Introduction: Build a Deadmau5 Head Rhinestone Version
Section Updated: Prices & Materials
So have you seen deadmau5's head and thought "Hell ill make one my self"?
Well now you can!
Now alot of people have asked me on how i made the rhinestone version of my deadmau5 head with the in built cooling system.
Well after much thinking i thought i would put this little guide together to show you how i did it.
I will try and be as detailed as i can.
For those of you who are wondering what my rhinestone version looked like take a look at this video
Even deadmau5 himeself commented on my video!
Click here to see the video he commented on - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LE6Pb0SkXxg
Here is one of our latest heads below.....
Buy Deadmau5 Head http://www.makemymau5.co.uk also for more info & photos!
Please if you liked this guide, subscribe, like, share!! You know the drill!
And please post your finished heads here.
Im also here to help answer any questions you may have too!!
Step 1: What You Need - the Materials
You will need to have alot of patience. Most of it when it comes to the fabric/rhinestoning part!
Materials Needed - Purchased On Ebay Uk
- - 13" Polycarbonate Outside Light Globe - £11.00 GBP = 18.00 USD (Electrical Shop)
- - 1 x Builders Helmet With Inside Harness - £1.50 GBP = 2.07 USD (Tool Station)
- - 1 x Wire Mesh Food Cover 30cm Diameter (Optional) - £6.00 GBP = 9.79 USD (Amazon*)
- - 1 x Pack of washers M6 - £1.00 GBP = 1.63 USD (Tool Station)
- - 1 x Pack of wingnuts M6 - £1.00 GBP = 1.63 USD (Tool Station)
- - 1 x 500 Ml Heavy Duty Adhesive Spray (Optional) - £4.95 GBP = 8.07 USD (Ebay*)
- - 2 x Meters Of White 4 Way Stretch Fabric (Optional) - £7.00 GBP = 11.42USD (Ebay*)
- - 1 x Roll Of Door Draught Excluder (8mm Thick) - £1.98 GBP = 3.23 USD (Ebay*)
- - 1 x 10cm Acrylic Ball Which Is In 2 Halves - £ 5.95 GBP = 9.70 USD (Ebay*)
- - 4 x Sheets Of 5mm Foam Board - £4.95 GBP = 8.07 USD (Ebay, Craft Shop)
- - 2 x 1 Meter x 6mm Threaded Rods - £3.50 GBP = 5.71 USD (B&Q & Tool Station)
- - 1 x 400ml Plasti Kote Primer - £7.95 GBP = 12.9729 USD (Focus)
- - 1 x 100ml White Matt Plasti Kote Spraypaint - £3.45 GBP = 5.62 USD (Focus)
- - 2 x 100ml Chrome Effect Plasti Kote Spraypaint - £ 7.90 GBP = 12.89 USD (Focus)
- - 10,000 x Gold 6mm Flatbacked Rhinestones - £25.00 GBP = 40.79 USD (Ebay*)
- - 500 x Gold 3mm Rhinestones (Gap Filling) - £1.98 GBP = 3.23 USD (Ebay*)
- - 500 x Gold 5mm Rhinestones (Gap Filling) - £1.98 GBP = 3.23 USD (Ebay*)
- - 3 x Bottles Of Sticky Fingers Acrylic Glue - £7.50 GBP = 12.23 USD (Ebay*)
- - 1 x Pack Of Velcro Dots - £2.50 GBP = 4.07USD (B&Q)
- - 1 x Tube Of Evo Stick Hard Plastic - £2.20 GBP = 3.59 USD (Tool Station)
- - 1 x Laptop Cooling Pad - £4.95 GBP = 8.07 USD (Ebay*)
- - 1 x AA Usb Battery Pack - £4.95 GBP = 8.07USD (Ebay*)
- - 1 x 3 Meter Rope - £1.00 GBP = 1.63 USD (Poundland)
- - 2 x Led Multi Color Glowsticks (Optional) - £6.98 GBP = 11.39 USD (Ebay)
Total With Optional Extras - £131.98 = 177.75 USD
Total Without Optional Extras - £107.24 GBP = 217.34 USD
You will also have enough materials to make at least 2 - 3 heads with the above
You will just need to purchase another globe & hard hat
* All ebay & amazon prices include P&P Costs
- - 1 x Drupel Dremel With 50 Pc Tool Set - 45.00 GBP = 73.42 USD (Focus)
- - 1 x Electrical Tape - 1.98 GBP = 3.20 USD (Focus)
- - 1 x Hot Glue Gun - 5.00 GBP = 8.15 USD (Focus)
- - 1 x Sharpie - £1.00 GBP = 1.63 USD (Poundland)
- - 1 x Pencil With Rubber - £0.10 GBP = 0.23 USD (Poundland)
Dont forget any questions please ask away in the comments below!
