DSLR Camera Mod: Plug in Power for Less Than $10

I have been running into a problematic issue with a photobooth that I made (the booth is on Instructables here). After a period of several hours, the crappy old camera battery peters out and dies. I purchased some cheapy replacements online but even those do not seem to last very long. This is a huge PITA because every time I have to change out a battery, it requires removal/reinstallation of the camera and recalibration (fixing camera pointing, correct zoom, proper focus). Who wants to do all that when you should be busy having fun?

I searched online but AC adapters for the camera cost between $80 for a legit Canon one to $40 for a cheapie. I decided to build my own. More recent searches turned up even cheaper AC adapters (in the $10-$20 range) but quality is obviously dubious. If I am going to invest in some potential crap, it might as well be some crap I kludged together myself!

Note that while I performed this hack for a Canon 10D, this work can be easily adapted for just about any digital camera.

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Step 1: Parts

Parts Needed:
Scrap battery of appropriate size for your camera
Wall Wart (AC/DC adapter) - 12V DC output
2.1 mm plug to mate with wall wart
LM317 - adjustable voltage regulator
240 Ohm resistor (I used a 220 ohm and it worked perfectly fine)
5k Trimpot
Small piece of perforated board - get one with rails!

Tools You Should Have:
Small-bladed hack saw
Soldering Iron
Hot glue
Multimeter
Bench Supply

The tools listed above are just the ones I used. Feel free to substitute whatever you have that gets the job done. The work can be performed without a multimeter or bench supply but they are recommended.

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killerjackalope says: Apr 25, 2012. 12:57 PM

Nice job... Also 10D got one myself, 60000 frames and counting, things indestructible...

lukestanmore in reply to killerjackalopeApr 12, 2013. 4:19 AM

"Indestructible" - bearing in mind the average shutter life for it is 30,000 - 50,000 shots! Hows the old girl doing a year later? ;)

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killerjackalope in reply to lukestanmoreApr 13, 2013. 6:06 AM

Still going just fine... I'm amazed

nonoodlez (author) in reply to killerjackalopeMay 3, 2012. 3:19 PM

Thanks man! I usually just use a Pentax SP F for fun but the 10D is growing on me for some of the less spur-of-the-moment type photography.

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killerjackalope in reply to nonoodlezMay 4, 2012. 2:02 AM

Weird, I'd be backwards I consider it the go to camera... I've literally hit a punter with mine... A mid range lens, ISO 400, shutter of a third to a whole second and an ext flash with the exposure knocked down a stop will kick ass for a party club etc shot...

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Phil B says: May 12, 2012. 3:59 AM

Nicely done that you can get all of the components into the old battery case. I am surprised that you can get buy with an LM317 and that you can use it without a heat sink. I just did something similar for my Kodak z710 camera, but its power requirements are twice as high (almost 3 amps.) as what an LM317 can produce, but your camera's battery voltage is more than twice as high (7.4 vs. 3 volts), so maybe your current draw can be lower. But, I would expect your current draw to be enough that a heat sink of aluminum would be advised. Did you find any specifications on the current draw for your camera or the output current on the commercially available power supplies for your camera? The specifications for my camera indicated the power draw was around 2.5 amps. I used an LM350 regulator (safe for 3 amps.) rather than the LM317 (safe for 1.5 amps. with a heat sink).

Rainh2o in reply to Phil BDec 10, 2012. 5:31 PM

in the picture his batter states it good for 1100 mah which is 1.1 amps.

The Ran says: Apr 29, 2012. 9:06 PM

Just thought you'd like to know, the battery covers on Canon's and some other DSLRs are removable (check your manual). This is so you can attach a battery grip. Canon also makes a similar AC adapter that uses a dummy battery and you might even be able to get one for the older models for around $10 (third party). There's a little rubber flap on the inside of the grip that allows the wire from the dummy battery to exit.

nonoodlez (author) in reply to The RanMay 3, 2012. 2:25 PM

Thanks for adding this.

I did notice that the battery door was very easy to take off and I assumed it is so that it is easily replaceable. Because of this, I did not mind drilling the one that was in there since I can simply replace it with a new one if I ever need to.