Introduction: Delta Bot: DIY 3D Printer

Build the efficient and reliable all metal structure 3D Printer with top notch parts. Improved significantly with new concepts for printers. Great quality and up to 140 mm/s print speed (very fast). Built with heated bed, hybrid bowden suspended extruder, and counterweight (tested printing 21 hours straight with no motors hot). Does not require many tools to be created. If tuned well it can last forever printing. Optional smart controller for computerless printing. Print any kind of thermoplastic.

Cost: ~$500

Build Area: 230mm (9 in) diameter, 230mm height (extend towers for higher if needed)

Recommend some experience with 3D printers.

Design and built by a high school student with a significant amount of 3D Printer experience, would love to hear suggestions or improvements below.

Currently working on swapping carriages for other uses(ceramic, dremel, etc).

Step 1: Gather Materials/Tools

Parts can be found at these stores, but there may be cheaper options available

http://openbuildspartstore.com/

  • V-Slot™ Linear Rail 1500mm - 4x
  • Aluminum Spacers 1/4 in - 8x
  • Mini V Wheel Plate™ - 3x
  • Eccentric Spacers 1/4 in - 6x
  • Low Profile Screws M5 25mm - 12x
  • Delrin Mini V Wheel kit -12x
  • Mini V Wheel Precision Shim - 24x

http://www.robotdigg.com/

  • NEMA17 Stepper Motor 40mm Long, 1.2A - 4x
  • Idler Pulley Wheel for 6mm Belt 5mm bore - 3x
  • Toothed clamp for open ended belt - 3x
  • Timing Belt Tensioner Spring - 3x
  • A4988 stepper driver - 4x
  • 12V 4020 Turbine Fan - 1x
  • RAMPS LCD2004 with SD Socket - 1x - optional
  • Limit Switch with Roller - 4x
  • Arduino Mega 2560 R3 - 1x
  • Open Ended 6mm Width GT2 Belt - 5x
  • Ramps 1.4 Board - 1x
  • UM GT2 Pulley 20 Tooth 5mm Bore - 3x
  • Post Assembly T Nuts for 2020 M3 - 1x 100pc
  • Post Assembly T Nuts for 2020 M5 - 3x 1pc

Any online metal store

  • 0.090" Aluminum Sheet - 12" x 24"

http://e3d-online.com/

  • E3D V6 bowden kit 1x use lite version if on budget
  • Groove Mount bowden Adaptor 1x

Amazon

  • 500g calibration weight
  • Signswise MK3 Reprap aluminum Round Heatbed 3D Printer Delta
  • 12V 30A DC LED power supply
  • 25mm M3 Stand-offs Male-Female
  • Epoxy for metal, plastic
  • Traxxas 5347 Rod Ends with Hollow Balls Large Revo
  • can buy anywhere: aluminum/carbon tube 4mm inside diameter 6 x ~350mm
  • Power cord length based on your preference only male sides needed
  • Thermistor 10K Probe Sensor (for heated bed)

Bolts

  • Metric socket M3 8mm - 110x
  • Metric socket M3 10mm - 10x
  • Metric socket M3 12mm -10x
  • Metric socket M3 15mm - 6x
  • Metric socket M3 20mm - 6x
  • Metric socket M3 25mm - 6x
  • Nylon spacer #6 1/4 in - 20x
  • Nylon spacer 1/4 in hole 1/2 in long - 3x
  • M3 hex nuts - 50x
  • Metric socket M5 25mm - 3x
  • M3 washers - 10x
  • M5 socket screw 25mm 3x
  • M5 washers(fender type best) - 3x
  • M5 Locknuts - 10x
  • 6/32 eye bolt - 1x
  • M4 Screw 10mm 4x
  • M4 Set screw any above 20mm - 6x
  • M3 Screw 10mm or 15mm

Other parts

Recommended Tools

Step 2: Create Parts for Assembly

Cut the aluminum extrusions to specified lengths:

Make sure the 4 extrusions are spread evenly with these lengths

  • 6x 372mm
  • 3x 234.5mm
  • 3x 750mm (~230mm print height)

Use the template to create aluminum parts:

If you print with no boarders the template can be used as exact measurements where you can cut and glue stick the template on the aluminum plate and work with that. I used GIMP to print without boarders. You should make sets of 3 for every part except for the triangle and hexagon which only 1. Use template to create the parts.

