Cover.png
This is an instructable for my small sized steam boiler.  I wanted a solid boiler that I could use to run small steam engines, turbines or in this case a "steamfuser" which is a heated aluminum container that lets a scented liquid vaporize and be carried into the air with the rising steam...there are store bought units that will do this much more safely with flicking lights and scent infused paper, but lets be honest, fire, steam, copper and brass win hands down.

The unit was built entirely in my apartment with a hand drill and a rotary tool.  I used a small soup can for the boiler and some various hardware store fittings to plumb the system.  If your looking to make a little, attractive looking boiler to steampunk up your place read on!



 
Remove these adsRemove these ads by Signing Up

Step 1: Parts

Picture 1.png
The main parts you'll need for this build can be changed wildly depending on your available materials.  I picked up most of my parts from my local hardware store and a couple items from a hobby shop.  The main things you need are a soup can for the boiler body, some heat resistant tubing to carry the steam around (I used model airplane fuel line), and a little bit of sheet metal to form the boiler housing (I used brass sheet) and some 1/4" copper tube to make a few connection points and the heating coil.  A torch and solder are also needed to make a few connections...the one pictured is massive and while it did work I used a small handheld one for most of the connections.

Note : The vinyl tubing picture DOES NOT work which I soon found out.  Silicone is the way to go for the high heat resistance.
joshabgvghn says: Apr 4, 2013. 2:35 PM
Maybe have it nearly all copper tubing but add a small amount of silicone tubing to connect the boiler up
itri45 says: Dec 2, 2012. 6:54 AM
Is it possible to run a steam engine such as this: http://www.instructables.com/id/Hardware-Store-Steam-Engine-full-instructions/
without having to use some sort of pump?
[corosive] says: Nov 24, 2012. 4:11 PM
will copper pipe cleared to 65 Degrees Celsius work? Does it need to be rated for higher?
mase2150 says: Oct 13, 2012. 6:25 AM
how dud you bend your copper tubing did you heat it up or what
jaksjerky says: Aug 4, 2012. 8:47 PM
Great project! To easily bend copper tubing, fill it with water and freeze. Then bend by hand. Works great.
Click796292 says: Jul 10, 2012. 8:12 AM
How dee do ( ^ ^ )
I was browsing the internet for good steam projects and man, this one caught my eye. I'm afraid that I may not have any of the materials for this project in my current possession, so naturally being new to this, I wanted to know if you had an estimate to how much this project would cost all together. Where I live we have quite a few hardware stores and hobby shops, but I wanted an idea of how much cash I should have in my wallet before I go running around.
myakka says: Jun 14, 2012. 8:57 PM
Hey i was wondering if enclosing a boiler would keep the heat in longer and therfore make it run better?
longwinters says: Mar 18, 2012. 5:44 PM
I certainly like your project, but I must confess there is not nearly enough potential for injury or death.

When I saw the steam coming out I thought of a superheated fuel reheating the boiler and the excess being used for a mantel lamp or stove, in other words put fuel in the boiler and use half to heat it, and the other half to cook or produce light.( never mind the fact that that defeats the purpose of driving a turbine.)

Come on isn't the idea of flaming fuel and metal shards blowing in all directions more exciting than just scalding water and shards?

This concept can be seen in the pop can stoves that heat their own fuel and burn quite well on alcohol.

Your soldering seems quite talented so why not but in a smoke stack up the middle and get rid of the wandering flames, maybe a peice of 1/2 copper.

Don't ya just love after the fact advise? Thanks for posting I love these types of projects.
Confounded Machine (author) says: Jun 5, 2012. 10:42 AM
Haha, many thanks for all the kind words. I completely agree with your comments on danger and destruction :).
Falkenzz says: May 20, 2012. 11:01 AM
I do hope that base wasn't made out of wood...
Falkenzz says: May 20, 2012. 10:59 AM
I think this creation calls for some random gears to be glued onto the side!
wreckedangle says: Mar 13, 2012. 1:26 PM
This might be a dumb question, but how much water is recommended in the can?
Confounded Machine (author) says: Mar 15, 2012. 10:47 PM
Never a dumb question.