Step 2: The Globe - Marking Up Your Cut Lines
The first main step in building this deadmau5 head is to mark out where you will be cutting the globe with your dremel.
Please remember this guide has been based around the exact materials i have used for this rhinestone version.
So make sure you adjust your Measurements accordingly.
I found that using a measuring tape from a sewing kit will help you out a great deal here!
(It has a straight edge and its very flexible)
I first located the vertical line down the side of the globe.
I did this by following the small join mark from where the globe had been moulded.
If your globe or sphere has no join markings try this, measure all the way around the fattest part with a measuring tape
Divide that number in half (mark it, or just remember it)
You could do that in more than one area to get other "lines of longitude" if you needed.
I then located the horizontal line by mesuring down the vertical line and then halfing the length.
I marked this with the black marker taping down the Measuring tape and drawing accross it.
This gave the top of the mouth a nice straight line.
I then attached my measuring tape to the point which i just marked on either side, and created a U Shape which met the other side.
This created the bottom of the mouth. Stand back and look to see if its perfect.
(This is the advantage of using a bending measuring tape
When i had completed the mouth i then put the bottom of my office dustbin which had an 8 inch diameter, on the bottom of the globe and drew round it. Make sure the bin is pused up as close as possible to the exsisiting globe hole.
Draw round the hole bin, leaving you with another circle on the bottom of your globe
This marked out my neck entry hole. The neck entry hole was 8 inchs wide
When it is all marked out again stand back and check to make sure that you are happy with the location of the markings.
Now your head is all marked out lets move onto the ears!!
Step 3: Marking Up Your Ears
Here comes one of the hardest parts and time consuming parts. AS you will have to follow this step twice!
Grab some thick card and draw out a mock version of your ears.
Make up a few different versions, lining it up on the globe until you are happy with the layout of the ears.
This i found was the best way to make sure the ears where not too big or not too small and also sat right on the globe.
When you are happy with mock version, markout and cutout your rod slots.
This is best done by placing your rod on the mock cutout, and then drawing around it at angels.
Make sure you add an extra 2mm around each side so that the slots are just a bit bigger then the rod itself
When this is done cutout the rod slots you have just marked on your mock.
You should now be left with a ear template made of card with ear slots all cut out.
Now take your mock ear and write A on one side and B on the other.
(This makes it perfect for when we sandwinch the ears together with the rods in.
Place your mock cutout ontop of your foam board and draw around side A. Take your 2nd sheet and flip your mock version over and mark down side B. Take yours dremel and trim the foam board to size. Now you should have a complete cutout of your final ear.
Take a stanly knife and a ruler and now cut out the rod lines.
Now i stress not to push to hard only cut the paper layer on top.
When you have done that take a screw driver and slowly pickout the rod lines. Line up your rod and see if it fits nice and snug.
Follow this step above another time so you have cut 4 sheets of foam board and have 1 set of ears with all the rod holes cut.
Take your rod and now cut it with your dremel tool, my rods where 6 inchs long. And secure them in with hot glue.
Make sure you leave 1 inch of rod sticking out at the bottom. This is so you can attach your wingnuts!
When your rods are all cut and you have stuck them in, its time to take your fabric glue and spray the ears.
Now sandwinch the two A & B sides together thus creating a ear
Step 4: Cutting & Helmet Installation
There are a few major steps included here so please read carefully
Cutting Globe & Creating The Mouthpiece (From Globe Cutout)
Ok now we have both ears all finished and sanded down we can now cut out the globe we marked out earlier.