The template is called All.png. It can be found in link below.

Then use the metal bender to bend to specified degrees.

Drill a 3/8 in hole in the middle of the aluminum triangle (10mm)

Cut the 1/4in plywood to size:

you should be able to draw a equallateral triangle from your heated bed using the straight edges, and cut it out. Then cut the corners out a decent amount ~60mm (could be flush with extrusions(harder) or not). Then put the heat bed onto the triangle plywood and mark the screw holes and drill them. Then drill a hole of size >=1/4in in the center of the triangle (doesn't matter where exactly, its where heated bed wires go)

  • Mark and drill the holes for attachment of power supply and RAMPS 1.4 on the center
  • 4mm holes for power supply and 3mm for RAMPS

Creating Rods

  1. Cut the carbon rods in to 6 x 350mm
  2. screw the M4 set screws into the traxxas rod ends
  3. use 2 extrusions or blocks to prop the rods when they glue
    • because you want both sides of the rod to be symmetrical
  4. prepare epoxy
  5. glue the set screws into the rods (push all the way in)
  6. adjust 2 sides of rod to be symmetrical using blocks/extrusions
  7. snap the metal balls into ball joints
  8. Do this for all six

Solder parts:

  • Endstops
    • cut 3 1.3m long bell wires
    • solder the 2 pin connectors onto it
    • and solder other side to the two outer endstop connections
    • heat shrink tubing when neccesary
  • Heat bed
    • Use 2 0.5m 8awg wires
    • solder them on to heat bed with instructions of the heat bed

Make the 500g counter balance

  • Drill and tap the bottom hole on the weight
  • screw the wing nut into the tapped hole

Print all the 3D printed parts (if you don't have 3D printer upload and get them here http://www.shapeways.com/create?li=nav or other places)

  • Clamp.STL 1x
  • Clamp2.STL 1x
  • Mini V plate attachment.STL 3x *with support*
  • Mount.STL 1x
  • Nozzle_Carriage_Attachment_New.STL 3x
  • Roller sleeve.STL 2x
  • Sensor_Mount.STL 1x
  • Weight_attachment.STL 1x
  • Wire guide.STL 1x *with support*
  • wire distributer.STL 1x *with support*
  • E pieces 1x

Template and STL Files found at

https://github.com/DeltaBot3D

Click Download ZIP in bottom right corner

Step 3: Assembly of Base Frame

    1. Put a 8mm M3 screw in all of the drilled holes of the aluminum plate
    2. screw the T-nuts only ~3 revolutions so it doesn't fall off
    3. Slide the parts together inside the V-slot aluminum extrusion as shown in the diagram (helps if you place on a hard surface)
    4. Do not tighten the screws
    5. Use 2 T Nuts for the top of each medium length extrusion for the heated bed
    6. screw in both power supply and RAMPS 1.4 onto plywood
    7. Then lay plywood and heatbed on frame
    8. slide the wires of heatbed into center hole in plywood
    9. put 1/4 in spacers in between plywood and heated bed of every hole
    10. align the T nuts where the 6 holes are
    11. screw 20mm screws into the 6 T Nuts and tighten
    12. then tighten all other screws
    13. Try to maintain an equilateral triangle and keep the towers vertical

    Step 4: Assemble the Top Frame Piece

    1. Take the 3 60 degree bent pieces, put a 8mm screw in each hole.
    2. Screw T-nuts on each, only 3 rotations so it doesn't fall off
    3. slide the 3 shortest extrusions in as shown
    4. Put the Assembled Base Frame over this Top Frame to align the edges of the Top Frame extrusions to the edges of the tower extrusions (the longest ones)
    5. Now take off base frame and tighten the screws
    6. If you could, fillet the top edge of the end of each triangle side so the 90 degree bend plates can be flush with the extrusions
    7. using the 90 degree bend pieces with 2 holes put 8mm screws and T-nuts into the extrusion at each end of the triangle (Use assembled pictures at the top of instructable as reference) and tighten.
    8. Now attach the triangle aluminum plate onto the center of the assembly with 8mm screws and T-nuts. Then tighten everything down.

