2. On to that is mounted the two uprights (10.25").
3. And in between is the cross brace (16.25")
4. Also mounted to the base is two pieces of 1.5" aluminum angle which two 24" full extension drawer slide are mounted to for the Y Axis.
7. The X axis gets mounted to the two uprights. It is adjustable the way we did it, so we can adjust for our dremel travel.
9. We made some 1" x 1" x .5" aluminum blocks for spacers for the Z axis.
10. Those are put on and it gets mounted to the slides on the X axis.
12. The X gets mounted to the same piece of aluminum that the X slide rails are mounted to. That way the motor moves up and down with it if it needs to be adjusted.
13. The Y axis is centered between the two drawer slide and screwed to the base.
14. The Z is mounted to the Z axis. you may need spacers to get the right distance for clearances.
16. You need to put one bearing on the end of each axis rod.
Again this is hit and miss, you need to measure you machine for sizes.
20. You need to screw the X axis coupler bracket to the Z axis so it can move back and forth. You need to drill and maybe counter bore your holes so you have clearance and check to make sure the screws are not in the way of the X axis rod.
21. The Z threaded rod is held onto the motor with the same tubing as the X. Thread the Z coupler bracket onto the Z threaded rod and mount that to the motor. The bearing is held in place with a few screws again. The bracket will be screwed to the slides along with your tool holder.
22. The same goes for the Y axis under the table top. Bearing is held with some self tapping screws.
Then the two drawer slides are screwed to those.
After you get the table ready, slide it in and make sure it slide back and forth OK. Next you screw the Y coupler bracket to the back edge of the table. And screw the bearings in place.
24. You should have the motors and all the brackets mounted. Next is hooking up the wires.
26. The instructions tell what color wire goes where and also what your pin numbers are for the parallel port.
28. Mach 3 is used to load the G-Code into and run the machine. Mach 3 is free, but you can only run so many lines of code.
29. You need to calibrate to machine. Each one will be different, depending on your motors degree per step, and size and number of threads on the rod. I put screen shots of all the settings I used in Mach 3.
30. You can add limit switches and home switches if you want them. I would recommend an E-STOP button on the machine just in case.
31. After it is calibrated, you draw something up, save it to the right file format, and load it into your g-code and tool path generator. That was Visual Mill or Lazy Cam for me.
32. Those programs will generate the G-Code. It will be a .tap or .nc file.
33. Load the G-Code into Mach 3 and do a dry run first. After you are sure it is ready try a test piece.
35. After a little trial and error, you will get it.
There is a picture of a scorpion the CNC routed out with red LED's to light it up!!!