The detachable projector wall mount is a DIY solution for hiding your home theater projector when you are not using it. I made this because I have a narrow living room and wanted to mount my projector as far away from the screen as possible, which meant mounting it to the opposite wall. However, I did not want to have an ugly projector permanently mounted to the wall behind my couch. This solution allowed me to both mount it to the wall and not have to always look at it.

This simple system allows you to install and remove the projector mount in a matter of seconds. All you need to do to attach it is to slide the attachment plate onto two relatively unnoticeable bolts that are anchored securely to a wall stud. To remove it, just do the opposite. Also, because of the limited amount of hardware required, all of the components can be easily stashed away until movie time comes again.

Step 1: Go Get Stuff

You will need:

(x1) Aluminum Slip-on Rail Fitting, Offset Side-Mount Flange, Fits 1 Pipe Size
(x1) Aluminum Slip-on Rail Fitting, Flange, 3" Base Diameter, Fits 1 Pipe Size
(x1) Aluminum Pipe for Rail Systems, 1 Pipe Size, 6" Long
(x2) Shoulder Bolts, 5/16" Diameter X 1" Long Shoulder, 1/4"-20 Thread
(x2) 1/4-20 internal thread X 1/2" long threaded insert
(x2) 1/2-13 x 3/4" button head bolt
(x4) M5 x 1/2" flat head bolt
(x1) M12 x 1" bolt (or similar)
(x1) M12 nut
(x1) 18" x 18" x 1/8" 6061 Aluminum (or material of choice)
(x1) 6" x 6" x 3/8" 6061 Aluminum (or material of choice)
(x1) 2" x 36" Velcro Cinch Strap

Step 2: Cut the Brackets

Cut out the aluminum brackets using the attached template files.

WallPlate.eps should be cut out of 3/8" thick aluminum and ProjectorPlate.eps should be cut out of 1/8" thick aluminum.

To accomplish this I used a water jet. If like most people you don't have access to a water jet, you can use a host of traditional fabrication techniques to get the job done. With a little patience, you could even feasibly cut out these templates with a power drill, hand saw and/or Dremel.

This is not insurmountable. For more info check out the digital fabrication by hand Instructable.

Even though I used aluminum, you could also feasibly use plywood, polycarbonate, or a thick acrylic if you find that easier to work with.

Step 3: Attach

Pass an M12 bolt through the center hole of the slip-on base plate and the 0.4725" (12mm) hole in the projector plate.

Use a nut to fasten the two firmly together so they can't slip.

Step 4: Drill

Use the four holes around the perimeter of the 0.4725" (12mm) hole as guides for drilling four 0.166" holes with a #19 drill bit through the slip-on base plate.

Step 5: Tap the Holes

Thread the four holes drilled in the slip-on base plate with an M5 tap.

Step 6: Tap Some More Holes

Thread the two holes in the wall attachment plate with a 1/2-13 tap.

Step 7: Countersink

Countersink the four 0.166" holes in the projector plate such that a flat head bolt is flush with the top of the plate when inserted.

Step 8: Sand and Polish

Sand the projector plate using 220 grit sandpaper, and then incrementally increase up to 1000 grit.

Once done, polish to a nice shine using a buffing wheel.

Step 9: Bolt

Bolt the projector plate to the slip-on flange using M5 flat head bolts.

Step 10: Strap

Pass the velcro straps through the two channel slots to create a loop for holding the projector.

Step 11: Sand and Polish

Like the projector plate, sand the wall attachment plate using 220 grit sandpaper, and then incrementally increase up to 1000 grit.

Polish to a nice shine using a buffing wheel.

Step 12: Attach

Attach the slip on flange fitting firmly to the wall attachment plate with 1/2-13 bolts.

Step 13: Find the Stud and Mark

Before finding the wall stud, I needed to figure out the proper height of the projector. To do this I turned the projector on, and held it up until I found the height that best frames the image on the screen.

Next, to find the wall stud where I mounted the posts for the sliding plate, I first marked it by placing magnets on the hidden nail heads. By doing this and carefully knocking on the wall, I was able to approximate where the center of the beam was.

I then used the sliding plate to trace the position of the mounting holes.

Step 14: Drill

Use a 3/8" spade bit to drill the two markings in the wall through the drywall and deep into the wooden beam.

Step 15: Anchors

Thread the 1" shoulder bolts into the threaded inserts.

Using the pilot holes, sink these assemblies firmly into the wall stud until the base of the bolt head is protruding 3/8" out of the wall.