    Step 5: Assemble the Carriage

    Click on pictures for more detail high res pictures.

    Screws are M3 hex when not specified.

    1. use the center hexagon aluminum and 3 Nozzle_Carriage_Attachment_New pieces and screw them together with 8mm screws and nuts
    2. Then screw the rods in as shown in the picture with 25mm screws, but mine was upside down so I could get more height, but if you do that you'll have to cut the aluminum piece more. (The plastic print should be on top)
    3. Assemble E3D using instructions (http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_Assembly)
    4. Put the E3D through the center large hole in the aluminum plate, then use the E3D mount pieces to clamp the E3D with 30mm screws and nuts.
    5. skip to step 7 if not using a servo or induction sensor to level bed
    6. use Sensor_Mount piece, 2 25mm standoffs, and 2 nuts to secure them together using the male side of standoff
    7. use 3 15mm screw and 1 nut to sandwich E3D Mount and Sensor_Mount as shown

    Step 6: Assemble the Extruder

    1. Take a stepper motor and the E_base printed part and 2 8mm screws and secure the part down on stepper motor
    2. Then use the ball bearing (not from V roller kit, the ones with 3mm hole) screw in the E_Tightener with 10mm screw and nut plus 3mm washers between the bearing and screw
    3. Attach the E_Tightener to the E_base by 15 or 20mm screw, it should tighten all the way and still move
    4. use a spring, washer, and nut to add to the tightener as shown
    5. and then use 10mm screws and nuts to clamp the Clamp and Clamp2 pieces together on the extruder
    6. Then use a big ziptie(or small) and attach the bowden attachment on the extruder

    Step 7: Assemble the Sliders

    The mini V Gantry Plate is based on this OpenBuilds assembly.

    Follow this to assemble the slider for the 3D printer

    Then attach the large 3D print that goes on these sliders with M5 screws

    Assemble following the picture with 20mm screws on rods and keep the belt connector loose

    keep the 3 slides on the extrusion

    Step 8: Attach Top Assembly

    Assemble using the picture. All screws tighten into the extrusion with T-nuts and are 8mm, except for the endstop which is 10mm.

    • The 25mm standoff should have male sides screw into stepper (not too tight, brass breaks easily, learned it the hard way)
    • The pulley on stepper can face either way, it just depends on where the belt goes best
    • Bottom idler pulley should be screwed with the M5 25mm screw with 1/2in spacer and M5 washer with T-nut on the inside(as shown in picture).

    You could organize the wiring inside the extrusions.

    Step 9: Counter Weight Assembly

    Use the Weight_attachment part and screw an 8mm screw through it and onto the extrusion with a T-nut.

    • Put the printed sleeve onto the bearing from ebay 2x
    • slide it into the 2 printed parts for counter weight
    • depending on your printer put 2 or 1 washers on each side of the bearing
    • Attach with 15mm screws
    • Then attach onto printer with pictures shown

    Step 10: Finish Carrige (Thermistor, Bowden Tube, and Probe)

    1. Tie a piece of string through the bearing sleeve pulleys and onto the counter weight and the extruder
    2. Cut the bowden tube to ~150 mm
    3. Push the bowden tube into both carriage and extruder firmly

    Auto leveling probe:

    • If using induction probe, simply screw into the hole
    • If using servo:
      • use a 50mm piece of material and glue onto the endstop and servo horn
      • glue the servo onto the mount

    Thermistor:

    The thermistor should be placed on either side of the heated bed. It can be attached using heat resistant tape. Thermal compound is optional.

    Step 11: Wire Electronics

    Wire RAMPS 1.4 board using the diagrams from the first picture.

    Connect these using second picture:

    • X endstop to red
    • Y endstop to blue
    • Z endstop to brown
    • Z Probe to yellow
    • Servo to green

    Wire the power supply as shown in the picture

    Note: Making good wiring connections and an electronics case is important for reliability.

    Step 12: Repetier Firmware

    You can use their tool to configure your printer and download firmware http://www.repetier.com/firmware/v092/

    The pictures on git hub(inside the files folder you downloaded) shows my settings on the configuration, yours might be different.

    There's a lot of tutorials and forums online if you get stuck.

