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In this Instructable I am going to show you how I built my Deadpool Knife "Block".

Usually in my Instructables, I just walk you through the process to repeat what I have made. This Instructable is a bit different. I figured that by not just only sharing the final stl file, but also the process I used to design it and what I learned, this Instructable could benefit others (and to be honest myself by getting feedback on how to improve).

I recently cleaned out my kitchen drawer and realized that I have some really nice knives that deserve to be placed in a knife block.

So while I was searching for one I liked I read an Asterix comic and the idea for a "Ceasar Knife Block" was born. The Adventures of Asterix is a French comic series which you should definitely check out, should you not know it. So I googled to see whether I could buy one anywhere and found this picture. Sadly it was obvious that it was just a photoshopped image, so I decided to build one myself. The only problem was that I have absolutely no modelling skills.

Once I was nearly done designing the knife block I watched the Deadpool movie and decided to rather go with a Deadpool one instead.

All the programs I used are freeware so anybody should be able to replicate what I have done.

Step 1: Trying Out Autodesk Recap 360

I had an around 14 cm high figure of Caesar, which I wanted digitise. So I decided to try out Autodesk Recap 360.

It's a free online software and to be quite honest due to the small size of the figure I wasn't expecting too much. Though since I have seen really some nice results with bigger objects I decided to give it a shot.

You can see my first and second attempt in the pictures. I set my camera up on a tripod and placed the figure on a turn table. For the first attempt I used a white backdrop (just a white blanket) and took 50 pictures (the maximum you are allowed to use in the free version). As you can see, while I was already getting quite a nice model, the program had a few problems to distinguish between the background and the figure.

So for my second attempt I decided to use a black backdrop (just a black blanket). I took 36 pictures. Since I was only interested in the head and not the body I focused on that area. I uploaded the pictures once again and was really surprised how good the result was.

As you can see in the third picture, the head still needed some improvements. I used Sculptris to do so and found it really easy to use, even though I had no experience.

Simply import the *.obj mesh that you got from Autodesk Recap 360 and start playing around with it. If it is asking you whether you would like to "go to paint", simply state "No"

Here is a good video to get you started.

I used Autodesk Meshmixer to cut the head off the body. You can also use it to improve the head, but I found Sculptris easier to use.

Step 2: "Designing" the Body

While I was trying to figure out how to design the body of the bust I stumbled over an awesome project: Scan The World

Here is what they say about themselves:

Scan The World is an initiative that is creating a digital archive of
sculptures, landmarks and monuments from around the world using 3D Scanning and Printing technology. We are calling on the public to scan sculptures near them and submit them to us, read more about the project on the Scan The World page!

You should definitely check them out, the quality of the scans is amazing.

So I looked for a roman bust I could use and found this one of Marcus Aurelius at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York.

Once again I used Autodesk Meshmixer to cut the head off.

Next we will have to add the head to the body. I originally wanted to use thinkercad to do so, but sadly there is a limit of 25 MB for importing files. So I tried to use MeshLab. I managed to connect the meshes after using multiple filters, but when I wanted to reproduce what I had done for this Instructable, I couldn't (pathetic I know, but a month had past and I just couldn't remember what I had done, there are internal faces I just couldn't remove properly the second time around). Then I tried to use FreeCAD, but even though it is quite interesting and has a lot of features, I could not manage to connect the meshes. Next I tried to use netfabb basic, but uniting meshes is sadly a "pro feature" you will have to pay for (also there is only a 32 bit version for windows). At this point as you may imagine I was really frustrated.

So I decided to use a program I had all along: Meshmixer

And I was surprised how easy it was to unite the two meshes. Simply import them, scale them (here is a good instructable on how to do so) and move them around so that they fit.

Then select both meshes by holding the ctrl key, click on "Edit" and "Boolean Union" and you are done.

After uniting the two meshes I went back to Sculptris to smooth the transition.

I've uploaded the design to this step, should you want to use it.

Step 3: Going With Deadpool Instead

As you can see in step 3 I was nearly done with designing the Caesar bust, when I decided that I would rather like to go with Deadpool.

Deadpool is famous for shooting himself in the head to save himself from boredom, so I figured that he would be perfect for the knife block.

So I started over from scratch. Before once again using a figure, I decided to search the web for a 3D design I liked.