I usually fill the can about half way and shut the unit down when its nearing the bottom of the slight "glass". Filling it more then half will just lead to a longer boil time...no damage is going to ensue if you fill er up, might just get some water coming thru the steam lines if you reach a rapid boil and possibly a smaller area for a good head of steam to build.
Trooper555 says: Jan 4, 2012. 1:54 PM
I still dont understand what is the tube on the side of the boiler for? is it really nessasary? i still love this design, I'm just curious.
Confounded Machine (author) says: Jan 4, 2012. 2:46 PM
The tube on the side of the boiler is a makeshift sight glass that lets you see the water level of the boiler.

Thanks for the kind words :).
Trooper555 says: Jan 5, 2012. 2:47 PM
Thanks! I hope you make more Instructables.
cramsey2 says: Dec 13, 2011. 3:13 PM
How much did it cost for all the materials?
Confounded Machine (author) says: Jan 4, 2012. 2:48 PM
Going off memory it had to be right around $50 assuming you buy everything pictured.
kingbirdy says: Sep 29, 2011. 1:22 PM
so has anyone built any kind of "add-on" to theirs? It seems like it should be more than possible with the modular nature of the system.
dbanbery says: Sep 22, 2011. 11:34 AM
I think its a hydraulic valve or microbore central heating valve
viktorg says: Aug 24, 2011. 3:10 PM
I have now also build my boiler and it works fine, but it is only the boiler that is ready for now. =)

I have used a solder that is for 235 degreas Celcius, and I hope this is enough?

I haven´t tried the boiler at full capacity jet because I dont want to do this inhouse. I have used a "saftyvalue" that is orginaly used on Wilesco toy steam engines. I have built it with my multi-knife, and mini-burner when I had all the tools in the boat.. but it worked well. :)
bild (1).JPGbild.JPG
sam D says: Aug 15, 2011. 8:11 PM
This is a great instructable. I like the 50psi test method - very handy.

A question - what was the wattage of the electrical soldering iron that you mention please?
Confounded Machine (author) says: Aug 15, 2011. 9:59 PM
Many thanks!

I actually only used a butane torch for the soldering work on this boiler. The soldering station pictured in the background of the parts photograph is one I use for electronic work and its the weller WESD51.

