Step 2: Lower Anvil and Holder

The lower anvil in my project is a pillow block bearing, which has a curved outer edge perfect for this application.  The anvil is held on a pin which is placed on a U-shaped holder made of 1/4" steel plate.  This holder is welded to a 4" long steel pipe.  The other end is connected to another small plate with a rod welded to the bottom of it.  This rod, along with the two guide rings at the top, allow this entire assembly to move up and down inside the guide housing when the handle is turned.

At the bottom of the guide housing there is the threaded rod guide.  This plate with a 3/4" threaded hole in it is the only part that holds the adjustment rod.   The adjustment rod presses directly against the guide rod that is connected to the moving assembly.
<p>I would have made the mount to the upper anvil in heavier material. Did yours work with little or no flex / deflection?</p>
<p>It does deflect a little bit, but the deflection seems to come from around the entire length of the frame. It doesn't seem to deflect near the anvil mount. Making it more robust in that area would be a good idea.</p>
<p>Awesome. Really impressed to see the application and design of the &quot;A must&quot; tool.</p>
<p>What size pillow bearing did you use, OD and the ID? Can someone please tell me thank you.</p>
<p>It was around 2&quot; diameter.</p>
I made one very similar to this several years ago for forming motorcycle fuel tanks. I went a slightly different direction though, and put the adjustment screw on the large anvil on top, and put the small anvil in a V-block in the bottom leg. This allowed me to get inside the fuel tank shell and smooth out the hammer marks and die stretch marks that are impossible with the normal English wheel design. This also makes repeatable tension settings a breeze, since I put gradations on the adjuster wheel and the frame body. . .
thanks for this, its next on my 'to do' list now
I like that lower anvil, would be great for doing skinny bike fenders, mine are a tad too wide.
a great top anvil &quot;donor&quot; might be a wheel frm scaffolding. not to critique toooooo much, but your top anvil braces seem a tad weak, but awesome. i wanna make a replica of a vintage brass deep sea diving helmet....this might be just what i need.
I was thinking that too, but I tested it out and found it didn't need any reinforcement. The forces on that area are pretty straight vertical, so the thin material seems to do alright. The gusset on the inside of that corner helps a lot too.
excellent ible! This belongs in the 1% of what Instructables is about. A gem amongst so much uninteresting stuff (adhering to the &quot;be nice&quot; policy).<br>What is the weight of the top roller? <br>What thickness of steel sheet can it handle?
Thanks! I haven't tested any high gauges, but I would guess that a patient man might be able to do 16 gauge (59th, 1.5mm). I haven't tested it above about 20 gauge (35th, 7/8mm)<br><br>The wheel weighs 21 lbs. 8&quot; diameter, 2&quot; wide.
Great job!! I've looked at floor mounted English wheels before, but couldn't afford the shop space for such a beast. I like the fact that yours can be bolted to a workbench, then removed if the space is needed for something else. I may have to build one of these. Thanks for posting this.
That is what caught my eye with this one. All the English Wheels I've ever seen have been large self standing ones.
A very nice design... and if you were going to a slightly smaller scale(or had a massive heavy vice) you could weld a piece of plate along the bottom, and clamp it in a vice!
This is the biggest vise I have:<br> <br> <a href="https://www.instructables.com/id/Make-a-Tripod-Vise-Stand/" rel="nofollow">https://www.instructables.com/id/Make-a-Tripod-Vise-Stand/</a><br> <br> I can pick the whole thing up and move it around, but it stays put pretty good on its own too.
From what I've learned here, I bet one could be made from a C-clamp and used for small brass and aluminum sheets and the like.
The throat depth would limit the size pieces that could be worked though. The only real use I could put an English Wheel to would be automotive body work. Anymore I've been taking a car of the future mentality there anyways, with Bondo and fiberglass.
Yes of course. If you were doing jewelery or some kind of trinket-making a C-clamp sized version could be useful.
I guess so. Jewelery and trinket making aren't anything I'd do though. Nothing wrong with it for those with aptitude and interest, but I'm afraid I've neither unless I can divine a purpose. Sounds like nut house therapy to me if I'm going to be completely honest. I'm a bit twisted, but I ain't that far gone yet!
+1 on the nut house therapy....
the day I wake up and find myself at a long table stringing beaded bracelets along with a bunch of other slack jawed inmates is the day I really start to worry!
No problem. I had some of the stuff lying around so mine cost about $120. Full parts cost would probably be $140 tops.
Nice job !! If I can add a thought, if you were to make the wheels &amp; their mounts, removable you could attach an air hammer &amp; anvil to the frame to make a power hammer,two tools in the space of one...
Certainly. Might need some reinforcement, and the top anvil mount would have to be beefed up from 1/8&quot; plate.
What gauge of steel are you able to work with?
I was thinking maybe two steel or iron caster wheels would work. Does that sound feasible? How much pressure is between the wheels? I always imagined that it would have to be considerable, but you talk about the weight doing it.
I don't think the pressure is immense. Castor wheels sound like a great idea. It is important that the lower one is small and has rounded edges, however, or else it will be very hard to get a convex curve. The material contact point between the two wheels should be very small, only a single point, not a line.
Nicely done.<br> <br> You can buy a commercially made benchtop English wheel from<a href="http://www.metalcrafttools.com/btenglishwheel.html" rel="nofollow"> Metalcraft Tools</a> in Crossville, Tennessee. They even have hands-on courses for those who wish to learn to use an English wheel. You can also buy the upper and lower anvils. The lower anvils come in a set with several styles.<br> <br> My son-in-law does auto body work. One word of caution I learned from him is that it is very easy to run your thumb or fingers into the wheels, which is an experience you will never forget.
Yes, I should look into what I would imagine to be steel-toe boots for your fingertips! Not a bad idea, there.
Do either of the wheels have a convex shape? I couldn't tell by the photos. I always thought it was necessary to achieve the complex shapes.<br><br>Great idea! Kudos.
The bottom wheel has a convex shape, yes. Thats important otherwise the material will not easily take on a convex shape itself. The top wheel is flat, but I do not see a reason why it couldn't be convex too.
If both wheels were convex you could transition from a downward curve to an upward without flipping the piece around.<br><br>On another note, you could get a machinist to tweak 2 wheels for you; one with a groove and another one with the exact opposite. You could make creases in floppy metal to add rigidity. Your english wheel just became a multitasker. ;)
Yep, different wheels for different tasks makes it pretty darn versatile.
Astoundingly magnificent work, sir. I fear that you have become craftsmanship personified.
This tool seems very useful. What if I use two bearings of same size? <br><br>I think can't get that big steel wheel.
I think it should work... The large weight helps, however. I think if you had to use a smaller one you might need to reinforce the frame to prevent any flexing. You can always add additional reinforcement if it doesn't work.<br><br>Thanks for the patch :)

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