Using the dremel with its disc tool carefully start cutting out, following the marker lines.
(Cut inside the markings not on the outside. Its better to have some un even edges which can be sanded down then trying to sandown the bits you need.
When you get round to cutting out the mouth piece, be careful as we want to keep this part!
(Only if you are not going to be using a mesh for the mouth piece)
When you have done all the cutting out go over it all with sand paper to smoothen up the edges.
A smooth finish is so much better then a half done sharp edged job!
Creating The Mouthpiece (From Mesh)
If you want to make the mouth piece from mesh i would advise using a food cover which is made from that metal mesh.
Take your food cover and use the cutout from the plastic globe as a template.
Draw round the cutout onto the mesh with a permanant marker and then cut it out with a dremel disc tool
Once you have cutout the mouth piece tape around the edges so you dont prick or cut your self with the metal edges.
You can now either stretch your nylon over this or your sheer tights.
If your going to use the plastic cutout instead of a mesh i explain how to do this further on in the steps.
Creating The Lip
Time to use the insulation tape
When it has all been sanded down take your insulation tape and now go around the mouth to create the lip.
I did two layers to create a nice thick lip. My lip was around 1 inch thick.
Cutting The Globe's Ear Rod Holes
Now align and mark the holes for the ears to slot into, this part is all down to you.
I marked the center point on the top of the globe and mesaured down 4 inchs and the i mesaured 1 inch out and put my first dot.
I took the ear and placed it up against the globe and marked round the rods against the head.
When the markings are all correct and your happy, drill them out and attach the ears with your washers and wingnuts.
Grab your helemet and place it inside your helmet, and mark how it sits on your head and where you want it positioned. When your happy take your dremel and cut the helmet and the fix inside with hot glue. Then re inforce the stick with the hard plastic.
Then you will have the base of the head complete
Step 5: Felting Ears, Eyes and Mouth Piece
Ok here are the next few steps we must take in our journey to creating the mau5!
Felting the ears - Optional I Stuck My Rhinestone Directly Onto The Ear
Take your felt and mesaure out what you need to cover one side of your ear.
Now take the ear and spray it with the fabric glue on one side, apply the felt slightly stretching it over the ear and then press down to secure. This is where 4 way stretch comes in handy.
Follow the above step again for the otherside and you will have one complete ear covered in fabric.
Creating the eyes
Using your 10cm acrylic half globes place them on a paint clothand spray the inside of the eyes white.
Let them dry then sand of the hanging clip.
When they are dry attach the X's with your black tape to the outside and then you have two complete eyes
Creating The Mouth
Take your cutout from the mouth and then just cover this with either nylon or you can use some sheer tights and stretch it over the cutout. Place the mouth in front of your own eyes and see if you can see out. If you cant stretch it a little more and then fix down
Step 6: Preparing the Globe
Ok here comes the really fun bit! Preparing the globe for its primer and undercoat for the rhinestones.
First take your globe and sand it down until its nice and smooth. If your like me inpatient and want to see what the look if it is going to be put the eyes on the head with tape and the ears and stand back :)
Moving on lol...
Spray Painting & Primer
Note: Make sure you cover up everything, have all the windows open and wear a mask and breather when spray painting.
In a well ventilated area where you can spray setup your station.
I wanted to get a good 360 degree action going with my spray paint so I attached a piece of rope to the helmet through the ear holes.
I then attached a washer to the end and tied a knot. This stopped the rope from threading through.
I then hung the helmet up in the garage so it could be sprayed.
I then applied 2 coats of primer to the helmet and left it to dry over a few days.
I then returned and sprayed it with its final undercoat (Chrome Effect Finish)
I did this because when you have attached the rhinestones you can see the chrome inbetween the gaps of the stones.
I then left all to dry for a further 2 days then i moved on to the next step..
Step 7: Installing Cooling System
It does get a little hot inside these helmets, even if your only wearing them for 30 minutes.
Its always nice to add some sort of cooling down system so heres what i come up with
This step is optional but i found this to be the best way to add a cooling system into the helmet without costing to much.