Baronrc says: Jul 24, 2011. 1:14 PM
i love this little boiler! I have been thinking of building a basic steam engine for my son, a little father-and-son project. I was thinking of a wheel/turbine that's rotated by a jet of pressurized steam. I think your boiler is perfect for my needs.
ducktape3618 says: Jul 19, 2011. 10:44 AM
wow! i like this. it's very simpel! i think i am gonna make this.
Confounded Machine (author) says: Jul 24, 2011. 11:56 AM
Many thanks, my goal was to keep is simple for everyone to construct.
x-tian says: Jul 21, 2011. 5:00 AM
Rubber tubes mostly don't like fire, so you might want to put a small copper tube between the boiler and the rubber, to keep it out of the flames.
Confounded Machine (author) says: Jul 24, 2011. 11:56 AM
Actually the tubing is silicon tubing which can handle much higher temperatures then rubber or vinyl tubing can. However a length of copper tubing would probably look better at the expensive of being a little more difficult to connect.
techno guy says: Apr 8, 2011. 1:47 PM
Where can I get alcohol to use as fuel? Can I get it at a store because I will not buy online.
ducktape3618 says: Jul 19, 2011. 10:43 AM
you can buy it at the super market.
ImageMaker says: Jul 5, 2011. 4:24 AM
You can buy the 91% rubbing alcohol (isopropyl alcohol) from the store, if you prefer the grocery store or pharmacy over the hardware store. It's not quite as clean burning as denatured ethanol or methanol (HEET), but at around $2 for a quart bottle, it's inexpensive and does work. Like those lighter alcohols, it will burn without a wick, but you'll get a cleaner, more concentrated flame if you build a burner with a piece of cotton clothesline or similar for a wick.
jgraznak says: Apr 11, 2011. 7:50 AM
I use gas line anti-freeze/water remover sold in the US under the brandname of HEET, in my backpacking beer can stoves. Under $1 a bottle on sale, nearly pure methol alcohol. Easy to find, easy pour bottles, cheap and clean burning.
drahcus says: Apr 8, 2011. 7:21 PM
Most hardware stores carry denatured alcohol that burns well enough. I've used it to run jet turbines before.
mazzas says: Apr 23, 2011. 11:43 AM
I'm guessing that a Sterno can would work nicely.
_Scratch_ says: Jun 15, 2011. 5:35 PM
Try acetone, almost burned down my house with it, but it burns clean and with a nice, small and hot flame.
compgeek86 says: Jun 4, 2011. 9:18 PM
I wonder if using a little hobo stove like this one:
http://www.instructables.com/id/Cool-Little-Miniature-Stove!/
would make for a more controlled heat source without too much complexity?
mac77 says: May 19, 2011. 5:53 AM
you can put several pieces of fishing line through the pipe until it is in tight and then bend the pipe. if the fishing line does not come out easy you can heat the pipe and melt it out.
famos_amos says: Apr 24, 2011. 3:26 PM
what size copper tubing did you use for this part, it dosnt look like 1/4"
Confounded Machine (author) says: Apr 24, 2011. 8:16 PM
All the copper tubing is indeed 1/4". The valve was simply the smallest valve I could find at the hardware store, they sell them with all sorts of connection options and connection angles but a simple inline valve that accepts copper pipe at both ends should work (the one used).
~teknoarsonist~ says: Apr 23, 2011. 8:46 PM
Thanks! Great Instructable, very informative! (even the comments!) I tried my hand at this, and the first time i used too much heat and caught the lining on fire. second time worked like a charm! :) i would also suggest, that when removing the contents, i used a punch to make a second hole and inserted a basketball filler attachment and used a bike pump to "blast" the contents out. it worked a LOT faster than letting it drip, i would also suggest trying a compressor if you have access to one.
Confounded Machine (author) says: Apr 24, 2011. 8:14 PM
Thank-you for the reply! Glad to see you gave it a whirl, the pump idea sounds good as well. I went with the fill and shake till your arm falls off method which seems far less effective then your blast method ;).
famos_amos says: Apr 24, 2011. 3:59 PM
what kind of valve is that?
Steelsmith1 says: Apr 19, 2011. 5:36 PM
While electronis solder will work fine, I have found one of the easiest paste fluxes to make things like this easy is Tinning Paste Flux, I used Oatey brand on a number of things. There is regular and water soluble, and I have used both. Regular seems a little better to me. Basically a zinc chloride paste with solder granules in it. I got it at WalMart for the regular.
HumaKaVoola says: Apr 18, 2011. 3:05 PM
I was just wondering, could you do the whole project with brass tubing instead of using the model airplane fuel line?

Thanks for sharing your great build with us all!
Confounded Machine (author) says: Apr 18, 2011. 3:19 PM
Thank-you for the kind words,
I dont see any reason why you couldn't use metal tubing for the whole setup. I just used the silicone tube to make the project a little more simple.
Default117 says: Apr 14, 2011. 11:39 PM
Great idea and interesting build. I may try this myself. I'd hate to be a killjoy but I did however, notice a few hiccups. As you mentioned in the video, the tube pops off when the valve is shut off. Perhaps a three-way valve would remedy this? Second is the boiler container. To prevent corrosion, most cans (including soda cans and cans for canned food) contain an epoxy lining, usually bisphenol A or polyethylene terephthalate. It goes without saying that some pretty nasty stuff could result from burning it.
Confounded Machine (author) says: Apr 15, 2011. 9:43 AM
Thanks!
The tube will only pop off if the pressure exceeds 50psi which is WAY more then you'd need to run a small steam engine or turbine, during normal pressure (10-20psi) all tubes remain attached ;).