    Great tutorial for Z-probing: http://www.repetier.com/documentation/repetier-fir...

    And that's it! Congratulations on your new printer, I hope you enjoy.

    Comments

    author
    elafleur made it! (author)2017-06-22

    I have one question for the owner of this or anyone who may be able to answer... Why did you decide to just hang the feeder above the extruder and not go with the bowden extrusion method with it mounted on the side or top and running through a tube to the extruder?

    author
    MrDart made it! (author)2017-05-07

    Hi! I made a printer with your instructable and it is finally moving and working. Thank you for it.

    I have just one issue left - cant make the servo to work, even move. you have shown on the picture that it should be connected to pin 4. But in configuration file it is pin 11. with repetier and command M340 it doesnt move at all. LCD controler servo command does nothing too. I tried all combinations but it seems I´m missing something.. Thanks!

    author
    ram aravind made it! (author)2017-03-01

    Is there any calculations for finding the length of connecting rod between effector and slider

    author
    freakqnc made it! (author)2016-12-30

    Great Instructable, Thanks for sharing it Danny Lu!
    Total noob here. Would it be possible to scale the print volume to 2x or 4x as much? Looking to make one that can print strong replacement motorcycle plastics. Thanks in advance :)

    author
    JohnsJ made it! (author)2016-04-04

    how many stepper motor are used in this printer ? 4 or 5

    author
    SilverEye2000 made it! (author)SilverEye20002016-11-23

    4 (stood in the parts list)

    author
    Sniper114179 made it! (author)2016-07-24

    Could you post your PID values for your heated bed?

    I noticed that with a 12v supply, the heated bed only uses the heating element in half of the bed. This means that one side of the bed is slightly hotter than the thermistor reads and the other side is significantly cooler.
    By connecting to the 24v connections on the heated bed the entire bed is heated evenly, but has much less power and takes exceptionally longer to heat up. Do you think this is something that should be done or has using 12v connections directly heating half the bed works fine for your printing?

    author
    MrTinkerer made it! (author)2016-03-18

    Is there an instructable or other step by step resource on how to print a "Hello world" once the Delta 3D printer is built? I've been looking but cannot find anything.

    To give you context on my noobness, i built similar printer using parts from OpenBuild just like this Instructable. I then downloaded the pyramid from Thingyverse, launched Repetier Host, Sliced the file, Clicked the "Connect" button, clicked the button with the "House" icon, clicked "Print"....

    ...... CRASHED the head into the bed. Motors continued trying to push nozzle through the bed.... Arrrghh!!! PANIC!! Emergency Stop. Then literally LOL.

    I think there was supposed to be a G91 command i was supposed to issue first or something. I honestly don't know. But I cannot find a total noob baby steps guide. Probably because I don't even know what terms to search for. A lot of forums threads makes assumptions or starts off with people who already know how to print. How about for people who don't even have the most rudimentary knowledge (like me)? can someone point me in the right direction please. thanks.

    author
    Danny Lu made it! (author)Danny Lu2016-03-20

    I think researching on delta printer setups from reprtier host will help. You home house button should move nozzle to highest point and your z coordinates should be the maximum length that you mesured from nozzle to bed. Check your eeprom settings for the z distance.

    author
    MrTinkerer made it! (author)MrTinkerer2016-03-20

    Hi Danny,

    Thanks for the response but i was not clear on my intended question. That's my fault. I have corrected my Z height in my firmware since the head crash, and yes I am using Repetier. The nozzle no longer crashes into the bed.

    As easy as it is to configure Repetier firmware compared to Marlin, there are still many, many settings which are very vague, barely explained or not explained at all. The RepRap gcode wiki is also lacking in detailed explanations on a lot of Gcode commands too.

    So my actual intent was this. The firmware will hard code a Max Z height for our machines. Let's say 222.55mm (that's for my machine). But what if I want to start my print above that? The actual question to summarize, how do I override to start point of the firmware to a location that I specify?

    I have read through a lot of the Repetier info. I have also been lurking the Delta printer google group for about a year. My DeltaBot I built using my CNC router so I do know gcode. However, 3D printer gcode, and more specifically, RepRap gcode seems to have different "flavors," i.e. Gxx.xx does something on my CNC and something completely unexpected on my 3D printer. Even between 3D printers, what works in Repetier may not work in Marlin, Sprinter, Smoothieware, or RepRapFirmware.

