I was getting tired of having to heat up my soldering iron just for one thing, so i created my own solution. This is very sturdy and reliable. Believe it or not, it solders wires better than a regular soldering iron and it has a L.E.D. for light! (Big thanks to guyfrom7up for helping me with the power supply)
here is the model i have for the pedal. here
I made this whole thing out of just a sewing machine pedal and some wire. it is able to solder up to 14 gauge wire. this will take about an hour to build and it will cost however much you pay for a sewing machine pedal. (there cheap). i used a broken one.
The second you make a connection between the solder and the two electrodes, it instantly sucks the solder on to the wire and will NOT come off! yes, this does have the same concept as Coldheat but is way better. you don't have to hassle over making a connection. it is also way more powerful.
By the way, those sewing machine pedals are filled with carbon plates and electrodes, dont throw them away!
Below is a video of it in action!
Step 1: Materials and tools
Almost everything is taken from the actual pedal itself. the rest are very easy to get.
sewing machine pedal
16 gauge wire
alligator clips (3)
Carbon rod 9i took this from a dry cell battery)
a piece of metal
L.E.D. and its power supply
12v 4amp power supply.
*********** Before you start, you must take apart your pedal. open up the back, and you should see a concrete like block. crack that open and you will hit the mother load of carbon. you need the carbon and the spring.
Step 2: The bottom Electrode
The bottom electrode consist of a spring, a screw, and a piece of carbon. all this can be found on the pedal.
First, place the carbon electrode in the spring. it should fit perfectly, but i don't know about other models. then, the screw that adjusts the speed needs to be placed inside the spring and then screw
Step 3: Taping
Because the whole thing is made of metal, we need to separate the two electrodes from shorting out. so, underneath the top that slides up and down, we need to layer it in electrical tape so that it doesn't short. Look at the pictures.
Step 4: Hooking it up
once its taped off, feed a wire threw the opening of the pedal. (see below). One end should be hooked up to the alligator clip and the other left bare. then, in the input hole, put the wire threw that.
This step is kind of confusing. look at the pictures.
Step 5: Hooking it up: Part Two
Now, we need to hook up the other wire. remember the screw that was connected to the spring? wee will be connecting the wire to that. solder it on good so it doesn't come undone. then, take the wire and put it threw the input hole like before.
Sorry it looks a little blurry.
Step 6: Hooking up the L.E.D.
now, the led is used for some lighting so you can see while you're working. you do not have to put one in, but i put one in because of the challenge. hook up the led to a resistor and then to a battery. i couldn't find my solder so i wasn't able to take pictures of it but you should know how to hook up a led. you can add a switch to.
Step 7: Putting the Electrode Together
The top electrode will get hot and may melt threw the tape. so, place a piec of metal under it as a heat sink. tape it down and the tape the alligator clip down. once its taped, place the carbon rod on the alligator clip.
This step is confusing. luckily, theres pictures!
Step 8: Finishing Up!
For this, just put the back plate on and your done. you can even add alligator clips to the two wires.
Step 9: How to use
finally, take your two wires or components you wish to solder, and strip the two ends. fray them and slide them into each other. then wrap it in about 1 inch of solder. place it on the bottom electrode, and press down. it will heat up instantly and suck the solder on to the wire. you never have to heat up your soldering iron again!