I completely agree with you on the can lining subject. During soldering I noticed some nasty fumes coming from the can into my fume extraction system, however during boiling the water inside keeps the can around 100C and I havent noticed any of the epoxy burning off.

kleinjahr says: Apr 14, 2011. 3:14 PM
Full steam ahead!! Watt a nice build. Glad you thought of safety blowoff.
Might be useful to work out a condensate return. hmmmm
For various burner and turbine plans check out the PM Shopnotes 1905-1930. Whistles too. wooohoooo.
Appollo64 says: Apr 12, 2011. 1:58 PM
what size can is that?
Confounded Machine (author) says: Apr 13, 2011. 9:56 PM
I cant remember the capacity but its about 2" in diameter and just short of 4" long.
matthewtyler1 says: Apr 13, 2011. 6:32 PM
can the steam fuser also work as a heat exchanger to cool off the air for lower tempreture applications?
Confounded Machine (author) says: Apr 13, 2011. 9:54 PM
I'd imagine if you made the cup larger, used more wraps of pipe and kept the inside cool (water, ice, ect) it should work. At the rate the steam runs thru my small coil it has very little chance to cool down and still comes out very hot.

absolutekold says: Apr 13, 2011. 6:37 AM
for a more permanent setup i would either run all copper lines and just use the high temp silicone lines as connection fittings.. or maybe cover the silicone with the braided stainless line covers people use for detailing engines. it comes in sizes down to 1/4" found in all big chain auto part stores (pepboys,autozone,etc) .either leave it shiny or just dust it with a matte finish paint and some rust paint, then "tickle" the brass sheet with the torch to get the colors to run. this should give it the old worn look. I'll hit the garage this weekend and see what i have laying around if i get it together i'll post it.
mirza_tz says: Apr 12, 2011. 11:52 PM
this is so cool
drawe21 says: Apr 12, 2011. 1:00 PM
You can touch hot stuff, just don't touch it for long and all is well. You can even walk on hot coals from a fire if you keep going and don't stop to look. ( I have )
absolutekold says: Apr 12, 2011. 9:21 AM
powering a micro( "pencil") wood lathe would be pretty epic in itself. then you could burn the shavings.. i've seen the blueprints to build a 1/2 horse monster boiler and a engine to go to it but haven't tried yet.. a boiler that big is a bomb if you don't know what you're doing (i had to watch safety vids when i ran a boiler in the navy, seriously google boiler failure if you want to build a real one... a real boiler is always one step away from a bomb).. it would be awesome to build a micro machine shop run off of a line shaft like the 1800's. this build is nice and it'll look cool on the desk without danger of detonating. the can will die pretty quick with the thermal shifts and pressure but that is fine can's are cheap and a few hours of work to rebuild the whole thing (soldered copper pipe idea is more effective and will live longer but also more of a bomb). most of all if everything goes wahooni shaped all you get here is a pop and a wet table not a bang and shrapnel. all in all great job will have build one for myself... sure does beat the wife's scented oil heater (but don't tell her i said that) may want to run the coil in reverse and have the steam enter at the bottom of the collector can. where it'll bubble up and spread the sent around
Confounded Machine (author) says: Apr 12, 2011. 12:54 PM
Very wise words, thanks for the comment. Running the coil backwards would be pretty sweet and give you a cool bubbly cauldron effect. I also think those old belt drive systems are awesome, that on my desk and a little steam whistle I could fire off at the end of the day :).

