The unit was built entirely in my apartment with a hand drill and a rotary tool. I used a small soup can for the boiler and some various hardware store fittings to plumb the system. If your looking to make a little, attractive looking boiler to steampunk up your place read on!
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Note : The vinyl tubing picture DOES NOT work which I soon found out. Silicone is the way to go for the high heat resistance.
















































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without having to use some sort of pump?
I was browsing the internet for good steam projects and man, this one caught my eye. I'm afraid that I may not have any of the materials for this project in my current possession, so naturally being new to this, I wanted to know if you had an estimate to how much this project would cost all together. Where I live we have quite a few hardware stores and hobby shops, but I wanted an idea of how much cash I should have in my wallet before I go running around.
When I saw the steam coming out I thought of a superheated fuel reheating the boiler and the excess being used for a mantel lamp or stove, in other words put fuel in the boiler and use half to heat it, and the other half to cook or produce light.( never mind the fact that that defeats the purpose of driving a turbine.)
Come on isn't the idea of flaming fuel and metal shards blowing in all directions more exciting than just scalding water and shards?
This concept can be seen in the pop can stoves that heat their own fuel and burn quite well on alcohol.
Your soldering seems quite talented so why not but in a smoke stack up the middle and get rid of the wandering flames, maybe a peice of 1/2 copper.
Don't ya just love after the fact advise? Thanks for posting I love these types of projects.
I usually fill the can about half way and shut the unit down when its nearing the bottom of the slight "glass". Filling it more then half will just lead to a longer boil time...no damage is going to ensue if you fill er up, might just get some water coming thru the steam lines if you reach a rapid boil and possibly a smaller area for a good head of steam to build.
Thanks for the kind words :).
I have used a solder that is for 235 degreas Celcius, and I hope this is enough?
I haven´t tried the boiler at full capacity jet because I dont want to do this inhouse. I have used a "saftyvalue" that is orginaly used on Wilesco toy steam engines. I have built it with my multi-knife, and mini-burner when I had all the tools in the boat.. but it worked well. :)
A question - what was the wattage of the electrical soldering iron that you mention please?
I actually only used a butane torch for the soldering work on this boiler. The soldering station pictured in the background of the parts photograph is one I use for electronic work and its the weller WESD51.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Cool-Little-Miniature-Stove!/
would make for a more controlled heat source without too much complexity?
Thanks for sharing your great build with us all!
I dont see any reason why you couldn't use metal tubing for the whole setup. I just used the silicone tube to make the project a little more simple.
The tube will only pop off if the pressure exceeds 50psi which is WAY more then you'd need to run a small steam engine or turbine, during normal pressure (10-20psi) all tubes remain attached ;).
I completely agree with you on the can lining subject. During soldering I noticed some nasty fumes coming from the can into my fume extraction system, however during boiling the water inside keeps the can around 100C and I havent noticed any of the epoxy burning off.
Might be useful to work out a condensate return. hmmmm
For various burner and turbine plans check out the PM Shopnotes 1905-1930. Whistles too. wooohoooo.
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/879383-post18.html
Explanations of the files follows in post 19:
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/879408-post19.html
My commet about soldered tin cans is that a small amount of pressure is OK. How small is small? Other comment is that food cans usually have a plastic type of coating inside to seal them. Unknown what excessive heat may do to it.
If you can find it, "The Boys' Book Of Engines, Motors, And Turbines" by Alfred Morgan is intriguing and uses a paint can as the pressure vessel in one of the projects.
A mixture of 1/3 liquid hand soap to 2/3 water in the tube. Let it freeze solid, and then bend to your hearts delight. You may want to play around with the mixture of soap to water, as you want it to be frozen but not frozen solid like regular ice.
The soap lets the ice 'slip' a little bit in the tube so that when you bend it, it won't fracture and cause unsightly bumps where the ice broke into sharp edges. Plus, it melts cleanly and you can wash it out with regular tap water.
I am very happy to report that this works on tubes from 1/8th of an inch all the way up to 1/2 an inch. I can't bend any larger on my tube bender... So I only suspect it will work on larger diameters.
Please for your next one use some copper or brass for the boiler and add a safety valve. After all a can is not ment to take any pressure.
For a higher pressure more rugged unit I would look to an older article from a popular mechanics magazine called the "Hardware store steam boiler". Its built from gas pipe and also includes plans for a homebuilt pressure relief valve. Its a very nice strong unit which will stand up to years of work.
author - lets be honest, fire, steam, copper and brass win hands down.
YES.
Great idea.
David from cali
I hope to as well! I plan to CNC myself a small turbine wheel and couple it to an electric dynamo to generate power. What would really be fun would be to run it thru a 5volt regulator and turn it into a steam powered cell phone charger!
How about using a Tesla Turbine instead of a "regular" one? You can find some in here (Instructables) or over the Internet...
Best Regards
Dudaott
As for a true turbine, I was thinking of using an indexing head to have the mill cut one segment, then rotate to the next degree and run the program till you are completely around the part.
My Only niggle is the alcohol (?) open flames. I would have preferred a alcohol lamp, maybe a heat source from some crushed charcoal briquets or something of the like. Those open flames make me a bit jittery.
Otherwise a ver nice idea and very good execution.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b5bx_mxtjgw
You can reduce the amount of "flameout" and improve the efficiency by providing a wick of some sort that gives a more even evaporation of the fuel.
I'd try a piece of steel wool stuffed in the cup, but you can also use the wick material used in naphtha lamps.
That's how they bend things like french horns and trumpets out of tubing without them kinking.
Thats 2 people that have recommended the ice method. Nice time I will try that. Thanks!
The infuser is just an interesting way to transfer heat into another medium (in this case a scented liquid). Its not needed to run the boiler...you could have just as easily place a small steam engine on the output.
PS - I second the how its made, something very mesmerizing about watching all those automated tasks.
Thanks
Just this evening I tried running the unit with 2 tea lights and it will just barley run with a 3/4 full boiler, the steam output is quite anemic tho. So far cheap drugstore rubbing alcohol burns the cleanest and has almost no flame outs...naphtha is absolutely insane and was to scary to run for any length of time.