Here is a gun cabinet packing some extra pop!!!
Planning: The idea was to shine single high-power LEDs down through each section of the cabinet too highlight the collection of guns! For aesthetics, a hole saw was used so that only the LED lens can be seen from inside the cabinet; the heatsink and power supply are hidden on top. Also, included on top of the cabinet is a turn knob for dimming - the LEDs are so bright that I personally prefer them run around half power.
Materials: The main components of this project were LEDs, optics, heatsinks, an LED driver and switching power supply. All the items were purchased for less than $100 from LEDSupply.com. Some of the product images i took right from their site and also I tried to link to each item page as well.
- The LEDs are made by Cree, but mounted to a metal core star board so that they can be connected easier. Cree has a bunch of different LEDs, I went with their XLamp XT-E in a warm-white color temperature.
- Optics were iffy; I got them because they are cheap and I wasn't sure if the light without them would reach the bottom of the cabinet. The LEDs are specified with a 120-degree viewing angle and it turned out I liked the light best with a medium angle lens.
- Heatsinks at the current I ran the LEDs aren't completely necessary, but definitely recommended and it made it easier to mount the LEDs anyway.
- The LED driver is made in the usa by LUXdrive and is called a BuckPuck. I picked the one with wires, dimming and a potentiometer. The output is 350mA, which is the lowest option available, but like I mentioned earlier was plenty bright. All seven of the LEDs are run in-series with a 24Vdc input to the BuckPuck. Each LED runs at approximately 1-watt (2.85Vf per LED X .350amps = .9975 Watts).
- A 24Vdc switching power supply is required to convert the 110Vdc to low voltage DC. I used a basic enclosed style power-supply (like you would see used with a laptop computer).
- Connectors & wire. To make the connection from the power-supply to the LED driver easier I used a screw-in terminal plug and for connections to the LEDs I used 24 gauge stranded wire.
- 3/4" Hole Saw & Drill
- Arctic Silver Epoxy
- Solder Iron & Solder
- Wire 24 Gauge Stranded Wire
Step 1: Product Images & Links
The previous step I outlined the parts and components used, but here I copied over the product images for further clarification and used links for those that want to purchase the same items. The next step shows the set-up completed.
Step 2: How to Build It
Measure twice cut once!
I started by marking the LED locations on the cabinet and then measured the distance in between each LED; this gave me the length of wire I needed in between each LED.
- First I soldered wires between the LEDs (series connection positive to negative)
- Epoxy LEDs to heatsink and Optic Holder to MCPCB
- Drill Holes in cabinet
- Place LEDs down into each location
- Connect series circuit to driver output wires
- Connect Driver Input wires to screw-in terminal
- Plug in power supply
- Plug power supply output into screw-in terminal