itsthatsguy says: Apr 10, 2011. 11:00 AM
to 60 celsius, did you mispeak? thats 140 F thats a lethal tempurature....
DELETED_kage_no_akiri says: Apr 10, 2011. 12:05 PM
(removed by author or community request)
itsthatsguy says: Apr 10, 2011. 2:23 PM
140 is the fda's recommended internal temperature for cooking beef.....
absolutekold says: Apr 12, 2011. 8:51 AM
more importantly there is no pressure here.. i used to work around high pressure steam systems.. those were dangerous. at near 700 F and 2000+psi you cant see the steam nor can you hear it. anything passing in front of it will get cut (and cauterise so don't hope to get it put back on).. the steam here even if it did exceed 212F isn't under any more pressure that a good tea kettle can build up. use the same precautions and everybody will be fine
Alderin says: Apr 10, 2011. 3:25 PM
...and 160 is the FDA's recommended internal temperature for cooking poultry or pork, but that is for sterilization of certain harmful bacteria. This little thing doesn't raise the ROOM temperature, just the temperature inside the little cup, inside the little soup can, and all of the hoses and fittings. Obviously, don't touch, it's hot. No, it isn't safe, but it also isn't lethal.
Confounded Machine (author) says: Apr 10, 2011. 5:56 PM
Ding ding ding we have a winner. :)
techno guy says: Apr 8, 2011. 1:23 PM
I thought it would be funny if you actually ran the boiler on coal like a train but with smaller features like a small shovel for the coal and a small container for the coal.
absolutekold says: Apr 12, 2011. 8:38 AM
While it sounds cool and looks cooler it is difficult to accomplish.. i work with coal in my blacksmithing hobby and the stuff is pretty hard to light and will die out if you don't have enough air flowing through it. (by induced draft or by fan power). also there is the sulphur laden smoke that coal produces. personally i love the smell of fresh coal burning but the soot it leaves on everything is a bit annoying and some people don't feel the way i do about the smell. so unless the train is massive (like 1/8 scale) and used outdoors coal isn't a good choice. it would be more feasible to have it look coal powered and actually use fuel tablets or a small burner of some design. but if you build one i would be interested in seeing it posted here. this design here could probably run a very small engine and turn a small generator to light a led... or maybe run a pencil lathe.. that would be epic!
skrumbah says: Apr 11, 2011. 2:44 PM
Nice boiler. I went to the cnc site and couldn't find the drawings of the cnc you had made. Am I blind or are they not there?
Confounded Machine (author) says: Apr 12, 2011. 7:19 AM
Thanks, the DXF files should be in this post:

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/879383-post18.html

Explanations of the files follows in post 19:

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/879408-post19.html

SimonRawr says: Apr 11, 2011. 3:33 PM
Would a tea light work as heat source? Is there any other way to heat this besides an open flame like that?
chakra says: Apr 12, 2011. 4:44 AM
u can try heater coils used in hair dryers or clothes press (irons)
blakllll says: Apr 11, 2011. 9:03 PM
what song is this on the video
Opcom says: Apr 11, 2011. 4:14 PM
I can see how the heat must flow up around the corrugated sides of the can inside the shroud to escape. Very thoughtful.

My commet about soldered tin cans is that a small amount of pressure is OK. How small is small? Other comment is that food cans usually have a plastic type of coating inside to seal them. Unknown what excessive heat may do to it.

If you can find it, "The Boys' Book Of Engines, Motors, And Turbines" by Alfred Morgan is intriguing and uses a paint can as the pressure vessel in one of the projects.
Spokehedz says: Apr 11, 2011. 11:34 AM
You wanted a suggestion on how to make bending the pipe without it kinking, and here it is:

A mixture of 1/3 liquid hand soap to 2/3 water in the tube. Let it freeze solid, and then bend to your hearts delight. You may want to play around with the mixture of soap to water, as you want it to be frozen but not frozen solid like regular ice.

The soap lets the ice 'slip' a little bit in the tube so that when you bend it, it won't fracture and cause unsightly bumps where the ice broke into sharp edges. Plus, it melts cleanly and you can wash it out with regular tap water.

I am very happy to report that this works on tubes from 1/8th of an inch all the way up to 1/2 an inch. I can't bend any larger on my tube bender... So I only suspect it will work on larger diameters.
mpettit says: Apr 11, 2011. 1:26 PM
If you pack it with fine sand that will work as well.
thewhitedogdad says: Apr 11, 2011. 10:50 AM
Tubing benders are inexpensive and easy use. There is one type that the tubing is slid into a spring and you bend the tubing by hand, Then you slide the spring off when you have the tubing the shape you desire. Another type uses guides for the tubing to slide into then by squeezing the attached handles you can bend the tubing to the desired shape.
microbike says: Apr 11, 2011. 5:15 AM
Well done on the boiler but if you want to use it many times get rid of the can. The walls are too thin and the slightest bit of corrosion and you have a pipe bomb!
Please for your next one use some copper or brass for the boiler and add a safety valve. After all a can is not ment to take any pressure.
Davidfromcali says: Jul 21, 2007. 1:18 PM
If you design the whole system to run open then pressure build up is not a problem.
Confounded Machine (author) says: Apr 11, 2011. 8:56 AM
I agree...you'll notice in the first picture I actually had 2 copper end caps and a center straight section I planned on soldering together for the main boiler body.

