Step 2: Construct Blade Part 2

The LED's should all be joined together with a common anode and 5 separate wires running of each five banks back to a plug to connect to the ignitor board. I used a relatively expensive microphone plug. It looks cool so Im happy with it.

Once all the LED's are constructed and you have a plug on the end, it's time to find something to put them all in. Other sabers I have seen on the web use polycarbonate tubing. I'm on a budget and don't actually expect to be beating anyone with my saber so I opted for the cheaper acrylic.

The tube is water clear so with the LED's in place you can see each one light up which doesn't really give me the saber glow.

So some type of diffuser is required. I am still experimenting but I'm quite happy with clear cellophane that I scotch bright in various directions.

I feed the rolled up cellophane into the tube then feed in the LED's. Some care is required but the LED's are quite flexable in this condition so put up with a bit of abuse.

On the end I bought a plastic bung that fits in tightly so should prevent any moisture getting in.
This was really helpful!
Have a look here https://www.instructables.com/id/Light-Saber-Igniter/<br>
<p>Check out my micro free version here https://www.instructables.com/id/Light-Saber-Igniter/</p>
is there a way to modify the code to run on a PIC16C57?
Hmm, i wish there were pictures to show the final piece. but anyways. i was wondering if anybody knew a place to get the tube for the blade?. and a good credible yet cheap site for LEDs. and im not looking for the blade to "extend" or sound id rather it simply light up. so i was wondering what all i would need for that thanks
pretty cool idea and I love darth maul (wished they showed more of him in any movie he COULD of been in ) but I don't care for your hilt88 just an opinion
this is more like it, ps don't know why it came out as &quot;hilt88&quot; <sup></sup><br/>
theres no pic or video so we can see it?
"to the people who built this light saber" i was just wondering if it looks like a light saber. thanks
What was the view angle of your LEDs?
hey, anyone here want post some Instructable about, how to make one more easier, cause, I live in Brazil and you know, is hard and expansive have access to some things, like those pic projects...i have some projects with some simple electronics, but i just don't have finished because, I'm lacking some info about LEDs, and electronics, if someone have some information about make this same effect of ignition without pic, i would be grateful.....
im still confused make a more simple 1 dude but this 1 was awsome (forced by state of law)
I know at this point I'm kind of spamming but could you let me know what types of resistors you used and where you got the 5 volt regulator? I'm really going to build this so any other information you could give me would be great.
Hey, On step 3 I have added the schematic and board layout that you can edit in Eagle (free pcb layout software) . You should use methods described on this site to make the PCB. I used clear cellophane as a diffuser I would not recommend defused LED's as they won't be as bright as the clear type. You need to get LED's with the widest possible viewing angle. Where ever you get the LED's from should have the regulator - must be able to take a high current!
Hey I know your kind of busy with everyone and everything but I have a couple a questions real fast before I actually buy this stuff. Where did you get your pcb from? And do you know of any place or method to make or buy a pcb thats really cheap? I want to battle with this is polycarbonate tubing the only change I need to make? I found a place that sells diffused LEDs do you think those with the polycarbonate tubing would be enough to get a blade effect or do you think I would still have to buy another diffuser? And could you just draw a diagram on the circuit board picture to let me know where all the ICs and wires go? Thank you very much
Oh one more question do you anything about rechargeable batteries? Like Im looking into powering this with a lithium ion rechargeable battery. Do you anything about making a charger or something like that? Or is as simple as just plug an ac adapter in the wall and let it charge off that?
Ok one more thing (sorry for the multiple posts) How many volts does this take to run? Or just how many batteries did you use and how long does it run before you have to replace them?
Hey I'm just wondering is it on this page <a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.rev-ed.co.uk/picaxe/">http://www.rev-ed.co.uk/picaxe/</a> ? and if so did you buy the tutorial or the starter kit?<br/>
I did buy a starter kit but for this project you only need the 18x chip. If you have not delt with PICS before you should get the starter kit as everything is good to go out of the box.
Could you put a picture of the back? A schematic would be great, too. I'd really like to see how you hooked it up to a computer to program that thing. Also, I bet you could put those LEDs in a series circuit instead of parallel, giving you a small delay in each block of 10 for better resolution.