Here are a few I found:

I decided to go with the last one, but pick which ever one you like.

Step 4: Preparing the Head (wow That Sounds Weird)

First I removed the belts. I found that the best way to do so is in MeshLab. Click on "Select Connected Components in a region", select the belts and hit "delete".

As you can see in the first picture, the original mesh is quite rough. This can easily be corrected in Sculptris. Simply open the mesh and click "SUBDIVIDE ALL".

I did all the other editing (like closing the eyes, removing the weird bump from the nose and some more smoothing) in Meshmixer. Here are some great tutorials to get you started.

I've uploaded my final version, should you want to use it.

Step 5: Choosing the Knives

These are the knives I used:

Use any 3D modeling tool you like to design the knife blades (e.g. tinkercad). Make them slightly wider and longer, in order for the knife to fit later on. As you can see in the next step, I used a fairly simplified version of the blades. In most cases a rectangular box should be enough.

You can also use Meshmixer to design a rectangular box, simply click on "Meshmix", make sure "Primitives" is selected, click on the cube and pull it into the designing window, as shown in the second picture. Deselect "Uniform Scaling" and simply put the measurements under "Size X", "Size Y" and "Size Z".

Step 6: Removing the Knives

Meshmixer is great tool to move the knives to the correct position and to cut the mesh. Use "Edit" and "Transform" to place the knives. You can hide the head by clicking on the small eye in the Object Browser. Make sure that the knives don't overlap.

Sadly you can't remove the knives all at once in Meshmixer. Select the head and a knife (by holding the shift key) and select "Boolean Difference". Deselect "Preserve Group Borders" and "Auto-Reduce Result" and click accept.

Repeat the process with all the knives.

Step 7: Making It Fit the Print Bed

My 3D printer, a Replicator 2 (thanks a lot to instructables!), is not big enough to print the whole head in one go. So I had to slice it into multiple parts. Here is a very nice and detailed explanation on how to do this.

You will have to click on "Edit", "Plane Cut" and select "Slice keep both". Once you hit accept you won't see a difference. Click on "Separate Shells" to see both parts in the object browser.

I decided to hollow the face out (underneath the first cut in order to need less support structures), to make cleaning easier and to cut down print time. In order to do so I constructed a cylinder in Meshmixer, scaled and positioned it and cut it from the figure the same way I did with the knives.

Step 8: Time to Print and Paint

I tried printing the first part, but couldn't get it to work right. Either the piece was impossible to remove from the raft or (when I printed without a raft) it started to warp. So I decided to invest into a hot plate and while I was at it, I also got a new full metal z-axis (I got them here and here).

I made videos on how I installed the hot plate and the new axis, should you be interested.

Thanks to the upgrade I was able to print the pieces without any problems.I suggest to print the middle part upside down. This way you won't need any support structures.

The settings I used were (I've uploaded the profile to this step):

Printer Brand: MakerBot
Printer: MakerBot Replicator 2
Rafts: No
Supports: No
Infill: 10%
Layer Height: 0.25

The print took about 40 hours.

Afterwards I glued the pieces together. I noticed, that using acetone and rubbing the head down with a towel saved me quite a lot of sanding later on. I highly suggest to spend some time on sanding and priming (use a "Filler Primer"), since it will improve the smoothness of your final product quite a lot.

Now all that is left to do is to paint the head. Congratulations, you are done.

Step 9: UPDATE

UPDATE:

After about a two weeks I realized that some imperfection were starting to show up. I didn’t pay much attention to them until after a month cracks started to form where I had glued the parts together. After spending hours priming and sanding I couldn’t believe my eyes.

I used "Universal Primer Filler" from Spraila which seems to have different material properties than the PLA and so due to the temperature changes in my kitchen it started to shrink.

Since I had recently bought XTC-3D I decided to give it a try. It’s a resin specially developed for coating 3D prints. I used a thin layer, which didn’t cover the cracks, so I decided to use a thicker layer. This was a very stupid decision, due to the low viscosity drips started to form and I had to spend a very long time sanding the head to get rid of them. As you can see in the second picture I accidentally sanded through the XTC-3D in some places. So I filled the cracks with Autobody filler, used a thin layer of red primer (Dragon Red by Army painter) and went with two thin layers of XTC-3D. After carefully sanding the head I primed it again and painted it.

So far it still looks perfect, I will keep you posted.