For a higher pressure more rugged unit I would look to an older article from a popular mechanics magazine called the "Hardware store steam boiler". Its built from gas pipe and also includes plans for a homebuilt pressure relief valve. Its a very nice strong unit which will stand up to years of work.

Davidfromcali says: Apr 11, 2011. 10:00 AM
At places that sell cooking tools like 'Kitchen Connection' you can buy tiny funnels that are used for pouring your own hot sauces down those tiny necks of empty hot sauce containers. Stainless, plastic, your choice. It would make the whole process neater, more efficient.

author - lets be honest, fire, steam, copper and brass win hands down.

YES.

Great idea.

David from cali
flamekiller says: Apr 10, 2011. 10:05 PM
Ah, nothing like good ol' circuitous functionality. Kind of like the government, but much more awesome!
Confounded Machine (author) says: Apr 11, 2011. 8:58 AM
I think you hit the nail on the head there :).
SimonRawr says: Apr 11, 2011. 8:26 AM
Is the sight glass tube necessary? And where did you get your silicone tubing?
jgraznak says: Apr 11, 2011. 7:39 AM
Clever mounting method, I think I would use it even if I did inlet the base. A lower tech method for routing might also be a Dremel drill press. Again, not everyone has access to one, but they are under $50 new. I love mine and use it as a router stand more than about anything, although it does a great job on getting precise holes on curved surfaces. By marking, drilling a starter hole and going slow and/or with a quicky homemade fence, I've carved some pretty complex inletting.
jgraznak says: Apr 11, 2011. 7:22 AM
You could also check for tightness by just submersing the whole assembly in a sink or bathtub and looking for bubbles. A dot or two of dish soap in the water makes them easier to see.
nax says: Apr 10, 2011. 4:46 PM
Another fuel to try: hand cleaner gel.
fozzy13 says: Apr 7, 2011. 1:17 PM
Such an awesome project!! I hope we get to see a steam turbine eventually.
Confounded Machine (author) says: Apr 7, 2011. 1:56 PM
Thankyou!
I hope to as well! I plan to CNC myself a small turbine wheel and couple it to an electric dynamo to generate power. What would really be fun would be to run it thru a 5volt regulator and turn it into a steam powered cell phone charger!

dudaott says: Apr 10, 2011. 1:39 PM
Hi Counfounded Machine!

How about using a Tesla Turbine instead of a "regular" one? You can find some in here (Instructables) or over the Internet...

Best Regards

Dudaott
steveo625c6 says: Apr 10, 2011. 12:33 PM
Just curious how you plan to build a turbine on a CNC. Unless its a 5 axis. If you know how to make a turbine on a 3 axis CNC let me see the code, I would love to recreate this at school!
Confounded Machine (author) says: Apr 10, 2011. 5:54 PM
You wouldn't cut it in one go! You would mill the platters then 2 halves of the enclosure (if were talking telsa turbine). For a regular turbine blade I would mill the top, drill position marks, flip and mill the bottom. I've done full on 3D cuts with my machine you just need to get a little crafty with the hold downs and work your planes correctly.

steveo625c6 says: Apr 10, 2011. 11:03 PM
Now I must say my knowledge of CNC is minimal, I'm only in my first year of the major. With that said, my mind has been wondering for weeks on what to build, possible rigs to build it.

As for a true turbine, I was thinking of using an indexing head to have the mill cut one segment, then rotate to the next degree and run the program till you are completely around the part.
Phoghat says: Apr 10, 2011. 10:31 AM

My Only niggle is the alcohol (?) open flames. I would have preferred a alcohol lamp, maybe a heat source from some crushed charcoal briquets or something of the like. Those open flames make me a bit jittery.

