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The 3d printer that i am about to show you how to build is not only one of the most affordable printers, but also is on of the most simplistic. Anyone can build the Deltatwister! You don't need any 3d printed parts or cnc machine to make this printer...Everything except the extruder can be made using hand tools like I did. Being 15 years of age i designed and built this 3d printer. Practically anyone with basic mechanical skills can build their own Delta Twister! Having a print volume of over 1000 cubic inches this printer really has it all...for only $400 compared to $800-3000. If you like what you see then please vote for me! I would really appreciate it.


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Step 1: Gathering Your Materials

Picture of Gathering Your Materials
nema motor.JPG
timing belt.JPG

You will need:
(1)Ramps v1.4 circuit board with drivers
(1)Arduino mega 2560 circuit board
(3) 36" 8mm linear rods
(6) 8mm linear bearings
(2) 3/8 in wooden dowel rods(4 feet each)
(12) 8mm rod ends
(4) nema 17 stepper motors
(3) stepper pulleys for a 5mm shaft
(1) 6M legnth of belt that fits your pulley
(1) rep rap heated bed.
(3) 3d printer endstops
(1) pc powersupply.
(3) computer fans
(1) j-head printhead
(1) extruder with a bowden tube(airtripper has a good unit).

(1)Meter of 1.75 mm Teflon tubing

This should total out to well under $400.

Step 2: Building Your Frame

Picture of Building Your Frame

The frame is key to a successful 3d printer.
What I did was make two equilateral triangles with sides two feet in length. I then cut 4.5 inch equilateral triangles off each of the vertices. I then made 3 pieces 4.5x38" as the sides. I included a picture of the triangle if that will help.
I then used 1" sections of 2x4's to act as supports for the main pieces. The long pieces are all 38 inches x 4.5 inches.

baecker0310 months ago

using wood is a great idea, the only problem is trying to replicate the structure. with wood it can be difficult... I am finishing up my own printer in fact, although I have taken great efforts to ensure the measurements are very close and every part moves smoothly and has recoil tolerance to ensure maximum accuracy and high resolution. this is key if you want pieces to be close to specification and high quality. I have used lightweight steel shelving brackets for parts of the structure. this might cost more and take more time to engineer... but is stronger and lighter. hot glue is something which could be used as well as long as it isn't near parts which will become hotter. it works well to transfer heat to metal parts too.

bpetno (author)  baecker0310 months ago

Good thoughts! thank you. Good luck with your build!

rfox41 month ago

I am in the process of building my own delta printer and using your instructable as a guide. So far buying everything open source and as affordable as I can i've spent only $169.63 for the electronics and attempting to hold my frame to parts on hand only thing i have left to find/purchase/make is the extruder with bowden tube.

jmh4745 months ago

Hi there first i got to say grate inscrutable, and im hoping to be making one soon, there is only one thing i dont get in your parts list you say you only need 3 x 36" 8mm linear rods but then you got onto say cut the rods to just under 29", but you would need 6 of these rods but i dont see how you would get 6 x 29" rod from 3 x 36" rods or am i missing you something thanks, i looks ford to trying to make a printer as good as yours

repkid10 months ago

Love the minimalism of this project. What are the tolerances like?

bpetno (author)  repkid8 months ago

The tolerances are not the best, as I used unsupported plastic in the arm carriage. and the printhead carriage was not held very well

Poppy Ann9 months ago

Hi there, just want to say what a great instructable, this is the first home built 3D printer of this type i have ever seen, i have seen a couple of kit type 3D printers of this design but they cost up in the thousands.

You did a great job making it you use techniques in building just the same as i do, people laugh at some of my builds with what i have used for projects they were not designed for but i always say if it works then it is the right item for the job, why have special clamps made when a couple of zip ties will do the job just as good.

bpetno (author)  Poppy Ann8 months ago

Thanks! While the machine works, the tolerances aren't the best, though. I am currently working on a new machine that I will post on instructables with some of the best tolerances out there.

Ahmad-Jaber8 months ago

I have a question for you bpetno when you made your rod supports you said that you measured 2 out from where the two lines intersected longways what was the measurement unit there

bpetno (author)  Ahmad-Jaber8 months ago

I measured two inches out from the lines. Sorry for my delayed response!

donhaynes10 months ago

Is there any way we could get a bigger version of the wiring diagram? My eyes aren't as great as they used to be, and that diagram is tiny. That being said, this is a beautiful build, and I am very impressed with your skills at 15. I'm excited to build this.

Went to the wiki and got large copy of the diagram for anyone interested.

3D printer wiring diagram.jpg
bpetno (author) 10 months ago
Here are two examples webster30! Hope these help. Btw if you need help or guidance on making one of these id love to help! Just PM me any questions!
14, 9:12 PM.jpg14, 9:12 PM.jpg
webzter3010 months ago

just getting into the 3d print thing. I want to make one myself.

You made it look simple. Any other examples of what you have printed with this?

vminzarescu10 months ago

Can you please upload a high definition image of the schematic ?

bpetno (author)  vminzarescu10 months ago

What do you mean by the "schematic"?

vminzarescu bpetno10 months ago
From step 10. The image is low resolution and i can't see where the wires go
justbennett11 months ago

I am so happy that this uses rubber bands, zip ties and bailing wire. AND it actually works. I love that you plan to use the machine to print it's own parts. Theoretically, you could improve the machine over time with better and better parts.

bpetno (author)  justbennett10 months ago


das123344410 months ago

can u upload that i can upload it to the 3d printer as i am also bad in coding...please!!

das123344410 months ago

what is the size of the printer head carriage??

das123344410 months ago

what is the size of the printer head carriage??

Jan_Henrik10 months ago

Very nice!!

good job! whatkind of filament did you use?

bpetno (author)  the lego guy 1410 months ago

Thank you! I used abs 1.75 millameter fillament.

robodude951 year ago

Really nice...Voted!

Great work, got my vote.
camvo1 year ago

Nice Job.

It sure looks sturdy. What is the weight?

bpetno (author)  camvo1 year ago

yes, it is very sturdy. I have not weighed the machine but I am guessing that It weighs maybe 30 lbs

Misac-kun1 year ago

Well, calibration is part of every 3D printer build.

Nice job Braden! Don't forget, you can enter in a total of three contests. I suggest the 'Full Spectrum Laser contest' and (provided the printer is light enough to carry around...) the 'Portable Workstation contest'. Good luck!!!

PS. Don't tell just anyone you have a working 3D printer, as they will ask you to print all sorts of stuff! ;-)

Or to build them one :-\

Great writeup and great project. Thanks for taking the time to do it.
bpetno (author) 1 year ago
Thanks! And thanks so much for your help

Very cool! Thanks for sharing!

or cheaper depending on where u go.