Step 0, Pronunciation: "DUG ARROW TYPE".

My name is Jonathan Danforth and I'm a Daguerreotype artist.

My Website http://www.shinyphotos.com has lots more information, go check it out, OK?

The Daguerreotype was the first patented photographic process. Patented by Daguerre in 1839 after ripping off substantial portions of the technology from Joseph-Nicephore Niepce in the 1820s and 1830s, the Daguerreotype was heralded at the time as an amazing invention. The Daguerreotype remained popular for only a short time (25 years or so at the most) because it was (and remains) expensive, irreproducible, and tricky to make in the first place. Why did a technology that had so much going against it stick around for so long? Daguerreotypes are beautiful in the way that diamonds are beautiful. Precious and rare is the Daguerreotype.

Silver + iodine + light + UV = photograph.

Check out the attached video clip to see what it looks like to hold a finished Daguerreotype in your (my) hand.

I'm dumping a lot of information about the process in the various steps so check 'em out.

Step 1: Getting Started

Get a shiny piece of silver or silver plate. I buy pre-plated pieces of copper from Theiss Plating (see my website) but you could plate your own if you want. There's no reason why you have to make pre-prescribed image sizes either. If you have a 4x5 view camera then make a 1x5" faux panorama or something... make a circle. Who cares? You're going to need to polish this sucker to a mirror finish so break out the bench grinder. The silver plate will be pretty thin so you want to use a non-abrasive polishing rouge on your new buffing wheels. I use red jeweler's rouge from Metalliferous in New York. Start by buffing the plate on a stitched wheel and then proceed to an unstitched wheel.

