Instructables
Picture of DVD Shelving for $20 (ish)
I have quite a bit of DVDs and came to the conclusion that I needed some organization. So one night when I couldn't sleep I drew up a plan for an easy DVD shelving unit. It's 48" tall by 36" wide and holds approximately 360 regular cases. Of course, these measurements can be changed to suit your specific needs. I've decided to string multiple units together on the back wall of my loft.

Step 1: Materials needed

Picture of Materials needed
Materials needed:

1x6 material in 6 foot lengths (5)
2x4 stud material at 36"
1 1/4" screws (28)
Wood Glue

I utilized the KREG pocket hole jig

Tools:

Saw
Square
Drill/Powered Screwdriver

Step 2: Mark and Cut the boards

Picture of Mark and Cut the boards
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Mark and cut 2 of the 1x6's at 48". Mark and cut the other 3 boards at 36"

Step 3: Drill out the pocket holes

Picture of Drill out the pocket holes
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I used a KREG pocket hole jig to put two holes at each end of the shelf pieces . This made assembly easier.

Step 4: Glue and Screw the boards

Picture of Glue and Screw the boards
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I used the "glue and screw" method for attaching the shelves to the side. The first shelf was put in at 90-degrees at the topside corner. I took a scrap piece of wood (from the 2' cut off one of the sides) and made an 8" spacer. Using the square and spacer block, I glued and screwed the shelves in at the bottom every 8". After all 6 shelves were attached, I put repeated the steps attaching the other side, gluing and screwing in the coarse screws.

Step 5: Almost finished

Picture of Almost finished
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Finishing up, I attached a 36" 2x4 at the bottom with screws to act as a "toekick" and keep it off the floor a little. Glue and 4 screws worked.
 
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kirkwoodwest7 months ago

Great instructable. All other DIY shelves are much more complicated.

Nice job,that is a lot of DVD's, don't you just love the Kreg? I have one and right now I am making a kitchen island.
dimtick3 years ago
hey, nice simple shelves for what they are.
one suggestion. your base is to narrow for the height. very prone to tipping.
suggest using a 2x6 for the base. i see you noted attaching it to the wall. you should make sure to secure to a stud. if your securing to just the drywall then your going to want to use multiple angles to distribute the load. I also think it would be a good idea top secrew the shelving units into each other.
if you want to dress it up, run continuous 1x2's accross the shelves, then run 1x1 on the vertical edges and a good coat of white paint. the white will really pop against the blue wall and be really sharp.

if all your putting on those shelves is dvd's then there's no need for a 1/4 back panel but if you load it with that pile of books that i see in the photo then you'll want to add the back panel and screw it to the shelves. dvd's are a nothing load, but books are heavy.
mennell (author)  dimtick3 years ago
noted. I started building these because my woodworking ability was/is still in its beginning stages and I wasn't comfortable with things. As my skills have improved, I can see a lot of areas for improvement. I made this instructable 2 1/2 years ago and my skills have improved. The shelves still are there - I only use them for DVDs/BLU-ray discs.
dimtick mennell3 years ago
Thanks for the quick reply. I didn't notice the date when I responded. I don't normally respond to old posts but this time I was using my iPod and thought it was new.
Glad those have worked out for ya. Shelves are one of the easiest projects and easiest to screw up if you don't understand how heavy what's going to be put on the shelves. Woodworking shows make these way more complicated than they need to be with dado's , rabbits, etc. Totally not needed. There are simple hand tool details that are just as strong and look just as nice.

One question
How did you clamp the shelves to the vertical when you drove in the pocket screws? I've had the problem if the boards aren't clamped really well that the pocket screws may not go in tight leaving a loose joint. I use plywood for shelves because my home center 1x boards are warped and crap. Maybe you don't have the loose joint problem with 1x's because the wood is strong enough for the screw to pull it tight?
Great job, and a good 'ible..! I have a few questions, though: Did you square the unit up before attaching the opposing side screws? Is that even a valid consideration when using the Kreg pocket hole method? Are there any risks of the unit suffering racking, due to to the construction? The unit looks great, and I may try this out for our collection, but I'm curious to know if this was a consideration for you. Of course, the point is moot if you are attaching the units to the wall, huh..?
mennell (author)  BedroomEmperor5 years ago
the advantage of using the kreg screws is that the unit was relatively square. I still double checked everything with the square while assembly. I got a little cocky with the second unit and learned from my mistakes. Once I got to the third + shelf, checked each shelf. Thank You. -k
found by searching "kreg jig"