First take your notepad cooling fan which can be found on ebay.
I saw some with blue leds inbuilt which i thought looked fantastic!
Now un screw all the fans, place them in a safe place for now. they should all be connected as one usb
If you are using the same fans as i me, you will have 3 small fans with there own support brace installed.
Now we need to cut out the fan protecters from whats left of your cooling pad stand, do this with your dremel.
Next! Go and grab some shaving foam or a can of hairspray (The base of these products are the same diameter as the fans of the cooling pad, around 5cm)
Place the shaving foam bottle on your mau5 head (Round the back in this case) and draw out 3 circles, make sure these are perfectly aligned. Also make sure there not too far apart as the wires may not reach where you want the fans to go.
Now take your dremel and cut out the 3 circles. You can throw away the cutouts as these will not be needed.
Take your fans that you removed from the cooling pad and secure these into the helemt from inside using hot glue and hard plastic.
I wanted the fans to blow cold air in so i had to rotate the units, this caused them to be to close to the helmet wall and stopped them from spinning.
To fix this i made up 6 small plastic cubes which i stuck onto the braces of the fans to raise them a little bit of the surface of the helmet when i glued them down.
Now take your AA Usb Powerpack and attach two or three felcro pads to the side of the pack.
Match the same layout with the attaching parts of velcro inside your helmet.
This way you can easily remove the pack to change your batterys!
I found that the AA usb battery pack powered my fans for a good 3 hours. If you wish you can find bigger packs on ebay which are letihum charged, These leithum packs will hold longer fan time but can only be charged up via a plug socket.
I just carried around 10 batterys in my pouch so all i had to do was replace the aa battery to get more power.
10 batterys gave me a 15 hour lifespan for my fans.
And thats it the cooling system installed, again any questions please post a comment!
Step 8: Rhinestone Time!!
This was the final time consuming part.
To rhinestone i applied a strip of acrylic fix glue along the top of the mouth and stuck each one on individually.
I worked my way accross in lines until i got to where the eyes where.
I just made an outline for where the eyes went and just continued around until the whole head was covered.
When the main head was covered i went and covered the ears and then the fan protection plastic too.
When everything was perfect i then sprayed the whole head with plasti kote acrylic clear gloss.
This just made sure that none of the rhinestones would fall off or become loose.
I did 2 coats and left to dry for a further 2 days.
Heres A Few Tips On Rhinestoning
- Make sure the surface your applying to is either smooth or sanded down.
- Use a pencil with a rubber on the end to help you apply if the rhinestones are too small
- Try to keep in lines, with the helmet beoing round you may find your self going of a little bit! Dont worry stick to lines and you will be fine!
- For the ears do the edges first then do your lines from then on
- Use smaller sized stones to fill in gaps, i would reccomend 3 - 4mm stones too!
Step 9: Optional - Lightup Eyes
Note - I have used pictures from other heads i have made to show you the lighting system
I thought i would add this step in as people have messaged me asking if i have built a helmet with light up eyes and the answer is yes!
If you are going to follow this step add this in just after Step 4
Now, take your globe and grab your marker again
You will need to draw round your eyes and mark where you want the eyes to be on the globe with a marker
Find the center of the circle you have just drawn on and place a large dot.
When you have marked the center and your happy with it being in the middle.
Using a drill, drill right through the helmet on the marked center point until you drill though the helmet inside
Make sure the hole you drill is big enough to stick the led unit from the glowsticks inside.
You should now have two holes in the center of where you marked the eyes going right through the globe and the helmet.
Take your led glow sticks and pull the plastic tube of and the push the unit up inside the globe until the leds poke though the center hole. You can remove the battery screw cap too and just put tape over the end if you wish.
Now Rotate the glowstick unit round inside the helmet until the power button is facing down then hot glue into position.
This lets you slide you hand up inside the helmet to push the leds on, or to change the modes (Multi Clicking)
You have now installed your eye light system without any wiring or battery packs being added.
See photos and hover over the image parts to see where and what they are.
Step 10: Now Have Fun!
Now that you have finished your head you can go out and party!
Or even make other styles, heres a few others i made!