    Consider this scenario. I want to print on top of an object that is 10mm tall (e.g a glass jewelry box). The object is sitting on my print bed which is 222.55mm below my Max-z height. How do I offset my print head 10mm higher? what GCode command does that in the RepRap world? Needing to edit my configuration.h file every time seems to be very inefficient way to do this.

    On my CNC router the command is called a "Touch off." It's G92. It seems to be G92 on 3D printers as well but hard to tell from the reprap wiki explanation.

    here is my homemade printer by the way...

    author
    Technovation made it! (author)Technovation2016-05-21

    Nice touch!

    author
    MrTinkerer made it! (author)MrTinkerer2016-05-25

    which part?

    author
    Danny Lu made it! (author)Danny Lu2016-03-21

    So for overriding the z height I think your G-code G92 is correct, for example G92 Z0 Sets the current Z position to 0 and G92 X10 Y10 Z0 sets the current position to these numbers. What I do to "continue" a print is to just delete all of the G-code before the layer the print stopped on and run that. The g code should be similar to CNC routers, I use this website to look up Gcodes http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code

    author
    MrTinkerer made it! (author)MrTinkerer2016-03-21

    Thank you Danny. Yes, that is my go-to site as well for 3D printer gcode referrence. Thanks again. Great Instructable by the way. I added to my favorites.

    author
    Technovation made it! (author)2016-05-21

    What would the rough amount of the total cost be like?

    author
    Dav22 made it! (author)2016-03-18

    Out of curiousty is this printer the same thing? http://insanedeals4u.com/products/high-precision-3-d-delta-3d-printer-plus-auto-level-k800-kossel-reprap-prusa-rostock-3d-printer-machine-kit-hot-bed-injection/

    author
    Danny Lu made it! (author)Danny Lu2016-03-20

    It is the same category of printers, but al lot of the components are different, such as hotend and extruder. The major difference I see is that it has a significantly longer bowden tube which requires a lot larger retraction distance. This causes more power and speed required on extruser motor and slightly more stringing.

    author
    navarredan made it! (author)2016-02-24

    Hi, Great printer. I just have one question. Why mount the motors on the top instead of in the base?

    author
    Danny Lu made it! (author)Danny Lu2016-02-25

    I was using a pretty big power supply and I wanted some space on the bottom. it would be better if you can fit it in with all the electronics

    author
    rikkebobbie007 made it! (author)rikkebobbie0072016-03-08

    Also wouldn't the EMF radiation produced by the coils in the motors mess up the electronics?

    author
    Danny Lu made it! (author)Danny Lu2016-03-14

    I don't think it's significant enough to change the motor's movement, but it is a concern of doing that.

    author
    ScottT56 made it! (author)2016-03-10

    Hi Danny, just to let you know, in the Bolts to be ordered, you are missing a few.

    Not listed: Metric Socket M3 30mm x? (used for connecting the two halves of the mount around the E3D assembly that comes up through the carriage plate, I went with Qty: 2)

    M4 Set Screw Any Above 20mm - 6x (should be 12x - used for connecting the Traxxas Rod Ends to the 6 Aluminium/Carbon Fiber tubes, 6 x 2 = 12).

    Just to let you know, I am starting to assemble mine now, making sure that everything is fitting properly before tightening everything down and I just ran into the fact that I didn't order any 30mm screws. Had to order the extra 6 set screws a few weeks ago for my carbon fiber tubes.

