The fan gives you coolness on a hot summer day. The heater inside provides you with a warm breeze in those cold winter months. This fan/heater comes with a ambient led indicator: cold=blue, warm=purple. The fan speed and the amount of warmth can be fine-tuned.
As an extra it is suitable for extracting harmful solder fumes. Replace those bulky desk fans with this smaller more convenient fan.
The total cost of the desk fan/heater = 7 dollar. The only part I bought was the PWM dimmer, all the other parts were laying around in my garage.
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Signing UpStep 1: Materials and tools
Materials:
- Power Jack
- Spring
- Turning knob
- Wooden board 9mm thick
- Wooden stick 12mm in diameter
- Switch
- Computer fan 12v
- PWM dimmer
- RGB led strip
- Power supply 12v 3amps minimum
- Electric wires
- Copper rods 10cm long 1,5mm thick
Tools:
- Super glue
- Wood glue
- Wood wax
- Jig saw
- Sand paper
- Wood clamps
- Drill
- Drill bit 5mm, 6mm, 7mm, 12mm
- Hole saw 90mm
- Solder
- Solder iron













































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http://www.shinyhardware.co.uk/prods/showprod.asp?pid=18732
Cheap and decent, I bought one ages ago.
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/120782777352?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
I would suggest a sensible fuse in the circuit is a good protective device in case of excessive current.
Is putting a heat source (30 watts is quite a lot) in a wooden case advisable?
My design is like putting a 30w light bulb in a open wooden box with a fan on it.
But yes nichrom wire would be a better option. Also a tilt switch is advisable so everything shuts down when the box is putt on his back.
Tilt switch = good
Thermal fuse appropriately located near the resistance heater = good + necessary.
A way to clean the dust and crap out of it every year or so.... Fluff and dust = fire hazard.
All is OK - even with a hair dryer - until the fan stops - ask my wife! :-)
Your drilling was perfect not just with pattern spacing, but also for smooth bore holes. Wasn't till I saw the close ups that I could tell it wasn't laser cut.
I'd suggest to anyone else that they clamp a piece of sacrificial board to the front faceplate, to avoid splintering when the drill bit punches through.
Other suggestion is to skip the heating element and buy the right sized 12v light bulb... An incandescent bulb is a heater, light, resistor, and safety fuse all in one.
Also with those long power bus bars you could easily add one or two more springs in there to get a little bit more heat blowing through. Plenty of space in there, but obviously the power requirements go up.
GREAT JOB!
Nice touch with the back lit LED's