You should get pretty damn close to a mirror finish with this process. Most daguerreotypists will next go on to a hand-buffing stage. I use powdered black iron oxide on a velvet board. See image.
<p>how does this method compare to the original Mercury method? Is there a lack of quality in the image?</p>
&nbsp;Rubylith does work. I'm not sure if there is any difference in developing time or image quality as i don't seem to be able to buy Amberlith from anywhere in the UK. If anyone knows where i can please let me know.
What kind of Bromide do you use? Cadmium Bromide? Ammonium Bromide? Potassium Bromide? And what kind of Iodide do you use? Where did you get your chemicals? Any help would be great.
Do you have instructions o building your own fuming boxes?
Hi, i'm starting with daguerreotypes, I was wondering if you know what is the specific action of the Gold Chloride in this part of the procese? is it for tone only? thanks Jorge Marzuca Chile.
I'm not sure of the specific chemical process but the point isn't to color. The point is to convert some of the free silver into a less reactive state. It's my understanding that this is the action that helps to ward off tarnishing. The contrast improvement is a real bonus!
what a fables instructable you are so right about the art of it although i have not made dagers but he was a gennous in my eyes although i only found out about him some time ago but you are a true artist in the making you must get a huge buzz with all of this.you lucky devil iam codwithchips
Words of advice. Photoshop. Plugins Easier, cheaper, look almost the same. To much work for to little return in this mechanical process.
Easier? Yes. Cheaper? Yes. Looks almost the same? Not a chance. Check out the final video. It can be a pain but it's very rewarding and beautiful to make a Daguerreotype the way they used to be made. There's somethign to be said for homemade ice cream too, you know?
I agree. The as a member of the &quot;photoshop generation&quot; I am actually sad to see that most people just use programs to do photographic effects that are so much better when done in camera. Even things as simple as filters. CS2 = $650, a perfectly good filter = $10. Your initial photography will be better if you just learn to use a camera and not just take crap pictures and trust you can fix them with some goofy plugin. I really enjoy using 400TX in my 35mm because you really do get more enjoyment out of the images and thus better art when I have to sit and hand mix D76 developer and have to enlarge my own negatives in my closet.<br/>
congrats this is just wonderfull i attndd a mono photography course and since then i have been arguing with peoples about the possible demise of the old system this is so sad they seem to give it up so easy its lovely to see that there are a lot of peoples still doing it . codwithchips
This information has been great I am tracing my family history,My great great grandfather James Gow was a Daguerreotype artist in San Francisco around 1840 and later circa 1850 here in Australia.I have been unable to find out much information on the process until now.Thanks for the information and the links that are here have also been helpful. LATER IN AUSTRALIA
No problem, Paul. How cool to have a daguerreotypist in the family! I wish I could say the same.
this is to duckarrowtypes, would be great if you could put up an explanation on how to 'combine 2008 methods with 1839 methods by dialing in your transparency in Photoshop and printing on to transparency film with your Epson.' am very very interested. great work
Sorry I missed your comment. I elaborated on this very subject on my site here:&lt;br/&gt;&lt;a rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; href=&quot;http://www.shinyphotos.com/2008/01/28/contact-printing-a-daguerreotype&quot;&gt;http://www.shinyphotos.com/2008/01/28/contact-printing-a-daguerreotype&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;J&lt;br/&gt;<br/>
Great article! I have been looking for "how to" info on dags, and this really clarified things. I have one question though. Do the silver plates have to be exposed with sunlight (I'm talking about the actual "picture taking" part, not the "developing" part)? Couldn't you conceivably expose the silver plate in a darkroom using an enlarger? Pardon my ignorance, and my apologies if this question has been asked already.
I routinely expose under artificial light but the exposure times are quite long. An exposure under an enlarger (even wide open) would be quite excitingly long such that it would be better measured in days rather than hours if it works at all, that is. What's far easier is to make a contact print! A contact print is made by placing a positive transparency over the sensitized daguerreotype and then exposing to sunlight. The exposure time is just a few seconds and results in a very respectable image. If you really want to be cutting edge (like yours truly) then you can combine 2008 methods with 1839 methods by dialing in your transparency in Photoshop and printing on to transparency film with your Epson. Perhaps I should write up a tutorial on that...
Thanks for the tips! I just acquired an Epson 2200 that would be perfect for that.
I have been tinkering with making these and now have 2 successes. Once you get the exposures and fuming down it's not too difficult. I am going to post my experiments on my site.
What's your site? I'd love to see your results. Feel free to e-mail me with questions. Congratulations on the success! I still don't have the exposures down but I'm getting closer every day!
<a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.tylerrobbins.net">http://www.tylerrobbins.net</a> my dags are at <a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.tylerrobbins.net/images/dags/index.htm">http://www.tylerrobbins.net/images/dags/index.htm</a><br/><br/>I do a lot of photo work, I am a grad student at UW Madison, I think I will be using dags in my MFA show. I just built a really nice iodine fuming box I can't wait to try it out. I looked around the net and found a few designs and made my own new box, the old one was decaying in places..... iodine is nasty to the max. Your instructable helped get me going, I went and read every book I could find on the topic, collected materials and started trying. <br/>
I think it's really important to have people still interested in the actual process of photography, which means I think you are doing something really important by sharing this info with us. Thanks! Keep it up and ignore the photoshop idiots.
I just had a look at your site, great photo's. An instructable on how to make the leather binders would be great too.
OK. As soon as I finish up the Ambonya burl inlay case for a piece I'll make a leather case and take shots as I go.
Wonderul instructable. You've inspired me to get out the old Speed Graphic and start building.
Go for it! One great thing about making daguerreotypes is that there is a treasure trove of equipment on eBay for next to nothing.
Hey, I make dags, too! This is such a cool site, but I have to say making dags is not as easy as it looks... <br/>Check out myspace url to see some of my pix (yeah, I know myspace is pretty dorky, but as an anachronist I find myself simply unable or at least unwilling to make a real webpage.)<br/>Great job!<br/><a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.myspace.com/erinsinnerspace">http://www.myspace.com/erinsinnerspace</a><br/>
THAT IS AWESOME! I never thought in a million years that I would find another Daguerreotypist by posting this. I'll link to your page on my site.
did you (or someone) try (or could you commercialize) the idea of having a well polished (inside) silver (flat) medallion, to be exposed inside directly with the pict let<sup>s say of some (or something) well loved ? and later the medallion could be sold with the pict directly made on the inside as a well protected dag ?</sup><br/><br/>and did someone already try to reproduce by contact a 35 mm bw negative (or positive) using that way ? <br/>you could even cut the negative to fit the inside of the medallion, wich once exposed by contact and directly &quot;developped&quot; receives the cover ( supposedly a desarmable hinge, to faciltate processing , would be used) and becomes a directly made artwork. decorated silver outside, a dag inside... woawww<br/>(idea TM Zappymax... :-) ... just in case. and franchising or partnership welcome !!!<br/><br/>if silver medallions are necessary, in Taxco or other parts of Mexico they could become available and made on precise demand. silverwork is a real craftmanship there. also plated plates could be produced at a lower price than in the Usa i suppose. so next year have travel to those places and check that... and call me to see if practically and commercially that would be interesting... <br/> phsov@hotmail.com<br/>
I've thought a great deal about applying daguerreotype images directly to silver-plated things. The challenge is in protecting the image. Other daguerreotypists have tried and failed to pour a liquid surface protectant on a dag.
hi, just finding this site by chance.<br/>i saw in washington a serie of dags in a low light gallery. it<sup>s important to remember the dags must be protected from light, therefore the covered box or frame. </sup><br/>the low sensibility also reserves the dag to artistic/nature morte use, no way to pose for a wedding pict. <br/>even if old picts *bromure) were made using &quot;immobilisation&quot; brackets to keep the people steady for long seconds if not minutes, meanwhile the pict was made.<br/>but there are many portraits made with dags. so the model had to be a real &quot;patient&quot; , waiting and suffering... but after all...<br/><br/>also well considered, the secrecy of access (the result is visible under the cover of some box...in low light conditions .. ) rejoins an interest to avoid &quot;exposure&quot; of oneself or one object to the eyes of anybody. Dags are a kind of retro fit into privacy. you keep the pict of your loved one (any kind) under cover, for your eyes only, and a few others. restricted access. even a small one (wich now could be made with a modified 35mm) inside a silver or gold medallion on your neck. not a bad idea after all, <br/>
Gosh, there's an almost eerie, ghostly quality to dageurrotypes that I don't think can be imitated by a digital camera and Photoshop. Not even black and white photographs made on film by the great photographers (such as Ansel Adams) has that same quality. Even images of contemporary subjects end up looking like they're from another place beyond this one. I've seen the results of attempts to try to "antique" a photo, and it just never looks quite right. If tercero cannot see the difference in artistic quality between a true daguerrotype and an imitation, then the loss is his. This is a FANTASTIC and very informative instructable which has been a privilege to find. I also really appreciated erinwilliamson's pictures, which I think to an excellent job of illustrating my point.
any hints on silver-plating glass and using that?
Tercero, don't insult people about their hobbies and work. This site is called "Instructables" in case you missed that. As in, "instruct others how to do something that's cool". Overall, a wonderful instructable. That was an interesting read, and I can tell you put a lot of work into it. I think I'll look at daguerreotypes with a little more respect next time I see one!
This is a quality instructable. Thanks Pete
Agreed. It's not something I'll be doing, but it's very interesting, very well documented and not something you see every day. Good work and thanks.
with respect, tecero, I think you've missed the point
you are my hero.
Wow, I think it seems too pricey, and too much work. But wow, it looks great. I can only imagine having a wedding photo on one. Well done

About This Instructable




Bio: I'm an artist using the old Daguerreotype method of photography invented in 1839. Since there hasn't been a Daguerreotype supply shop for about ... More »
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