    Just to help anyone else out there planning on building from your design.

    author
    Danny Lu made it! (author)Danny Lu2016-03-11

    Thanks for sharing that, sorry for the mistake

    author
    navarredan made it! (author)2016-03-02

    Hi everyone, I made a google doc with hotlinks and prices for all the parts! Looks like the whole project should be under $600. Ill make changes if anyone finds typos or better prices, and will be giving Danny Lu editing privileges since its his awesome project.

    https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1rPir7plWhu...

    author
    ScottT56 made it! (author)2016-01-20

    Hello Danny, I saw in your YouTube About Me video that you have this build in SolidWorks, could there be anyway that you could share those build files? I am starting this build (still waiting on a few parts) and I would love to be able to use those SW drawings for reference.

    author
    Danny Lu made it! (author)Danny Lu2016-01-21

    I have uploaded on to the github. The files are a bit messy and the sliders are not updated to Open Build parts. Its called DeltaBotSolidworks.zip

    author
    DavidC54 made it! (author)2015-12-27

    Can you suggest somewhere I could get help with my Delta printer is not working at all

    author
    Danny Lu made it! (author)Danny Lu2015-12-28

    Is it hardware or software. Repetier has good forums and active replies.

    author
    Yonatan24 made it! (author)2015-12-12

    Great job on the 'Ible! I just love the look of open 3D printers!

    author
    jbuentello made it! (author)2015-11-16

    correct me if i'm wrong but if you cut the four extrusions like so:

    1) (372 mm bottom + 234.5 mm top + 893.5 print height) = 1500 mm

    2) (372 mm bottom + 234.5 mm top + 893.5 print height) = 1500 mm

    3) (372 mm bottom + 234.5 mm top + 893.5 print height) = 1500 mm

    4) (372 mm * 3 bottom) = 1116 mm

    wouldn't you maximum your print volume? I'm curious if there would be a reason you would choose against this?

    by the way, fantastic ible. i have been researching 3D printers for a while and have searched many places for good instructions and have decided to create a version of your design and parts are finally arriving! I really appreciate all of the hard work you put into it!

    author
    Danny Lu made it! (author)Danny Lu2015-11-17

    They seems to look correct, I didnt have as much print height because I don't usually print really large models so i keep it small. Good luck with your build!

    author
    shawnyd made it! (author)2015-10-07

    Hey Danny!

    Fantastic project, thank you so much for sharing this with us. I have a couple of questions for you if you have time.

    1) Do you have a recommended electronics distributor? I saw this kit for sale from China on ebay and I am wondering if you think it will work with your build?

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/3D-Printer-Kit-RAMPS-1-4-M...

    Thanks again Danny and I hope you have a great day.

    author
    Danny Lu made it! (author)Danny Lu2015-10-07

    Yeah, this will work no problem. You probably need some 2 pin and 4 pin connectors also. Nice find.

    author
    shawnyd made it! (author)shawnyd2015-10-08

    Thanks Danny!

    I really appreciate the help. I have been placing my orders all day trying to track down deals on parts. I am actually having a difficult time finding the 2 pin and 4 pin cables. I am thinking about just ordering a spool of each wire type and finding the appropriate terminals.

    I'll post pictures to show my progress once I begin the assembly.

    Have a great day!

    author
    Danny Lu made it! (author)Danny Lu2015-10-09

    yeah the connectors are a bit of a struggle to work out. I've used servo connectors as endstops wires if you didn't buy endstops with connectors. And I just used heat gun and tube to join 4 female connectors on the stepper wires(http://www.amazon.com/Female-Solderless-Flexible-B...). If I find ever some stepper motor extenstions, I'll let you know.

    author
    shawnyd made it! (author)shawnyd2015-10-13

    Hey Danny,

    Where did you find instructions on the heatbed you recommended. I can't find any information on how to install it and whether to use glass or aluminum and a preferred method for attaching the thermister. In the pictures it looks like you have your heatbed with the aluminum side up. but there is a black circle on it. If you have any insight on what you did I would appreciate the info. Other wise I will probably try a different heatbed.

    Thanks again!

    author
    shawnyd made it! (author)shawnyd2015-10-13

    Just saw the instruction to attach the thermister on the side of the heatbed. But if you could elaborate how you oriented yours I would still that advice.