Check out this link should you want to see a video of it in action.

<p>If this is ever designed and sold for mass production, as Fry would say &quot; shut up and take my money!&quot; This is awesome! I think eve Francis would want one! </p>
<p>Britliv, EXCELLENT!!! I love Deadpool. I hope you can register your design and possibly have it made for sale. You did a wonderful job on it. There is nothing out there like this. I would get in touch with a lawyer who deals in licensing brands. </p><p>&quot; I wanna shoop baby shoop&quot;</p><br><br><br><br><br><br>p.p1 {margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; font: 12.0px Helvetica}
<p>I love the Idea, I think its spot on since deadpool go stabbed in the head in the movie. I read all the rabble about dead pool. sorry about that some people seam to get off track of the Ible and hung up on the superficial. I don't own a printer so i cant make this but it would definitely sit on my counter.</p>
<p>Nice tutorial! Cool idea!<br>But Deadpool..? :)<br>I have problems to accept the outlandish popularity of Deadpool.<br>I am comicfan aswell as comic artist myself for more than 30 years. <br>I never stumbled over/ heard/ read of Deadpool before 2016 when the movies advertisement started... </p><p>So i deem its popularity a made-up one by hollywood. </p><p>And i like to add, we should have a caesar bust for storing Knives too... </p><p>Because the real Julius Caesar, was killed by real knives. </p>
<p>YvoW. Nice comment. Dead pool wasn't a main character. he became one because of the video games and then movie. I'm a big Marvel fan (having worked there), but I refuse to go see this movie. Deadpool is just too annoying and his kids are at a kindergarten level</p>
<p>you are missing out! im not a fan of most marvel movies but I am in LOVE with Deadpool! :) </p>
<p>:) </p>
<p>Sorry to be the one to inform you but, Deadpool first showed up on the Marvel scene in 1991 XForce comics</p>
<p>never heard about deadpool before 2016 and being a comic artist?!?!?!?must be a joke</p>
<p>drawing comics and reading them are two different things. he didn't say he was a comic book historian...</p>
I assume he's taking the piss...or lives on mars
SERIOUSLY you claim to be a comic artist and you've never heard of deadpool he's a comic cult icon because of his breaking of the forth wall- How have you missed this?
<p>drawing comics and reading them are two different things. he didn't say he was a comic book historian...</p>
<p>I've been a Deadpool fan for years now. Probably 10 or so. His appearances in Marvel: Ultimate Alliance, Marvel vs. Capcom 3 and his own game a few years ago. Plus this image from the 2014 Comicon (I'd show 2015 as there were a lot more but that could be because of the trailers for the movie coming out.) speak differently. But the main one is that this movie wasn't going to be made until the 3d mock up trailer leaked and got a ton of attention from fans.</p>
<p>How he got killed was why I had chosen in the first place. I've been a Deadpool fan for about 3 or 4 years now. </p>
The fan base was growing exponentially before the movie. He was a lesser known character up until about 3 years ago. His popularity exploded, giving us the resulting Deadpool movie.<br><br>I consider myself a pretty avid comic book reader myself, but ya gotta give credit where it's due. <br><br>Ever since the xmen origins movie botched Deadpool, the hardcore fans have made it abundantly clear that screwing up characters won't be tolerated anymore. He's why the Deadpool movie prides itself on &quot;being done right&quot;.
I want this so bad but could never make it myself. Can I pay someone to do it for me please?? :)
<p>Hi thanks again for the great idea of<br>the Deadpool Knifeblock.</p><p>I Printed it in four<br>parts on the<br>Flashforge with a heated<br>bed all the Parts started to<br>come off on one site after<br>e view layers.</p><p>I got my Printer abut a month ago<br>so im not so experienced jet.</p><p>In the end<br>the parts had some gaps.</p><p>I filled it but<br>after a wile i got board whit sanding.</p><p>I fond this<br>polyester fabric in a Shop it was perfect<br>and i took some<br>black leather for the<br>eyes.</p><p>This is how it looks<br>now.</p>
<p>How much will you charge to make me one...please i dont know anyone with a 3d printer and I though this was a buyable item but its not...My e-mail is Sailor.nanasi@gmail.com Im on facebook, etsy, and gmail please get back to me asap im wanting to buy 2 of them</p>
<p>Thanks a lot for posting the picture. It turned out amazing! The fabric is perfect!</p>
Amazing work!
