options is one way to explore the results of &quot;purist physics&quot; while improving performance.</p>
<p>I love this attitude.</p>
<p>Hahahahaha</p>
<p>do u think i could use an angle grinder &amp; battery to power it?</p><p> i would probably make bracket to hold the angle grinder against the tire and use friction to go.</p>
<p>theyre good master tool drill?</p>
<p>ive done this myself i have the bike all made but my issue is WHAT DRILL DO YOU USE!!!!!!! mine burned out so i honestly am just looking for an exact answer to what drill will work</p>
<p>That one looks like a Rypobi P204: </p><p>http://www.heltontool.com/Ryobi_P204_18V_One_1_2_Cordless_Drill_Driver_p/ryb-drl-p204.htm</p>
Wow! What a nice build!
<p>Wow 35 mph is very impressive. Nice build. How is the acceleration?</p>
I really love this design. do you think you could make a instructable on the geardrive you made? I'm into building my own also than buying it made. thanks and keep posting really like how your mind works.
I want to make this <br>any body hlp me out wid this
<p>Hey there! This is really cool! Do you have a video of this guy in action?</p>
<p>That's amazing, I never would have guessed that a hand drill could get an entire vehicle going that fast! It looks like a different drill on the final bike than you did for mocking it up. Did the Ryobi mock up drill burn out?</p>
<p>those drilss must be powerfull right?</p>
<p>You cant use cheap drills, Yes I am talking about HFT tools. Dewalt, Rigid and other higher end companies work great in this gear drive. Currently I am working on the next big thing </p>
I am going to put this on my<br>go-kart because it is the easiest option!!<br>
<p>this is awesome!!!!!! .period. :D</p>
<p>If there was a Noble prize for tinkering you'd have my vote. This is absolutely bad-ass</p>
<p>video Video VIDEO!</p>
<p>This is absolutely rad bro! Killer final look too. I really wish I had one. Do you think someone with little to no metal working experience could pull this off in a couple months, borrowing equipment etc.?</p>
<p>I reckon you could, Hardest part would be &quot;milling&quot; the metal stock<br></p>
<p>This is cool project..... In addition to this project in my point of view: in order to prolong the travel and power ,its better to have an extra battery, battery load indicator ,power switcher board charger circuit and alternator. the alternator run by the wheel by way of pump belt it serve as the charger of the extra battery while running, it seems like what the regular engine configuration connection do. aside from that it needs some sort of fly wheel combination and calculation to have more power charging against power discharging while running, another thing is the drill machine shouldn't be attached directly to the battery,it should be connected to the power switcher board then power switcher board connected to the charger circuit.,battery, alternator and battery load indicator.Kindly look at my simple illustration diagram 1&amp;2 . We can see in this illustration how it could be.. this is just my own illustrative opinion but I am not sure if this is a correct diagram coz' I am not an electrical engineer, a constructive imagination being as an architect only............</p>
<p>How difficult would you say it would be to drillpower a ride like this? It's pedal-driven with a rubber belt, which I'd change to a bicycle chain, or something.</p>
<p>when videio is coming? or is still raining and cold?</p>
<p>get an old battery and strip it out so you have the connection to the drill, main line a power cord out of that to a couple larger batteries and you can go a hell of a long way i'm sure, but damn this is cool looking</p>
<p>The hardest thing is the mechanism where the drill is, it could use a system like the windshields of cars ?, Well not a lot of mechanics and comes this idea, so I congratulate others is an excellent project which I do.</p>
I want to know more about the part (single axel im assuming?) between the drive sprocket and drill, converting L&amp;R rotation to F&amp;R for power to the wheel. that seems like it would work better than attaching the drive sprocket onto the end of the drill. curious...
<p>You found that bike in the trash!? I definitely need to do more dumpster diving. Looks awesome. What possessed you to use a drill? It looks like there'd be enough room in the frame for numerous types of small gas or electric power sources. </p>
<p>Really nice idea. <br><br>Not to be a kill joy, but i have a couple of notes:</p><p>1) You really need a chain-guard over the chain. Even if its only you riding it and you think you know how to ride it, it just takes one slight turn of your leg to get your jeans pulled into the gear system. </p><p>2) You could make this a lot more efficient if you had an unobstructed chain. The tensioner (the circular bolt that interrupts the middle of the chain) actually creates a surprising amount of friction which makes this less efficient. It also poses a point of failure - the chain is actually slack due to this part, which means if it was going to skip off it would be here. Possibly change it to an actual gear with ballbearings (it doesn't look like it is one). A more drastic solution would be to completely remove the bottom bracket at the back and reattach the back wheel with a new angled bracket that doesn't cause the chain to be interrupted/slacked.</p>
<p>Proper chain tensioners add no significant resistance.</p>
<p>Seeing how this is only a prototype of another bike I am making flaws are to be expected, Nevertheless I have already thought of your issues while making the bike. </p><p>1) the saddle on the unit the chain travels under keeping it away from your pants and leg as well the foot pegs keep your feet away from the chain. </p><p>2) The tension roller is a bearing with a nylon housing over it to for a super slick surface, To have a chain roll over a harden bearing housing could and will damage the chain over time. With the nylon housing over will prolong any damage that will occur over time. FYI some Harely Davidson's us a similar system with a nylon shoe form the engine to the transmission thats used to keep tension on the chain </p><p>again prototype I will be building another with as a finished product </p>
very cool
<p>It's great!!! Good Work!!! I want to make one for my little brother (6 years old) but i want to know if i will be able to use it too. Im about 1.73m and 75kg</p>
<p>I love love love this, but it's not an intractable. It's a proof of concept. Show me how to make &quot;the heart and soul&quot; and to mount it. Then it will be one.<br><br>Keep up the great work. Lot's of room for proofs of concept like this. Also appreciate the how to, to make it myself.</p>
<p>+1</p>
35 mph... measured by spedometer on the bike? by pacing alongside automobile? radar?
<p>I have been eyeballing those 52V lawnmowers at Lowes to build a project like this. If it has enough energy to cut grass, I'm guessing that it would be perfect for a mini-bike project!!</p>
<p>Completely different kind of motor. Lawn mower motors are around 4000rpm and have very little torque since there's no gearbox like inside a drill. Wouldn't work very well.</p>
<p>I work for the Home Depot and I know the mower you are talking about, I looked over the specs and found the EGO 52v mower </p>

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