    Thanks

    author
    Danny Lu made it! (author)Danny Lu2015-10-13

    The heat bed orientation shouldn't matter too much, you should either print on glass or something other than heat bed (BuildTak). The thermistor is attached with heat sink compound and tape. Another better possibility is to attach heat conductive material around the thermistor and secure onto the two screws on the side of it. Most people just tape it on the bottom tho which also works.

    heatbed_1.jpg
    author
    shawnyd made it! (author)shawnyd2015-10-13

    Alright, thanks again Danny. I just ordered kapton tape, a glass print surface and a few other odds and ends. I am thinking about milling a slight divet into the heat bed on the aluminum side to insert the thermister a litttle ways. Combined with the heat sink compound and kapton tape that should do the trick. Have you ever tried adhering kapton tape to your print surface to avoid blue tape or glue sticks? They talked about it in this RepRap wiki and I think i am going to try it out.

    http://reprap.org/wiki/Heated_Bed

    Cheers!

    author
    Danny Lu made it! (author)Danny Lu2015-10-14

    Yes, I've tried hair spray, glue stick, lexan, and acrylic. The lexan and acrylic didn't work so well that they stuck preeminently. PLA sticks to glass fine with heated bed to higher temperatures. hair spray worked great as you only need to spray ever 3 prints. I recommend buying BuildTak though. They don't need anything and can print for long periods of time until a replacement. Glue stick didn't work as well.

    author
    shawnyd made it! (author)shawnyd2015-10-14

    Alright thanks! This helps alot! All these little tips and tricks are great.

    My E3D kit with the volcano pack came today. Slowly but surely my parts are arriving. I will be laser cutting my brackets next week. I made a bunch of tool paths from your github files and will be nesting them in sheetcam this afternoon. I noticed that the top triangle file is mislabled though. I built my triangle with using 60 deg equilateral angles and offsetting my path with chamfers. It actually worked pretty well. We'll see if it all fits together though. Have a good day.

    author
    Danny Lu made it! (author)Danny Lu2015-10-14

    No problem. I'll update that. Thanks for the posts on your progress.

    author
    shawnyd made it! (author)shawnyd2015-10-14

    Awesome! Your welcome. Its exciting to start an adventure like this and its better to experience it with others so if you don't mind me sharing and asking questions it will definitely continue. :)

    Cheers!

    author
    shawnyd made it! (author)shawnyd2015-10-13

    Just saw the instruction to attach the thermister on the side of the heatbed. But if you could elaborate how you oriented yours I would still that advice.

    Thanks

    author
    shawnyd made it! (author)shawnyd2015-10-11

    Hey awesome thanks again! I really appreciate it. My packages started coming in and as soon as I have a full inventory I will start documenting and photographing my progress. I will keep you posted.

    author
    biraj1002 made it! (author)2015-09-28

    Hi I want to make one of this type of 3d printer. It will be help full if the diagram of circuit is more specific in this pic I didn't under stand wich wire goes where. I already bought all the parts but did not assembled it

    author
    Danny Lu made it! (author)Danny Lu2015-09-30

    Which specific diagram do you need? Is it how to wire the Ramps board or general electronics like power supply or endstops?

    author
    JoãoSantos12 made it! (author)2015-09-28

    Hello Danny! Great project, it is really good!
    I wanted to make this printer, but since I already own one I thought I could use it a bit more. I decided to make a printer based on this and on the mini kossel. I will say what would differ from your version and I hope you can tell me why you did so, and why do you think it is better the way you did.
    First of all I would cut down on the aluminum "junctions" (made with bent aluminum sheet) and use the kossel 3D Printed parts. This would include the stepper motor on the bottom part of the printer, do you have a specific reason for yours to be on the top? I would also put the sppol on top of the printer to decreasethe occupied space. I would maintain the suspended extruded with bowden extrusion, counter-weight system and most of your printer.

    What to you think about this changes, and what would you advice me to do?

    Thanks a lot.

    author
    Danny Lu made it! (author)Danny Lu2015-09-28

    Thanks, yeah I don't think there's anything big that need to be improved other than aluminum parts to 3D printed if you can't machine parts. 3D printed parts would work fine. Small things like the ball joints could be changed to magnetic or others for more movement and removablility. And adding a bowden tube before the extruder and maybe electronics on top so steppers don't need extensions. When your building it make sure all the rods are as equal as possible and towers correctly angled. It will make it really hard to calibrate if they are not made correctly.

    author
    braytonlarson made it! (author)2015-09-12

    How do you drive the 6 wire stepper motors with the 4 wire stepper drivers on the RAMPS shield?

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    Bio: I'm a undergraduate student currently at WPI who loves to tinker around and create projects. Some of the things I've created include: drones ... More »
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