<p>Sorry if this is already mentioned somewhere, but what size nozzle and filament did you use? This is a really great project!</p>
<p>I am really sorry, I somehow missed your comment. I used a 0.4 mm nozzle and PLA. Thanks a lot for the compliment!</p>
<p>What would you charge to make one of these for me? My son would love one sitting on his counter.</p>
<p>I am really sorry, I am not going to sell it, because I don't want to run in any legal trouble. </p>
<p>You should lock down rights on the design and/or concept so that if Marvel/Disney wants to produce it, they have to $ettle with you.</p><p>Their character:Your creativity.</p>
<p>No disrespect intended to your comment, but I am sure all likeness is already covered. He's smart he knows they would sue the pants off him if he collected even one penny from their property (Image Likeness) and would sue him for copyright infringment. He probably could not even afford to pay them for rights to sell that anyways and they would just make their own if they saw a market for it.</p>
<p>read my comment again: His d-e-s-i-g-n. Not the character itself, obviously.</p>
<p>Three things; It's <em>her</em> design (not &quot;his&quot;); the general concept of &quot;store your knives in a head&quot; has been done <a>before</a>; just because BrittLiv designed it, that wouldn't stop Hollywood copyright lawyers coming after her, and they have deeper pockets than us normal folk.</p>
<p>Hi Mark, thanks a lot. I have stopped trying to correct people who just assume I am a guy.<br></p><p>Nowadays<br> people seem to be doing stuff without thinking about the consequences <br>and copyright doesn&rsquo;t seem to matter anymore. Like for example 9gag <br>taking my picture and placing their own water mark on it without giving <br>me any credit (<a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BEKxIeojJ8_/">https://www.instagram.com/p/BEKxIeojJ8_/</a>).</p><p>I have seen people printing the Deadpool Knife Block for profit, but to me the risk is just too high. </p>
<p>Nice thought, but doesn't work that way. ;)</p>
<p>read my comment again: His d-e-s-i-g-n. Not the character itself, obviously.</p>
I undertand. Thanks for getting back to me.
<p>I just noticed there is a link next to the .stl file for having it printed through 3D hubs. I'm sure they could print it and you or your son could finish it.</p>
<p>It's absolutely brilliant! :) </p>
<p>Can you gift me one? I am not looking to buy one. I will however, donate some cash for your time. It'd be for a gift for someone who has serious health issues and his birthday is coming up. He's a huge Deadpool fan, and I know he would appreciate this, esp since it's not out there for sale! </p>
<p>Hi, I am really sorry, but I have only one printer and the print takes about 40 hours. So I really don't have the resources to go into production (Nor do I want, since I don't want to run in any legal trouble). </p>
<p>how fast did you set print speeds to? i am using defaults and keep running into issues...</p>
<p>Hi, I am sorry to hear that. I used the defaults as well. You can see my printer settings attached to step 8</p>
<p>hi I managed to get my hands on a 3D printer could you send me the file of this product you created, I know you won't make it for me, please don't deny me this</p>
<p>The files are part of the instructable. I have uploaded *.stl and *.obj files to the steps</p>
<p>Hi, I am sorry, I wish I could help you. Sadly I don't have the resources nor enough knowledge of licensing to go into production.</p>
<p>This is seriously the GREATEST thing I've seen all day. Sadly, I don't have access to a 3D printer. Still, I want one something fierce. Great job!</p>
<p>This is awesome :) No words to describe how awesome you are :)</p>
<p>*blush*. Thank you so much! I always love seeing your projects.</p>
<p>That's so kind of you :). Keep rocking girl :)</p>
That is so cool, good job!
<p>could you post the .STLs? </p>
<p>Are the *.obj files not working?</p>
What was the overall volume of your final design?<br><br>You've done a fantastic job. I'd like to follow your footsteps, but I shouldn't spend the money on a 3d printer. I'm going to try to go through my university's printer, however they still charge by the material. <br><br>I think I'll contribute to your design by adding in some eyebrow communication. We shall see!<br><br>Your overall volume would be a very helpful boost out of my feasibility phase.

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Bio: Hi, my name is Britt Michelsen, I'm a Chemical Engineer especially interested in Computational Fluid Dynamics. To balance all the theoretical work I like ... More »
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