You can look at a PCB layout here<a rel="nofollow" href="http://static.flickr.com/57/159799942_01da891211.jpg">PCB</a> if you are into making your own boards you will just have to make a negative of this one. To connect to the PC for programming I use picaxe microcontrollers which can be programmed via usb. Sparkfun.com have a range of these chips. Because the eye isn't that quick to see each segment light up greater resolution is'nt to critical. <br/>
maybe you couls spill some kind of solvent through the pipe to get the inner side of the tube translucent.
Wow, great tutorial~ Any good for the sound board? How to build it??
sound board was bought assembled at custom saber shop, see link below.
Excelent tutorial! Is it too dificoult to program the PICAXE 18x, wont the 18A or 18 be enough for this simple task of fireing up the saber blade? I want to program mine so it has 3 diferent speeds of "scrolling". How can one know when the code we wrote is correct?
The program would be identical for an 18x and 18a or 18 for that matter. You could change the fire up/down speed with a simple delay. Or you could get real tricky and use one of the analogue inputs with variable resistor to adjust the speed manually!
You can get a circuit board layout here <a rel="nofollow" href="http://blog.myspace.com/jason_mumby">http://blog.myspace.com/jason_mumby</a><br/>
There seems to be an issue with that link or your myspace page. I hope every thing is ok with you and it's not down due to life ick.
Sorry this got posted some many times. BTW
There seems to be an issue with that link or your myspace page. I hope every thing is ok with you and it's not down due to life ick.
There seems to be an issue with that link or your myspace page. I hope every thing is ok with you and it's not down due to life ick.
I was wondering how bright your lightsaber is. I built on for cheap with EL wire, which was fine for me except that you can't see it in daylight very well. Also,I tried experimenting with an LED with some spare tubing I had once (I used polypropelene tubing as a diffuser) and it was obviously a pinpoint of light...does your diffuser work as well in daylight? Also, what's the OD/ID of the arcylic tubing you use? I know it's a lot of questions, but building an LED lightsaber that could be comperable to the Master FX ones has been on my mind for some time now.
I'f you look at some of the Vid files you can see how bright the blade is. it realy very impressive
"Invalid Friend ID. This user has either cancelled their membership, or their account has been deleted." :(( do you have a wiring diagram and parts list please ???
do you have a wiring diagram showing the soundboard, main board, switch, and leds. also do you have the link to where you picked up your sound board?
I will post a diagram soon you can find heaps of tips and parts at www.thecustomesabershop.com
Those diagrams would deffinantly be aprecated... the saber shop link apears to be broken by the way.
thank you
thank you
Might I ask what you payed for the LEDs?
you can find the led's I used here <a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.besthongkong.com/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=&amp;products_id=15">http://www.besthongkong.com/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=&amp;products_id=15</a><br/>
Really Interesting Project, I am interested to know if you had more details on the LEDs that where used. what was the larger viewing angle?
Hey you can find the leds I used here <a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.besthongkong.com/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=&amp;products_id=15.">http://www.besthongkong.com/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=&amp;products_id=15.</a> they were 40 degrees<br/>
You found out firsthand a common misperception regarding LEDs: mcd != light output (which would be lumens). Cheap LEDs that advertise superhigh mcd usually do so by throwing a very narrow beam.<br/>
I think those are reistors. What is the purpose of those.
the resistors limit the current going intot the LEDs. Without them the LEDs wouldn't last very long
You could sand the outside of the tube till it is diffused enough to your liking. also ,cut up and taped together plastic file folders can diffuse light quite effectively
The cellophane is usaully sold in stationary shops or bookstores. Usually you get it in colours. The more cellophane you use the less likely you will see the LED's. You could use mylar. Try not to use paint, the theory is that the cellophane reflects the light around the tube where as paint will block it in.
cool design, I want to build something similar but with fewer led's. I plan to use a plastic flourescent light holder (clear plastic pipe) $2 at the local OhmDepot store but I was stuck on frosting the plastic. I considered white paint and partchment paper. Where do you get this cellophane? Do scotch bright pads really give a strong frost so you dont see the LEDs? Can the clear tube itself be done this way so you dont have to use an insert? What I have used so far is the disposable 3ft tubes from HP plotter paper which are already translucent white plastic but those are hard to come by. The diameter is 2inch for a thick 'Texas style' saber.

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