Otherwise a ver nice idea and very good execution.
Kinnishian says: Apr 10, 2011. 9:21 AM
You can buy a small dynamo for $2-3 dollars off of deal extreme that's integrated with the 5volt dc usb output. It's not super exciting, but the make-work would be in the turbine anyway.
fozzy13 says: Apr 7, 2011. 5:31 PM
That would be amazing!! I've had nearly the same idea in my head at one point or another, I'd love to see it. And your avatar shows an arc reactor t-shirt, like the one I made this past Halloween.. We're practically related : )..
Confounded Machine (author) says: Apr 10, 2011. 5:51 PM
Thanks! I think all geeks are into steam and iron man...its like a right of passage.

Celesmeh says: Apr 10, 2011. 12:52 PM
Can you use a tealight candle?
trike road poet says: Apr 10, 2011. 12:46 PM
Wickedly funny and just the perfect desktop project! I look forward to the later versions of this, ought to be a hoot!
xtreker15 says: Apr 7, 2011. 2:08 PM
Looks a bit more like a desktop still.
Confounded Machine (author) says: Apr 7, 2011. 5:09 PM
If it wasn't for the leaded solder and brass fittings it would probably make a very nice still ;).
randomray says: Apr 10, 2011. 12:19 PM
I don't know if I should say this , but ...... just use silver solder for your still . This is so small it would take a month for one shot glass anyway . Nice idea , I was was just looking for a reasonable way to power a small stm engine .
wakojako says: Apr 7, 2011. 12:00 PM
This is really clever but could you post a video by any chance?
Confounded Machine (author) says: Apr 7, 2011. 1:41 PM
I do have a video but must have imbedded it incorrectly...the link should be up now. :) Thanks!
wakojako says: Apr 10, 2011. 11:41 AM
Thanks
jelmer2209 says: Apr 7, 2011. 12:01 PM

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b5bx_mxtjgw
bpappin says: Apr 10, 2011. 10:49 AM
One suggestion.

You can reduce the amount of "flameout" and improve the efficiency by providing a wick of some sort that gives a more even evaporation of the fuel.

I'd try a piece of steel wool stuffed in the cup, but you can also use the wick material used in naphtha lamps.
drakers007 says: Apr 10, 2011. 9:41 AM
Winna-Winna-Chicken-Dinna !!! I like it a lot ~ Flames, Steam and alcohol ~ I was expecting the plastic tubes to melt but for a prototype excelent work.... Looks like your on the right track and a turbine that spins a wheel or pumps a piston must be on the agenda. Thanks for putting your work out for all of us to enjoy.
harry88 says: Apr 10, 2011. 9:09 AM
you should make all the tubing copper or the plastic might melt and if you do also add a pressure relief because with the copper it might not let the copper tubing pop off as easily as the plastic
Kinnishian says: Apr 10, 2011. 9:18 AM
*In fact, I think he uses silicon tubing not plastic
Kinnishian says: Apr 10, 2011. 9:17 AM
Silicon wouldn't melt, and silicon tubing is softer than copper. I think his method works well because plastic is unlikely the melt with steam.
MrRedBeard says: Apr 10, 2011. 6:45 AM
In the video.... Who did the remake of the Pixies song?
bpersun says: Apr 10, 2011. 7:53 AM
emily browning -wow- stars and sings several songs in the SuckerPunch soundtrack
FELON500 says: Apr 10, 2011. 7:25 AM
How much alcohol will this distil in an hour?
knolo14 says: Apr 9, 2011. 11:57 PM
Dam, I made it in about 5 hours but when i go and test it... 5 minutes later melted tube:(
techno guy says: Apr 8, 2011. 1:20 PM
What is the infuser? Is it necessary? What is the difference without it?
Mr.Stein says: Apr 9, 2011. 4:51 PM
The infuser is the heated aluminum container that lets a scented liquid vaporize and be carried into the air with the rising steam. It is not necessary and you could hook up a turbine or steam engine instead.
thegreat58 says: Apr 9, 2011. 3:48 PM
Couple of ideas, 1. you can get springs in various sizes especially for bending copper pipe, as with a flaring tool, insert the tubing inside and bend, no kinking. 2. if you used a short legnth of 1 1/2 copper or brass pipe for holding your fuel, with a cap soldered on one end and another cap with small holes drilled in it, similar to a gas burner, you could put the fuel in put on the drilled cap. light the vapor coming out of the holes, the result would be a more intense controlled flame, with less chance of accidently getting burned. Very cool instructable.
dalesql says: Apr 8, 2011. 8:25 PM
Bending copper tubing in the home for small projects like this. Fill the tubing with water and temporarily seal the ends with corks or putty or whatever. Stick the tubing in the freezer overnight. Bend the tubing around your form while the ice is still frozen. The ice in the bending sections will fracture and partially melt, the still intact ice at each end of the tube acts as a really good stopper keeping the pressure inside to keep the tube at full diameter.

