Dell W5001C 50" plasma fix by mr12volt
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Step 6: Conclusion

w5001c_plasmatv.jpg
Now install the board back onto the TV, and connect only the smaller connectors to test the board. Plug in the power to the TV and turn it on with the remote. Probe the Va testpoint with a multimeter to see if it is between 55 and 75 volts. If so, the repair worked! Turn off the TV, unplug it, and install the other connectors to the power supply board. Install the backing onto the TV and you're done. Congratulations! Your roommates now think you're a genius.
 
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Lez1pyt says: May 28, 2009. 10:39 AM
How can an ordinary lay person do this or can they do this It seems very difficult
mr12volt (author) says: May 28, 2009. 1:58 PM
Lez1pyt, You are correct, this instructable IS written at a fairly high level and is mostly intended for an audience with some electronics and soldering experience. However, I tried to explain in step 1 that this is simply a journal of my own experience fixing a plasma TV and should certainly not be attempted by everyone. The real value in the instructable is the information about the symptoms and diagnosis of one particular failure mechanism. While most people do not have the experience necessary to diagnose the problem, many will know somebody who has some mechanical ability and soldering skills. My hope is that, with the information I have given, the owners of these TVs can seek out a friend with the modest experience necessary to perform the fix. The hard part is not de-soldering the defective component. It's knowing which component is defective.
lnolan1 says: Mar 13, 2011. 9:44 PM
Mr12volt

You worked on a dell 50inch I have a dell 42 inch with much of the same symptoms.
For two weeks the TV would work good all day long, turn off, turn on, good picture
But my wife would wake me up in the morning with ( The TV won't turn on) I'd get up and mess with it. then unplug it, and plug it in. and it would them turn on and work all day alright. Then one day no more TV, The lights were on but the Walton's won't home. I'm not as good as you in electronics. But I do solder and de-solder with what I have, I diagnosis with guess work, sometimes I get it right, sometimes no. there are many similarities with the 50 and the 42 But the the power board maybe a little different from what I can see by your pic's Do you thank that the chip you replaced cloud be the same? if there is an U501 in the 42 would it be the same? do the symptoms sound the same to you? Give me a little help if you would.
Thanks
Lyn
mr12volt (author) says: Mar 14, 2011. 8:30 AM
Lyn,
Your television's symptoms sound similar so this could very well be the same problem. It's possible that the power supply will have the same reference designators for it's components so look for U501 first. If nothing matches, look at all the DIP parts to see if there is one with 8 pins that reads "KA3883". There won't be too many DIP parts. Use a flashlight and magnifying glass if the printing on the chips is hard to read. If you find a match and are up to the challenge, I say go for it.
lnolan1 says: Mar 14, 2011. 4:44 PM
Thank you much Mr12volt
After reading your reply, I removed the back for the first time. I have just one more question before entering the Lions Den. My power board is the same shape as yours but thats where similarity ends. The components are so many you can't even see the board. and the arrangement of these Components defer from the 50 inch.
in all ways. except for one! There is only one 8 pin IC on the entire board It is marked as IC8003 The chip it self has K436 TOP223PN 30309C This chip is in the Exact spot as your KA3883 And this is a Samsung board.

So My Question is! (Do you think? Could it be?) Await your reply

Thanks
Lyn
mr12volt (author) says: Mar 14, 2011. 7:11 PM
The TOP223PN is totally different from the KA3883.
http://www.powerint.com/sites/default/files/product-docs/top221-227.pdf
It is NOT interchangable. Since the power supply board is so different, this isn't likely to be the same problem. That doesn't mean you should give up though! If you know how to use a multimeter, probe the output voltages on the power supply when the TV is acting up and try to find one that is out of spec. My TV's power supply listed all the output voltages and the acceptable range for those voltages on the silkscreen near the bottom edge of the circuit board. Be careful when the TV is turned on though, there are some *shocking* voltages inside! The way I did it was to set up the multimeter probes with the TV turned off and then I turned the TV on with the remote, read the multimeter, then turned the TV off and moved the probe to the next voltage I wanted to read. This way you don't touch anything when power is applied.
xerxesx20 says: Jul 19, 2011. 3:09 PM
Great idea! Move probes on a dead board, NOT a live one. Might use that trick myself, i've got a telly power PCB problem myself. 8-D
Beadboy444 says: Mar 28, 2011. 4:47 AM
Mr12volt,
I have a w5001c that stopped working. I found a California company that repaires power supply boards. I was able to remove it, but they also want the YSUS board and the buffers. They stated it was the board to the left, so I was able to remove the lower panel to get at the screws but it it attached by a white microfilm(lack of a better word). Can I just pull that out and were are the buffers?
pantalone says: Aug 22, 2010. 7:09 AM
Nice instructable. Your pictures are great (lighting and focus).
sheya says: Aug 21, 2009. 11:54 AM
mr12volt, Thank you so much for the time you spent putting this instructable together. Yesterday I found a Dell W5001C curbed for the trash. I got it home in one piece (not so easy). The LED lights, and the TV clicks when it is turned on, but the screen doesn't come on. I measured the power supply, and VSC and VSET are measuring in the millivolts. Va is 60.57, Vs is 8.5 volts, the 12 volt supply is fine, and the 5volt supply is 3 volts. I don't have a hot air gun or isolation transformer to test the circuit as you did, so I am wondering if you happen to have discovered which parts I could replace in the VSC/VSET circuit in the hopes of replacing the defective parts. I have checked the fuses, and they are all good, but beyond that, I am not sure that I have the equipment to test the board. I realize that I could be hunting in vain, replacing parts in the hopes I find the correct one. My hope is that you have some suggestions as to what I should replace first. Thank you for your time, I appreciate your sharing your experience and knowledge. Aaron.
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