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Step 13Modifications and Other Information
-Due to availability of certain chemicals, you may wish to recalculate developing times. You will need to do this if you use a film or chemicals that are different from mine, or you develop in an enviroment that is greater than 4 degrees F different from the standard 68 degrees F. The website that I like to use has most all types of films and chemicals, and even handles process C-41 (color.)
-You may wish to omit using a stop bath. Instead, rinse the film for about one minute in between the developer and the fixer.
-The alternative is to use something called an alkaline fixer, such as TF4, which does not require a stop bath; only a rinse in between the developer and fixer.
-Some advocate the use of a hardening fixer. I see this as a waste, personally. If you elect to use a hardening fixer, do so after you've processed several rolls without the hardener component. If you use a hardening fixer, I strongly recommend using a hypo-clear rinsing agent as well.
-36 exposure film is more difficult to load than 24 exposure film due to the longer length.
-Black and white film is difficult to find at a drug store or grocery store. You'll probably have to order it, along with your chemicals, online. Be sure to check if the company will ship chemicals (B&H will not.) Order several rolls so you don't get stiffed on shipping one roll of film. Even if you decide that processing the film yourself isn't for you, you can still take it to a photo lab and have it processed like normal people do.
-Remeber to experiment with different types and styles of photographs. You don't have much to loose; film and chemicals are cheap.
-You may wish to omit using a stop bath. Instead, rinse the film for about one minute in between the developer and the fixer.
-The alternative is to use something called an alkaline fixer, such as TF4, which does not require a stop bath; only a rinse in between the developer and fixer.
-Some advocate the use of a hardening fixer. I see this as a waste, personally. If you elect to use a hardening fixer, do so after you've processed several rolls without the hardener component. If you use a hardening fixer, I strongly recommend using a hypo-clear rinsing agent as well.
-36 exposure film is more difficult to load than 24 exposure film due to the longer length.
-Black and white film is difficult to find at a drug store or grocery store. You'll probably have to order it, along with your chemicals, online. Be sure to check if the company will ship chemicals (B&H will not.) Order several rolls so you don't get stiffed on shipping one roll of film. Even if you decide that processing the film yourself isn't for you, you can still take it to a photo lab and have it processed like normal people do.
-Remeber to experiment with different types and styles of photographs. You don't have much to loose; film and chemicals are cheap.
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Jul 16, 2008. 12:12 PMchristydeering
says:
oo, this is my favorite site for film developing info!
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