That's how they bend things like french horns and trumpets out of tubing without them kinking.
Confounded Machine (author) says: Apr 9, 2011. 11:48 AM
Cool,

Thats 2 people that have recommended the ice method. Nice time I will try that. Thanks!

techno guy says: Apr 8, 2011. 1:43 PM
Is silicone tubing fire proof or something? Is airplane fuel line made of silicone?
Confounded Machine (author) says: Apr 9, 2011. 11:47 AM
Yes its the same tubing used for model airplane fuel line. I used the 2nd largest diameter (Large). Its not fire proof but it dose have a high heat resistance.

The infuser is just an interesting way to transfer heat into another medium (in this case a scented liquid). Its not needed to run the boiler...you could have just as easily place a small steam engine on the output.

techno guy says: Apr 8, 2011. 12:59 PM
I watched the video of the boiler and wouldn't the flames start to burn the tubing because it was just sitting in the flames?
venecha says: Apr 8, 2011. 9:29 AM
For shaping the copper tubing, maybe can try to cork one end, add water, cork the other end and freeze before shaping? I remember that on some of the How It's Made shows (I love those!) they use that method for shaping tubing for brass instruments. When you are done, you can remove the corks, let it melt and maybe use some air from an air compressor to blow out the extra water.
Confounded Machine (author) says: Apr 8, 2011. 11:03 AM
Hmm, interesting idea. I know we do some cold/hot tube bending here at work and use a really fine silt in place of sand...I like the ice idea assuming it wont rupture the pipe when freezing.

PS - I second the how its made, something very mesmerizing about watching all those automated tasks.

Thanks
lavothas says: Apr 7, 2011. 10:28 PM
Cool idea, but you should probably find a way to contain the flame from the alcohol because you're going to burn your house down with the flames going like that
Confounded Machine (author) says: Apr 8, 2011. 7:18 AM
Thanks, usually I run it off much tamer fuel which keeps the flames under the boiler but fashioning up a nice little brass flame guard would be a nice little addition for when I want more wow factor.
puzka says: Apr 7, 2011. 6:56 PM
Ha ha , love the video. maybe a tea light would have been a better option after all :-) Still worth 5 stars, though. Very nice instructable.
Confounded Machine (author) says: Apr 7, 2011. 8:59 PM
Hehe Thanks,
Just this evening I tried running the unit with 2 tea lights and it will just barley run with a 3/4 full boiler, the steam output is quite anemic tho. So far cheap drugstore rubbing alcohol burns the cleanest and has almost no flame outs...naphtha is absolutely insane and was to scary to run for any length of time.

puzka says: Apr 7, 2011. 9:44 PM
You could try the stuff they use in commercial bain maries (chafing dishes). It's a blue gel in a tin, you just take the lid off and light it. It gives a pretty stable flame.
chaosrob says: Apr 7, 2011. 3:10 PM
WAY kool. It's on my 'to-do' list.
Kaelessin says: Apr 7, 2011. 1:12 PM
I've been keeping my eyes peeled whenever i'm at the store hoping to see one of these that I actually like . . .problem solved! Great build.
Pro

Get More Out of Instructables

Already have an Account?

close

PDF Downloads
As a Pro member, you will gain access to download any Instructable in the PDF format. You also have the ability to customize your PDF download.

Upgrade to Pro today!