An english wheel is a classic hand-powered shop tool for making two-dimensional curves in sheet metal. Its used for making aircraft skins, car body parts, suits of armor and other applications where a smooth surface on the sheet is desired, something extremely difficult to achieve with a hammer. It is also very useful for planishing; smoothing dimpled or bumpy sheet metal after hammering.
An english wheel seemed like an excellent tool to build. I read up on the theory of operation to get an idea of how it worked, looked at some pictures of wheels on the internet, and I set forth to design and build it. The whole process only took two weeks, start to finish.
It works by stretching the small strip of material that comes in contact with both wheels as it is passed repeatedly between them. This stretching results in the material developing a curvature after many repeated passes. Rolling in different directions and angled results in different effects. You can see the results of my first test sheet, and all I had to go by was what I picked up from a couple of videos I saw on Youtube.
This instructable will be a rough-over of how to do most of the work, highlighting some insights I picked up along the way. You can scale the design ideas to make a benchtop model or a larger floorstanding version. The only thing that changes is the size of the "C" shape body, and the length of the adjustment screw, to accommodate larger work pieces.
An english wheel seemed like an excellent tool to build. I read up on the theory of operation to get an idea of how it worked, looked at some pictures of wheels on the internet, and I set forth to design and build it. The whole process only took two weeks, start to finish.
It works by stretching the small strip of material that comes in contact with both wheels as it is passed repeatedly between them. This stretching results in the material developing a curvature after many repeated passes. Rolling in different directions and angled results in different effects. You can see the results of my first test sheet, and all I had to go by was what I picked up from a couple of videos I saw on Youtube.
This instructable will be a rough-over of how to do most of the work, highlighting some insights I picked up along the way. You can scale the design ideas to make a benchtop model or a larger floorstanding version. The only thing that changes is the size of the "C" shape body, and the length of the adjustment screw, to accommodate larger work pieces.
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Signing UpStep 1: Design
The design is quite simple. The two wheels run against each other and the material is worked between them, with weight from the top one pressing down and pressure applied by the screw mechanism pressing the bottom one up, the sheet metal between is slowly thinned and curved.
I've made drawings of all the complex parts for the project. The ones not shown are just simple cut lengths of a standard size material (square tube, rod, etc) so a 2D drawing wouldn't be of any more help than just a written length. The PDF attached to this step is the design for the overall machine, showing the main lengths and their arrangement. I uploaded it as a PDF because the numbers and details are invisible as an image. The screw in red is just to show how it passes up through the bottom to allow adjustment.
I didn't have the material or lathe capability to make a 8" diameter disk for use as the top anvil, so I recommend purchasing one online or at Harbor Freight. A gigantic bearing would suffice, if you can find/get one. The bottom anvil is a curved bearing from a pillow block, these are perfect for this application because they are hardened and also run perfectly smooth and straight even if they are mounted off-center.
A bit about tools: Without welding, a mill or lathe, this project will be every difficult. Keep in mind that is project is designed for someone with access to machine tools. They don't need to be fancy, but they are virtually required to complete this project.
The following list correlates to the drawings below, and the quantities of each part you will need to make, and what material to make them out of.
In addition to these, you will also need to cut the following lengths of material:
Hardware:
I've made drawings of all the complex parts for the project. The ones not shown are just simple cut lengths of a standard size material (square tube, rod, etc) so a 2D drawing wouldn't be of any more help than just a written length. The PDF attached to this step is the design for the overall machine, showing the main lengths and their arrangement. I uploaded it as a PDF because the numbers and details are invisible as an image. The screw in red is just to show how it passes up through the bottom to allow adjustment.
I didn't have the material or lathe capability to make a 8" diameter disk for use as the top anvil, so I recommend purchasing one online or at Harbor Freight. A gigantic bearing would suffice, if you can find/get one. The bottom anvil is a curved bearing from a pillow block, these are perfect for this application because they are hardened and also run perfectly smooth and straight even if they are mounted off-center.
A bit about tools: Without welding, a mill or lathe, this project will be every difficult. Keep in mind that is project is designed for someone with access to machine tools. They don't need to be fancy, but they are virtually required to complete this project.
The following list correlates to the drawings below, and the quantities of each part you will need to make, and what material to make them out of.
- Guide rings (2) - 3/4" steel plate
- Pipe end cap (2) - 1/8" steel plate
- Lower anvil holder base (1) - 1/4" steel plate
- Gusset (4) - 1/8" steel plate
- Clamp/mounting bracket (4) - 3/16" steel angle
- Top anvil mounts (1) - 1/8" steel plate
- Threaded rod guide (1) - 3/4" steel plate
- Lower anvil holder side (2) - 1/4" steel plate
- Guide rod plate (1) - 1/4" steel plate
- Lower anvil pin (1) - 1/2" steel rod
- Anvil holder guide housing (1) 2" steel square tube
- Two bushings for the top and bottom anvils. These will depend on what you are using for anvils. They just need to be adapted for the holders.
In addition to these, you will also need to cut the following lengths of material:
- 9-1/2" length of 3/4" diameter threaded rod
- 4" length of 1-1/4" diameter steel pipe
- 2" length 1/2" solid rod
- 24", 26.75" and 26" lengths of 2" square tube, 1/8" thick wall
Hardware:
- 5x 3-1/2" long 1/2" bolts
- 5x 1/2" nuts
- 5x 1/2" lock washers
- 9x 1/2" washers
- 4x 8-32 1/2" flat head screws
frame.pdf8 KB
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What is the weight of the top roller?
What thickness of steel sheet can it handle?
The wheel weighs 21 lbs. 8" diameter, 2" wide.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Make-a-Tripod-Vise-Stand/
I can pick the whole thing up and move it around, but it stays put pretty good on its own too.
You can buy a commercially made benchtop English wheel from Metalcraft Tools in Crossville, Tennessee. They even have hands-on courses for those who wish to learn to use an English wheel. You can also buy the upper and lower anvils. The lower anvils come in a set with several styles.
My son-in-law does auto body work. One word of caution I learned from him is that it is very easy to run your thumb or fingers into the wheels, which is an experience you will never forget.
Great idea! Kudos.
On another note, you could get a machinist to tweak 2 wheels for you; one with a groove and another one with the exact opposite. You could make creases in floppy metal to add rigidity. Your english wheel just became a multitasker. ;)
I think can't get that big steel wheel.
Thanks for the patch :)